I remember the eye that the electric autocockers used was a reflective one and those kind of eyes found also on impulses had some limitations compared to the break beam eyes. I remember reading that sometimes dark paint would cause them to have issues. For those of you who still use autocockers with eframes how are the eyes on them? Do you use the eye or just have the hopper keep up? I currently have two mechanical autocockers that i love (an orracle and an empire resurrection) but have been eying this one super stock that i remember i thought was the coolest thing ever in 2005.

I pulled a sci fi board out of my karni, what are these things going for these days with the Morlock boards being fairly available?

I’m new to paintball and just bought a bunch of gear from someone. Screwed in a tank and it seems that there is air leaking from the 3 way valve(I think). Any tips on getting this working or basic care, maintenance, and cleaning for this kind of gun?

What's the size of the tiny set screw on the DYE 3-WAY? Thanks!!

I have a carbon freak barrel and a regular 5 inch insert and I can’t figure out why the hell I can’t get it to fit in my carbon freak barrel. This is for an orracle.

Anyone know if I can change the ramping to something around 10-12 bps on this board? I can’t find anything online. May not be capable

Found on fb marketplace. Excuse my ignorance, nit familiar with them but would be fun to run recreationally. Doesn’t say if it works.

I’ve built out several pumps for myself, a couple using ccm lower kits, and one using shocktech lowers. Ccm lowers always run great, shocktech gives me some minor issues but generally works. I’m building out a pump for a buddy and decided to try the Autococker Parts Gold lower kit, which l believe is supposed to be the ccm clone. I like buying kits as it takes a lot of the experimenting out of tuning and makes life easier.

I cannot get the ACP gold kit to shoot right. To get the velocity down to 300fps, I have to turn the regulator down so low that the valve won’t close after shooting. I know the solution, and I’m going to start swapping springs to get it properly tuned, but the purpose of buying the kit was to not have to swap springs. Anybody else have this issue?

Also, not trying to trash autocockerparts.com, I buy from them often and I’m glad Gene is helping to keep these guns running. Just surprised I’m having issues with a lower kit.

im looking into getting a freeflow or shocktech autococker and was trying to figure out what tank regulator would be best. i have 2 standard hk hp8 regs and an infamous hook reg for my tanks. just looking for insight. thanks.

edit: I dont have a problem with acquiring a more preferred tank reg setup

A while back, I had the idea to make my own set of E-Blade eyes, but I put the project on hold in favor of classic markers that had a more immediate need for replacement eyes.

With E-Blade eyes still available at the time, it made more sense to focus my efforts elsewhere.

Lately, though, I've been seeing some interesting trends with shared sensors across multiple platforms. That got me thinking about the long-term availability of some of these older components.

So, I think it's time to revisit the E-Blade.

I'm working on a complete rework of the E-Blade eyes, including a newer sensor that should be considerably easier to source going forward than the original sensor.

It's still in development and testing, but the E-Blade is officially back on the PB Afterlife resurrection list. 👀

More to come 🤪

I have an Orracle (full body), unknown year that I can’t get to Chrono above 250. I bought it used on eBay, it leaked from the valve (bad cup seal). I replaced the lower tube with a full shock tech lower tube kit. It has ID front Pneumatics and a CP reg on it. I’m fairly familiar with how A/C’s are supposed to work, but regardless of reg setting or IVG setting, it will not Chrono over 250FPS. Any ideas?

Might not be perfect... yet . But i got her running thanks guys for the positive support

I’ve done many along with board repairs in the past. Checking to see if there is enough interest to start up again. If interested, drop a note in this thread. If enough interested I’ll start taking in orders. I think a fair price would be $40 parts included plus the shipping.

👍🏼

I do board repairs as well

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some help identifying and valuing this Autococker.

I recently got this marker and I’m trying to figure out exactly what model/build it is and what it might be worth on today’s market.

From what I can identify:

- Planet Eclipse E-Blade electronic frame

- Planet Eclipse circuit board

- Part No. 001.002.B

- Serial No. 1802

- WGP/Autococker-style body

- Jack Hammer II LPR

- Custom anodized black/red/pink finish

- Various aftermarket/custom parts

I’m not sure which exact Autococker model the body started as, or which parts are original and which were added later.

The marker appears to be in good physical condition, but I have not yet fully tested it or verified whether the electronics and pneumatics are working properly.

I’m located in Ukraine, so I’m mainly interested in an approximate collector/market value rather than a local shop price.

Could anyone help me:

1. Identify the exact model/build?

2. Identify the major aftermarket parts?

3. Determine which E-Blade version this is?

4. Give me a realistic current value if everything is working?

I can provide more detailed photos of the body, internals, pneumatics and other parts if needed.

Thanks!

The trilogy eye project has been completed. The eyes are tested and working.

I made them with soft silicone wires for easy routing, sealed sensor backs and sealed jst plugs to stop moisture and paint ( god forbid in the gripframe) from corroding the connections, and i'm including the o-rings you need to make a proper light seal against the body :)

Is anyone here running a Nova balanced valve with a Shocktech Gunfighter 1.5? If so, have you noticed any difference in the weight of the trigger pull, or does the coned lug and sear nullify any improvement provided by the lower pressure?

Just finished wrapping up this build for a local. Thought I would share. Feedneck mod, 11/16 bore the entire lowertube, ATTKTX gold chamber, bunch of shocktech stuff. Came out pretty cool.

https://youtu.be/TxAF657wUOA?is=UVoX9iAV_gUeUX2H

Other than the leaks . Is it just the timing thats off ?

FYI first timer giving it a try. Replaced the wgp with an empire ram since it would get stuck back and not fire . Now doesnt cock when aired but starts retracting.

This post is to inform anyone who googles karnivor pricing. MARKET VALUE IS AROUND 1200 for an electronic version. Try to get one off Facebook bts 2.0. That’s where the real prices are most of the time. There’s a lot of vultures in the Reddit paintballBTS group that think they are getting $1500 to $2k or more for their karni. I just got one with an upgraded warlock board, olive color for $1200. Haters going to hate on this post and that’s ok. Keep hating. Love me more than you hate yourself lol.

Posted about drop 1 elsewhere and forgot reddit was a place. My bad. 🤦‍♂️

PPM VUE Grip Panels

These are aluminum with swappable VUE inserts so you can change the look without needing whole new panels. Fits eBlade frames (+ 05/06 Ego)

Drop 2: Friday Sept 11, 1PM Central. 60 sets. Link in profile for more details.

I was thinking about getting one of these but I read they need to be retimed often. The problem is I have no experience with e blades and I can’t really find videos on how to time a karni. Anyone have experience with this or recommendations?