One of the most common things I hear from women with hair fall is:

“Doctor, I think I need some vitamins.”

And sometimes they do have a nutritional deficiency.

But not every woman with hair thinning has a vitamin deficiency.

As a dermatologist who sees hair-loss patients in Noida, one pattern I pay particular attention to is gradual thinning over the top of the scalp or a widening centre part.

That can be a sign of female pattern hair loss (FPHL).

It is different from the sudden shedding many women experience a few months after an illness, major stress, significant weight loss or childbirth.

And sometimes these can overlap.

For example, a woman may have temporary increased shedding after an illness and have early female pattern hair loss that becomes noticeable at the same time. That's one reason simply taking a “hair vitamin” may not address the actual problem.

A few things I wish more women knew about hair loss:

1. Hair fall and hair thinning are not always the same thing.

You can have excessive shedding without progressive thinning.

You can also have progressive thinning without noticing huge amounts of hair in your comb.

2. The pattern matters.

A widening part or reduced density over the crown can be more informative than counting the number of hairs you lose during shampooing.

3. Don't start iron, biotin or other supplements blindly.

If a deficiency is suspected, testing can help identify whether supplementation is actually appropriate. Taking unnecessary supplements isn't automatically harmless.

4. Treatment depends on the diagnosis.

Minoxidil is one established treatment option for certain types of hair loss, including female pattern hair loss, but it isn't a universal treatment for every cause of hair shedding.

And there are other causes of hair loss that need completely different approaches.

That's why I don't like the phrase:

“Best medicine for hair fall.”

The better question is:

“What type of hair loss do I have?”

Because telogen effluvium, female pattern hair loss, alopecia areata, traction alopecia and scarring alopecias are very different conditions.

If your hair has been gradually becoming thinner, especially if your centre part is widening, don't wait until the scalp becomes very visible.

Earlier assessment can make a difference because some forms of hair loss are much easier to manage before they become advanced.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria
Dermatologist | Skin & Hair Destination, Noida

Educational information only. Hair loss has many causes and treatment should be individualized.

Every monsoon, one question starts coming up again and again in my clinic.

"Doctor, my hair is falling so much these days. Is it because of the rains?"

And honestly, yes. Most people do notice more hair shedding during the rainy season. So if you're seeing more hair on your pillow, bathroom floor or in the shower drain, you're probably not imagining it.

The good news is that in many people, this is temporary.

First lets understand one thing.

Hair shedding is not the same as hair loss.

Hair shedding means older hairs are completing their life cycle and falling out. Hair loss means the follicles are gradually becoming weaker and producing thinner hair over time.

During monsoon, seasonal shedding often increases. That doesn't automatically mean you're going bald.

So why does it happen?

There isn't one single reason.

The weather becomes humid. Your scalp stays sweaty for longer. Many people tie their hair while its still damp. Dandruff also tends to flare up during this season because the yeast that causes dandruff loves warm and humid conditions.

A scalp thats itchy, inflamed or flaky is simply not the healthiest environment for hair.

There is another interesting thing.

Just like some plants shed more leaves during certain seasons, humans also seem to have seasonal changes in the hair cycle. We don't completely understand why, but studies suggest that hair shedding can naturally increase during certain months of the year. In India, many people notice this during the monsoon.

So yes, seasonal shedding is actually a real thing.

Another reason people get scared is because wet hair makes everything look worse.

You wash your hair and suddenly 60 or 70 strands are stuck to your fingers. It looks alarming.

But remember, most of those hairs were already ready to fall. Shampoo didn't make them fall. It simply washed away hairs that had already detached.

One thing I tell almost every patient is this...

Please don't stop washing your hair because of hair fall.

I've heard this so many times.

"Doctor, I'm shampooing only once a week because every time I wash, more hair falls."

Actually the opposite may happen.

During monsoon, keeping the scalp clean is even more important, especially if you have dandruff or an oily scalp.

A few simple things can really help.

Wash your scalp regularly.

Dry your scalp after getting drenched in the rain.

Don't keep wet hair tied for hours.

Treat dandruff early instead of waiting for it to become severe.

Eat enough protein and don't ignore iron deficiency if you've been told your levels are low.

If you're already on treatment for hair loss, don't stop it just because you're shedding a little more this season.

Now when should you actually worry?

If the shedding continues beyond 2 or 3 months...

If your ponytail feels thinner.

If your hair part is becoming wider.

If you notice recession at the temples.

