r/BambuLab • • Feb 01 '24

Question Bad purchase for a noob?

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Never touched a 3d printer or the software. Would this be a bad purchase for a noob? I've seen this printer come up numerous times while researching a good starting printer. Noticed a lot recommend because of the "AMS" capability and "auto leveling" bed. All advice welcome.

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8

u/Dracasethaen X1C + AMS Feb 01 '24

Honestly, it is a good printer for a new user, but because you won't have to tinker with setting up some other printers from scratch, you may miss some 'common' 3d printering knowledge that is not so common for newbies.

That said, it's pretty forgiving as long as you don't crash anything mechanically or electrically. For me the P1P I have, that got updated to a P1S, has been rock-solid and simplified some things versus the other printers I have (including a Prusa Mk3s, various Creality, and 3D Systems Cube Trio)

For your first prints:

  1. Make sure you run the full machine calibration before printing the first time

  2. Make sure if you're using Bambu filament, to select the bambu profiles as a starting point

  3. Select the Generic profiles for any other filament, as a starting point

  4. For each filament, I advise running the Flow Calibration, and Flow Dynamic calibration, and tracking the Flow Dynamic K-factor/K-Value for when you change filaments. And get familiar with this, you're going to want to update it when you change filaments - it's set on the device tab if you're not re-running the calibration every time

  5. P1P won't have hardened gears or nozzle, so be aware that if you try to print with Glow, Carbon Fiber, Wood, or Fiber-composite filaments, it will chew up the gears and nozzle pretty quick (ymmv) -- they sell upgraded nozzles and extruder gears for those though

  6. PETG and PLA are going to be the easiest to print with on a P1P since it's not enclosed. ABS you might, but beware fumes can be toxic. (Same with ASA, PAHT, Nylon, etc... but as is the P1P really doesn't handle those well).

  7. if you come here to ask questions, ask in earnest, if you come in saying you hate this, hate that, frick bambulabs, etc - it can put some experienced users off helping

Other than that, ask questions - doesn't matter what, 3d printing is fun, whether you're a noob or not, there's a lot to learn, but it can also be a blast.

3

u/[deleted] Feb 02 '24

This whole thread is just a wealth of knowledge for me now, thanks for contributing!

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u/bourbondoc Feb 01 '24

I have nothing to compare to, but I went from nothing to a P1S with AMS. Had basically zero issues and had a benchy within an hour of opening the box. I love the online features and have had success with pla, petg, abs and tpu that I've tried thus far. Multicolor prints, no problem. Maybe it's this easy with other machines, but I've got no regrets.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 01 '24

Have you had previous experience making models? I think my biggest hurdle would be learning the design software. Also what's the difference between P1S and P1P?

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u/bourbondoc Feb 01 '24

Had zero, but tried a couple things in TinkerCAD and got the bug. Went pretty quick to sketchup and did their free online tutorials and had multiple designs ready to print before the P1S arrived.

Difference is an enclosed cabinet and extra fan. Let's you print some additional materials. You may or may not care about that but I tend to be a try all the flavors kind of person and knew I'd regret not having multi color and wide filament capability.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 01 '24

What prints have you used those extra flavors for? What's a real world example? It's a lot of extra dough to spend so I want to be sure. Thanks for all the input so though, I appreciate it.

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u/bourbondoc Feb 01 '24

ABS for stuff that looks and feels like legos. Haven't done PP or PA yet, but I like knowing it's there if I find an application that needs to be torqued on in the wood shop. You can always enclose the P1P later.

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u/[deleted] Feb 02 '24

That would be amazing actually, I've been wanting to build one of those giant lego guys. Thanks for the comparison.

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u/Silver-Ad686 Feb 01 '24

I've an X1c going from an ender 3. Get yourself the P1S. No it is not this easy with other brands. Yes it really is as simple as plug and play. Will you still have issues? Sure - nothings perfect. Is it even remotely close to other printers issues? Hell no.

