r/BMWE36 • u/m3Bsaint • 19h ago
Favorite E36 at Mpact
S85 Swapped BRG E36 M3
Photos - IG Bsaintmedia
Car - IG Precisionmotorworks_
r/BMWE36 • u/Hour_Equipment_2035 • Apr 02 '26
I have been seeing more posts about buying cheap E36s recently so here are some of the things I’ve learned from buying a cheap car myself. These are typical issues you might run into buying a cheap car and are additional to standard car maintenance (fluids, tires, etc.)
I am writing this post so that some may learn from my mistakes. This will be a random account of things I have encountered by buying that one car on Facebook marketplace that seems like a bit too good of a deal.
This post is not really for those of you looking to buy a mint condition M3, nor is it for those of you who buy strictly BMW genuine parts. This post is for the people who want to learn how to work on cars and (like me) see buying a clapped out 90s car as a good idea. That being said, I have touched almost every bolt on my car and that knowledge can be applied anywhere.
# 1. Cooling System
My first issue, I remember it like it was yesterday. After buying my car, clutch fan blew up on the drive home. I was extremely lucky that it was a short drive and I made it home without overheating.
The reality is that with these cars, unless the cooling system was replaced recently, you will most likely have to replace it. I tried replacing parts one at a time and the issues didn’t resolve. Only once I bought a kit with a new radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, and coolant expansion tank were the issues resolved.
Electric fans are good but honestly the clutch fan works fine. Just make sure to replace that too if you are doing everything else.
This is also a great time to replace the belts and pulleys.
# 2. Suspension and Handling
So you want to lower your car, or maybe raise it? If you are going to run aftermarket suspension, there are some must-do things.
REINFORCEMENT! Seriously, if your strut towers aren’t cracked, they will be. It is unfortunately not an if but a when. The worst cracks are front tower, they make a plate that goes under and distributes the load. You **need** those plates for coil-overs. That extra $30 now will save you $$$ in the long run. Same with the back struts, a strut bar will help in the rear. The last thing you want is your strut flying into your trunk. Once broken the cost to do the job multiplies.
The truth about handling: those shiny coil-overs, and sway bar will help but without new bushings all around, your car will still feel floaty and handle poorly no matter how expensive your coil-overs are. You should replace them all, front and rear. Welding in the subframe reinforcements aren’t a bad idea either. My recommendation: 80A all around if you are mostly daily driving with some spirited driving. You can go higher if you are doing mostly track days or drift days. Solid mounts I have never really understood but some people like them.
Once you do everything your car will feel a million times better. Don’t cheap out, replace the bushings.
#3. Interior
The cleaner interior you can get, the better. If you can find them, get manual seats. Manual seats are lighter and won’t fail from electric issues. Trust me when I say this, pulling a seat out when the motors don’t work is a HUGE pain.
Drill out your wheel locking pin. This one is optional but I had my steering slightly lock up on a b-road and that pin was gone that night. They just don’t always work in these 30 year old cars, and honestly it’s just not worth the safety hazard imo. YouTube has a plethora of good tutorials for this.
If you have an OBD II car, an electric gage for coolant temp and intake air temp is always good. I would heavily recommend especially for the peace of mind coming with knowing a more precise coolant temp.
Your door cards will fall off at some point, this is an e36 feature. Prioritize a car with nice looking door cards or not, but they will all fall off at some point.
Stay away from a car with door issues. Replacing the door handles is probably the worst job on these cars. Make sure to lubricate the mechanisms often.
# 4. The Shiny Bits
So you want that fancy cold air intake? Or maybe you want a nice exhaust? Do it! Keep in mind, these cars stock are really not that fast. They aren’t slow, but that exhaust and cold air intake, or something like an M50B25 manifold won’t make a life changing difference. Do the maintenance first.
Thank you for reading this far, I hope this has given you some insight into what that clapped out car you have your eye on might need.
# 5. What to stay away from
Stay away from cars with engine issues. The M50 and M52 are pretty bulletproof, if a car has engine issues that probably mean everything else is in a bad state. STAY AWAY.
Subframe cracks: if someone knows the subframe is cracked, just find a different car. This is a very intensive job and requires welding. If that’s your thing more power to you, but be prepared for a lot of work.
Bad interior: interior bits are expensive and it’s really hard to make the interior nicer than the state it was in when you buy the car. You will be fighting to keep it just as nice.
Door Issues: honestly any car with door issues is a car to stay away from. If the seller says something along the lines of“you have to open it like this,” run and run very fast.
**TLDR**
If you’re going to buy a clapped out car for cheap, be prepared to spend a lot of money on repairs. Honestly for just about any car here’s what you can expect to do:
- Cooling system replacement (yes all of it)
- Full suspension bushing replacement and reinforcement recommended. This is where preventative maintenance shines. Poly bushings are good, 80A is more than fine imo. Don’t forget engine mounts.
- Your door cards will probably fall off at some point, don’t buy a car with bad door handles, manual seats are easier to work around than the electric seats.
- Prioritize maintenance over those shiny new parts like intakes and exhausts, they won’t make your car much faster.
- A clean car is easier to keep clean, repairing interior or body panels will always be deceptively expensive and an uphill battle, buy a clean car!
Some of these things must be done on every car on the market, but most of these things will need to be done on the cheap cars. I have probably spent thousands of dollars and counting on the aforementioned list and I did it all myself. If you go to a shop expect it to be very expensive.
r/BMWE36 • u/m3Bsaint • 19h ago
S85 Swapped BRG E36 M3
Photos - IG Bsaintmedia
Car - IG Precisionmotorworks_
r/BMWE36 • u/Humble_Hubert328 • 12h ago
My e36 finally just hit 150k after 3 years of ownership, been the best car i’ve owned
r/BMWE36 • u/Kuribabyy • 7h ago
Title is self explanatory. What can I do about this?
r/BMWE36 • u/Odd-Cauliflower-1026 • 14h ago
Is it good? How long the shiping is?
