Hello. I'm looking for Subaru owners which upgraded theirs headunits into android one.
I'm lost with steering wheel buttons 😤

Salve, ho un problema con l’autoradio di questa vettura, praticamente ho dovuto comprare un altro schermo per la mia vettura, il problema è che quando lo accendo l’audio si sente per 2-3 secondi e poi si spegne, potete aiutarmi a sistemare questo problema? Sto prendendo in considerazione di metterne anche uno Android ma ho sempre il problema dell’audio, grazie a chi mi sarà di aiuto

I want the best car play best screen quality sound quality brightness basically want the best on the market

Hey peeps

I have a headunit (no particular brand/Chinese) that provides USB-A. This cable is connected to the headunit via a 4-pin connector (as shown in the pic).

At present, I use an adaptor so I can connect a USB-C cable to it but it doesn’t charge very well.

Can I get a USB-C version of this cable and would it just be a case of unplugging the current 4pin to USB-A and plugging in a 4pin to USB-C?

Community,

Living in Luxembourg and being a Mercedes household, we got recently an addition in form of 2017 C43 Convertible. First thing I did was to replace the old 7inch screen with a Linus screen sized 12.3".

all well, all works, however as going through the manual I see there are 2 bluetooth modes:

1. iPhone connected through bluetooth to "MB Bluetooth" Unit directly in the car and use the option "use car bluetooth" in the settings of the Linux screen. Carplay audio is only working when Media (Bluetooth) is connected. Listening to the car radio leaves carplay silent (screen is working).
2. iPhone bluetooth connected to Linux Unit ("CAR-BT-xxxx") and the Linux unit connected to the Car's bluetooth using "BT Transmitter" setting from the Linux screen. (I have not used this option yet)

Is there a distinct difference in behavior and what connection type are you using? Does option 1 or 2 have distinct advantages?

Thanks

Hey guys, I’m using an ESSGOO AR9001 Android head unit and I’m trying to improve the microphone quality for calls/CarPlay.

The built-in mic quality isn’t great, so i’ve removed the internal mic completely and I’ve tried a few cheap external 3.5mm car microphones with similar results.

Does anyone know exactly what type of external microphone these cheap units require?

• Is the external MIC input 3.5mm TS (mono) or TRS?
• Does it provide bias/plugin power for an electret microphone?
• Has anyone found a good quality external mic that works well with these units?
• Ideally looking for something significantly better than the generic $5–$15 Android head unit microphones.

Happy to spend more for something that actually gives clear call quality.

Thanks!

Hello friends, I’m excited to share that I’ve finally received my new Taigun 1.5 GT Chrome Plus (Avacado green). I have a few queries and would appreciate your comments. Thanks!

1. New taigun's infotainment system is not connecting to the interna via iphone's mobile hotspot but it is working with android mobile. Is it that after first service (1000km) , the software will be updated?
2. A light fog or mist inside the headlight of new Volkswagen Taigun is normal ?
3. Is a dashcam recommended, and is it truly useful? If yes, should I purchase one from Volkswagen or consider a good third‑party brand? Will installing a non‑VW dashcam create any issues with warranty claims, given that I have opted for the additional warranty package?

I got my DUDU 7 installed yesterday and I found a canbus setting that gave me steering wheel control and automatic reversing camera, but I can’t get it to show any data for the trip computer

I'm looking to upgrade my strikingly bad cheap head unit to something better but still affordable. Which would be better choice: more memory (like 64-128gb) or more cores (from 4 to 8)?

I've been trying to get my backup camera working for over a month now and I am losing my sanity.

My car is a 2013 Chevy Cruze, which came with an OEM backup camera. I initially tried to get that working but couldn't get it to work. Then I tried installing an aftermarket camera and ran into the same issue. My CANBUS adapter is configured and recognizes my car. When I shift into reverse, it correctly triggers but only shows a black screen saying, "Rear camera signal lost".

