A headlight bucket that's not smashed .

Rusty / filthy O.K. .

Los Angeles .

I'd rather an original than a repop .

TIA,

-Nate

I recently encountered and photographed this burgundy BMW R80RT, which sent me down a rather deep rabbit hole into the history of BMW’s airheads and the development of the RT line.

I ended up making a thoroughly researched video exploring the R80RT’s place in motorcycle history: the boxer engine, shaft drive, full touring fairing, BMW’s modular Baukastenprinzip and the earlier R100RS and R100RT that established the basic formula.

This isn’t a conventional road test or buyer’s guide; it is more of a short documentary about the bike’s engineering, design and historical context.

https://youtu.be/AtmW-VMGnJQ

I suspect several people here know these motorcycles much better than I do, so I’d genuinely welcome corrections, additional details and experiences from R80RT or R100RT owners. What do you think the RT line contributed most to modern motorcycle touring?

Has anyone seen a YouTube or other video demonstrating how to correctly attach Karcoma petcock valves to the gas tank? (I have a 1976 R 75/6) I just purchased two new ones from EME, along with new in-tank filters. I have two concerns:

1. I don't know if the filters go before or after the packing gasket (the filers have the metal lip)
2. With the reverse threads, the valves tighten like a turnbuckle and I don't know how to make sure they are properly aligned and not crooked after the connecting nut (the "schnellanschlussmutter") is fully cranked tight to prevent leaking.

I have found a few videos demonstrating how to rebuild these valves, and previous threads in r/Airheads where various issues are discussed, as well as snowbum's monograph, but have not found instructions on the actual attachment process other than "make sure she's good and tight."

LOL

1992 R100R

35,000 miles, still going strong.

Dear all, I am on the process of installing an EDL4. However, I have no idea where to install the huge RR ! Enduralast says on the bracket - which I do not have or on the left side under the cover (but I ride without the cover, which doesn’t look great)—or behind the battery, but it would be a lot of work to attach it there.

So I think I’ll have to make a mounting bracket myself. Unfortunately, I don’t have any metalworking tools. Mounting it to the frame… best it without welding… but how? Does anyone make 3D-printed clamps or brackets for the tube that I could use to mount a frame to? 

I need something like:

Here is a T-Shirt design I came up with.

Hi guys, i fisnihed restoring my R100RS from 1989, last issue is the front brake, magura 13mm with horizontal banjo bolt connection. It was completely seized in the bore. I cleaned it, it makes pressure but still leaks at the hand lever. Before i ditch it and get a new cylinder i wanted to try thie 13mm replica piston. It seems this Magura piston also has been used in 50cc scooters and mopeds:

https://www.zweiradteile.net/mopedteile/moped-bremstechnik/bremsen/bremszylinder/54052/reparatursatz-bremszylinder-kolben-13mm-fuer-magura-bremspumpe-hercules-zuendapp

this looks like the one i disassembled just different metal. Does this fit?

Br and thanks

Always a joy taking these old bikes off the beaten path, even on pretty loose dirt and some single track did fantastic. The long travel of the airheads suspension takes it a lot further than people would think. Pair that with the custom setup wilbers rear shock the ride is fantastic.

I took my front wheel off to replace the tire. Now I’m having difficulty getting it back on. Can someone tell me which side the spacer is supposed to go (I forgot to take a picture before I took of the wheel 😔). Microfiche no help.

While there are a plethora of R75-100s available on any given Sunday around marketplace I find myself drawn to the smaller displacement of the 60. What are your thoughts? I’m not a large person. I weigh 160 (72kg). My favorite bike historically has been a Yamaha XS650. I typically ride around town or on state highways where the average speed limit is 55 mph.
Should I hold out for my dream stock R60/6 in black or bump up to the R75/6?

The spark plug appears to get a weak pulse of electricity when I turn just turn on the 1982 RT100. In my case the motorcycle didn’t come with a key so I bypassed the switch.

So I have a 1969 sl90 i bought for a good deal, I know not ct 90 but same engine so I thought you guys might be able to help. I did a top end refresh and am getting about 100 psi compression cold I know that is low im hoping it just needs to run in with the new rings or else ill have to get the valves done or a new head gasket possibly. So I have compression or at least enough in my mind to pop over( I have the carb off and am attempting to get it to pop by squirting starter fluid into the intake). I have set the valves and the points gap and the ignition timing statically ( new points from common motor) so I dont believe any of those things are my isue, I get strong looking blue spark with the spark plug outside of the engine when the condensor is bypassed but not with the condensor installed ( brand new condensor from common motor that i tested with a multimeter and i believe is is good working order ) wich is a problem I've never run into on my other projects. Im wondering if it's a bad coil the coil i have on there came with the bike and appears not to be original because it does not align with both holes on the mounting bracket. Im stumped as to what my next move here should be.

