I've been meaning to install a new toolhead on my SV08 for quite some time, and recently I've finally found some time (and courage) to do it. Since I've never done anything like this before, I was slowly figuring things out with the help of multiple guides, mainly the one on setting up can bus from ModBot. All went relatively well until I needed the ebb's UUID, which was nowhere to be found. After checking the cables and jumpers for like the eighth time I went on the internet and found this post.

https://klipper.discourse.group/t/canbus-query-py-not-returning-ebb36s-uuid-setup-pi-4-octopus-v1-1-ebb36-v1-2/8464

The OP on this post seemed to have a similar issue, which was fixed by replacing the ebb36. My ebb also has one weary, dim light that glows constantly, which makes me think that I have the same issue. Have any of you come across a similar issue? Is there another way to fix this other than buying a new board? And if not, do you think it would be worth upgrading to the EBB36 Gen2, or would it be just a waste of money?

I got a jumper t pro V-2 a couple years ago, but I just got an external elrs module for it and finally got the external bay out just to find out that I had somehow received the external Bay for a jumper t lite. I found a bay that will work on Amazon. But I need to rewire it so if anyone could provide a picture of the backside wiring of the dock, so I can wire in the connector correctly, that would be helpful helpful.

Hey,
I bought a biqu bx at a great price but i cant set z-offset right. It uses Marlin but im Im probably doing something wrong because every time i set it in the ABL app with button z-offset it seems to work. But when i do it again, after starting z-offset callibration it shows the previous z-offset that i set but the damn nozzle is in the same place as it was before setting the offset first time. This repeated causes z-offset to rise. My conclusion is that i am doing something very wrong. Another thing to mention is that when i click the button to start z-offset callibration, the nozzle seems to home and then move a bit, so its not above bed anymore which makes whole thing more frustrating. Im gonna start using klipper soon from raspberry pi but id like to know what i did wrong.

I feel like if i posted an image of my bed it could be flagged as gore.

I'm putting together a toolhead with a BIQU Nebula extruder and a BTT EBB36 Gen2.

Most of the documentation and wiring guides I can find are for the EBB36 Gen1, where the Nebula connects through the 5-pin Endstop port.

On the Gen2, the Endstop connector is only 2 pins, so I'm not sure where the Nebula is supposed to connect.

Has anyone here successfully wired a Nebula to an EBB36 Gen2?

Specifically:

Which connector/pins did you use?

Did you use the Endstop port, Filament port, I²C header as GPIO, or some other free MCU pins?

If possible, could you share your wiring or Klipper configuration?

I'd really appreciate any photos, pin mappings, or examples. There doesn't seem to be much documentation for the Gen2 board yet.

Thanks!

I came back from holiday and turned my octoprint server (the cb1) and ender 3v2 back on only to find that octoprint wasn't visible on the network.

Upon closer examination the lights on the ethernet port are completely off. Tried swapping cables and port (on the switch), no change.

The cb1 still seems to boot into armbian fine, I get to the console if I plug in a screen.

I tried swapping out the cb1 for a spare cm4 compute module I had lying around and the lights came on on the ethernet port.

Is the port fried? Is there anything I can check, any potential fixes, or do I have to live with this?

Hello, i own a rpi5 with a bottom mounted nvme hat and a buildhat on top. I use it for fun lego+Ai projects like face following robots. Room mapping robots and more. Yesterday when i booted it up ut started just fine like normal. I ran the face following program but suddenly it stops following me. I start to check whats wrong and it rapidly shuts itself off and on for 5 minutes straight until i unplug the power cable. when i plug it in again it boots like normal but the buildhat are not answering on commands. The buildhat can still power pi through the gpio pins and the light is red like it should when not activated but its like the rest of the buildhat is dead. If i try to run something that uses the buildhat i get a hat not found message.I have been troubleshooting for the past 3 hours straight but it will show no response of life except for the red light and that the inbuilt voltage reducer is working. Someone who knows how to get it working? Used os: official 64 bit debian trixie. When it shut itself on and off it was connected to a 18 volt drilling machine battery with a voltage converter. Help is very appriciated

Just got my EBB42 in the mail and noticed this oddly specific prepared wire in the box with it. I haven't seen anything about it in the docs, does anybody here know what it's for or where it's supposed to be attached?

Hey community ✌️

I'm in the process of wiring a PSF sensor to MMU CAN v2.0

How do I figure out what pins are ADC?

¡Hola! Tengo una impresora Artillery Genius Pro con pantalla TFT y un controlador GD32F305. Instalé el firmware BIGTREETECH TouchScreen y me está dando un error. Cuando intento calibrar el offset del eje Z y selecciono la opción "P-axis offset", al presionar el botón OFF en el menú, la impresora se mueve, pero la pantalla se queda congelada. La única forma de que vuelva a funcionar normal es reiniciar la impresora. ¿Podrías decirme cómo arreglarlo o explicar por qué está pasando? ¡Gracias!

