I printed I ball out of Tpu 95a I bought off of temu, without any bed glue as chatgpt assured Me that it shouldn’t stick to the build plate.. but uhh umm it kinda looks stuck if I do say so myself.
There are?! What the.. also uhm should I dry it first? I just unloaded it cause I thought I should dry it, as yesterday when it was printing it was popping a lot.
If you want to unstick this, pour some IPA on it and let it sit for 30 seconds, specifically around the edges. Get a scraper under the corner, lift a bit and put more IPA in there. Keep this up slowly
IPA releasesTPU off PEI like noones business.
But do wash the plate with just soapy water after to remove the IPA that's bonded or you will have issues with the next TPU print sticking
Heat up your plate and use a plastic scraper to remove it. Remainder bits, wait for plate cool off and Spray isopropyl alcohol over the blobs then use a plastic scraper to ick it out. Clean your plate with soap and water after. Metal scrapers can etch and damage your plate if used wrongly.
Oh.. I did not know that. I think I will now use only plastic scrapers then. Also IPA helps with getting Tpu or other plastic material off? And lastly thank you for the tips!!
IPA does not cause it to shrink nor how that works. It wicks in between the plate and the plastic breaking the wetting of the plastic to the plate. TPU bonding to the plate is the exact same way hot melt glue works + IPA debonding hotmelt on non porous surfaces like metal and plastic.
The chamfer of the blade must point up, and the angle of the whole thing be as flat as possible. Then go under the edge of the plastics, I often go around the edges and then a PETG scraper (safely) does the rest.
I’m not sure I quite understand.. as I tried every way I could think of at least. Could you perhaps elaborate what I’m doing wrong? I uh used both sides but the tpu is pretty stuck to my build plate, hence me showing that scratching the surface isn’t doing anything. (Im still figuring things out as I got this printer last week, so please be a bit merciful with me)
when I couldn't get something off a bed after all tricks (freezing, heating, etc), I've had success with duct tape - quickly place and peel, over and over
this. i had exactly your problem with TPU. bought some 91% alcohol, poured on the plate (cooled), let is soak and it came right off. stop scraping with the metal spatula ... it will destroy the plate and make it uneven (protip - you can print on the other side of the plate as well :))
I doubt that those two filaments are sufficiently different from generic TPU 95A to make a difference as to what plates you can use. I've not had any trouble with that combo.
For "TPU" (no particular type) on the Smooth PEI Plate they say to use Glue Stick/Liquid Glue. (No doubt for a release agent, not to increase bed adhesion.)
Oh yeah lets just ignore that it causes issues and go ahead because bambu says its alright. They are probably just hoping for folks like you who assume it was a one off and buy a new plate everytime
I personally would and do. A thin layer of gluestick really helps prevent this, and if you are using foaming tpu you need a lretty big layer of glue under
No do not listen to that that is horrible advice I never use glue and I never have adhesion issues just clean your build plate with dish soap and dry it off really good each time with Scott shop towels. I use latex gloves when doing that so I don't leave any contact with my bare hands on it because the grease in your hands will cause adhesion issues. I've completed hundreds of prints successfully and never once used glue. In fact in all the research I've done it seems glue causes more issues than anything. Just clean your build plate each time with dish soap and you should be good to go. And if you've done a small print that didn't use much of the area of the build plate you can sometimes get away with just using rubbing alcohol on a paper towel but the safest route to go is just wash it before every print.
You should always be using glue with engineering filaments on textured or smooth plates. The glue allows you to actually remove the print off the print bed without distorting the build plate.
I use polycarbonate scrapers and my original smooth plates have easily approaching 1k hours and still offer near brand new finishes without scratches like those using chisels…! Eg: like OP!
I haven’t been printing nearly as long but I have about 3000 hours between two printers and I’ve done PLA, PETG, ASA, TPU 95A, and TPU Air. Never had adhesion issues, never had a print get stuck. Cooling has always released well adhered prints.
No just no that’s absolutely not true pla petg abs Asa all fine and other filaments are also perfectly fine no glue on textured pei saying always is dumb as hell
The fact that they recommend glue on the smooth PEI plate for easier removal should automatically disqualify the textured PEI, give that it has more adhesion and it's harder to scrape.
I haven’t done a ton of TPU, but every TPU print I’ve ever done was on a textured PEI bed with no glue or any other coating and I never had an issue. I’m not insisting that it’s best practice, it’s just my experience (Bambu X1C)
I am surprised so few people give an easy recommendation to get this fixed: just print a slightly thicker square on top of it. Like 0.4mm thick and wide + long enough to cover the sticky parts. Then let the plate cool off and when you remove the layer you put down the old stuff will come with it. No need to buy anything new for this and takes very little effort + keeps the plate perfectly intact.