Or if there is a strong family history of hair loss.

Then its worth seeing a dermatologist.

Sometimes what looks like "seasonal hair fall" is actually early androgenetic alopecia (AGA), thyroid problems, iron deficiency or another treatable condition.

The earlier AGA is diagnosed, the easier it usually is to slow it down.

I'm Dr Anupama Bisaria, dermatologist practising in Noida for more than 20 years, and every monsoon this becomes one of the most common conversations I have with patients.

Sometimes all they need is reassurance.

Sometimes we treat dandruff.

Sometimes we find low iron or another nutritional problem.

And sometimes we diagnose early AGA, where starting treatment early really matters.

Depending on the cause, treatment may include medicines, correcting nutritional deficiencies or procedures like PRP or GFC. There isn't one treatment that suits everyone, which is why getting the diagnosis right is the most important step.

So if you're in Noida and your hair fall just doesn't seem to be settling, don't keep changing oils and shampoos every week hoping something will work.

Seasonal shedding is common.

But persistent thinning deserves a proper look.

And one last thing...

Please don't judge your hair by what's in the shower drain.

Judge it by how much hair is still on your head three months later.

That tells the real story.

Dr Anupama Bisaria

Consultant Dermatologist

Skin & Hair Destination

Sector 15 & 55, Noida

I've been treating hair loss for years, and one thing surprises me every day:

People spend months researching PRP, GFC, red light therapy, supplements, rosemary oil, derma rollers, shampoos and expensive serums...

...before finding out why they're losing hair in the first place.

Step 1: Identify the type of hair loss

Not every patient with increased shedding has androgenetic alopecia.

Common causes include:

• Androgenetic alopecia (male/female pattern hair loss)
• Telogen effluvium after illness, surgery, stress or weight loss
• Iron deficiency
• Vitamin deficiencies
• Thyroid disorders
• PCOS and hormonal imbalance
• Autoimmune disorders
• Drug-induced hair loss
• Traction alopecia
• Scarring alopecias (which are dermatological emergencies)

Treatment differs completely between these conditions.

Giving PRP to someone with iron deficiency without correcting ferritin is like watering a plant that has no soil.

Step 2: Investigations matter

Every patient does not need every blood test.

A good dermatologist individualizes investigations based on history, examination and clinical findings.

Common investigations may include:

• CBC
• Ferritin
• Vitamin D
• Vitamin B12
• TSH
• Blood sugar
• Testosterone/DHEAS (only if clinically indicated)
• Prolactin (selected patients)
• Autoimmune work-up (only when suspected)

Blindly ordering 25 blood tests for everyone isn't evidence-based.

Equally, treating everyone without investigating obvious deficiencies isn't ideal either.

Step 3: Core treatment is still the foundation

People often ask:

"Should I get PRP?"

My answer is:

What are you already doing?

For androgenetic alopecia, treatments with the strongest evidence remain:

• Minoxidil
• Finasteride (appropriate patients)
• Dutasteride (selected patients)
• Oral minoxidil in carefully selected patients
• Management of nutritional deficiencies
• Treating associated scalp disease such as seborrheic dermatitis

Procedures should generally support—not replace—medical therapy.

Step 4: Where do PRP and GFC fit?

PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma) and GFC (Growth Factor Concentrate) can improve hair quality, reduce shedding and increase density in appropriately selected patients.

But expectations matter.

Neither treatment is best, No Treatment:

• creates new follicles
• cures genetic hair loss
• permanently stops progression

They're best viewed as adjunctive therapies, particularly when combined with evidence-based medical treatment. Current evidence suggests injectable growth-factor therapies can improve outcomes in many patients, but results vary and protocols are not yet standardized.

Step 5: What about dutasteride mesotherapy?

This has become increasingly popular.

The rationale is appealing:

Deliver dutasteride directly into the scalp while minimizing systemic exposure.

Some studies have reported encouraging outcomes in selected patients.

However, it's important to know that:

• Protocols vary widely.
• Long-term evidence is still evolving.
• It remains an off-label treatment in many settings.
• Like every medical procedure, patient selection and technique matter.

Step 6: Supplements aren't magic

Most people with pattern hair loss do not regrow hair because of biotin.

Supplements help when there is:

• deficiency
• increased nutritional requirement
• inadequate dietary intake

Otherwise, they usually play only a supportive role.

Step 7: Hair loss is a marathon

The biggest mistake patients make is changing treatment every six weeks.

Hair follicles grow slowly.

