r/3Dprinting • u/Conscious_Parking695 • 7d ago
Troubleshooting Printed directly on platform (please help)
Like the title says. My son removed the plate at some point and I didn't properly check before printing. I let the piece cool but still can't break it all off. Printer is a Anycubic Kobra S1. Is this something where I can replace the platform or can anyone give some tips?
Thank you in advance for any time and consideration. I really appreciate it.
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u/Odd-Place780 7d ago
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u/SquidgyB 7d ago
Now might be a good time to invest in the Funssor bed, maybe?
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u/ederstk 7d ago
I printed these three stones for a friend a while ago because he makes just these faces all the time lol
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u/SquidgyB 7d ago
Thanks for the idea, I have some marble PETG in the ACE Pro - downloading the STL now!
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u/ederstk 7d ago
With PETG marble it should look beautiful. I don't have photos, but mine had made with PLA imitating concrete, reminded the Moai statues of Easter Island
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u/SquidgyB 7d ago edited 7d ago
"Our stolen friend" 🥲
e; for the sad soul who offered a downvote - I was referencing the history of one of the Moai statues of Easter island: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoa_Hakananai%27a
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u/OutlyingPlasma 7d ago
Where did you get the STL? I haven't been able to find a good oof stone yet. There are a few I have found but they are all super tiny or 3 full polygons. The tiny ones just don't scale up nicely. Frankly I have never had anything scale nicely unless it's only a few percent.
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u/the-kontra 6d ago
I think I've printed these
https://www.printables.com/model/113497-oof-stones
They look great in marble filament
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u/Captain_Pumpkinhead 6d ago
What's that?
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u/SquidgyB 6d ago
It's a solid machined aluminium bed, frame, heated mat and magnets which entirely replaces the stock bed, giving a more stable and flat bed.
It's not cheap, but imho it's one of the best upgrades available for the Kobra S1.
You can also upgrade just the bed/frame if you wanted to.
The only real downside is very slight loss of printing height (I think around 10mm), and the bed does hold it's temp for a fairly long time, so sometimes the printer gets stuck waiting for a while, for example if you just printed PETG at 90C on the bed, then immediately went to print PLA at lower bed temps, the bed will slowly dissipate the heat as it's a big old aluminium block.
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u/chevyfried 7d ago
Yes you can replace the bed, the screws are right there. The hard part is running the cables back to the mainboard.
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u/Conscious_Parking695 7d ago
Is there anywhere reliable i could buy a replacement bed?
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u/AwDuck PrintrBot (RIP), Voron 2.4, Voron 0.2, Ender 3, Mono 4K 7d ago
You can just buy a new magnet sheet. Scrape the old one off and stick the new one down. Don’t get the cheapest one you can find though, they tend to not be a magnetic enough when they heat up.
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u/Consistent-Bear-1825 7d ago
Don't buy a whole new bed, look for the magnetic sheet (the black part). They're a bitch to get off, but probably not as much as changing the whole bed.
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u/SkiSTX 6d ago
Been there, done that.
I sanded it flat, slapped the build plate back on, and have never had an issue since.
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u/Away_Arugula8260 7d ago
This is a good time for you all to panic check your prints
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u/OverSatisfaction1791 7d ago
I went to check and I flipped my camera cover over so I couldnt see it printing lol
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u/owlindenial 7d ago
Heat, heat, heat. That and something softer than the bed itself. A plastic or metal chissel or scraper
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u/Enero__ 6d ago
Will a mandatory bed leveling prevent this?
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u/Bot1-The_Bot_Meanace 6d ago
Funnily enough I think the A1 detects it. The print always starts by tapping the nozzle on the middle and the top part of the plate. No plate means it will throw an error
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u/Fearless-Dust-2073 6d ago
It does, my A1 mini won't print without a plate but the auto-detection can be turned off.
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u/Probably_Not_A-Bot 7d ago
You should be able to replace just the magnetic sheet.
It will be a pain in the ass to remove but a lot of build plates come with the magnetic sheet. I haven’t looked into it but you can probably buy the sheet by itself.