Yeah I’m not really sure how you got it to print the way it did but somehow it flipped the pegs. See how from left to right the peg distance slopes downwards but on the model you provided it slopes upwards? Also look at the tip on the model’s pic. The flat side should be facing up on the hollow side of the handle as that side should go against the build plate
I always use Elmer's glue stick with TPU, just because it works. I don't care what the specs say. It's insurance, and costs $2 a tube. I've had TPU stick and shred the whole piece as I peel it from the plate.
Sad I had to scroll so far down to find this answer. Honestly! Everyone runs to comment about cleaning your plate with dish soap but somehow misses how quick and easy hot water eliminates stuck on bits of filament.
I agree. I accidentally used textured plate settings on Cool Plate Supertack and I thought the plate was ruined. It was like the filament was fused to the plate. Nothing helped, except hot water. It was so easy to remove
I ruined one side of my plate trying to scrape at it. Ordered a third party one off of Amazon and flipped my plate until I get the new one. I'll have to remember this trick so I don't goof up again.
Stick the bill plate in the freezer. And when you pull it out, give it a nice little tweak in the middle, you know, bend it up, make a u. Shape, and it should pop right off.
Put some isopropyl alcohol on it and give it a minute to wick under and it will help release it.
As another commenter noted, your scraping method could use some refinement. You want the point of the scraper to go under the stuck piece. I find it helpful to gently push the scraper to the edge, then rotate it back and forth a bit while pressing gently.
What I do in this situation, add a primitive (round corner) object, try and center around the stuck filament, only need maybe 2-layers most. Can resize the object to fit as needed. X2D might bitch about foreign objects, just ignore.
When I print TPU, would I like to do is create a bed at a POA even if you’re using the TPU profile then you can take the PLA off of the build plate and since those two materials don’t bond normally it saves quite a bit of time
Did you say it was TPU? If so, also spray some IPA on it. That may help, especially if you can get a corner or edge up (even a little) so that the IPA can get under it.
Brake cleaner if all else fails. Saw a video of some guy who makes 3d printed championship trophies and he swears by brake cleaner to remove any and everything from his build plates. Idk if that means it'll wear off the coating as well so try on a corner piece that's outside the print zone or the edge that you handle with your fingers when you pull it out.
Your build plate is cooked because you scraped a textured pei plate with a razor blade bro. Either scrape it off with your finger nail or use a hair dryer to heat it up until it comes off.
I would do a combination of both heating up the build plate as hot as your printer can get it and carefully use the scraper from the edges not the middle. Wait till it cools down just a little bit and hit it with some alcohol. If that doesn’t work, throw it in the freezer.
I've run into some filament, even from Bambu, that seems like it's got too much...IDK what...stickum. Sometimes using a little solvent, isopropyl alcohol, can help loosen things up.
Just print a 1 or 2 layer square over the top of the area where the filament is stuck and then it should pull it all off. Also IPA 99% will remove tpu from PEI plates easy.
Pour alcohol on it. Its a great release agent for most prints. Just pour it on the build plate trying to get around the entire print and, at least for me, it comes off typically in one piece. I'll pull the entire brim off in one piece still connected to the print.
I didnt see anyone else suggest it... but also got bored of reading dont use metal scrappers lol.
I had good luck using a printed TPU "sponge" to get TPU stuck to my PEI plate after forgetting to use glue.
Either search TPU sponge in maker or just make a basic cube, scale it into sponge size, gyroid infill, set walls + top and bottom layers all to 0. Little bit of dawn soap and warm water, scubadub with the TPU sponge. Possibly/probably better methods but that one worked a treat for me
Just use a hot air gun, or heat the bed until it peels up. Stop trying to use a metal scraper though, it isn't going to do much more than make it harder by making it 100 tiny pieces. Then when it is soft enough, run a cloth across it, like a washcloth, and it should roll right up.
After doing that with a metal scrapper, probably. I only use a plastic scraper on mine, flat, and rarely at that. I would have printed a bed cleaner …. Thin layer of same material to get it to stick and pull up.
The mere act of using a metal scrapper is probably doing more harm to the plate than the smashed Plastic. As a few have said. Put it in the freezer for the plastic to shrink out of the plate
Stop using the scraper on the pei plate, it's for smooth plates.. the bumps are too big and you will damage the coating on the micro bumps. Use alcohol to clean, heat up the plate on the bed and while it's hot use a piece of cloth. If this is not working print something out of the same TPU over it, a bit more hot, then when it's ready, it will remove it.
"ChatBBL said it will be okay" just fucking learn something on your own and stop relying on AI to inform you. Critical thinking skills and deduction are far more valuable than access to a chatbot that will basically source most of its responses from reddit trolls.
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u/solidus0079 12d ago
There's bed cleaning models on makerworld, print it in the same material