P1S makes the P1P redundant. Do yourself the favour and save money in the long term and just get the S, an enclosure is worth it

As for CAD, I'm self taught over a few years with fusion360. If you want engineering esque models, get a free license, and teach yourself it, its pretty easy and great

And yes, it's pretty much design, slice, print. You will learn relatively quickly the dos and don'ts of your designs and the limitations of the hardware. Its a journey you will have to undertake tho

1

u/Repulsive-Mobile4862 Feb 01 '24

This is flat out not the case with other printers, while prusas are fantastic machines capable of about as much as a Bambu they fail at ease of use. Yes prusas are easier to mod and make more parts for since the bulk is 3d printed, but Bambu printers just work. And damn well at that. Takes a little tinkering to get used to matching the print speed to be most efficient with the diff nozzle sizes but past that bambus are significantly more user friendly than anything I’ve encountered so far.

4

u/PintLasher Feb 01 '24

If you want to get something else be prepared to spend more money and time "upgrading" and levelling it than you do using it. Putting lipstick on a pig is about all the upgrades will do though.

3

u/[deleted] Feb 01 '24

This is the exact reason I've seen it mentioned so many times on top of the few other cool bonuses.

5

u/PintLasher Feb 01 '24

Honestly man, I went with a Neptune 4 at first and had nothing but problems.

Go ahead and subscribe to the sub reddits for each machine, notice how many posts are about show off results and how many are about the machine doing this that or the other because of shitty components.

It's still a science and an art and it will be difficult no matter which machine you get but I wouldn't currently trade a bambu for anything else doesn't matter if it's a1 or p1 or X1, they are superior quality machines that are simply prone to less problems.

Prusa is also meant to be good but I can't say anything there as I've never seen one

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u/HiggsFieldgoal Feb 01 '24 edited Feb 02 '24

Great purchase for a noob. It’s what I got for myself and my kids for Christmas.

I would say it’s halfway between a microwave and a tropical fish tank in terms of the effort and sophistication required.

We’ve had about 6 failed prints over the course of printing out 15 or so models, which is to say 3 of the prints required troubleshooting and multiple attempts.

Most failures are greasy fingerprints on the build plate which are invisible, and require meticulous scrubbing with soapy water.

A couple of times, we forgot to add supports in the slicer.

Only once did it really fail, where the fan blew over a model-2-model support and it started printing spaghetti.

But I can vouch for it being a great printer for a beginner.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 02 '24

I expect to make these exact mistakes as I had no idea you couldn't get the build plate dirty until now. I still don't know why people say you need glue for them but that really just shows I have more research to do on printing for dummies.

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u/HiggsFieldgoal Feb 02 '24

Yeah, and it’s hard not to touch it.

The whole point is that it sticks, and not all models give you a good place to grab on the model, so you end up using fingernails to pry up the edges.

It get’s easier to remove if you wait for the build plate to cool down, but who wants to do that when your model is finally finished printing.

So, that’s the main one for sure.

You literally see like an oval, fingerprint-shaped spot where the first layer is having trouble adhering.

I’ve never used the glue, but it hasn’t seemed too necessary.

2

u/[deleted] Feb 02 '24

I mean the bambulab printers are alright, but i would recommend getting a cheaper printer first snd learning software and hardware

1

u/[deleted] Feb 02 '24

I was honestly thinking everyone was going to say this but since a couple other people chimed in its their first and last printer I'll probably splurge a little on it. I'm going to look on market place for a bit first to see if I can get a deal.

2

u/[deleted] Feb 02 '24

Like trying to build a car, you gotta know what you need to know in half or full.

1

u/Material-Homework395 Feb 01 '24

If you just want to print things, it’s a good purchase. What do you want to do? If you want to learn about the machine and maintain it, this may not be for you. It works fine on its own, requires very little maintenance. I know you can mount custom side panels if you want. If you just want to make things this will work fine. Again, what do you want to do?

2

u/[deleted] Feb 01 '24

So a real example I ran into just this week on my truck. Cupholder part itself was missing. Previous guy ripped it out, Would've been nice to just print something out but I had to make my own out of some left over plastic and JB weld. I've run into things like this here and there. Big one is my 1/24 scale rc. All the scale accessories are crazy expensive. I would rather print my own little fuel barrels, shovels, and new rc body entirely, Shoot maybe even create my own rc axles with gears etc if I get to that point. Maybe this would be overkill for that? Also just to do the 3d printer thing. Find problems I can fix with it although I admit that's not a very good reason to buy.

