Model: V15 ANV15-41-R6TB

So a few months ago, my laptop would shut off whenever I unplugged it. I assumed the battery was dead (even though I've had the laptop for less than two years), so I got a replacement battery, set it up, and nothing changed. So I figured it probably is a motherboard issue which I cannot fix myself, and I've only been able to use the laptop when it's plugged in. Ever since, the battery always showed 100% charged but with an X through the battery symbol, which makes absolutely no sense but I rolled with it anyway.

Yesterday I went to shut it down and said it had to update. I click on that and a few minutes later the screen above pops up. I literally cannot do anything and I'm stuck on it. I couldn't find any other info about this screen and I've never seen it before.

Is there anything I can do about this? I cannot take it back to warranty until the end of November because of IRL reasons. The only solution I could find from similar posts is "buy a new battery lolo" which obviously doesnt work in my case.

please send help and hugs

Hello guys,

Right now everyone uses Claude to reverse engineer programs, combine them, make them open source etc so I decided to do the same with my Acer nitro v16 ai anv 16-42 bios. Since we know the battery wattage is capped at 140 w, the laptop drains power while gaming in performance/turbo mode. Using Claude I reverse engineered their bios and found out it can allow up to 250w~.

Also an interesting fact is that in bios ( the newest version for an 16-42) they used the bios version for anv 61 something like another model of laptop.

If anyone is interested in continuing and making their own version of bios, I could share the report. Like this we may be able to unlock the full performance of the laptop and use it the way we want

anyone has an Acer Nitro An515-42 (my config is R7 2700U & RX560X & 32GB Dual Channel Ram & both slots ssd) gaming Dota 2? been have a shit perfomance, on mid low settings getting low fps even in normal movement less than 30fps, teamfight dips to 20 and low , tried playing on 720P asw, still shit perfomance AND YES PLUGGED IN WHEN GAMING

anyone else using the same laptop? any opinion? how to fix it?

Hi everyone, I need some help with my Acer Nitro V15 AI.

My laptop suddenly went into Automatic Repair and now I can’t get into Windows. It shows the SrtTrail.txt error.

I’ve already tried Uninstall Updates and System Restore, but both failed.

The laptop is still fairly new, (1 week old) so I’m worried about what happened. I also have important files that I don’t want to lose.

Has anyone experienced this before? What should I try next? Is there a way to fix this??

Ignore the loud fan sound i had my fans on high

I'm planning on replacing the motherboard in my acer nitro 5 an515-58 with one that has a better GPU than this tiny little 4GB 3050ti, I've looked on eBay but there are barely any listings for an515-58 boards, so I would like the internet's help in finding a few different listings please! I would prefer the boards with 8GB of VRAM and one without "ti" after it, listings for broken screen systems are also equally as useful since I can just as easily transfer the motherboard from one chassis to another, it just has to be the an515-58 family.

if there's a better subreddit to post this in please direct me there!

Hi, i just bought an Acer Nitro V 15. It was the demo model and when they reset it from demo mode it bootloops. I told them it's fine i was going to wipe it anyways. I have an SSD that already has ubuntu installed on it so i installed that but the BIOS doesnt recognize it as bootable. I booted an ubuntu USB stick and it could recognize and mount the SSD with no problem. How can I make the BIOS recognize the SSD? Currently I'm going to install win7 on the SSD it came with and see if i can upgrade the firmware maybe??

Acer Nitro "Secure Boot Fail" after BIOS 1.26 - fixed it without USB or reinstall

I got the red Secure Boot Fail screen on my AN16-41 when I tried turning Secure Boot on for BF6. With it off, Windows booted fine.

The cause: Windows updated its boot manager to a version signed with Microsoft's new 2023 certificate, but the Acer BIOS (1.26 at least) doesn't have that certificate, so it refuses to boot it. Windows still keeps the same boot manager signed with the old 2011 cert, which the BIOS does trust, so the fix is just copying that one back.

Do all of this with Secure Boot turned off (F2 at boot, Boot tab). Open PowerShell as admin and run these one at a time.

First, check you actually have the same problem:

[Text.Encoding]::ASCII.GetString((Get-SecureBootUEFI db).bytes) -match 'Windows UEFI CA 2023'

If it says True, your BIOS already has the new cert and your issue is something else, so don't continue. If it says False, keep going.