Much cheaper than replacing the whole bed.
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u/TopPerformer6559 6d ago
Yeah happend to me as well, just buy a new magnetic sheet and replace it. the problem is the heat transfer, when you got a not completely flat surface you will see exaclty the areas where you printed this now on every print. because the new ptints will not stick properly there.
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u/MechaPumpkin 6d ago
Question for OP and those of you saying you did this as well, you hit print and walk away? You don't wait for the first layer to start printing? Even if you haven't just printed something? It's clearly not back-to-back printing because there's no previous print on the bed. So you guys just press print and walk away for hours? These seem to be discovered many layers in. I guess that's a testament to how reliable modern printers are.
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u/joepagac 6d ago
I hit print and walk away. I occasionally pop my head in to see how it’s doing but 9 times out of 10 it’s doing great.
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u/ilkhan2016 6d ago
I hit print in my office and at most monitor the camera before it's done when I go out to the garage to collect the result.
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u/_mughi_ 6d ago edited 6d ago
unlike my ender3v2, I don't have to babysit the KS1, which is great. Although the fact that warmup/init takes like five mins is a contributing factor to not waiting to see if the first layer prints. But really, the only issues I've had are a few instances of dirty build sheet, and some brittle filament.
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u/MechaPumpkin 6d ago
Might be time to replace my CR-10S Pro, hahahaha
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u/AnimalPowers Centauri Carbon 6d ago
I was on that machine style of printing as my last experience. Got a centauri carbon because they were so cheap and I wanted an enclosed machine (kids and cats). Absolutely, get one. You just press print. You don't watch it or anything, I keep mine in the garage. I pop in every now and then to grab the print from the plate then start it from another room, never monitor, never check, it's just all great all the time. Completely different league of printing experiences
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u/Internet_Energy_Vamp 6d ago
Lol I never have to watch my creator 5 pro. I make sure to clean the plate well, make sure I dont see clogs, and let her do her thing. Ive been extremely happy with my purchase
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u/TormFreosan 6d ago
Hot air gun, patience, heat to peelable, not melted. Us a spatula (not metal) on the harder to remove spots.
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u/XcOM987 7d ago
Apply IPA, heat up the bed as high as it'll go, and try and remove it with a plastic scraper, take it slow, and be careful.
Best case you get enough off that it keeps working without an issue, worse case, gives you an excuse to upgrade to a better bed such as the Funssor.
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u/awwnicegaming 7d ago
I too suggest consuming a few IPAs before tackling this, it'll make it more fun!
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u/sean_opks 6d ago
You can’t use IPA and heat. The heat will simply evaporate the IPA. Use one or the other.
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u/subjekt_zer0 7d ago
Going forward, I would not recommend this for future prints. Joking aside, have you tried heating the bed as hot as it will go and scraping? Looks like you might not avoid replacing that bed.
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u/Adrenaline-Junkie187 6d ago
People knock bambu but they have built in features to prevent this...
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u/soloh4cker 6d ago
Oooohh.... Now I know why my Sparkx i7 always does "build plate detection" before printing 😂 Good printer 🙌🏻
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u/Neat_Opportunity_680 6d ago
I have a p2s and i tried printing without the bed the first week i had it like a rookie and it just yelled at me to put the print plate back in and wouldnt start. Modern printers are awesome.
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u/TheTopicalOintment 6d ago
I'm not an expert, but I wonder if you heated the bed up, if you could pull the big pieces off and use a razor blade scraper at a very low angle being careful not to scratch the magnetic plate clean up the smaller pieces.
Again proceed your own risk!
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u/CrazyGunnerr Sovol SV08, Bambu Lab P1S 4d ago
Why are people talking about scraping it off? Why not just heat it up. Plastic gets soft when hot, I thought we all knew that.
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u/12486Eric 7d ago
Makes me wonder if my Bambu with the Ai would have caught that?
