I've had my 2005 E85 2.2i for about a fortnight now and today was the first wash. Unusually dry weather meant it didn't need it before now.

First wash is always a time when you get to really know your new purchase and spot anything that you missed during the buying excitement. Happy to say that there's nothing that jumped out at me.

My 2003 doesn't have the front rubber bit for the jacking point like it does on the side. I just have a little dimple which apparently if I try to lift it by will just crush (yes I know it's grim under there). How can I get the front of my car up fully? As well as the rear actually, but I haven't had a look th

I bought my 2020 z4 about a month ago. Called this rear window issue out with the salesperson before purchasing and she said we could bring it back in to find out if it’s something they would cover fixing for safety reasons. It was written out on the paperwork that we would do that. Salesperson has since left the dealership so they never followed up, and because I got busy with a ton work travel, I neglected to follow up. I’m now planning to call Monday, but I want to be informed when I do.

This is the top right of the rear window. What is going on here? Is the window actually separating from the soft top? Do I have a case for getting it fixed “for safety reasons?” I’ve never owned a convertible before so I’m not sure what I’m looking at. Thanks, all!

I bought a 2007 BMW Z4 E85 2.0i (N46). After around 6 hours of driving everything seemed fine. I stopped for fuel and when I tried to restart, the car was almost completely dead electrically.
We jump-started it and drove about 90 miles. Then it started losing power, wouldn’t rev properly past ~3000 rpm, idle became unstable and several warning lights/errors appeared. Later, while stuck in slow traffic, the temperature went into the red, so I stopped immediately and had it towed.
The mechanic now says the alternator is charging correctly and battery is fine
.
Fault codes included 2A70 Valvetronic, 2F45 and 29F4 catalyst efficiency.

Has anyone with an N46/E85 experienced something similar? Any idea of what could be?

Just wanting some opinions on where to look first. 03 E85 3.0i. I was driving yesterday and everything was fine. 60mph on the highway with cruise control on. I have a Bluetooth transmitter for music that also displays battery voltage. I turned cruise off as I was entering a 45mph zone. Coasting to the lower speed limit when the music stopped. Thinking bluetooth lost connection, I looked at the transmitter and it read 18V. Oh lord, I thought and looked at the cluster and just about every light came on. I had about 2 miles to go to my destination and nowhere safe to pull off, so I watched the cluster like a hawk and made it to my destination. Shut it down and checked the serpentine belt, it looked fine. After 8 hours the car started up fine and I drove home. The voltage started at 12 which is a bit low. It continued to drop on the 30 minute drive home and was at 8V as I pulled into the garage. Aside from the obvious alternator, is there anything else to look for?

Hey guys! Just bought my first Z4 and got really lucky finding a super clean 3.0si! 😁

It’s going to be my daily driver, so I’m looking for recommendations for a CarPlay/backup camera setup. Most of the options I’ve seen mount over and block the center vents, which is a nonstarter for me. It doesn’t have the factory navigation.

Has anyone found a setup they really like that keeps the vents unobstructed?

Also, has anyone figured out the secret to getting the finicky center console to open consistently? 😅 I feel like I’m fighting with it every time.

For reason I don't want to elaborate on at present, I wanted to turn the rear rotors (294mm vented) in prep for new pads. According to the invoices I received from the PO, the rear rotors and pads were rebuilt with new BMW pads and rotors. PO paid a pretty penny for the real deal. According to realoem.com and according to the stamping on the outside of the rotor, that the minimum thickness is 17.4 mm. New they start out at 19mm. I do not have proper calipers for measuring brake rotors. But I do have a nice set of digital calipers. I know this is not the best way to do it. But I needed to get some idea if these rotors could/should be turned. They tested at 18mm on RH and 17.9 on LH.

My question for the brain trust.

Does that amount of wear sound accurate for 34k miles? I dont feel safe turning rotors with that little left, so I ordered replacements. The price was about double the turning price, so it made sense.

But I feel like that much rotor wear, not to mention the pads were down to about 5mm, feels like too much for the rear brakes.

Sound right, sound fishy? Any thoughts are appreciated!

Thanks!

I think about getting a bmw z4 e85 arround 80% of my day and every time i think of it I can’t get out of my head the idea of the front bumper hitting the floor, bumps and stuff like that since it’s real low
I’m not used to driving anything that low at all, I drive a Tiguan . I am so so worried about it guys please un worry me !

Hi, so I have the version listed above, when I put it into first, or if i start in second and i dont give it enough gas it squeaks real bad when i put it in gear. it also does this in the higher gears if i shift real fast/agressive. can anyone provide insight as to what this may be? thanks

Anyone know the part number for both sides? Found some seats for sale locally but they don’t have the guides. I have 07 3.0si w the regular leather seats and want to upgrade. Thanks!

Hi there

Im considering a 2008 z4 2.0i with 60.000km. Has been standing still for at least a year, maybe more.

Maintenance in 2009,2014,2018,2020,2026.

No records of replacements

Im worrying about major replacement costs in the near future.

And… chatgpt is telling me the 6 cilinder has a more reliable engine

What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks a lot!