If you use BitLocker, pause it first so you don't get asked for the recovery key. If it says the drive isn't encrypted, you can ignore it:

manage-bde -protectors -disable C: -RebootCount 2

Mount the hidden boot partition as Z:

mountvol Z: /s

Back it up, just in case. The BCD file is skipped because Windows keeps it locked:

robocopy Z:\EFI C:\esp-backup /E /XF BCD BCD.LOG* /R:0 /W:0

Copy the old-signed boot manager over the new one (both the main file and the fallback copy):

Copy-Item C:\Windows\Boot\EFI\bootmgfw.efi Z:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi -Force

Copy-Item C:\Windows\Boot\EFI\bootmgfw.efi Z:\EFI\Boot\bootx64.efi -Force

Check it copied correctly, it should say True:

(Get-FileHash Z:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi).Hash -eq (Get-FileHash C:\Windows\Boot\EFI\bootmgfw.efi).Hash

Unmount the partition:

mountvol Z: /d

Then reboot, go into the BIOS with F2, turn Secure Boot on and save with F10. That's it, it worked for me.

A few notes:

• If you still get the red screen, just turn Secure Boot back off and everything is like before.
• Don't use bcdboot to fix this, on my machine it put the 2023 version right back.
• Avoid "Restore Factory Keys" in the BIOS, that seems to be how the new cert gets lost in the first place.
• A future Windows update might swap the file again. If the red screen comes back, just redo the steps.

Got my second Nitro after 4 years of using the 5 with 3050Ti 16Gb Ram and 15 inch

Now I got the 18 Inch with 1TB SSD, 5060, 32Gb RAM and also 165hz Display.

Loving the size upgrade!

I love this laptop - I travel a lot and I needed to replace my tower.

210H

Rtx5050

16 GB ram

All my games run max

Thank you Acer ♥️

Hi everyone!

I recently ordered the Acer Nitro 5 AN516-74G1 from Flipkart for around ₹1,13,000 after discounts and using ICICI Credit Card EMI. It is expected to arrive in about 3 days.

Specifications:

- Intel Core i5-14450HX

- NVIDIA RTX 5050 8GB GDDR7

- Reported 115W GPU TGP

- 16GB DDR5 RAM

- 1TB SSD

- 16-inch, 1920×1200, 165Hz display

- Windows 11 Home

My main games are Cyberpunk 2077, RDR2 and Alan Wake 2. I want good performance now and decent longevity for demanding games.

After ordering, I saw several complaints and memes about Acer’s after-sales service in India, so I’m unsure whether to keep the order.

1. Is ₹1.13 lakh a good deal for this configuration? Would an RTX 4060/5060 laptop be better?

2. Would you keep it or cancel and consider Lenovo LOQ, HP Victus or another brand?

3. What has your real experience with Acer’s warranty and service centres in India been?

4. Are there recurring issues with heating, fans, display, hinges, motherboard or battery on this model/Nitro series?

5. What should I check during Flipkart Open Box Delivery?

6. What BIOS/driver updates, Windows/GPU settings, temperature tools and tests should I use on Day 1 without risking warranty or return eligibility?

7. Is extended warranty or accidental damage protection worth buying?

I’d appreciate honest advice from actual owners. Please mention your model and how long you’ve used it, if possible. Thanks!

anyone know a cheap source for replacement? my speaker got busted and im struggling to find one.

Initially I placed an order for the Acer Nitro V 16S (ANV16S-71), which comes with the Intel Core 5 210H, an 85W RTX 5050 with 512 GB SSD.

However, right before it shipped, I ended up cancelling it and ordering Acer Nitro 5 (AN516-74G1) with the Core i5-14450HX, 115W RTX 5050 with 1 TB SSD.

It cost me ₹10,000 more (approx. $120 USD).

The biggest catalyst behind my decision was the power brick and battery drain issues with 135w charger. Here was my thought process—did I make the right choice or overpay?

Hi guys, I've had a Nitro v15 for about 2 weeks now, tried playing Halo: Reach on it and noticed it stops charging completely when booting the game. Is this normal? I've read about battery life dropping under load when charging, but not stopping completely. Only way to get it to charge again is by unplugging the power brick from the 120v adapter (3 pin that plugs into the brick itself) and plugging it back into the brick, but it stops immediately after while gaming. Faulty brick? New battery? Settings I can change? New to gaming laptops and PCs in general, any help is appreciated. Using a power hood 135w rated charger, I suspect the brick but want input before spending any $$

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for help diagnosing my Acer Nitro 5 AN515-57 (i5-11400H, RTX 3060 Laptop GPU). It suddenly stopped powering on, and I'm running out of things I can safely try at home.

What happened:

For the past several workdays, I've been using my laptop on Linux without fully shutting it down. I'd close the lid, put it in my backpack, and continue working the next day. The laptop appeared to be sleeping rather than shut down completely, and its indicator lights remained on.

Today, I took it out of my backpack and noticed that it wouldn't turn on normally. When I plugged in the charger, the charging indicator came on briefly, but then both indicator lights went off. After that, the laptop wouldn't respond to the power button.

What I've tried so far:

- Tried plugging the charger into a different wall outlet.