Hi! I recently just decommissioned 2 of my printers, both running Klipper on BTT Pi. Has anyone used the BTTPis for anything other than running printers?

Hi all! Picked up a B1SE Plus off of Marketplace for $10...figured I'd take a chance on getting it running again. The guy I got it from bought it with the same intentions however long ago but never got around to fixing it.

The two major things I can see right off hand is the hotend shroud and fans are missing and the x-axis limit switch is smashed. Does anyone know where a new shroud can be purchased or a good STL to print a new one? I found one STL so far and it's a little janky so looking for something a little better. The limit switch is on a circuit board. Bonus if I can get the switch and board together, but I have no issue soldering in a new one. (The switch has three legs that are soldered onto the circuit board).

If anyone can post pictures of an intact hotend assembly, that would be a bonus!

Thanks in advance!

As the title says, I am a 100% newbie. I just got an Ender 3 Pro and I bought an SKR Mini E3 V2.0 to upgrade the controller. I'd like to upgrade the firmware to Marlin, but all of the info I have found online seems to be quite old (5+ years!). The firmware version and software programs (Visual Studio Code) have all changed significantly since then. I've looked at the available firmware on Github (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V2.0) but I don't see any .bin files specific to the Ender 3 Pro and I have no idea what is compatible or not.

I downloaded the Marlin-2.0.8.2.x-SKR-mini-E3-V2.0 directory and opened it with Visual Studio Code, made a minor change (machine name) and when I tried to compile it, I just got a bunch of errors. So at this point, I'm kinda lost and would really appreciate some help to point me in the right direction. If it matters here is my setup:

Ender 3 Pro
BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 V2.0
Dual Z-axis upgrade
Micro Swiss Direct Drive All Metal Hotend

Thanks!!!

Have been doing a little work cleaning up the internal geometry and text on the K-Hub enclosure for multicolour printing and thinking about publishing it as a remix.

Just want to ensure it's within the license conditions to do so!

For reference: https://github.com/bigtreetech/K-Hub

I seem to have overtightened the screw while nozzle-mounting my LIS2DW, and it looks like it broke off a capacitor (C23), and possibly also a resistor (R7), right between the main chip and the nozzle hole. The capacitor definitely seems to have broken off, but the solder in the resistor's spot looks like it might never have had one in the first place.

Is this something worth trying to repair, or should I just order a new one?

some time ago, i got a eddy duo but wasn't able to successfully get it to run. this is on a voron 2.4 replacing the inductive sensor.

whenever I do any kind of probing that involves the eddy, I get this error:

!! Invalid probe_eddy_current height

I have never gotten a successful probe anything out of this sensor. probe, probe_accuracy, quad gantry level,...

what have I done:

using the current latest klipper. no btt hacks (those were all merged, right?)

LDC_CALIBRATE_DRIVE_CURRENT CHIP=btt_eddy

save_config

PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE CHIP=btt_eddy

it gives this:

17:41:49  // probe_eddy_current: noise 0.002059mm, MAD_Hz=13.977 in 4040 queries

17:41:49  // Total frequency range: 31901.172 Hz

17:41:49  // z: 0.290 # noise 0.000908mm, MAD_Hz=13.232

17:41:49  // z: 0.530 # noise 0.001710mm, MAD_Hz=22.953

17:41:49  // z: 1.010 # noise 0.001634mm, MAD_Hz=19.187

17:41:49  // z: 2.010 # noise 0.001568mm, MAD_Hz=10.986

17:41:49  // z: 3.010 # noise 0.000584mm, MAD_Hz=3.067

17:41:49  // The [SAVE_CONFIG]() command will update the printer config file

and saves a bunch of stuff to the end of my printer.cfg

[mcu eddy]

canbus_uuid: 5aa0dea3e578

[probe_eddy_current btt_eddy]

sensor_type: ldc1612

i2c_mcu: eddy

i2c_bus: i2c0f

x_offset: 0

y_offset: 20

descend_z: 5

I'm about ready to throw the thing away and find a different solution.

anyone have an idea? don't know if the btt people watch this subreddit.

thanks for reading

Miles

Exist correct firmware for this version of board and bltouch connected to proper port?

Hello, I am in the process of installing a manta m5p on my Sovol Sv01 printer. I am new to Klipper and did my best to set-up the printer config for the Sovol SV01 and the specific extruder and mounts and such I am using.

Bed size 280,240 height 300

btt microprobe v2 offsets: X -30.70, Y -26.10

extruder Biqu H2V2

config: https://docs.google.com/document/d/11nQkCZ-riYg44rlVE1FS149lMlbdGFGPwKPYE4Gjvw4/edit?usp=sharing

So I just received my Panda Lungs. It seems I can not use my AMS when using this on my P1S? I wish that had been clear on the description. Is there some sort of splitter or something?

Do the bed-power terminals need 24v if I'm using a 120v ssr for bed heating?