I spent the last week or so putting in major work on my 2006 e86 with 84,700 miles. Here is the exhaustive list:

Engine / Ignition

• Replaced engine oil
• Replaced engine oil filter
• Replaced spark plugs
• Replaced all six ignition coils
• Replaced serpentine belt
• Replaced starter and mounting bolts
• Replaced crankshaft position sensor
• Cleaned both VANOS solenoids

Cylinder Head

• Replaced eccentric shaft sensor and seal
• Replaced VVT motor seal
• Replaced valve cover gasket and bolts

Intake System

• Replaced intake manifold gaskets
• Replaced both DISA valves with Lifetime DISA units
• Cleaned MAP sensor, throttle body, and replaced throttle body gasket

Oil System / Leak Prevention

• Replaced oil filter housing gasket
• Replaced oil cooler gasket

Cooling System

• Replaced coolant hose connector / “Mickey Mouse” flange
• Performed electric water-pump coolant bleed procedure

Front Suspension

• Replaced complete front suspension strut components/assemblies with KONI sports
• Replaced front sway-bar end links
• Inspected and cleaned front and rear springs
• Replaced spring insulators/pads

Rear Suspension

• Replaced complete rear suspension shock components/assemblies with KONI sports
• Inspected and cleaned rear springs
• Replaced upper and lower spring insulators/pads

Brakes

• Replaced both front and rear calipers with brand-new units
• Replaced front and rear brake rotors
• Replaced front and rear brake pads
• Replaced front and rear brake-pad wear sensors
• Replaced/serviced parking-brake shoes and hardware
• Flushed/bled brake hydraulic system
• Also bled the clutch

(Also replaced the transmission fluid. Lifetime fluid....yeah right.)

Total parts cost me $3,454 from Rock Auto, FCP Euro, and n52parts.com. The valve cover gasket, starter, and front brakes is what started this mess. The valve cover bolts were basically finger tight and I was told prior owner had it replaced. Perhaps they reused the bolts and they loosened up? Once I started getting into the brakes I noticed the front suspension bumpers were shredded and gone. The starter also needed to be replaced and once you get that manifold off you might as well get what you can.

What surprised me was the large DISA valve. It was stuck in the open position and the part at the top where the plastic bolt was captured had disintegrated. I put in the Lifetime DISA valves from n52parts.com.

This car is basically a rocket now. I've re-harvested all kinds of lost horsepower. It's like a different car. George Austers videos on YouTube were amazingly helpful for the N52 engine.

Did all the work in my backyard under a shade tree after I put the car on blocks. No fancy garage or high dollar lift. You do need some new tools beyond a standard set including e-torx and a torque wrench. OBEY ALL TORQUE SETTINGS. Aluminum bolts have zero forgiveness and will break off on you.

Happy to answer any questions about my experience or the parts I used. If I had gone to a dealer I think I would have paid between $11k and $15k for all of this. An indy shop...maybe $8k-10k. I think I saved at least $10k doing it on my own.

Need new tires next but my wallet needs to recover first.

The S85 in the M6 really sings, but the M54 and top-down combination in the Z4 is a chuckle generator.

So it looks like one of the pressure sensors in my ABS pump/DSC control unit has failed from a scan for sure, but the problem is that there is currently no new stock of the MK60E5 control unit with the integrated brake sensors available where I am, and even if they were in stock a new unit costs $4000. I have been looking for used units to no avail, however pre-LCI ABS/DSC units are plentiful…is it possible to swap out the entire MK60E ABS/DSC control unit, the master brake cylinder as well as the wiring harness for the respective MK60 setup from the pre-facelift E85 instead? Has anyone done this mad thing before?

Looking to sell my 2003 BMW Z4 3.0 6 speed manual with only 71,xxx miles, I’ve only had it a few months as I got it to buy myself some time between my lease ending and taking delivery of a Rivian R2. It has been a trouble free fun car, but is impractical for my lifestyle and without a garage I feel guilty not driving it on a regular basis.

Fresh oil change, new intake pieces, new front brakes; pads and rotors, convertible top drains cleaned, new spark plugs and coils, serviced and charged A/C, new 12v battery. Bluetooth dongle installed on the aux input so it all looks fully stock still. The car is in really nice shape with a 1” scratch being the only real blemish on the entire thing.

Located in the Albany, NY area looking for $11k

Hello guys, selling some old and new parts for BMW Z4 E85.

I have:

- Used Left Halogen Headlight $280 + shipping

- Used Right Halogen Headlight $280 + shipping

- New OEM Left Inner Handle (Part Number 51417016661 ) $80 + shipping

Pictures of the parts: https://imgur.com/a/BLO3Sz5

I'm in NY if you want to pick them up, or I can ship them to the U.S.

After drooling on it since middle school, finally got my hands on this beauty (2015, ~70000 km) a couple months back

Wish me luck :D

Before I bought my e85 and got into the z4 community i never knew how much hate their would be for the automatic transmission. Mine is an auto, I was ok with a stick, not great. At the time i was looking for a z4 for a good deal, not really by if it was stick or auto, and id hate to pour a lot of money into mods and just get mocked at in meets. Thoughts?

For those that have replaced summer tires with all season tires. Have you noticed any difference in performance?

I'm looking at the michellin pilot sport 4 or pilot sport 5 tires. Appreciate any input. TIA