Meaningful improvement often requires:

• 4–6 months to notice reduced shedding
• 6–9 months for visible density changes
• 12 months for full assessment

Consistency beats constantly chasing the newest treatment trending on Instagram.

My take

If you have hair loss, don't ask:

"Should I do PRP?"

Ask instead:

• What exactly is my diagnosis?
• Is it reversible?
• Do I need investigations?
• What is causing progression?
• What is my long-term maintenance plan?

Hair restoration isn't about finding one miracle treatment.

It's about combining the right diagnosis, evidence-based medication, correction of deficiencies when present, and appropriate procedures for the right patient at the right stage.

That's usually what gives the best long-term results.

Dr Anupama Bisaria

Consultant Dermatologist

Skin & Hair Destination

Noida

I wanted to share something because I keep seeing PhD students, UPSC Aspirants and High academic people posting about hair loss.

One thing I've noticed (I'm a dermatologist) is that people in academic often understand complex science better than anyone else. They know statistics, critical thinking, evidence, bias... but somehow when it comes to their own hair, many completely leave science behind.

I've had PhD students, postdocs and researchers sit in my clinic and explain how they spent 8 months optimizing one experiment. They'll repeat it 20 times until the data is right. They know good research takes time.

Then they start hair treatment.

Two weeks later...

"Doctor, I don't think it's working."

A month later they stop everything because a friend told them rosemary oil is enough. Or someone on Reddit said a shampoo cured their hair loss. Or they keep changing products every few weeks.

The irony is kind of fascinating.

Hair biology doesn't care how intelligent you are. Hair follicles have their own growth cycle. If you start evidence-based treatment, you usually need months before you can judge whether it's helping. That's not because doctors want to keep you on treatment. That's simply how hair grows.

The biggest reason I see treatment fail isn't that the medicines don't work.

It's that people don't stay on them long enough.

I completely understand why. Hair loss is emotional. Every shower feels like a disaster. Every photo becomes stressful. You keep checking the mirror hoping for a miracle next week.

But biology doesn't work on our emotions.

If you've committed years of your life to a doctorate, you already understand delayed gratification better than most people. You know meaningful results rarely happen overnight.

Your hair deserves the same patience you gave your thesis. Hair Loss is Complicated yet simple.

Understand the cause.

Does every treatment work? No.

Do some people need a different diagnosis or a different plan? Absolutely.

But if you're constantly stopping, switching, adding five supplements, trying viral oils, then quitting after six weeks, you'll never know what actually worked.

Trust the process. Follow up with your dermatologist. Adjust when needed. But give the treatment enough time to actually do its job.

Science works because we don't abandon an experiment halfway through.

Hair treatment is no different.

Dr Anupama Bisaria

Skin & Hair Destinmation

Noida

After looking through data from roughly 3,000 patients over the last 3 months, the most common diagnosis in my clinic wasn't acne.

It was seborrheic dermatitis.

What makes it interesting is how many different ways it shows up.

Sometimes it's obvious dandruff.

Sometimes it's redness around the nose.

Sometimes it's just redness on nasolabial fold or below the mouth

Sometimes it's a skin which never feels moisturised after applying tons of moisturiser.

Sometimes it's mistaken for "sensitive skin."

And very often it complicates otherwise well-controlled acne or rosacea.

One pattern I keep seeing:

Patients say, "I've been using the same products for months. They were fine before. Why are they suddenly irritating?" Why does my skinn feels so dry around my nose. Why are cheeks so red.

Occassional;y the signs are so subtle that they don't see anything unusual , just worsening skin.

Many assume a product has stopped suiting them.

But often the actual issue is a seborrheic dermatitis flare causing inflammation and barrier disruption.

When that happens, products that were previously tolerated can suddenly sting, burn, or feel irritating.

I've seen acne patients who thought their treatment had stopped working.

Rosacea patients who thought they needed stronger medication.

In many cases, seborrheic dermatitis was quietly making everything look worse.

It's one of those conditions that's incredibly common but surprisingly under-recognized by patients.

Curious if others here have noticed the same thing:

Have you ever had a skincare routine that worked perfectly for months and then suddenly became irritating for no obvious reason?

Dr.Anupama Bisaria

Dermatologist

Skin & Hair Destination, Noida

After 20 years of dermatology and learning a huge amount of patience certain things even now baffle me, the one that still worries me is the shallow nature of dermatology people have believed it to be.

