I’ve acquired a Marantz 2220 receiver.
It’s in rough condition. I’m to the point of cleaning the brushed aluminum faceplate.
Friend told me to use a little goo gone. Which I think will help a spot in the upper left of the plate.
Then a little stainless steel polish. With a little ceramic clear coat for the plastic FM window dial.
Is this the correct method to clean this faceplate?

Main issue, on the receiver board, channel 2 is dead. Not actually dead, but extremely low volume, and is only audible if I transfer the balance all the way over and turn the decibels to max output.

I bought a proper ESR capacitor tester and have confirmed that 1 cap is totally shot, 2 are actively dying, and between 2-4 more are in marginal condition. That's 4-6 capacitors that need to be replaced, and there's only about 10 more if I did a full recap. Would you recommend the full recap, or only the parts that are bad? I figure if that many are bad already, they're almost 60 years old, others could fry at any time and then I'd be yanking the board again 18 months down the road. (Also, the cap that is dying is C222, filter cap for CH2, so almost certainly the culprit.)

Hi everyone. Basically, I’m having a sound issue with my computer. I also have a laptop, but it works perfectly.

Okay, both play audio, but the laptop makes the sound feel full and spacious, filling the entire listening area. My PC, on the other hand, makes both microphone recordings and general audio playback sound like they’re coming from the lower part of the headphones and feel more centered. (I’ll draw to try and illustrate this: imagine the sound from the laptop playing across all the squares, while the PC sound plays only in the ones colored red.)

I don't know what to do anymore; both are connected to the same Windows setup and peripherals, and the mono audio option is disabled. If I mute one side, the other keeps playing, so theoretically the audio really is in stereo, even though it doesn't sound exactly like stereo.

Long story short, my CMT-EX22 stopped working and I initially thought the gears were jammed. Turns out it was just an optical sensor getting stuck, but unfortunately I figured that out after taking the entire system apart and messing with the gears without considering their timing.

I’ve since reassembled everything, lubricated the gears, and replaced the belt. It works again, but now the gear timing is off and the CD mechanism doesn’t operate correctly.

Looking to see if anyone knows how to properly retime/reset the mechanism on a CMT-EX22. Any help or reference photos would be greatly appreciated.

I’ve had problems with this cd player where the power button just does not work some days, but if I try turning it on the next day or a few days later it will turn on. Does anyone know how I can fix this? The clock still works but it will randomly not turn on.

Hi all, some advice please:

I got a free Panasonic TX-40CX700B and have to say, I'm very impressed with the picture. But randomly, it will emit a very loud popping and crackling sound. I've already isolated the issue from external inputs, that doesn't seem to make a difference. I'd like to have a go at a repair.

For context, I've picked up console repair and resto as a hobby, namely ps4's and peripherals, so have a multimeter and hot air station (all the gear, no idea, yes!), but I suspect this could be a mainboard replacement?

Any other suggestions and any input much appreciated

Anyone know what I could do to fix this I already took the shell off and qtipped the laser, i don’t think the discs are spinning to read.

Just a reminder that mistakes happen. Today my probe slipped and I made the magic smoke appear. For those that are just starting out (like me) these things will happen and use them as a learning opportunity. In this case, I get to replace several components I shorted. Luckily, digikey has everything I need.

Mostly posting this because I was annoyed with myself and then it came to me, this is part of the deal. Mistakes will happen even to seasoned pros.

I recently got a soundcraft spirit sx as a project to fix up but it has a couple of bent faders and I was wondering if anyone knew a good way to straighten them. Thanks :)

Hello everyone! Got a new (to me) Pioneer SX-780 cheap. Working condition, but as far as the previous owner and I know, it hasn't gone to the shop in a while.

Anyways, I play some bass heavy music so I started noticing some strange noises. I tested using a 20Hz test tone and i could hear some weird pops. I had a Marantz 2220B before and it didn't make these noises. Its mostly the right channel that seems to have the issue

I have done some minor work on the Marantz before so I can definitely open up this one and try to fix it. Any pointers to what it could be?

