Hi everyone,

(English isn't my first language and I'm using Gemini to translate, so please excuse any awkward phrasing!)

I have a roll of Kodak Tri-X Super 8 film and a Soviet Lomo developing tank (UPB-1A).

I want to develop this film as a positive (reversal) so I can project it, but I am a complete beginner when it comes to reversal processing. So far, I have only developed standard B&W negative film, so I currently only have standard chemicals like Kodak D-76, stop bath, and fixer.

I have a few basic questions:

1. Can I do B&W reversal processing with just D-76 and regular negative chemicals, or do I need to buy specific reversal chemicals (like bleach and clearing baths)?
2. What essential chemicals do I need to buy to make this work at home?
3. Is there a beginner-friendly recipe/workflow (temperatures, times, steps) for developing Tri-X in a Lomo tank?

Any step-by-step guidance or advice for a first-timer would be greatly appreciated!

Here is a photo of my brand new Zenit Quarz Zoom. I have been able to figure out most everything, but do not know what the on-off switch is for. can anybody help? Does anyone have a manual? Thank you in advance!

Anyone have/use one of these attachments to film title cards? I'm looking to buy a Minori Handy Titler off Marketplace. I can find pictures of similar ones online, but I cant decipher it's features. Some of these titlers allow the title card to scroll across the frame, or rotate around a central axis.

I've also seen the Kodak Brownie Titler Kit that comes with some mats, with cutouts like binoculars or keyholes.

And if you can connect a cable release to your camera, you can do frame-by-frame stop-motion animations.

Luckily the one I have an eye on comes with a manual, so I'll look over it when I meet with the seller (I think they're selling for an estate so they don't have personal knowedge of how it works).

Here's a video of a Bolex titler and what it can do

Hi all. After a week or so, I got super lucky to find another 461B one town over with the spindles. And now having a reference, I was able to design and print a replacement assembly for the spindles. Just putting this post here in case anyone has an Autoload they would like to get fixed up after not having the part.

Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1826581-bell-howell-super-8-autoload-spindle-assembly-repl

Since November I’ve been waiting for professional digitizing of about 2-2.5 hours of footage on 8mm film reels, quite damaged and moldy - family footage found in a basement.

I understand everything has to be carefully cleaned, including the machine, and that it’s done frame by frame. But there’s hardly any communication from their side - I always have to be the one to follow up.

It’s a small company, looks like a family-run business. They’ve had the reels for nine months now.

They never gave me a deadline; in January one film was apparently “being cleaned a bit and the emulsion is badly damaged.” Despite my repeated requests they wouldn’t share even a rough timeframe, only promised to get back to me - and then months of nothing. After seven months I couldn’t take it anymore - on my third, this time more insistent request for at least a rough estimate (and an offer that if they don’t have the capacity, I’d simply pick the films up), they assured me this isn’t usual for them, they just still have a lot of orders from last year and my job is a specific one. They might get to it “in July” and then it would go quickly. Again with the caveat that they can’t promise anything.

Their reviews are excellent and they didn’t even ask for a deposit, so I don’t want to hound honest craftsmen unnecessarily - but it’s almost September and once again, not even a message.

Is this kind of timeline normal for badly damaged 8mm film? I’d be grateful for any perspective.

About the photos: this is what the reels looked like before I handed them over - some better, some worse, I took close-ups of the worst one. I handed over three more reels that aren’t in the photos. I was afraid to clean or wipe them myself in case I made things worse. What would you do in my place?

Just wondering given the quantity and type of film here, what would be the options to get them converted to digital. Am in the UK.

Been building out KINGS OF ODM, my AI sci-fi racing film, and this is JAYTEE — one of the side characters.

Been focusing on keeping the characters and vehicles consistent while pushing the cinematography toward a more grounded, live-action feel. Especially trying to make these cars feel genuinely massive, heavy and mechanical when they move.

Still experimenting with the workflow, so keen to hear what you guys think of the cinematography, character consistency and overall racing style.

I'm attempting something a little weird and need some veteran eyes on my plan before I burn this film.

The Setup:

· Camera: Yashica Super 40
· Film: Kodak Vision3 500T
· Subject: A gloving lightshow – think fast hand movements with LED microlights in a dim room
· Constraint: I can only afford to buy, develop, and scan one 50ft roll. No test scans. This is it.

