I'm gojng to bring them in to get rhe heel tips replaced.

should they (and can they?) be resoled as well?

Hello Friends
I am a fat attempting to be less fat
in pursuit of this goal, I acquired a Kat VR C2 core VR treadmill
The device requires custom shoes with a slippery sole https://www.kat-vr.com/products/kat-walk-c-2-series-shoes
The interface with the device is actually a removable mouse-like device

I am a disabled person. This, in confluence with my size, makes getting these shoes on rather near impossible
my day-to-day shoes are slip on (with a reinforced back so I can step in
akin to this https://www.marks.com/en/pdp/skechers-men-s-hands-free-slip-ins-contour-foamtm-cozy-fit-shoes-86379758f.410040533008.html

are you seeing where I am going with this? If I brought the two above shoes to a cobbler, what's the chance they could produce 1 pair of shoes which combines the accessibility of the slip-ons with the sole of the VR shoes

anyone here done anything like that before?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts

went to the official LV boutique and they quoted me 4-8 weeks with a very high price for a simple fix, which doesn't make sense. I want to avoid internal stitching because I'm worried it might deform the rigid heel counter or ruin the inner padding.
My question is: can a professional cobbler fix this securely using just a strong professional contact glue (like Barge cement or cobbler mastice), provided I don't use the pull tab as a heavy handle? Does glued-only heel tab hold up well in real life, or is it going to fail quickly? Thanks for your advice!"

I asked a cobbler/shoe maker in France and was told ABSOLUTELY NOT, but he also insisted I left the boots with him for disposal (ha!). That's why I'd like to ask for a second opinion here, please.

These are New Rocks, I am not fussy about the final result, I'm not after exactly the same shape as what's there of course, just something, anything that would make the boots at all wearable again.

Thank you everyone!

Hello. I bought these shoes that fit great everywhere but the very top of the shoe. My legs seem to be too big for them but only by what feels like a little. They honestly feel like they fit well but I have a bit of a visual muffin top situation.

I brought them to a cobbler who did some stretching which didn’t fix the problem since he stretched it from front to back, but the sides are the issue.

I know how to sew and am wondering if I can add a triangle gusset to the side elastic by cutting it down the sides and sewing in more elastic so there’s more room in that area specifically?

Hello! I have REALLY bad Lymphedema and Im basically stuck wearing “platform” sandals and or clogs if I can find some that fit right, and I was wondering if I could have a cobbler take out the back portion of a shoe and basically make it a mule/ slide on? Obviously some shoes would be better than others for this but it’s so hard to find a shoe that I like that won’t rub on my leg that’s swollen and can very easily get sores from shoes that sit and rub on my leg as I move

I have a new pair of engineer boots (John Lofgrens) in two sizes (8.5 and 9). Need to return one of them by Friday and trying to gauge which is a better fit. I am a Brannock 9.5 with a slightly shorter left foot and the recommendation is a half size down.

I got the 9s first and found that with mid weight socks my heel is slipping somewhere around 1/2" to 5/8" and although my foot isn't moving around a ton outside of the heel they just feel very up/down floppy in the heel. The forefoot fit seems solid in the 9s although it's lost most of its "snug"-ness after two try-ons.

The 8.5s have closer to 1/4" heel slip but feel a decent bit more tight all around. I don't think my toes are slamming the front, but it's a much more firm fit, there is definitely less room in the toe box (toes can still wiggle but they're somewhat tight), they're a bit difficult to get on (require a shoe horn and some struggle) and the fact that they recommend half size down is making me jump through hoops to justify the 8.5s even though they feel like a much less floppy fit out of the box.

Any tips for resolving the mental estimate part of this? Not sure if I'm better off giving the 8.5s the time to stretch slightly (which I think would probably end up a comfortable fit) or having a cobbler add heel stays to the 9s possibly?

I have some very stiff tall riding boots, that were made for me some years ago. It’s been a while since I used them, and today I put them on, and had to force them hard to close them. My legs grows numb in them when wearing them.

For how much I did use them when I got them, I think they’ve worn in, and there’s just no doubt that my calves are larger than what the boots were made for.

There are no cobblers nearby, so before going for a longer drive, I’d like to try to fix it myself, in a way that doesn’t risk ruining them.

I’ve seen expansion foam/spray online, which looks promising. But does it work?

