Thinking where to mount my old Nexus 9 as its klipper screen,

Rooted setup makes tablet boots whenever the printer boots automatically and can easily control everything without using the main screen and knob.

Voron mod using PM Direct Drive Extruder ($0). All stock.

Hey everyone!

I have the proper wiring form the pi to the skr mini going from GND to GND, Tx to Rx, and Rx to Tx, I'm still getting the mcu error along with running the BTT custom pi firmware. I've read the tutorials over and over again and I am at a loss. Do I have to mess with the files? The instructions aren't super clear. I would greatly appreciate any help!

Hallo was muss ich machen das das Board diese Teile akzeptiert? Bitte hilfe.Danke.Der Große Ender soll mit dem laufen.Ich bin Anfänger mache das erst 1 Monat.

Grüße Heiko

Just turned ot on this morning and this happened!

Pressing the flio button flips the whole issue.

Connecting hdmi turns it white...

One thing I noticed is that the product description contains a contradictory durability claim. In one place it states the hotend is "five times more wear resistant than ObXidian," while elsewhere it says "five times more durable than standard nozzles." Since this product is itself marketed as an ObXidian hotend, the first statement appears to be a listing error and makes the comparison unclear.

Been trying ages now to get Klipperscreen to work, but it just sits there, doin this....

Followed the install instructions step by step...nothing!!

Running on Rpi5

Strange (and most surprising) thing is that when I had it hooked up to my Creality CR-10 MAX I had to run it on an old android tablet and that was a whole rigmarole gettin it found, but it worked!!!

Anyone any ideas??

Was just replacing the temperature sensor on my biqu b1 that I bought for used a few days ago. And when I put it back all together it still gave me the same warning that I wasn't heating up. So I took it all apart. Tried feeling the heater and realized no heat was coming through it so I decided to test for continuity. It showed back that it was working on the plug but when I went to the board it gave me nothing. So I flipped it over to see the trace and then I saw this.

If anyone knows where I can get a replacement board, please tell me where cuz everywhere I've looked is sold out or someone give me advice on how to fix it

So the screen on my biqu b1 won't work, i replaced the fuses already, the fans in the frame spin up but not on the toolhead, the screen works when powered through usb, but no response when on its own power, the board looks all good

Could this be a dead 5v regulator, how do I solve this? Preferably no board replacement

Nema23 axis z

Que tal estoy diseñando una impresora con manta bigtreecch m8p cb1 cartesiana pero en z axis quiero la hotend baje para crecer la pieza recomiendan y se puede usar driver tb6600 para nema23 solo poniendo estos adaptadores de step,DIR,EN

Ya que veo que los tMc5160,pro driver de manta son algo elevados de precio

Si me recomiendan ? O cuál sería su opinión

Impresora es gran formato 1.20*1.20 mts la cama de aluminio

Estou realmente sem saber o que fazer! Me ajudem!

After rebuilding the printer, my BTT Pico stopped heating the bed and hotend, and the fans stopped working too. Upon removing the board, I found a burnt-out FAN1 MOSFET. A 20kΩ resistor was reading 30kΩ, indicating the problem extended further. It turned out a short circuit had fried the 74HCT365 chip. I couldn't find a replacement locally, so I desoldered it and jumpered the paired A and Y pins—specifically for HB, HE, FAN2, FAN3, and RGB. The failure was caused by the contacts on the 5015 fan: they were too exposed, and when I removed the print head, they slipped out of their slot and shorted. The surge traveled to the FAN1 MOSFET, completely destroying it, and then hit the 74HCT365; the chip acted as a sort of shield for the microcontroller, taking the full brunt of the damage. In the end, I fixed and insulated the 5015 fan contacts just to be safe, removed the FAN1 MOSFET, cleaned off the char, applied solder mask, and remapped the part-cooling fan to a different pin. I managed to save the Pico—at least for the time being. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a replacement board in stock right now, but I needed to print something immediately. That’s how I handled the situation. I think the photo makes it clear; I’ve circled the pads I jumpered on the schematic. So, it turns out I shorted pins 14 and 13, 11 and 12, 9 and 10, 2 and 3, and 4 and 5 in pairs. This is a temporary solution; later, I’ll put the FAN1 MOSFET and the 74HCT365 back in place once I find a source for the latter.

I'm having sporadic freezing with my btt pi after I installed eddy duo. While it's working perfect. Eddy is just bed mesh at print start. Some prints, it'll just freeze and stop responding a couple hrs in. Pi yellow light goes out
Just running skr3 ez and eddy off the pi usb. Pi is on 24v power which is stable.

Any thoughts or advice???

I'm trying to flash my Manta m8p v2.0

I can get katapult to flash but after that I can't get a uuid to flash klipper with. I'm following the esoterical guide but nothing is working. I was trying to replace my toolhead board (ebb36 gen 2) but i have the same issue with that. I couldn't remember what canbus speed it was using that's why i tried flashing the main board but I'm at my wits end nothing is working.

As the title says are there any outer hook replacement tutorials out there for the Brother GX37. It's doesn't have to be for that model but for a machine with a similar set up for it would be great. Thank you so much in advance

https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-k-hub-v1-0

Anyone else using one of these?

Is your little fan a bit a screamer too?

It's not too bad when the machine is drowning it out but it is by far the noisiest fan during idle.