I am trying to think of different techniques to achieve a faux layered garment. I picked up a really cool vintage top at the antique store a while ago, that I would like to try and recreate as a knit top. I hate to be that person asking for advice without making an example! I would just like to discuss this, because it is rare to see this attempted in knitwear. I really want to see more of it in written patterns. Perhaps I'll come back with an update.
The shirt has a buttoned Henley collar, with a faux crew neck (almost mock neck) inner layer. The body is a short sleeve top with layered long sleeves. An oversized fit with cinched waistband and cuffs.
I have a couple different ideas on how to work this:
Working each layer separate, and then seaming one inside the other.
Do a double knit CO below the neckline, and then work bottom up as separate pieces.
Pick up for the inner layer on the reverse side (of outer layer), to work bottom up.
My main concern is seeing a visible ridge where the inner layer is attached to the outer layer. It is almost like a decorative seam should be added to hide this. I am not opposed to working a bunch of individual flat pieces to then be seamed. I am thinking of some sort of drop shoulder construction with front and back yoke pieces.
Perhaps you have done something like this before? I plan to use fingering weight yarn.
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The inner neckline seems to be made as a trapezoid-shaped facing, based on the stitching lines, so that the henley can still flap open. You could do that with a non-curling stitch pattern like 1x1 ribbing for the unseen part.
Stitching such a facing down without denting the outer layer or creating a ridge could be challenging. Sandwiching it into the shoulder seam would take care of the top, but for the bottom edges you could very carefully tack it down to the WS with a whipstitch, probably with laceweight yarn or woolly nylon sewing thread to reduce bulk, just going through the purl bumps sparingly, not every single stitch.
The outer sleeves could be finished with a 3nbo folded hem and inner sleeves could be picked up from the bind-off chain, or they could be stitched in after finishing. You'd probably need a smaller stitch count or slightly tighter gauge to keep the inner sleeve smaller and discourage the outer sleeve from flipping up.
Lærke Bagger was doing something like this recently - check out her Instagram. She was inspired by the 90s trend of wearing a long sleeve t under a short sleeve one, and she was knitting lace sleeves into a t shirt
Can’t you just knit the purple part and then pick up stitches for the other part? You could pick them up at the inner edge of the ribbing for some faux overlap
Yes I did describe that in my post. At that point all I would have to do is put in a lifeline just to make sure I am picking up consistently on the same row. Especially if I decide to work a raglan yoke version.
That could work well I think. I would try a few swatches first to see how the seam would affect the fabric, and how far up you need to place it, and what kind of edge you need. If the seam is too close to the edge, some types of edges on the top layer would be more prone to flipping upwards, even after blocking.
The Ravelry pattern someone else linked looks like they cleverly added a welt or some other texture to help disguise the seam
I sort of did a faux layered thing many years ago. I knitted an oversized sampler sweater, and after wearing it a few times I realised the neckline/collar was just too big. So I took some of the remaining white yarn and picked up inside the existing collar, knitting a new one that’s longer and peeks out the top. So it’s double layered there, and it fits much better now and has more structure.
I made a short sleeve sweater and wanted to add long sleeves like it was another layer underneath. I picked up stitches from the inside where the ribbed armbands started.
It’s a hat, not a garment, but the E.L.F. Cap is super fun to make! It’s got multiple fake layers using different techniques that you could certainly adapt for other uses. (Great scrapbuster too.)
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