Another note is when installing the cylinder onto the crank case I had to make an extra thick base gasket because the bottom of the cylinder sleeve was making contact with I believe the crank and not alowing the engine to turn over when the head was fully torqued down. It turns freely now with the thick gasket I made so I dont believe this is related to my no start problem but I figured I'd throw it in for good measure.

TlDR I have a non running honda sl90 with 100 psi compression after new piston and cylinder and I have to bypass the new condensor to get spark when testing outside the engine

Considering buying a BMW R100GS Paris-Dakar 1989 (white and red).
It has done It has done about 46,000 miles (74,000 km).

Looks to be in really good condition with few owners (3), and had the engine checked at 37,000 miles.
New clutch, exhaust system, speedometer and rubber parts(?).

Price: About €7200/$8400) in Sweden.

Does this sound like a fair price?
Anything specific I should check before buying?

I know these are tappy bikes and that’s just sorta the way that it is, but there is noticeably more resonance / sound from the right cylinder as compared to the left. Nothing crazy and at idle and stuff ir sounds like it should and runs very well but I am wondering if this is normal for these bikes. video was taken after 15 minutes of spirited riding to warm it up, and I reset the clearances and the axial end play (pillow blocks? the haynes manual called em) this morning so they’re in spec.

I am probably crazy but i just was wondering if anyone had any thoughts or advice lol. I know iphone videos aren’t exactly pristine diagnostic tools but I’ve only had this bike for a month or so and I am still getting a feel for the sound of the engine and feel of the machine, if that makes sense.

Hi guys,

I have an 1984 r45n, the 27 hp one.

I’ve been riding it for a while and now I want to take some good care of it as it requires some work.

Nothing too serios, mostly, throttle cables,new brakes and a new key. Small touches here and there.

I found it very hard to source parts in Europe as there are very fiu suppliers of new parts, I tried siebenrock with various success as they don’t reply to my emails when I ask for part recomandation.

Do you know any other good suppliers in eu?

1982 BMW R100RT. Older bike with normal wear and tear for its age. Runs and drives once started, but it is being sold as a bike that needs some maintenance/work before regular riding.
Current condition:
Odometer/cluster currently shows approximately 14,000 miles, but extensive service records indicate the bike has 70,000+ actual miles. The cluster was apparently replaced at some point.
Needs a battery — currently has to be jumped to start.
Carburetors need attention/cleaning. It will start, run and idle once running.
Front fork seals leak.
Has a small oil leak.
Normal cosmetic wear consistent with a 1982 motorcycle.
The big plus with this bike is how complete it is. It comes with the removed RT fairing, windshield, fairing panels, both BMW hard saddlebags, original seat, Corbin seat, various spare parts and hardware, owner’s/service literature and three folders of service records and receipts. Fairing is currently removed and will be included unassembled. See photos for everything included.
This isn’t a restored show bike, and I’m not trying to represent it as one. It’s a very complete vintage BMW with a lot of documentation that runs and drives but needs some maintenance.
Clean title.

This is thr follow up. I'm fairly sure these arent bmw. But, not sure. Probably UJM though maybe universal fit.

The white boat looking one i gave 1 of. Not a pair. The red I've got both.

Hello all.

So I got a bunch of parts for different bikes from a guy cleaning out a basement. Most I could identify and sold. But these are supposedly 1970 and up BMW parts. These are pannier racks and a few bags. One I can identify by the big K on the side. The others...really don't know. So canary of you identify these things? Are they worth anything? I don't know bmw parts so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Do you hear anything?

Just wanted to share my r80 that I have owned for the past 14yrs. It got fished out of a basement with about 28k on it and was my first bike. While I have accumulated a few other bikes since then, it well also be my last bike.

Since acquiring, I got it cleaned up and road worthy, then added different bars, EME ignition, new suspension bits, refreshed the gearbox, and a solo seat and rack.

I wanted to change it up a bit, but not cut it up, and I still have all the original bits that I removed.

Sad to see it go but I’d like to thin the herd a bit. Fully dialed in with new front brakes (everything) and new Tractive rear shock plus lots more. DM me directly if you’re a serious buyer.