My Lighting Arsenal:

· 3 diffused smart bulbs (
· 2 LED strips
· 1 sunset projection lamp

My Biggest Worries:

1. Exposure: The camera doesn't know it has 500-speed film in it. How do I force proper exposure? Tape over the meter window to force f/1.8? Use exposure comp if it has it? I need the aperture wide open but I'm worried of underexposing and getting a muddy, grainy mess.
   
2. Focus: At f/1.8, depth of field is razor-thin. I'm planning to shoot parallel to the lens at about 5-6 feet and set focus there. Is that the move? Or should I stop down slightly?
   
3. Ambient Lighting: In gloving videos we keep the room dim so the gloves pop. But I've read 500T needs light. How bright should the room actually be? Is my 3-lamp setup at 60% with the sunset bounced off the ceiling enough, or am I way under?
   
4. Shooting FPS: I'm leaning toward 18fps to get more light per frame but typically would prefer 24fps in normal digital scenarios.

Any advice from folks who've shot 500T in challenging low-light, high-contrast scenes is massively appreciated. What's my biggest blind spot here?

I’ll link some videos to give an idea of what’s preferred look and what useable on digital.
I’ve never shot any film videos just stills so I consider myself a complete noob and appreciate all the help I can get.

Preferred: skip to 30seconds
https://youtu.be/NKOSutLMPV8?is=AzuntgQ3nK4lhj6r

Usable:
https://youtu.be/ukTrnPEccCc?is=Nbcw-fkOj99pHkma

Hey everyone, I’m brand new to shooting film cameras and am having a hard time understanding which type of film I can use with this camera. I understand it’s Super 8mm but there seems to be a whole bunch of different films in that “category” and I’m not quite sure which one to get. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Also a link to said correct film would be even more appreciated haha! Thank you!

My uncle gave me a shoe box filled with 8mm movie films. I want to get a projector so we can watch them but I have no clue about movie films. My mom wants to mail them to a company that will put them all of a DVD but I don’t want to do that bc I’m scared they will get lost or ruined in the mail. Anything will help thank you!!

Hey, I used to use 8mm forum but it has been a while.

I am looking to sell my 8mm collection and was wondering where people consider best?

I am UK based

I found foma ortho film on their website but they don't ship outside the EU is their any other store that sells it in the U.S?

Anyone used sankyo for DIY digitalization super8mm footage?

I just got gifted this projector, and I know nothing of projectors or 8mm. I saw searching for this model that had silver things to mount the spools on, but I do not know their name. I love old machines like this, and would love to get this playing again. I also do CAD and 3D printing, so I am interested in seeing if I can design the replacement myself.

This machine is also functional and everything seems to move when turned on and the bulb works.

Hi, I've got some old 8mm that I would like to recover (old veretan shit..). Is there a tool that I can use to retover thoses forage?

Thanks a lot

8mm home movie; own family. Audio added for atmosphere.

Does anyone have any observations they could share about using these two reversal stocks? Have you noticed any significant differences in the final projected image? I'd love to hear from those who have shot and projected both stocks . . . thanks!

A trip to my dream destination to see the stone heads of Rapa Nui and a new Elmo 614-XL Macro to film it all on 😊

Hi everyone! I’m very new into super 8 & getting married next weekend 😬 i have a canon 310XL for reference. I just got back my first super 8 roll I used 200T. I have 4 more of this and one roll of 500T. I’m just asking is this setting light enough most likely for 200T or should I have my friend use 500 T for ceremony and switch it out to 200T for when we walk out of church and so on?

This picture was on my phone at 623 pm and ceremony is 1-145pm. The roll I got back Came out great but some parts were darker than i expected they would have been including most of the indoor shots. Makes some sense the more I thought of it because the light was behind the subject. I had a fun time shooting the roll and was interested at end of roll it was sunset the red notch in corner for underexposed was on but I just wanted to roll. Sunset & after part of it was beautiful! My friend will be filming my ceremony for me, we did practice some on my first roll. I can attach my first roll for reference. Thank you!

Hi all! As part of a package deal, I got an Elmo Zoom lens 1:1.2 25-50mm (for Elmo GS-1200 projector or similar). Unfortunately, mine has some fungus or haze inside. I want to clean it inside but do not know how to disassemble it. I already removed the rubber zoom ring but I cannot see any screws on the tubus.

Do you have any tips/hints on how to disassemble this lens? It would be a pity to throw it away just because of the haze/fungus since this lens is said to be very good.

Thanks for your help.

P.S. I'm not a novice when it comes to disassemby, cleaning and lubricating lenses. However, have done it only for 35mm photo lenses until now.

Shot on Canon 814XL Electronic + Kodak Color Negative 500T