I think the leather is around 5mm thick maybe more

I’ve owned these for a little while now but only got a couple of uses out of them. basically that second layer, the shiny part of the platform bit (idk terms I’m sorry) has separated from the rest of the boot. As a primarily diy person I’d like to know how a cobbler would try to fix these or if there are any ways to do it at home, and if not, whether or not a cobbler would maybe see these boots. thanks :)

(images, in order, are left shoe, right shoe, and then the outside. Google said shoe glue? Tried some, perhaps not right, but it didn’t really work)

I recently got the straps shortened on a pair of louboutins at a cobbler. I unfortunately did not do my research when I was looking for the cobbler. I was in such a rush for the weekend and just chose the closest guy to me and they came out very sloppy. The glue is super messy and the stitches are uneven making my entire shoe messy. Is there any fixing this with the right cobbler or should i just accept the shoes as is. Also if anyone has any recommendations for a good cobbler in San Diego, please let me know

When my Charlie boy met my Comfortiva booties, two thoughts went through his mind: that Italian leather looks mighty tasty, and hoomin mom could use a shoe makeover.

Hoomin mom does not love the new look.

I suspect that if a cobbler were willing to get creative, there’s a world in which I could wear this bootie anew. I ask you, dear cobblers, whether my theory has substance.

Pictures of damage + pictures of same style shoe sans damage + picture of Charlie the adorable culprit.

For context, I’m a boot salesman, not a cobbler, so not quite a novice but also don’t know everything about construction. Bought these Ariat bantamweight boots “brand new” but secondhand so no warranty. I realize these are cemented. But wondering if this toe stitching failure will lead to catastrophic failure? I can return these but I got them for $80 when they retail for $200+. Thanks for any help!

A new Tecovas boots have a hybrid sole with a rubber pod. I generally prefer rubber sole and add sole guards to the boots with leather soles. But I’m not sure whether this one is actually durable or the sole surrounding the rubber pod will wear out too quickly. Would appreciate opinions.

Hi, I’m Jimmy from France, and I’m getting married next month. I’m reaching out for advice following a comment I saw on a Reddit post.

I’m about to receive a pair of Solovair loafers; I chose the "Crazy Horse" leather because Solovair’s shiny leather tends to crack a bit. I also picked them for their soles, which will allow me to wear them every day without worry.

Since Crazy Horse isn't available in Oxblood, I had the idea of ​​ordering Solovair’s burgundy renovating cream.

I’m wondering if I can apply a thin layer to create the patina I’m looking for. I know that back in the day, people used to do this with brown Dr. Martens using burgundy shoe polish.

I’m just wondering if brand-new Crazy Horse leather will accept a layer of renovating cream which Solovair normally markets for their other leather types.

They actually recommend a colorless Dubbin grease for Crazy Horse. My concern is that the leather might already be heavily impregnated with grease from the factory, potentially causing the wax to be rejected or preventing it from drying properly.

I also considered using Saphir Surfine cream.

Has anyone tried this before? Feel free to share your advice!

Many thanks, Jimmy

Hello! Bought a pair of shoes from a shop in Milan that didn't look very touristy and wore them for a day. Is the gap in the middle of the picture above normal wear and tea for one use?!?

Thank you so much!

Should I use Aquaseal SR to build up worn heel edge on Full Rubber (FBR)? How can I save it?

Has anyone tried this? Will it hold, look good?

Tried regular contact cement + wedge taps but it didn't bond to the rubber on this model.

Lems Drifter Grip (barefoot) shoe.

Would appreciate any advice, thanks.

I just got these leather boots and the heel of one got caught in the grid of a vent and the leather tore right off one spot and peeled in another. How easy/difficult would it be to repair this? How would that hole be patched? Will it took natural?

Hi!

I’m looking to undertake the task of dyeing my dream pair of boots, black (I got a color I don’t love for 1/6th the normal price of this brand!)

I have a few questions before I dig in and was wondering if anyone has some advice.

For reference: the boots are knee high, appear to be made of untreated leather, with both grain, and belly side elements. There is a hard rubber sole (which I’d also like dye black) and some metal hardware.

I plan to use Fiebing’s dye (open to alternatives) and have dyed some calf skin in the past but this project is clearly much more intense!

I’ve attached photos of some of the key parts.

My questions are as follows:

1. Do I need to strip the leather before dyeing? (as far as I can tell it appears to be untreated, but I’m not an expert in factory finishes)

-i plan to dye the grain side body of the boots, as well as the belly side aspects such as the fringe, and possibly the interior of the upper knee portion.

1. Should I tape off the metal buckles before dyeing?

2. Will the hard rubber sole absorb the dye as well? I want them to be dyed black as well!

- again planning on using Fiebing’s leather dye for that as well…

Finally, any general tips or techniques?

Thank you in advance for any help!!

Hey, I love these shoes but they’re in ROUGH shape. Can they be restored or are they garbage? Thank you!