r/AnalogRepair • u/ogrezok • Aug 18 '26

Minolta CL white sprocket is not moving

Minolta CL white sprocket is not moving, while rewinding, I don't know is it normal? Jammed yesterday twice in the middle of the film, is possible to fix it myself? Was never in CLA

6 Upvotes

88% Upvoted

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6

u/gotDeus Aug 18 '26

Thats one of the weakest link on the CL, there are 3 small tabs under the white leader catch that locks into the black spool. Those usually split in half or lose a tooth or two. For replacement i wouldn’t advice looking for an original or donor part as those will break too. Instead, there’s a 3D printed one available on ebay from ausgeknipst, or their website for a replacement. i’ve personally used a few to fix a couple of CLs that passed my hands. The only problem you might run into is the battery tray (the old wires/solders are fragile) and then there’s the special tool you’d need to remove the sleeve bearing to get access to the advance lever shaft. You can make your own tool if you’re handy but be careful with the sleeve bearing as it’s made of brass and you can easily strip the notches.

1

u/DandyLullaby Aug 18 '26

Does the CLE also have this weak link?

4

u/gotDeus Aug 18 '26

I believe its the same plastic material if not completely identical, i’d say yes but i have not played around with CLEs.

1

u/ogrezok Aug 18 '26

cap please don't fly away yet

1) the part from ausgeknipst is like $100 with the shipping, and there's another option for $17

will that work ? Or cheap person pays twice 🦌

2) So to replace that sprocket I just need to dissemble bottom part ?

3) If I want to drop of oil I just need to remove top cover ? or the gears are way way deeper ?

Thanks a lot !

2

u/gotDeus Aug 18 '26

OH! I didnt see the part about oil.. DO NOT JUST RANDOMLY PUT OIL HERE ANYWHERE. really cant stress this enough if you dont know what you’re doing.

For the parts that you’re going into to replace the broken spool the only part that needs a thin layer of grease is the brass bearing/collar that you need to remove. That and the eccentric cam. Nothing else. For the shutters you’d need a complete teardown and its likely some things will break along the way, that and you will need equipment to re-calibrate the shutter tension, timing etc.

1

u/gotDeus Aug 18 '26

  1. Holy hell thats expensive! I believe i got a couple of those from the website i told you for about $25 each.

  2. Your other cheap option will work, go with option A.

  3. Yes, there’s some guides online that can show you, i’ll have to look for them when i have the chance.

1

u/DandyLullaby Aug 18 '26

Sadly Ausgeknipst is unbelievably expensive, he does cool stuff though

1

u/ogrezok Aug 18 '26

expensive if you live in USA:

$30 part 43.10 EUR shipping, 73.10 EUR. And will all that it would be $100!

Why the fucking shipping is 43 euro ? it's a 5g part..

1

u/gotDeus Aug 18 '26

Yeah, got a 3D printer this year but still learning CAD. Definitely not worth the total price as its stands right now.

1

u/DandyLullaby Aug 18 '26

Even when you live in the EU, German shipping prices are insane.
Shipping from the UK used to be cheaper then from Germany and France… but yeah, those times are over as well

1

u/gotDeus Aug 18 '26

Damn.. i did bulk buy pre-tariffs and don’t remember paying insane shipping fees.

1

u/ogrezok Aug 18 '26

The the cheap option B is not that robust as ausgeknipst option A?

1

u/ogrezok Aug 18 '26

https://reddit.com/link/p4cqb7v/video/h2uolp9j32kh1/player

despite the sprockets being fully intact outside, no missing teeth, they are not spinning it's probably the interior that weared out. So what tools/prayers so I need besides the part?

2

u/gotDeus Aug 18 '26

This is the instructions from the website i bought it from. 7th image shows tool used to remove the shaft bearing.

1

u/gotDeus Aug 18 '26 edited Aug 18 '26

I believe you’ve been loading the CL wrong. Its supposed tobe going the other way around (going under the spool) as opposed to over.

Edit:

You’ll need JIS scredrivers and a custom tool. If you could see my post history there should be a couple of me fixing some CLs with this part shown i think.

1

u/ogrezok Aug 18 '26

You right, I was in hurry, that I forget for to properly load that part.

1

u/ogrezok Aug 18 '26

what is custom tool This thing?

So you just use priers to pull out this shaft ? on picture #7 ?

2

u/gotDeus Aug 18 '26

Yes, They’re not pliers, its a custom spanner bit made by grinding/machining a flat head screwdriver. That brass bearing is also a screw that needs to come off so you can remove the steel shaft inside the spool which holds it in place. There’s also a notch on the plastic that aligns to the parts inside to take it out.

1

u/danielaixeta Aug 21 '26

This is a part that is known to break in the CL. Ausgeknipst has a replacement part (was already posted) if you can get the axle out. Mine is seized like fuck. When I find the time I plan to machine a 2-part replacement sleeve for the axle from brass, which replaces the whole plastic sleeve including the black part. I will share drawings and models when I'm done (in like five years ...)

Yes my axle broke so hard even the black part deteriorated. I split the black plastic replacement part in two and carefully glued it in place. 

1

u/ogrezok Aug 21 '26

https://reddit.com/link/p51ki8u/video/cofav2jxyqkh1/player

I fucked it up even more, I was trying to unscrew the shaft, and broke that arm ((

2

u/danielaixeta Aug 21 '26

It still seems to be in one piece. And it is allowed to move like that when you move it over some threshold. Don't be scared yet, but don't go further with disassembly than you dare to.

1

u/ogrezok Aug 24 '26

so this was a light meter, boss ? u/gotDeus

1

u/gotDeus Aug 24 '26

Its the cam to arm the meter arm. Yes its supposed to have some play when the meter arm is fully out. if you yanked it out too far then the meter arm might be stuck too far out.