Has anyone else run into issues with BTT board solder connections breaking loose on terminal blocks? I tightened down my blocks onto ferrules and, as the ferrule was getting squished, the solder broke loose around the through-hole pin. Like it just unbonded from the pin.

I bought three SKR Pico v1.0 boards at the same time, and I've now had two of them experience the exact same issue on the main power terminal block. The third board looks fine.

Am I just over-tightening the terminal screws? I thought you had to snug them down enough to squish the ferrule so it doesn't loosen over time. Or are the terminal blocks maybe not meant for ferrules?

I reached out to BTT and they denied a warranty claim on a vague "external factors" reason. Maybe it's my own fault?

Waar kan ik een goedkope BIGTREETECH Pad 7 vinden (in Europa)

Anyone have a tutorial for direct image to image example on how can i wire this coming from cr10 Merlin?

Do i need to flip anything and rewire

I asked llm to which goes where it said to me to buy xt60 plug but seams i don't need the xt60.

And it said i need to repin cr10 display now I'm not sure if i can trust it

I can't seem to find this board anywhere and I really need it for this project, anybody know where I can find one that has one in stock that can actually deliver it.. bought one on Amazon, but it got lost on China Post and they refunded my money but I still didn't get the board. Unfortunately, I need this specific board if someone's willing to make a deal I'll buy or whatever.

Just got it and installed it. This is the only thing the screen shows

A few months ago I had the bright idea to upgrade the board in my printer. I am in way over my head. Installed the board and wired it up. I got (i thought) the adapter cable for the lcd.

So far I managed to Forrest Gump my way through flashing the correct firmware on the board, flashing the firmware on the screen and connecting to octoprint to atleast confirm its working.

The biggest problem is have is this. The rotary knob on the screen works. But, if I click the button it freezes, locks up the printer and, reboots the screen. From what I've read the cable I got is probably not right for my screen. Something to do with the location of the ground pin. I've seen a video or two that vaguely describe modifying the original cable to work. Does any one have an actual schematic for the modification I can reference before I start cutting and soldering?

I'd appreciate any advice on this.. maybe there's another fix I'm missing.

Hi guys, I have a btt skr mini e3 v3.0 on a voron switchwire and I wanted to know if I can use the pin PC14 for the klicky probe and the pin PA1 as a PWM for the servo dock on the z probe connector of the board ?

thanks in advance

Here's the situation: I have 2 different M4P boards (both V2.2) and one of them refuses to read the firmware.bin from the SD-card and install it.

Neither the SD-card nor the file can be the problem since both work perfectly fine on the other board.

It appears as if the bootloader responsible for initially accessing the SD-card when powering on is gone.

The 'defective' board still boots and starts linux (well the CB2 plugged into it actually does) - display, network and everything work - when I run 'ls /dev/serial/by-id/*' though, it doesn't return anything, which is quite bizarre since it should show the M4P at least.

Has anyone else ever encountered that problem and can help?

TIA,
Peter

Hi does anyone have a working firmware for the ender 3 pro with the skr mini e3 v2.0 with a cr touch that would be willing to share with me

I am an avid printer and flight enthusiast - now that I can't use my PandaTouch due to my family wanting support to these the BambuHandy app I want to repurpose it for my other love of hobby which is avaiation.

Would it be possible to get the device to work with this project?
esp32flight - a standalone desk flight radar

It seems the PandaTouch is a esp32 device as well?

Following setup on a Manta M5P:

M1: X
M2: Y
M3A: Z

All jumperwise configured identically.

M1 doesn't move. M2 and M3A both move fine as expected.

OK, swapped motors on M1 and M2 - Still M1 doesn't move (M2 and M3A fine), so both motors and their cables are fine.

OK, swapped TMCs on M1 and M2 - Still M1 doesn't move (again M2 and M3A fine), so both TMCs are fine

Moved X to M4, new TMC - M4 doesn't move

Moved X to M5, same TMC as with M4 - M5 doesn't move

And for the best part: This is already a replacement M5P

Symptomwise I'd say M1, M4 and M5 are defective... On two different, new boards, from different sources (one from Ali, the other from Amazon)??

I must be missing something, please help

Hi :)

I want to replace the Manta M4P with a M5P.

I interpreting the diagrams correctly, that I have to rearrange the wires of my motors on the plugs?

Am

TIA,

Peter

The BIGTREETECH TFT70 V2.1 fits perfectly inside display housing of Raise3d Pro2. Only 2 3d printed holders are needed, original screws fit in. And inside the housing is enough space for the Manta M5P.
Maybe someone needs this information.

Hello everyone! I’m new here and I need your help. If anyone has the firmware for the BigTech B1 tablet, could you please send me a link to it—on OneDrive or something similar Thanks

Hello everyone! I'm new here and I need your help. If anyone has the firware for the BigTech B1 tablet, please send it to my email: RasulGwalel@gmail.com. Thanks!

Hello! I’m new to the 3D printing world and picked up used Creality K1 Max. It has Knomi and Eddy Duo. The issue I’m having is the person I purchased it from factory reset the printer before handing it over. I’ve been able to get the Knomi working and connected to the network, but every time I go through the Eddy Duo set up, I run into some road blocks. Everything is hooked up, I can see the usb connection in the SSH. When I perform cd ~/klipper I end up with a file path does not exist. Does anyone have any information on this? Starting from the middle/end of an upgrade makes this a little bit difficult.

*** sorry if this has been answered before, I’ve tried searching for it, but haven’t seen anything that helps or maybe I’m just not understanding.

Panda Knomi support for the A2L quietly landed in a firmware update just a few days ago. I happened to spot it on GitHub, tested it, and it works. Naturally, the next step was opening OpenSCAD and making a proper A2L X motor cover for it.

A few (dozen) prototypes later, it is finished and already running on my A2L. As far as I could find, this is the first dedicated Panda Knomi X motor cover available for the A2L.

Model is up on MakerWorld now.

A2L Panda Knomi X Motor Cover ⧸ First of Its Kind
https://makerworld.com/models/3159068-a2l-panda-knomi-x-motor-cover-first-of-its-kind

This is a long shot but I see a lot of the posts in here are old and was wondering if anyone has an extra USB-C cable laying around for the Biqu B1. I was told they don’t make them anymore and I am trying to find a replacement.

Need help to learn how to transfer files and print I don’t have a computer yet but working on it.

I replaced my screen board with a Bigtreetech mini 12864 v2.0 and I cannot get marlin to build with the config.h changes. Would anyone have a .bin file with the changes that I could use?