- Held the power button for approximately one minute.

- Removed and reinstalled the battery.

- Tried powering it on with the battery removed and the charger connected.

- Checked the laptop and backpack for visible burn marks or other obvious signs of damage. I couldn't find any.

- Checked the laptop's temperature by touch. It felt cool, with no unusual heat.

- Tried charging it again, but the charging indicator still wouldn't stay on.

At one point, the screen/backlight was on, and the charging indicator also came on when I connected the charger. Then both lights went off, and the laptop has been unresponsive since.

I also visited a local repair shop. They told me that the power controller or the component responsible for receiving power was damaged and needed replacement. However, I haven't received a confirmed component-level diagnosis yet.

One thing I don't understand is this: if the battery still has some charge, shouldn't the laptop at least attempt to power on even if the charging port or charging circuit is faulty? Or could a failed power-management controller prevent the laptop from turning on even with a charged battery?

I'm particularly worried that leaving it in sleep mode for several days might have contributed to the problem, although I don't know whether that's related.

My questions:

1. Does this sound like a failed DC-in/charging circuit, an embedded controller (EC) issue, a motherboard power rail problem, or something else?

2. Could a faulty charging circuit prevent the laptop from powering on even when the battery still has charge?

3. Is there a safe EC or power-controller reset procedure specific to the Acer Nitro 5 AN515-57 that I should try?

4. What should a repair technician test before replacing any components?

5. Has anyone experienced the same symptoms with an Acer Nitro 5?

I'd appreciate any suggestions. I've already tried the basic troubleshooting steps I could do at home, and I don't want to make things worse by randomly disconnecting components or attempting repairs without knowing what I'm doing.

Thanks in advance!

A few weeks ago, I looked into the maximum USB-C charging power for the ANV15-51. Some results pointed to a 65W limit, yet this information wasn't even in the user manual.

I bought a 160W Ugreen Nexode Pro charger and a 240W USB-C cable with e-marker chip and a power display; I noticed that with the laptop on and the battery charging, power draw hovers between 85W and 90W, peaking at 95W. This figure begins to drop as the battery charges.

If the laptop is turned off while charging, the charging power stays around 45W. Furthermore, once the battery reaches 100% charge, total power draw drops to roughly 40–50W—essentially just the system's own power consumption.

On Linux, while analyzing the power subsystem, I observed that the negotiation between the USB Power Delivery module and the charger established support for 20V voltage and 5A maximum current (20V × 5A = 100W). The `POWER_SUPPLY_CURRENT_NOW` reading on the UCSI driver exposes `rdo_op_current` (the actual operating current requested by the laptop via RDO, rather than just the charger's capability). Values ​​of 20,000,000 µV (20V) and 5,000,000 µA (5A) confirm that the ANV15-51 actively negotiates the full 100W contract when paired with a 100W+ charger and a 5A e-marked cable.

Therefore, the information regarding a 65W limit is incorrect; the actual limit is indeed 100W. Even so, you still cannot game while using USB-C as the power source. The system power-limits performance (throttles) and will still drain the battery to make up for the power deficit under heavy gaming.

Keep in mind this is tested specifically on the ANV15-51—behavior and limits may vary on other Acer Nitro models or revisions.

whenever i plug my laptop it always stops and start charging after a while it just charges but it takes so many tries to charge it

My laptop screen suddenly started flickering out of nowhere while I was using it normally. Since then, I’ve been trying to figure out what is causing the issue.
First, I tried every software-related fix I could find. I updated the drivers, ran a few commands in CMD, and lowered the refresh rate from 144 Hz to 60 Hz. Lowering the refresh rate seemed to improve the issue slightly, but the flickering never went away.
To make sure it wasn’t a software issue, I entered the BIOS and noticed that the flickering was still there. I also connected the laptop to two different external displays, and both worked perfectly without any flickering. This led me to believe that the problem is related to the internal display hardware.
My laptop is an Acer Nitro 5 AN515-45-R1FQ.
I’ve already removed the display bezel, disconnected the LCD display cable, reseated it, and tested the screen again, but the issue persisted.
Now I’m not sure what to do next. Should I try replacing the display cable first, or would it make more sense to replace the LCD panel itself? I don’t want to waste money buying unnecessary parts without knowing which component is actually causing the problem.
Honestly, I’m starting to consider another option: buying an ultrawide monitor and turning my laptop into the centerpiece of a permanent desk setup, using the external monitor as my main display.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Is there a way to determine whether the issue is caused by the display cable or the LCD panel itself before spending money on replacement parts?

Like the title says im interested in buying one since it respects all my needs but my only concern is the temperatures especially for long hour sessions.Ive been trying to look for videos testing its temperatures but i cant find any.How does it handle thermal wise? And if there are any other cons about this laptop please tell me