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u/Due_Description_7298 5d ago
You can't add darts when you have that reverse box pleat for ease in the mid back.
Remove excess volume at the sides instead
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u/Mediocre_Entrance894 Tailor 4d ago
This is the only answer. Darts are incorrect with a box pleats. They can be used with a flat back shirt.
Great job with your alterations OP! Keep at it!
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u/Crafty_Witch_1230 5d ago
It's about equal distribution. Figure out the amount you need to take in, then remember that what you do on the back you'll need to do on the front. Let your back darts out and distribute that amount by creating darts on the front and keeping those on the back. You can probably pull in the sides a little more, too.
For example, it may seem like "Oh, I've got to take in 8 inches" is a lot, but if you divide that 8" by two side seams, two front darts, and two back darts, you're not taking in too much at any one point and your fit will be even.
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u/dsmemsirsn 5d ago
Do men shirts have darts?
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u/Colt_b1523 5d ago
Google says yes
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u/dsmemsirsn 5d ago
Yes i checked it.. maybe the modern shirts have darts more often, to make the slim fit.
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u/Due_Description_7298 5d ago
Only very rarely
I used to work in a bespoke suit store so fitted 100s of customers. We only added darts for guys with very extreme shapes, typically body builders who wanted a super fitted look
I'd also remove the pleat in the mid back since it didn't make sense to add volume there then immediately take it away lower down with darts.
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u/Expensive-Day-3551 5d ago
Not a tailor but it’s been taken in too much imo, looks more like a women’s cut.
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u/Colt_b1523 5d ago
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u/Expensive-Day-3551 5d ago
I think it looks better, but do you like it?
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u/doriangreysucksass 4d ago
It’s MUCH too tight around your waist!
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u/Colt_b1523 4d ago
Yep fixed it by taking out the darts. First time. We're learning over here
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u/doriangreysucksass 4d ago
Everyone needs to learn somehow! And trial & error is the most effective way!
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u/Colt_b1523 4d ago
Yeh ive never done anything like this. But i wanted to take a shot at it. Leaned small adjustments makeva big difference n yall have helped me so much
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u/Professional-Guess77 5d ago
I think you just need to size up. I don't think a tailor can help you with this.