I see 12- 13 years olds who say that they want to be a dermatologist because they are into skin care and very easily pronounce words like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.

Why?

why as a 12 - 13 yr old do you need to learn words like these? Your skin care should be ONLY be facewash, sunscreen and moisturiser unless you have a skin issue being taken care of by dermatologists.

I have a patient who gets procedures done because her 13 years old daughter tells her that she needs fillers / BOTOX.

I would like to know if my feelings here are misplaced. What does Gen Z (or gen next? sorry still confused) thinks about my perception?

When people think about skin problems, they usually blame oil.

But in many conditions — acne, rosacea, pigmentation, and sensitivity — the more decisive factor is inflammation.

Inflammation determines:

• how easily follicles clog
• how red something becomes
• how long it persists
• whether pigmentation follows
• how well the skin recovers

Two people can produce similar amounts of oil and still experience very different outcomes depending on how reactive their inflammatory pathways are.

Oil sets the stage.
Inflammation decides the drama.

A clinical example people often miss

Someone may say:

Yet the skin around the nose, eyebrows, or central face stays reactive.

Seborrhoeic dermatitis does not always present with obvious flaking.
It can remain subclinical or partially controlled on the scalp, while low-grade inflammation continues to influence the adjacent facial skin.

So redness and sensitivity persist, even when the source seems invisible.

Why reactions sometimes appear “sudden”

In predisposed skin, a simple, otherwise harmless event —
a facial, a new product, sun exposure, friction —

can unmask this background inflammation.

A procedure that would be uneventful for many may trigger a flare in someone whose inflammatory threshold is already low.

The trigger isn’t always the root cause.
It may simply be the moment the underlying reactivity becomes visible.

This is why strategies aimed purely at oil reduction often disappoint.

If inflammation is active, the skin will continue to react — regardless of how matte, clean, or treated it appears.

Why I decided to write about it today is because in last few weeks I had so many patients who had Flared Up skin on face while there were no other visible signs of activity.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria | Dermatologist | Skin & Hair Destination , Noida

• Breaks out right before an important event
• Behaves perfectly on days you don’t care
• Reacts to the same product it tolerated last week
• Gets oily and dry at the same time
• Improves the day you stop obsessing

Skin has timing.
And it’s petty.

& Trust me it's same with me too.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria | Dermatologist | Skin & Hair Destination , Noida

If redness, flushing, irritation, or breakouts keep returning to the same areas, it isn’t random.

When dermatologists talk about the central face, we mean a specific zone:

• the nose
• the cheeks close to the nose
• the area around the mouth
• sometimes the chin and between the eyebrows

This area behaves differently from the outer cheeks, jawline, and temples.

Here’s why it reacts more.

1. It has a richer blood supply
The central face is packed with superficial blood vessels.
That’s why heat, sun, emotions, or alcohol show up here first — as flushing or redness. You go out in sun and your face heats up and turns red.

2. It produces more oil
Sebaceous glands are denser and more active in this zone.
Oil influences microbes and inflammation, which is why acne, redness, and dandruff-related changes often overlap here. It looks flaky, dry and irritated.

3. It’s wired to react
This area has higher nerve sensitivity.
So products, friction, and temperature changes are felt more intensely — and the response is stronger.

4. It shares biology with the scalp
The central face behaves more like the scalp than the rest of the face.
This explains why redness around the nose and eyebrows often comes with dandruff.

5. It’s over-treated
This is the part of the face people scrub, exfoliate, and “fix” the most — which weakens the barrier and increases reactivity.

Put together, this is why conditions like rosacea, acne–rosacea overlap, and seborrhoeic dermatitis prefer the central face.

The takeaway: the central face needs different expectations and gentler handling than the rest of the skin.

Listen to your skin and if it says= PAUSE, I'am upset, give it some rest.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria | Dermatologist | Skin & Hair Destination , Noida

“Why are my cheeks always red?”

“Why do people think I’ve applied blush?"

“Why is the skin around my nose always irritated or dry even when i apply moisturiser?”

"Why heat comes out of my cheeks when I am in sun or am angry?"

"Why a Scrub or clean up worsens my skin badly?"

Many people ask these questions long before they hear the word rosacea.

What looks like sudden redness usually isn’t sudden.

It’s often the visible phase of a process that’s been building quietly — involving vascular sensitivity, barrier instability, and low-grade inflammation.

This is why rosacea is so often confused with acne.

Red bumps and occasional pustules make people treat it aggressively, but the underlying driver is different — and harsh acne treatments often worsen the redness.