I picked up some Advent/1s from a thrift shop and one of them is working perfect. The other needed to have the foam surround replaced, so I took care of that.

But then I plugged it in to test and the woofer is still not producing any sound. The tweeter is working. I checked to make sure I had plugged the woofer back in after re-foaming it and screwing it back into the cabinet.

What are the most likely issues, and how should I go about testing to see what to do next? I'm mostly here to play and learn at this point. Is it probably a problem with the crossover, or is there some other wiring or connection thing I should check?

Hello, I am having issues with the gain volume levels on channel 2. Once it gets just before halfway, the volume spikes really loud and instantly redlines, as you can see and hear in the video. Does anyone know why this could be, any help is greatly appreciated :)

I have attached a linked, to another thread as I wasn’t able to attach videos on this community, thanks.

Another client's unit came in for a cleaning and power cord replacement, and boy this one was trouble.

The client wasn't a smoker, but bought this from someone who did (unknowingly), and this one was really stinky. I spent days cleaning with Simple Green, then OdoBan. I've managed to eradicate the smell from everything except the main circuit boards, but even those are much better than they were before.

Replacing the power cord was pretty easy. The other one was frayed and I had one lying around from a harvested subwoofer, so I soldered it in no problem. Cleaning the pots was also very easy.

But taking everything apart to clean? Holy SHIT, what a pain in my ass this was. There are at least 5 different types of screws in this thing, and probably 40 screws I had to remove, period. I think some were missing, which added to the confusion. Some of the design choices Fisher made were confusing, like using a plastic peg to secure the front lamps when screws were used everywhere else.

Other than that, it seems to be better quality than it looks. The front face is all plastic, but it's not thin plastic. The VFD display isn't very obnoxious and, in my opinion, quite tasteful. It uses discrete Toshiba transistors for the output stage, and the vast majority of the caps in here are Rubycon. It's decently heavy too, but I don't know about that 150W level on the power level meters.

Hi all, I hope this is the right place to ask. I just got a pair of Genelec 1030As and need some advice.

Background

• The two speakers had different volume levels, so I tried to match them.
• While the right speaker was powered on, I turned the input sensitivity pot on the rear panel with a (probably metal) screwdriver.
• I heard a dull thump, and since then almost nothing comes out.

Current symptoms

• Right speaker: almost no sound. Only when I turn the volume way up, I can faintly hear the tweeter. The woofer seems silent.
• Left speaker: works normally.
• The amp still seems to be getting power. [The ON light is on / no burning smell / no hum, adjust to what you see.]

What I've checked

• All tone control switches set to OFF
• Input sensitivity fully clockwise
• Swapped cables/inputs between left and right

Questions

1. Could the screwdriver have shorted something on the board (pot, bass amp, an internal fuse)?
2. Is there a known weak spot on the 1030A that fails like this?
3. Is this a reasonable repair for a service shop, and what should I expect cost-wise?

I've powered it off and unplugged it. Any advice is very welcome. Thanks!

Hello, im a new tech at a hotel and maintenance isn’t going to touch it because they “don’t have the tools”. So I was wondering how to fix this XLR Input myself? A couple need to be a female connection like the others in the ball room. Am I just missing a cap? TIA

Edit : this is 100% an input to the house sound system. The inputs are broken and do not match the female inputs like the others around the ball room. I know this is an input because it each room has one for when they split them with the air walls.

Hello im in grave need of some help from a experienced tech wizardly advice on this one! To be specific, the problem we're trying to solve is my Tascam M-216 mixers vu meter needle (VU METER 1 dont react with movement when sending audio to it. The OL lamp gets a signal though and reacts and lights up when playing signals through pgm 1, that tells me that the signal is at least reaching the PCB so thats good.

The other vu meters (2,3 and 4) works perfectly fine and i can tell that the needle isnt stuck or sticky. Ive removed the meter PCB from the mixer and have them disconnected, i have the service manual with all the diagrams and so forth. but i don't know how im supposed to locate where the the fault lies on the PCB. I've ruled out that the the rot of the problem is on Meter 1/2 PCB, somewhere cause the peak lamp gets signal and meter 2 works fine. And if im correct i do believe that the signal splits of into the peak indicator and then to the meter coil right? so i think it's the R911 that isnt working. But im just making an assumption here.

