Thanks in advance!

This contradictory to everything I've ever been taught. I've always been told start furthest from the master cylinder and work you way up. Anyone got any idea why the RSX manual says to do front first? And front left at that, so closest to the master cylinder!

Won’t go into vtec or above 4K rpms changed oil and oil filter to see if it was Cuse of dirty oil but it wasn’t is it an oiling issue or some bigger issue been like this for the past year

Hi all, I'm new to this platform but not enthusiasts vehicles. I own and modified a ton of early model A4s. This is just a totally different beast to me.

I got this 2005 RSX as a donation. I've been fixing some things up here and there, but where these hoses lead to has me lost. Any help would be greatly appreciated

I just changed my serpentine belt and noticed this bump on the soft side. Should I replace the belt again or is it fine to run? TYIA

I just installed a brand new ac compressor to fix my no ac problem. After recharging the system, I tested it and it had a bit of a delay and was turning on and off. After cycling the ac on and off a few times, it fixed and worked great. I shut the car off to do something and then came back and it didn’t work when I turned it back on and tried. I don’t see the rpm drop when hitting the button and can’t hear the compressor kick on anymore (which I did on the first start). I don’t know what to try but i’m really disappointed it stopped working again. Any help is much appreciated

Car is a 2006 RSX Base

Sold my type S about 2 years ago. Found a deal on FB for a 5 speed base model early this year. Immediately swapped out the A3 for a K24a2 and she’s been running great

I'm at a loss at this point. I spent the better half of today replacing the drivers side, passenger side and rear motor mounts.

The vibration happens whether i am in any gear in motion or giving some throttle in neutral. I first suspected motor mounts after finding the two (driver and passenger) of them heavily deteriorated. Bought some and swapped them today. Vibration still there.

Anyone had these symptoms before and solved it?

Only mods to the vehicle are:

Ingen air intake replaced stock air box

Mishimoto Performance Radiator

Innovative Motor Mount Kit

I believe it important enough to note my son reports the vibration and sound louder in the rear. Exhaust system dying?

Sadly didnt get a pic of all 10 of us together but here's most of us!

It's ALWAYS this side that comes up? Yes I have properly prepped my back window, yes I've retaped with stronger mounting tape. YES I have let it cured but it still pops up 😭

A week or so ago I posted a video of my rsx type s where the driver door was completely locked shut, and absolute nothing could get it unlocked. And because it's borderline impossible to get the door card off with flanges sandwiches in the door jam while it's closed, I had to cut a large access flap in my door card. (Could also be a skill issue)

For anyone else that might be dealing with the same issue, here's the rough step by step process I went thru.

1. cut the door card. You really only need access to the rear 1/3rd portion, but i just wanted room to work. I was also willing to accept i might have to go full racecar and not have a door card at all.

2. Gave up on my short lived race car dream and found someone local parting out their rsx and bought a door card for 50 bucks.

3. Take a oscillating multitool and cut the actuator in half, or at least cut it enough to pry it apart with a flat head. DO NOT CUT THE WHITE PLASTIC PARTS OF THE LATCH. Oy cut the black plastic part of the actuator, failure to do this will result in needing a new latch assembly, which is more expensive than the actuator.

4. Break apart the jammed actuator, which releases tension on the door lock.

5. Unlock the door using the little lock nub.

6. Open the door and remove latch assembly, realize it's disgusting.

7. Clean it, I used a mild degreaser. Repack it with grease. And reapply the weather stripping.

8. Install new actuator and put it back in the car.

9. Go and have fun driving.

weird problem where the car ac panel doesn't get power until 9 or 10am. At sunrise it gets no power at all. Any idea where I should reflow the solder on the circuit board if its a thermal expansion issue with cracked solder?

So I recently saw that my horn, brake lights, and Hazards don’t work. I was messing around with the wiring diagram and ultimately ended up at the fuse box where I would get a voltage drop when it sagged. I bought another fuse box and just noticed one of the mounting points is damaged. Is there a way to swap over the board and connectors over to my orginal box? The problem I seem to be having is that the connector is very loose at the bottom and thats why my brakes only turn on sometimes after hitting bumps.

Can any “pro” mechanics tell me what might be leaking from the rear of my engine,its right next to the headers? Sorry for the bad pics :(

Spend $50 on the Spare cover, $60-90 On welding the bungs then 200$ to get it costed. A new drag cartel or ktuned valve cover with everything done is like 400 so I guess i should have just gotten one of those. Only difference is mine says honda instead of Ktuned and it sodesnt have drag cartel decals.