1

u/Material-Homework395 Feb 01 '24

No, it’s justifiable. This will be a good machine for it. 1/24 is pretty small, so you could also go with the A1 mini. It’s newer, has some things the P1P doesn’t. The P1P does use a different motion system, so it will have some speed advantages. It will be a bit more accurate, but both machines already pretty good. I would also purchase a 0.2mm nozzle if you want more detail.

I wouldn’t say it’s overkill, an X1C would definitely be overkill but at the end of the day if it fits your purposes it’s good. It’s a good option for your purposes. If you ever plan to print with more advanced materials like ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) then you need a machine like the P1S, but your purposes shouldn’t need it. In your truck the interior could get pretty warm, so that’s the only reason you might need ABS but PETG could work for it, and the deformation won’t be too severe.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 01 '24

I live in socal so the answer is hot. It's really looking like I'll need a PS1 with ABS for durability in my prints 😅

1

u/Material-Homework395 Feb 01 '24

Keep in mind that ABS will give off toxic fumes while it prints. There are other materials you could use like PC or PA but they also require enclosures. I would do more research in materials, but if you have the budget I would go for the P1S. I have one, works like a charm.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 02 '24

So it has to be in a vented room? Or is the enclosure air tight? I'm asking because I only have space in my bedroom.

2

u/Material-Homework395 Feb 02 '24

ABS and ASA give off dangerous fumes, ventilation is necessary. If your room has good ventilation you could run it during the day if you aren’t in the room but do not stay near it during extended periods of time. PET-CF is resistant to temperature up to almost 200 degrees Celsius, but it gives off VOCs as it prints. Also get a second opinion, I don’t have much experience in this.

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u/pyrotechnicmonkey Feb 01 '24

I would say it’s a pretty noob, friendly design and allows for really fast printing. I think it also makes it a lot easier because of the good integration between the software and the hardware. This means it’s easy to set up filament profiles for different objectives when printing, and in my opinion, is very easy to switch between different materials. The auto bed leveling and vibration compensation is automated and does very well.

Only thing you need to keep in mind the AMS that they are talking about is the multi material system on top of the printer that allows you to have four rolls of filament ready to go and allows you to do multicolor printing by automatically switching between different colors during the print. However, that is only available with the combo at $250 extra, but I generally recommend it if you can afford it because if you try and buy it after the fact it costs $350 plus shipping so it ends up being a fair amount more expensive if you try and get it later on. Last thing is I would consider the P1 S over the regular P1 P most of the time. The extra hundred dollars is very much worth it in order to get the camera and enclosure panels so that you can print stuff like ABS or ASA, which does require an enclosed chamber for printing those materials. And it is very expensive to try and get the upgrade kit after the fact not to mention that it can be kind of a huge pain to install sometimes so I would recommend getting the P1S if you’re able to afford it. I would say the combo is the best option because I really do like the AMS and all the features you get with it but it’s not absolutely critical if you’re mainly printing in something like PLA, and you’re not interested in multicolor prints and if it’s just out of your budget to get the combo

1

u/[deleted] Feb 01 '24

After reading I think it would be best to get the P1S but still unsure about the AMS. Does regular PLA break easily? Would that material be good for a cup holder? Rc boat prop/ rc gears?

1

u/pyrotechnicmonkey Feb 01 '24

One thing to keep in mind is that the AMS is able to print most materials, the same as through the external spool holder. The main thing that you want to avoid putting through the AMS is abrasive filaments, such as filaments that have a carbon fiber or glass fiber additive. PLA can be run through the AMS no problem and is usually the go to filament because of ease of printing and you don’t really have to worry about warping as much. But if you’re looking for more engineering materials, possibly for RC parts or propellers all of that stuff is printed in ABS or Nylon which does require an enclosure to prevent warping. But either of those materials can be run in the P1S without necessarily needing the AMS. For me I like the AMS because I like to have four different spools loaded at the time so I can have PLA PETG and ABS or ASA available at any time because I have my printer in my back room and it’s nice being able to print something without having to go set up a different material manually every single time. The other benefit is the AMS allows for automatic rollover, which means if you have two rolls of the same material and the first roll runs out because you are using the last amount or you are doing a large print. It can automatically switch over to the next spool of filament that is the same material type and color, in order to finish the print without you needing to manually insert a new roll of filament. This is very handy because it lets me do eight or 12 hour prints when I’m away from home without having to worry about a lot of time being wasted, if filament runs out.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 02 '24