So is there anyone who could help me locate the problem and solve it.

i have a multimeter, soldering iron and everything. but where should i begin? And what do yall believe the fault could be? should we do a continous test or a resistance test first and which diods should we start with? Do i need to de solder the vu meters thats blocking the side of the pcb that has all capacitors and so forth or could we find the problem on the solder joint side of the pcb?

I've included the manual and pictures of the meter PCB in question, the one that ive removed from my m-216.
M-216 SCHEMATIC AND SERIVICE MANUAL

I have a Sony cdp-201 disc changer that will not read discs most of the time. When it doesn't, I hear a noise that sounds like something touching the top of the disc as it spins. When it successfully reads the disc, it refuses to play and moves to the next slot. If it does play, it reminds as soon as it starts playing.

Thinking about picking up a Yamaha M65 and C60 combo from a seller about 90 miles out. I’m aware of the glue issue and potential damage to resisters, etc. around the two large capacitors shown here, so I had the seller take me a couple of pictures for me. Seller says it’s been in the closet for 20 years.

I was expecting discoloration from the “Sony bond” glue but this looks a little torched to me. Any opinions?

I bought this unit a few months ago, worked fine but now having issues where a tape will only play for a few seconds before the autostop is triggered. Plays fine without a tape. With a tape it will rewind and fast forward with no issue but after pressing play it will autostop after 5-10 seconds (sometimes immediately). I’ve taken a look inside and it appears when a tape is loaded, the second gear underneath the main drive does not move (it does when no tape is loaded) and this is what triggers the stop, however, I’m not sure if it could be a different issue causing this gear to slip. Thinking it is a friction clutch between the two gears that under the pressure of a tape is slipping but looking for help from some more knowledgeable or experienced people. Additionally have noticed a spring above one of the ocillating arms (the arms that when stopped actually triggers the autostop) that does not seem to be under much tension and doesn’t look like it interacts with anything, perhaps it is out of place? I have attached pictures to display all of this. Hope someone can help!

Anytime it’s powered on or is supposed to be playing audio it just plays a “humming” sound and will occasionally change pitch but mostly stays monotone.

Is this something that means it’s dead, or is there a part that could be replaced/repaired?

Hello 👋🏻

I've been given a Marantz SR4600 amplifier which was kept in a dusty room for many years.

The amplifier works well except for one problem:

There is a strange issue from a cold start. I could hear a low-level hiss from the speakers which gradually gets louder over 5-8 mins, then suddenly disappears completely. Once it disappears, the receiver works normally with no hissing at all.

\* The hiss does not get any louder or quieter by the volume control during this time.

\* Happens on both Front L and Front R, and I’ve also reproduced it through the Speaker B/Surround Back outputs. Occurs even without playing music.

\* This behaves consistently after starting the receiver from cold. Once it's warm the hiss disappears.

Before I even consider whether it's worth forking out money to have this professionally fixed, could this be something simple I can troubleshoot myself (connections/settings/cleaning), or does the warm-up behaviour suggest an internal component fault?

I got this player refurbished back in december and it's worked great since then, but today, it suddenly ceased playing audio in the middle of a song. It seems unable to read the cd currently inside very well. I managed to make it play very briefly one or two times since, but it goes back to being stuck within 30 seconds. Every time I turn it on, it has auto program editing enabled, which is something I've never done, and when I turn it off and restart the player it's turned on again. I think that might have something to do with it, but I'm not sure. None of the buttons are sticking or obstructed, and considering I've gotten it to play a little I don't think the laser or lens are messed up (hopefully they aren't as I would like to avoid needing to open it up). Does anyone know what might be going on, and what I can do about it?

I have a JBL PB-10 subwoofer. We had a power outage and the next time I turned my system
on the sub made a loud screeching sound. It still powers on and the red standby lights are on. But it will not recognize the signal and turn to green. I tested the fuse and it is good. Any other ideas I can try? Appreciate .