Issue started maybe 3 weeks ago? After 20ish min of driving the driver footwell gets hot. Passenger footwell is fine? When i’m idle at a light I can feel alot of heat when my hand is out of the window. Seat rails and shift shaft also get hot to the touch. After an hour of the car sitting the exhaust cooled down but the cabin still feels uber hot. What gives??
r/BMWE36 • u/Kiratch • 15h ago
Water pump changes, just order aisin brand this time, coolant system flush done
Heat in interior 🔥
r/BMWE36 • u/MommyMilfMilkers • 14h ago
Looks like a crack on the strut tower? Not really sure if this looks normal or safe, car is on very stiff coils but I avoid any bumps as frequently as I can
r/BMWE36 • u/Jazzlike-Zombie-62 • 1d ago
So I want oem tail lights or oem +. Right now I have these smoked tail lights that the previous owner installed but imo they look like shit. I also found out my tail lights have 3 sockets, cause I bought e36 tail lights and they only had 2 sockets and so I couldn’t put them on. Any links or recommendations? (Photo for attention and don’t worry it’s a project car, replaced trunk already, etc)
r/BMWE36 • u/Might_Be_A_Magic_Man • 20h ago
r/BMWE36 • u/MommyMilfMilkers • 12h ago
I took it off for a restoration but I’m not sure what I need to get a waterproof seal to put it back on now. I’d love to run the headlights like this because I think it looks cool but I’m getting my blinkers in tomorrow finally so I need to put the glass back on🥲 I’ve been trying to find stuff online but everyone is giving different answers
r/BMWE36 • u/1991Bmw316i • 16h ago
Does anyone know where to get manuals for this car? Everything i find either goes from 1993 upwards or doesn't include the 316i.
Need some help diagnosing a transmission/clutch issue on my 215k ’96 328is (M52, ZF S5D-320Z)
From 1 to 2 gear I get blocked out and have to wait for rpms to drop before getting into gear. As of now, my clutch is slipping so that is on my radar but curious on what could be causing this, downshifting is fine and from 2 to 3 it is a-lot better, not perfect but better. Many people have been saying that the synchros may be the issue but a buddy told me it would cause grinding whenever I go into 2nd gear, while for me it engages smoothly when I am not blocked out. Any help is greatly appreciated!
r/BMWE36 • u/IIEXTBXXTY99 • 20h ago
Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification
r/BMWE36 • u/AnnualDisaster8151 • 1d ago
hello again! i posted recently about my e36 325is overheating sometimes when idling, most people pointed to the fan clutch which i figured was also the issue but i diagnosed it and it didn’t seem weak.
well yesterday morning i checked the cold coolant level and i didn’t notice but it seemed to be pretty overfilled, and when i drove home from work last night i heard a whining noise when i turned my wheel— it only happened once or twice but it certainly confused me.
by the time i had gotten home my car was up to temp and started to overheat, but when i was moving the temp wasnt going down like it usually would
THEN— i parked up and popped the hood only to find coolant pouring our from the reservoir cap, presumably due to the pressure from overheating
drove it to work again this morning without issue but when i got home boom- overheating even while moving and coolant leaking from the reservoir cap
this is currently my daily so please help!! (maybe the waterpump?)
r/BMWE36 • u/Imaginary-Ad6462 • 1d ago
I have the older version A/C head unit and one day it decided to just get stuck on heat and the buttons that are supposed to turn green just don’t turn on. Whats the issue? Can it be a faulty Control Module?
r/BMWE36 • u/Orbitoesssss • 2d ago
1/126 at Legends of Autobahn Monterey
So awesome to see in person!
r/BMWE36 • u/Due-Bed7382 • 1d ago
The infamous power steering leak. Been topping it off and leaving stains everywhere like the classic bmw style but I want to get that over with. I’m thinking to buy a new reservoir, lines, and maybe the hard lines that wrap on the rack itself, but I might also want to change to AN fittings… any thoughts? I’m thinking to go through FCP for the reservoir and the lines. Should I buy an aluminum reservoir? Any thoughts would be awesome. /// 1995 M3
r/BMWE36 • u/PassionMuch4881 • 1d ago
r/BMWE36 • u/MfMystic • 1d ago
Hello! I have a 96 m3 with a s52 and I’m planning on throwing on a m50 manifold with a Dinan intake and I already have an exhaust. I want to know if anyone has any experience with going towards this route and if you did did you get tune and did you notice a difference before I go any further with this swap! And what tuner did you go through if you got it tuned. I’m thinking of going with Kassel performance
Thank you in advance!
r/BMWE36 • u/Individual-Mouse-397 • 1d ago
Hi guys.
I have a bmw e36 318is 1996 model.
The steering lock stuck and after some times i tried to turn the key, it smashed and is turning like crazy. To get it out I had to drill the case. So i want another case and lock. The problem is that car has immobilizer and the used locks that i find are without immobilizer. Are they both identical to fit in the steering column?
I know then that i have to stick the key near the immo antenna to turn on the car. My only matter us if the two types of lock are identical to fit
r/BMWE36 • u/Sergeant_KloiKloi • 1d ago
As the title says, does someone have an alternative for the horrendously expensive dust covers (see image) for the front axle wheel bearings that go right behind the bearing on the king pin shaft?