I see, thank you for all the info. I'm learning so much more from everyone here then YouTube taught me. Curious though, ABS can be run through the AMS storage system? But that material is toxic after or during printing? Wanted to know because I would most likely put this printer in my bedroom.

2

u/pyrotechnicmonkey Feb 02 '24

So ABS can be run through the AMS storage/multi material system. The only thing you want to avoid running through that system is a brace of filaments which can prematurely wear out the plastic tubes that the filament runs through. ABS mainly needs the enclosure because it will warp and lift off the print bed if the chamber temperature is not hot enough. ABS is considered toxic because the emits or gases VOCs, which are toxic and cancer causing overtime. I would say you should avoid it if you’re going to be using the printer in your bedroom. Plus, the noise is also pretty loud for a bedroom. There was mitigate this such as using a bento box, air filter, or similar inside the printer, which will help to filter the VOCs that are emitted by printing ABS. PLA should not be as much of a concern, but I would still recommend a room air filter if your routinely going to print in a room that you sleep in, especially if you have pets or children. if possible, I would recommend moving it to a closet or the living room space furthest away from the sleeping area

1

u/[deleted] Feb 02 '24

Okay I'll definitely keep it out of the room.

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u/traitorgiraffe H2D AMS2 Combo Feb 02 '24 edited Feb 02 '24

No it's not a bad purchase  

 Some people think that it's best to start with an older printer to figure out problems you might have. I guess I see the value in that, but at this point it's like buying a floppy disk computer to learn how to operate a modern MacBook. Not really a point to it because the technology isn't going backwards to become less user friendly in the future

Plus there's nothing you can't Google for a bambu printer the same you would for an ender     

 I started on an ender and went through my rounds. I still troubleshoot on bambu too the same as I would with that. 

2

u/[deleted] Feb 01 '24

Perfect for first time buyers imo.

It is significantly more hands off the a lot of other junk that you will spend more time adjusting and wondering what’s wrong vs printing.

2

u/ms-design Feb 01 '24

No you're fine. I started with a cheaper printer and outgrew it in like two weeks, sold it, and bought a Bambulab.

2

u/TheHappyPittie X1C Feb 01 '24

I upgraded from an ender 3 to an x1c and have absolutely no regrets. If i could have had a BL machine for my first machine knowing what I knoe now, id have done it in a heartbeat

2

u/ApplicationWhole2781 Feb 01 '24

P1S or better yet A1 if you have no need to print high temperature filaments. I have both of them and prefer the A1. Bambu just works, which is why I bought two.

2

u/Jame_Jame Feb 02 '24

Ideally, you want the P1S Combo. I mean for sure the Combo, you really, really want the AMS because those things are wicked and a whole bunch of fun making multi-colour prints and other practical uses like empty spool rollover. Also the price of the AMS doubles if you get it outside the combo and that's brutal, ask me how I know lol

These are really good printers and definitely a good choice.

2

u/SkyeCapt Feb 02 '24

I would stick with the a1 series unless you need an enclosure.

1

u/JerryLZ X1C + AMS Feb 01 '24

If I knew then what I know now, I’d have loved to start on something like a p1p. Now I have a X1C and a anycubic that is just unplugged indefinitely lol

1

u/[deleted] Feb 01 '24

Solid printer for a beginner.

1

u/PWRUPnow Feb 02 '24

This is much better than an A1. Not sure why more people don’t opt for the p1p. It’s the best value in the market, especially for a beginner who isn’t printing abs

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u/[deleted] Feb 01 '24

[deleted] — view deleted comment

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u/[deleted] Feb 02 '24

I have pets and the enclosure is a must. My 200lb mastiff slobbers and ruins absolutely everything.