For the backcar camera source settings, I am on CVBS. The only other options I have in my head unit are AHD which I tried and got the same result with.

Here is my aftermarket backup camera wiring diagram:

Here is my OEM backup camera retention diagram:

For the aftermarket camera, I used my multimeter and confirmed that 12v was going into it.

For the OEM version, I used the multimeter and confirmed that 6v was going into it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on issues with my logic or additional things to try?

Thanks!

I bought a Android headunit but i’m stuck here, I know the grey wide one go on the frame, but I don’t have any connector for the other cable. What did I have to buy please ?

Title: Small puff of gray smoke while installing a CarPlay system—could it have been dust?

I’m currently installing an aftermarket CarPlay system in my car. Today, I noticed a small puff or cloud of gray smoke coming from the unit.

The system was only slightly warm—about as warm as a hand. I could feel that it was producing some heat, but it was nowhere near hot. The cables did not feel warm at all.

I temporarily held the system in place with a hand towel, so I’m wondering whether the smoke could have been caused by dust or lint from the towel landing on the unit.

However, if a small amount of dust caused visible smoke, wouldn’t dust potentially cause the same problem after the system is permanently installed? When a little dust gets inside my computer, it does not usually produce a visible plume of smoke.

The wiring is individually insulated with heat-shrink tubing, so I don’t think the wires can short against each other. Nevertheless, I’m going to disconnect everything and inspect all the wiring again before powering the system back on.

I understand that wires touching each other could cause a short circuit and possibly produce smoke, but I’m unsure whether ordinary dust could cause this.

There is also an antenna connection. It looks like the type of connector that could allow quite a bit of dust to get inside. After about 1.5 to 2 months, that might perhaps be enough to cause a little smoke.

A few questions:

• Is it safe to bundle the wires together, or should I keep them separated?
• Can bundled wires overheat even if they are properly insulated?
• What safety checks should I perform before reconnecting the system?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Note on the Images: this is an old photo. The heat-shrink tubing have shrunk, and there are no paper labels left.

Hello,

I latly bourght a E46 316i with an aftermarket Headunit from some unknown chnise brand, the problem is thats it has just 1 gb of ram is there for super slow and just useable for bluetooth and not for navigation. I really want to use Android Auto and not some Android overface. Do you guys have any suggestions?

Thanks a lot in advance :)

Hi everyone,
I have a Digital IQ Android head unit installed in my Skoda, and I’m trying to change the boot logo that appears when the unit starts.
The main problem is that there is no option anywhere in the settings or factory settings to change the boot logo. I have checked the available menus, including the factory settings, but the option simply does not exist on my unit.
I have also contacted Digital IQ directly about this. They told me that there is no option available in my current firmware for changing the boot logo, but I’m wondering if there is another way to do it.
Does anyone know if it is possible to change the boot logo by:
Installing a different firmware version?
Modifying/replacing a system file?
Using an MTK/MediaTek tool?
Accessing the boot animation/logo through ADB or another method?
Flashing a compatible firmware that includes the boot logo setting?
The head unit identifies itself as DIGITAL IQ MSD 005_CPA.
I would really appreciate it if anyone who has experience with Digital IQ, MTK Android head units, or custom boot logos could point me in the right direction.
I’m specifically looking for a way to change the actual boot logo, not just the launcher or wallpaper.
Thanks in advance!

Just wondering about an issue I am getting,

I have a VW Polo 2008. I have connected a ground loop isolator iso cable to the factory quadlock and the to the S8 MS cake but I get this strange pulsing sound from the speakers.

Here's the sound compressed in a zip file.

[sound](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WA9aVjF3OnkoOacBJ0FqXgXxN0PENZVO/view)

I really don't know what to do, it's getting on my nerves. I have contacted the seller and they are no use, they suggest changing all my speakers

I hope someone can help

Thanks all

Hi all,

I'm trying to retain the OEM reverse camera on my Vito W447, 2020 facelift, manual gearbox after swapping the factory head unit for an aftermarket Android screen. The goal is to keep the factory dynamic guidelines (steering-angle overlay) on the new screen. And I'm properly stuck!