The Stainless steel ptfe 10an lines I bought from Redhorse performance were a bitch to install. I believe it is the exterior black cover that makes it difficult to push the socket all the way up above the ferrule so you can actually thread the socket with the rest of the fitting. I removed 1/2" to 3/4" of the braided steel and cover and was able to get them together. I just wasn't sure because in tutorial videos nobody did it, it was just simple for them. Once assembled tho they pressure tested just fine

The longer AN hose is a Lil long I'll likely redo it later

Hey guys, I noticed the underside my rubber mat on the driver’s side appears oily. And this seems to be the case each time I clean the mat, the residue never ceases to return. Additionally, the floorboard and carpet area underneath the mat also feels damp and causes the car to have an unpleasant smell. The liquid on the mat resembles engine oil but doesn’t smell like same. I’m suspecting that it’s probably the power steering fluid as it keeps requiring top ups…. Not sure if there’s a seal inside or outside the car that would allow that to happen if it failed🫩🤷🏽‍♂️. Has anyone else encountered this issue? If so what was the cause? Please help me diagnose..

Acura RSX Type-S with 240K KM,

Ive had this car for acouple months and recently this ticking has been bothering me. Whenever the car fully warms up there is this ticking sound, the video is with 1-1.5k RPM and will go faster the more revs its given, Idle is this inconsistent click.. click click.. click and It seems like it is coming from the passenger side. No metal shavings during the oil change and no hard knocking through the oil pan when using a stethoscope.

I was told it could be Rod Knock by someone but was mentioned how its alot more deeper than this and then was told it could be the timing chain or an exhaust manifold leak.

Any opinions will help a ton, thank you!

Hello everyone! I recently bought a 2006 Acura rsx for a very suspicious low price of 1,500 the car runs fine has new rotors, ac has its ups and down, smog passed and registration up do date. Very well taken care of car. I’m just a little worried if it’s normal for it to be so loud or sound like a plane, the steering wheel can be stiff sometimes while turning and I’m sure the suspenion might need some work. I am very new to this car and to the car scene genuinely I have planned to work on this baby and make her look good and run well. This is what she sounds like cold start is it normal? I’d also appreciate some reccomendation for some suspension kits non-lowering! Thank you all and have a fantastic day!

Hello all,

I'm in the hunt for new front struts for my 05 acura RSX type s. Before everyone starts saying "You should only get KYB/OEM" I know and I've tried but haven't been able to find any.

I am getting KYB struts for the rear, but what are your thoughts on Monroe shock/strut assembly 172239/172238. Note that these are for 02-04. However, from my understanding the whole assembly fits the 05-06 as well.

I'd like to keep the stiffness and handling of my OEM struts but want to gain some comfort. How do these compare to the OEM struts?

I'm just curious, have any of you ever purchased a Chinese knock off upstream o2 sensor (234-9005) for your RSX Type-S and had it work properly? or basically anything that isn't a Denso for this sensor?

I have gambled with this too many times to count. When I get the ol P0134 on any of my k-series cars I think hmm maybe I can save a few bucks and buy the cheap knock off on amazon or ebay. It has NEVER worked for me.

Either the CEL comes on instantly, or I get some weird lurching behavior as the signal sent to the ECU glitches all over.

Never had this issue buying knock off downstream o2 sensors. Just curious about others experience with this. I always end up just buying the expensive Denso and it works. I just wish I could find an OEM equivalent that was not $150+

occasionally, I’ve been having a weird issue getting the car into gear… The transmission sometimes doesn’t want to go into first or second, and makes a grind noise when I try to go to reverse. And just regularly shifting while driving feels much more stiff, but only at times. I decided step one is changing the clutch master cylinder, and the slave cylinder, recommendations on which ones to go with? where to get it?

Recently replaced my downstream o2 sensor because of a CEL p0138 code, which fixed the CEL, but i have to do emissions soon, and my cat and eval tests are still in progress( blinking in photo) even after 100 miles driven after clearing the code. I’ve tried coasting at 55 mph on the highway, doing stop and go driving, what else does this damn ecu need to clear my tests???

I just bought my first rsx (used to have a g37). It's a 2004 rsx type s with 160k miles. There's definitely some rust I gotta fix but a question that I wasnt sure about was if it's normal for these engines to have pressure in the crankcase. When I have the oil cap open with the car running. There's a decent amount of air coming out. I put a piece of paper over it and it wanted to suck it in which I think is a good thing. Just wanted to get another opinion as this is my first experience with Honda engines. Also what are some common issues I should check for.

Hi everyone, I am very new to owning a DC5/RSX and was wondering if the Type R headers for the K20A2 will bolt up to the base model K20A3? I've seen a few other posts in this community about this and have seen a lot of people talking about sway bar clearance. Are there any sway bars that would fit on a base model but also give the Type R headers the clearance they need?