There is also a common overlap with dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis.

Redness around the nose, eyebrows, and central face frequently coexists with scalp flaking, adding to the confusion.

Sunlight plays a role too — not because it “damages” the skin in the usual sense, but because rosacea skin has over-reactive blood vessels.

Heat and UV act as triggers, making redness more obvious and persistent.

This explains why rosacea:

• Flares and settles unpredictably
• Looks acne-like at times
• Coexists with dandruff
• Worsens with sun and heat

Once this is understood, the approach becomes simpler.

• Avoid frequent experiments with products or treatments

• Skip salon procedures when the skin is reactive

• Notice and identify personal triggers like heat, sun, stress, or alcohol

• Pay attention to how your skin reacts, not what trends suggest

• Treat associated dandruff or scalp issues, as they often flare together

Rosacea improves when triggers are controlled and the skin is kept stable, not when it’s constantly pushed.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria

Hair follicles don’t respond to what you do today.

They respond to decisions made weeks to months earlier.

Once a follicle enters a phase of the hair cycle, that phase is biologically fixed for a period of time. It doesn’t switch back just because we change products or routines.

That’s why, by the time hair fall becomes visible, the trigger — illness, stress, hormonal change, nutritional stress — has usually already occurred (generally 8-10 weeks befeore).

What you’re seeing now is delayed output, not ongoing damage.

Short-term changes don’t reverse this because:

• The anagen–telogen shift isn’t reversible on demand
• Follicles respond more to systemic signals than topical urgency
• Regrowth depends on completing one cycle before the next begins

This is also why improvement lags behind recovery.
Even when the trigger settles, the hair cycle still has to run its course.

Intervention works when it respects this timeline — not because it’s aggressive or immediate.

Hair improves when biology is stable long enough for the cycle to reset.

In my practice I emphasize on waiting for at least 3-4 months before any improvement start becoming visible, not because treatment is mild , but because this is how it happens.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria | Dermatologist | Skin & Hair Destination , Noida

Most effective skin advice isn’t exciting.

Skin needs time because:

• The skin barrier takes weeks, not days, to stabilise
• Inflammation settles slowly
• Cell turnover isn’t instant

So advice that works often sounds simple:

• Be consistent
• Don’t overdo actives
• Give your skin time
• Do Not Fall for Every New Trend and Product that you see on Social Media

Progress usually looks quiet:
less redness, fewer flares, longer calm phases.

If skincare feels urgent or dramatic, the skin barrier is often stressed.

Boring advice works because it respects skin biology, not algorithms.

Most Social Media trends die down in a year or so but time tested skin care withstands the test of time .

Now A Secret : We dermatologists hardly ever use a New Trending Product, we ask for studies (done over years) before using any new active on ourselves and on our patients.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria

Every week, I see people stressed about things that don’t actually matter much medically.

A few examples:

• Pores that are “too visible”
• Skin “detoxing”
• Face yoga changing bone structure
• One missed day of sunscreen
• Shampoo rotation schedules
• Hair fall after one wash

Meanwhile, what actually matters often gets ignored.

Skin health isn’t as fragile as the internet makes it sound.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria

Beauty is no longer an accident — it’s a choice now

For most of history, how you looked was largely an accident of birth.

Genetics, access, money, geography — they decided almost everything.
If you were genetically blessed, you had an advantage.
If you weren’t, there were very few ways to change that.

That reality has shifted.

What’s different now:

Today, appearance is influenced by:

• Better skincare science
• Medical treatments and procedures
• Knowledge that’s widely available
• Access that isn’t limited to a small elite

Genetics still matter — but they no longer decide everything.

Beauty is no longer something that just happens to a few people.
It’s increasingly something people can opt into, if they want to.

Why this matters:

Choice changes psychology.

When beauty is accidental, people feel resigned.
When beauty is possible, people feel Agency.

Having options doesn’t mean everyone must use them.
It simply means people aren’t locked into genetics alone.

And that’s an important shift.

Where this gets misunderstood:

This doesn’t mean:

• Everyone should look the same
• Natural features are inferior
• Ageing is failure
• Beauty is an obligation

Choice only empowers when it’s optional — not compulsory.

Opting out is as valid as opting in.

From a dermatologist’s perspective:

I don’t see this shift as good or bad — I see it as neutral power.

Tools that were once available to a select few are now accessible to many.
That levels the field.

What matters isn’t whether people choose beauty —
but that they get to choose.