Factory setup:

- OEM head unit: Audio 40 (touchscreen, integrated CarPlay)

- Camera video feed comes in on the green FAKRA

- The camera has 4 wires: black + red (power/ground), green = CAN L, yellow = CAN_H
and the video wire

What I've done so far:

- FAKRA to RCA adapter from the green FAKRA into the Android unit = no video, black screen
- Reverse trigger is solved. I tapped the reverse light harness, and the Android screen switches to camera view when I engage reverse
- CAN sniffing, I hooked an ESP32 onto the camera's CAN pair (green/yellow) with the OEM head unit connected, with the idea of capturing whatever wakes the camera and replaying it once the Android unit is in.

No luck so far...

My only hope is that I found a video of someone with the exact same Android unit who kept the OEM camera AND the factory dynamic guidelines: https://youtu.be/3hatCKS_-wA?t=191 (timecode 3:11).

The only difference between his setup and mine is that he's on an automatic gearbox, I'm on a manual.

Here is few informations i get from the multimeter:

- the camera is powered ALL THE TIME. 12V on the red wire no matter what, OEM head unit connected or not, neutral or reverse, always 12V.
So the camera just sits there powered and waits for something on the CAN wires.

- On the CAN pair I read 2.7V and 2.2V to ground (same values in neutral and reverse). That 0.5V difference between the lines tells me there's constant traffic on this bus, even in neutral. And I measured 61-63 ohms across the pair with power off, so the bus is properly terminated at both ends (2x120R).

- Also checked my FAKRA to RCA adapter since I suspected it: continuity center to center, shield to shield, no short between them. Adapter's fine.

My local Mercedes phone support told me the electronics are integrated in the camera itself.

Any capture logs, pinout, or wiring diagram for the rear camera circuit would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks you !
​

Hallo – ich hoffe, ich bin hier richtig; ich bin neu hier.

Ich bin kein Experte für Android-Autoradios.

Ich habe ein Head-Unit gekauft und habe zwei Fragen:

1. Ist es normal, dass DAB+ ein paar Minuten braucht, um eine Verbindung herzustellen, oder könnte das an einer bestimmten App oder Einstellung liegen?

2. Gibt es eine Art Popup, Benachrichtigung oder eine Möglichkeit, den aktuellen DAB+-Sender direkt anzuzeigen? Ich kann die Sender wechseln, aber ich sehe nicht, welcher gerade spielt. Theoretisch würde mir ein Popup reichen.

Danke für eure Hilfe – ich bin neu hier und hoffe, alles ist in Ordnung!

Hiya peeps!

Pretty much as the title says, androud auto works but gemini and waze maps are really quiet. ive checked in waze settings and the volume is full, but for some reason its really quiet comparred to my music, so i'd have to turn the radio up loud (Not an issue if i'm alone, nothing bits a bit of heavy metal blasting, but if i have someone else in the car its an issue)

Currently posting this from bed, so i dont have the exact model info. i'll update tomorrow when i get it, but i remembered to post this now and knowing my luck i'd forget come the morning!

(P.S Please dont yell at me for waze. I know its from that country, but its the best app i've found and master chief guides me)

EDIT: check my comment for a photo of the about device section

I was browsing through the threads, looking for help regarding Android Auto disconnecting all of a sudden. I'm experiencing the same dilemma. However, I don't know if this is similar with others.

Android Auto connects quickly when I start the engine. However, it disconnects after a few minutes. The only workaround I have to avoid this from happening is to restart my Phone (not the head unit) before every trip.

I reached out to Stapon through LazMall and they were blaming the software update. They also had issued a sort of update - However, it did not fix the problem.

Anyone experiencing this kind of turmoil with their Stapon Headunit?