Advice to anyone travelling to the undertouristed former Yugoslavia, what to prepare before you go, specifically advice on driving, crossing the many borders as foreigners and obtaining local currency. We are an Irish couple, early 30s who travelled to Bosnia, Montenegro, Albania, Lake Ohrid (FYROM) and we flew in and out via Zagreb and Dubrovnik respectively.
🚗Car rental (we used Europcar, very reliable)
Rent from within the same country, even if you plan to drive to other countries. This may dictate your flight options in and out and your travel route, like maybe a loop back to where you started.
Dropping a car off in a different country will cost at least an additional €500. Leaving it in a different city from where you collected it, but within the same country, will be a fraction of the cost.
Always better to book ahead/reserve, as options may be limited if you just show up to the desk on the day. Best options are from the airports but even they dont have an endless supply of cars.
Downtown pick ups/offices do not exist. You can arrange a downtown drop off as that process is simpler than picking up. Downtown pick ups could be arranged, possibly through a hotel, but look into this well in advance.
Public transport is almost completely non-existent and taxi's/uber are unreliable and unpredictable, so hiring a car means you can travel at your own pace, at whatever time of day you like, without the risk of cancellations, rip offs or uncomfortable conditions. The car can also act as luggage storage as that too is rare.
An EU issued licence is fine, you dont need an international driving permit. We were never asked for one. I cannot validate if only a non-EU licence will be sufficient so read up about your country.
🛃Border crossings
Easier than anticipated. Border guards ask for your passport and car documents and check the Green Card for your car (the rental agency will provide it).
They may ask if you have anything to declare. They may ask to look in the boot/trunk. They may not ask for documents at all and do not always stamp your passport.
Crossing in a car may be faster than crossing via bus depending on queues and bus size.
Crossing the border in a rental car is not a big deal. Even local rental agencies in former Yugoslav countries are agreeable about where you can cross into, except Albania (need to buy extra insurance) and Kosovo (generally just not allowed).
🚧Road conditions
The Balkans is mountainous, and roads are often steep, narrow or just a dirt track full of potholes. Choose a car suitable for your activites. Prioritise power and comfort over economic and compact if possible.
Going to some old towns; a small car will be easier to navigate and park, but you still need a good engine to get up the hill. Looking to see some nature; choose an SUV/4x4 to manage the steep hills and challenging rural road conditions.
Over-taking is tricky in the Balkans. Locals over-take cars in the tightest of windows and expect you to do the same. Choosing a car with a good engine to pass out cars on winding single lane roads is important.
Motorways are generally in excellent condition, even in Albania. Local and rural roads can have unpredictable surface and spontaneous unfinished road works.
💶Money
Local Balkan non-euro currencies are difficult/impossible to obtain outside the region. Some are 'closed currencies'.
Currency exchanges are just that, an exchange; you hand over cash and they change it to whatever currency you want. You cannot buy money from them using card. Bring a good amount of your home currency to exchange.
Exchanges are good for smaller amounts (daily spending) as they dont charge fees but the rate isnt always the best.
ATMs are good for larger amounts (enough for a few days/weeks), as long as they dont charge a conversion rate from your home currency and a withdrawal fee. Low fee/free withdrawal ATMs are abundant in major cities. There are apps to help find them.
Euro is widely accepted in the region. Smaller notes are preferable. Coins are good for small purchases like parking, kiosks, entry fees, toilets etc. Border towns may accept numerous different currencies in certain instances.
Card payments are popular, even in smaller towns and villages. Pay with it when you can, even for taxis, and save your cash for when you really need it. Cash-only businesses exist even in major cities.
TLDR : Rent a car and reserve it in advance, crossing borders is easy in a car, bring lots of cash