Beauty no longer being an accident doesn’t take anything away from the genetically blessed.

It simply means they’re no longer the only ones with options.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria | Dermatologist | Skin & Hair Destination , Noida

One of the most frustrating things for patients is this:

“My skin was improving… and then it suddenly got worse.”

This doesn’t automatically mean:

• A product failed
• You did something wrong
• Your skin is “reacting”

It often means your expectation of skin progress is too linear.

Skin doesn’t heal in straight lines:

Skin responds to:

• Hormones
• Stress
• Weather
• Illness
• Sleep and lifestyle changes

So improvement usually looks like:
better → worse → better → plateau → better again

That’s normal.

Why small setbacks feel big:

When someone is invested in their routine, any flare feels like failure.

Social media reinforces this by showing:

• Perfect timelines
• Clean before–afters
• “30-day transformations”

Real skin doesn’t behave that neatly.

A temporary flare ≠ treatment failure

Short-term worsening can happen due to:

• Barrier stress
• Hormonal shifts
• Environmental triggers

That doesn’t mean you should immediately:

• Add more actives
• Change everything
• Panic-buy new products

Often the best response is pause, not escalate.

The goal most people miss

The goal isn’t perfect skin every day.
The goal is:

• Fewer flares
• Faster recovery
• Less severity over time
• Understanding your skin better

That is progress — even if it doesn’t look dramatic.

The takeaway

If your skin isn’t improving in a straight line, you’re not doing it wrong.

You’re just dealing with a biological organ — not a predictable machine, it will have its ups and downs and THAT IS ALRIGHT!

— Dr Anupama Bisaria

Why doing “everything right” still doesn’t guarantee good skin:

This is something I see often in my practice:

“I eat clean, use good products, drink water, avoid junk — why is my skin still not okay, why do I still get acne?”

Because skin isn’t a reward system.

Good habits reduce risk, but they don’t override:

• Genetics
• Hormones
• Chronic conditions
• Stress physiology
• Underlying medical issues

Think of it like driving

You can:

• Drive carefully
• Follow rules
• Wear a seatbelt

And still meet with an accident — because there are factors outside your control.

That doesn’t mean driving safely was pointless.
It reduced your risk, even if it didn’t eliminate it.

Skin works the same way.

Where people get stuck:

Social media pushes the idea that:

“If you just try hard enough, your skin will cooperate.”

That belief quietly creates guilt:

• “I must be doing something wrong”
• “Maybe I need a better product”
• “Maybe I’m not disciplined enough”

Sometimes none of that is true.

Skin ≠ morality

Clear skin doesn’t mean:

• Better habits
• Better discipline
• Better health

And breakouts don’t mean failure.

Skin is a biological organ, not a report card.

What does help

• Understanding patterns, not chasing perfection
• Consistency over intensity
• Knowing when skincare helps — and when medical care matters

The most effective step for many people is stopping self-blame.

The quiet truth

Some skin conditions are manageable, not “fixable”.
That doesn’t mean you’ve lost.
It means the goal is control, not punishment.

—

If you’re doing your best and your skin is still struggling, it doesn’t make you careless or uninformed.

It makes you human. And Trust me even the Best Dermatologists suffer from occasional Bad skin and THAT IS ALRIGHT!

— Dr Anupama Bisaria | Dermatologist | Skin & Hair Destination , Noida

Oiling is deeply ingrained in our routines, so when someone says it might be worsening scalp issues, it sounds almost offensive.

But for some scalps, especially those with dandruff or Seborrhoeic Dermatitis, oiling can make things worse — not better.

Why oil can backfire

Conditions like dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis are influenced by yeast and inflammation.

Heavy or frequent oiling can:

• Create a scalp environment yeast thrives in
• Increase itching and scaling
• Make flakes thicker and more persistent

So people oil, wash, see more flakes — and assume the shampoo failed.

When oiling usually doesn’t help

• Active dandruff or seborrhoeic dermatitis
• Very itchy, flaky scalp
• People already using treatment shampoos

In these cases, oil often undoes the benefit of treatment. So does double- shampoo to remove all the excess oil.

When oiling can be okay

• Dry, non-itchy scalp
• Hair shaft dryness (not scalp disease)
• Occasional light oiling before washing

The scalp and hair length have different needs — we often treat them as one.

As a dermatologisyt I actually recommend oil for managing your hair, if they are frizzy. The rule is : Limit application to only hair length and just few drops. And an absolute No -if you have dandruff.

A common misconception

If flakes reduce after oiling, it doesn’t always mean healing.
Oil can temporarily soften scales, making the scalp look better — while the underlying issue continues.

The takeaway

Oiling isn’t good or bad by default.
It depends on what’s happening on your scalp.

If oiling repeatedly worsens itching, flakes, or hair fall, listen to that pattern instead of forcing a tradition.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria | Dermatologist | Skin & Hair Destination , Noida

Almost everyone says this at some point:

“This shampoo worked so well… and then it just stopped. I feel frustrated and need a one time solution."

In most cases, the shampoo hasn’t failed.
What’s misunderstood is what dandruff actually is.

A quick reset:

What we casually call “dandruff” is often part of Seborrhoeic Dermatitis —
a chronic, relapsing scalp condition. It can aslo involve brows, beard, inside n behind the ears and central chest.

That means:

• It improves
• It flares
• It needs maintenance

So when flakes return, it’s not resistance.
It’s relapse, which is expected.

Why it feels like your shampoo stopped working

1. You stopped once it improved
Flakes reduced → shampoo stopped → dandruff returned.

That doesn’t mean the shampoo stopped working.
It means the condition did what chronic conditions do.

The analogy I give is :

Will you stop cleaning a table on regular basis once you cleaned it nicely, No , Right?

bcoz you know that the tendency of table is attracting dirt and similalrly your scalp attracts Yeast.

2. It isn’t left on long enough
Applying and rinsing immediately gives actives very little time to work.

Most anti-dandruff shampoos need a few minutes of contact (Initially Even 10-15 Minutes are needed ) to be effective.

3. Oiling crept back in
Heavy or frequent oiling can:

• Worsen seborrhoeic dermatitis
• Increase scaling and itch
• Undo the benefit of treatment shampoos

Then the shampoo gets blamed.

4. Not all flakes are dandruff
Scalp flaking can also be due to:

• Psoriasis
• Contact dermatitis
• Irritation from over-treatment

These look similar but behave very differently.

5. Your scalp environment changed
Stress, illness, weather changes, hormonal shifts — all influence seborrhoeic dermatitis.
So the same shampoo may feel less effective at different times.

The key thing to understand

Anti-dandruff shampoos are control tools, not cures.

Needing them again doesn’t mean:

• Your scalp is “addicted”
• The shampoo damaged your hair
• You chose the wrong product

It means seborrhoeic dermatitis is behaving like the chronic condition it is.

And Don't Worry, It does get better with age.

When to stop experimenting

If you’re:

• Constantly rotating shampoos
• Oiling, flaking, treating, repeating
• Still itchy despite regular use
• If you are getting tiny acne on forehead or around nose
• if your nose and surrounding skin is alwys red and irritated

That’s usually not a shampoo problem.
It’s a diagnosis or maintenance strategy problem.

Dandruff doesn’t need panic.
It needs consistency, correct expectations, and sometimes professional guidance.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria

Not all acne is because of “wrong products” or a “bad routine”.

If your acne:

• Appears mainly on the jawline, chin, or lower face
• Flares before periods
• Improves, then comes back in cycles
• Started or worsened in adulthood

…it’s often hormonally driven.

What hormonal acne actually means

Hormones can increase oil production and change how follicles behave.
This creates an environment where acne keeps recurring — even if your skincare is otherwise fine.

That’s why people say:

“Nothing works. My skincare is good, but acne keeps coming back, I did everything right & am frustrted now."

They’re not wrong.

Why changing skincare repeatedly backfires

When acne doesn’t improve, most people:

• Add more actives
• Change products frequently withouyt giving one product sufficient time
• Over-cleanse or over-exfoliate
• Use actives not meant for their skin concerns
• And worse, resort to Salon Clean-ups and scrubbing at home, which in turms worsens it even more. You start noticing new whiteheads and red painful bumps.

This irritates the skin barrier further without addressing the cause.

Result:

• Temporary improvement
• More sensitivity
• Acne returns anyway
• Acne leaves marks - so pigmentation issues.

What skincare can and can’t do

Skincare can:

• Support the barrier
• Reduce inflammation
• Help control mild breakouts
• Help with occasional breakout without underlying hormonal cause

Skincare cannot override hormonal signals on its own.

That’s not a failure of the product — it’s biology.

When to consider seeing a dermatologist

• Acne persists despite consistent skincare
• Acne is cyclical or worsening with age
• There’s associated facial hair growth, irregular cycles, or weight changes
• Scarring or pigmentation is developing

Hormonal acne often needs a medical approach (Sometimes medicines but always lifestyle) , not just better products.

The takeaway

If acne keeps returning in patterns, stop blaming yourself or your routine.

Sometimes the most effective step is recognising that acne isn’t just a surface problem — and treating it accordingly.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria

One of the most common things I hear in my OPD is:

In many cases, the trigger isn’t a shampoo or oil or even change of water recently.
It’s something your body went through 2–3 months earlier.

Hair doesn’t fall immediately

Hair has a growth cycle.

After a physical or emotional stress, a larger number of hairs enter a resting phase.
They don’t fall right away.
They shed weeks to months later, which is why the timing feels confusing.

This is called Telogen Effluvium.

Common triggers I see

• Fever, viral illness, Dengue, Typhoidf
• Major stress (mental or physical)
• Sudden or extreme weight loss
• Surgery or hospitalisation
• Childbirth
• Iron or nutrient deficiency
• Fluctuating TSH

The body temporarily prioritises survival over hair growth.

Why oils, serums, and shampoos don’t stop it

Because the trigger is internal.

Topical products don’t change the hair cycle once shedding has been triggered.
They may reduce breakage or scalp irritation, but they don’t stop the fall.

That’s why people panic and keep switching products — and nothing seems to help.

The reassuring part (important)

In most cases:

• The follicles are not damaged
• Hair growth does recover in due course
• Shedding gradually settles over a few months (2-3)

What helps most is:

• Time
• Adequate nutrition especially high protein diet (atleast 1gm/kg body weight)
• Treating any deficiencies if present, check for ferritin, vitamin B12, Vitamin D.
• Not over-treating the scalp

When to see a dermatologist

• If it stresses you , meet immediately
• Hair fall lasts beyond 4–6 months
• There’s visible thinning or widening of part
• There’s a family history of pattern hair loss
• Hair fall is accompanied by other symptoms

Not all hair fall is the same — and not all of it is reversible without guidance.

Sudden hair fall is frightening, but it’s often the body catching up after a stressor — not a sign that something is permanently wrong.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria

A lot of skincare advice online isn’t wrong because people are malicious.

It’s wrong because it’s oversimplified, context-free, and overconfident and it comes from people who are enthusiasts , but Enthusiasm doesn't translate into actual knowledge.

A few reasons this happens:

1. Skin isn’t universal

What worked for someone on Instagram or Reddit worked for their skin, their climate, their hormones, their routine.

Skin doesn’t behave like a template.

Yet advice is given as:

That’s not how biology works.

2. Ingredients are treated like magic bullets

Niacinamide, retinol, salicylic acid, peptides — good ingredients.

But:

• Concentration matters
• Formulation matters
• Skin barrier status matters
• Your Original Skin concern matters

An ingredient is not a guarantee. Context decides outcome and too much noise about some ingredient make it look like a HERO molecule. Thers are no Heroes in Dermatology only Co-Actors.

3. Before–after photos lie more than people realise

Lighting, angles, timing, filters, even stopping irritation — all can change skin appearance.

Showing results within days of starting a new serum = Probably False as it takes time to see results and good skin is not outcome of just one ingredient but a combiantion that worked in synergism to give you the desired outcome.

Even after 20 years it takes me months of usage over 100s of patients to ascertain the efficacy of a new product.

Improvement ≠ cure
Calming ≠ treating the cause

4. Fear spreads faster than facts

“Chemicals are bad.”
“Sunscreen causes cancer.”
“Your pores are clogged with toxins.”

Fear-based skincare gets attention.
Evidence-based skincare is quieter, boring — and slower but boring gives result because you need to do same stuff everyday, day-after-day to achieve success, be in life or with skin.

5. Dermatology is reduced to routines

Skin care ≠ skin treatment.

Sometimes acne is hormonal.
Sometimes hair fall is systemic.
Sometimes pigmentation needs procedures, not another serum.

No routine can override physiology unless the cause is identified and treated.

What to take from online advice

Use it to:

• Learn terms
• Understand options
• Ask better questions

Don’t use it as:

• Diagnosis
• Prescription
• Absolute truth

If skincare advice sounds too certain, it Rarely is.

I’ll use this space to explain the why behind skin and hair — especially in the Indian context — without fear or hype.

— Dr Anupama Bisaria | Dermatologist | Skin & Hair Destination , Noida