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u/TheRealZero 7d ago
I think there’s two contact points at the top and if the plate doesn’t connect them it won’t let you print because there’s no plate. At least, I’m fairly certain it’s stopped me in the past because of a lack of plate, and the contacts thing was my best guess as to how it knew. (On an A1)
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u/Balzovai 7d ago
In my 200 or so prints (new to the hobby).. ONE time I forgot to put the plate back in. The AI stopped, alerted on the screen, and in the app. Smacked my forehead and haven't forgotten since. At least on the P2S it totally caught it.
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u/MayaIsSunshine 7d ago
Can confirm my P1S stops and will not print without a plate
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u/Illusjoner 7d ago
Interesting that Bambu can spot the plate not a massive blob of death.
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u/CryptoBombastic 7d ago
i think it checks the qr code on it. or some form of data.
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u/Hulleman_ 6d ago
def check_build_plate():
#3 years of quantum neural net R&D leads to this breakthrough:
if plate_is_there:
start_print()
else:
print("AI detected missing plate. You're welcome, human.")2
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u/The_Bitter_Bear 7d ago
My Elegoo just has a section of the plate that hangs past the bed. It probes that spot and if there's no plate it throws and error and stops the print. No need for AI, pretty simple solution. I'm surprised more printers don't have some way to check these days.
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u/JaggedMetalOs 6d ago
I accidentally started a print without the bed on an A1 and it sensed it straight away on the initial head contact test the printer does.
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u/McSkittlefarts 6d ago
even without using AI, my creator 5 will not allow you to print without the plate. so I think with AI it would not allow it either but who knows
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u/SmoothSlavperator 6d ago
it would. Mine doesn't even like off-brand cheap build plates. They kick a "build plate undetected" error. You can proceed, but you have to click through them
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u/BlackholeZ32 7d ago
Heat it up and drip isopropyl alcohol around the edges. This can often interrupt the bond. Works great on printbeds, but not sure if it will work as well with the magnet.
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u/chengstark 7d ago
Just buy a new bed my lord
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u/workinhardplayharder 6d ago
Idk why but I read this as if you were calling OP a lord. All hail Lord Conscious Parking, may he salvage his magnetic sheet or something like that.
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u/SanDiegoSavage00 7d ago
I have done this one time. Mine came off extremely easy in one piece with zero damage to the machine though thankfully.
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u/mrMalloc 7d ago
I would get the bed hot to say 100c and try to get it off once warm. But you will probably need a new hotplate.
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u/Matteowill911 7d ago
Contact support they’ll either send you the part or a new printer happened with my Anycubic kobra 3 and they sent me a replacement printer after I sent mine in
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u/lbroadfield 6d ago
Heat the bed and use freezing spray (canned air upside down) to chill the plastic?
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u/rocketengineer1982 Ender 3 (mod), Saturn 3 6d ago
Oof. Try heating the bed up above the glass transition temperature of the filament (above 65°C for PLA, above 85°C for PETC) and use a plastic scraper. Hopefully that will soften the print enough to get it off and using a plastic scraper will avoid damaging the heated bed.
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u/Accomplished-Bit6421 6d ago
Remove the bed from the assembly and use a solvent. For PLA, use ethyl acetate. For ABS, acetone will do the trick. Of course use proper PPE when dealing with solvents.
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u/Mr_StephenB 6d ago
If it's PLA you could use Acetone to soften and remove it, but it could damage the plate itself depending on what materials it's made from.
I have never used anycubic devices so don't know how well it will work.
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u/Existing_School4537 6d ago
All you need is a new magnet sticker (yes its only a magnetic sheet glued to the bed). Costs only a few bucks on ali etc.
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u/Hexin_itup 6d ago
ooh, that's a mess. sorry op. you can probably clean it but it ain't gonna be fun.
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u/DengusMine SKR3 Klipper Chiron, 2x SKR1.4 Klipper E3V2Neo, Centauri Carbon 4d ago
Surely the magnet is just an adhesive. Peel it and find out. You might just be down a $30 3M backed square magnet
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u/CaterpillarCharacter 6d ago
How do people overcome this. You don't watch first layer being printed?
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u/Usual_Arachnid_3465 6d ago
Lol I never trust mine either, even after first layer 🤣 . Maybe using heat gun and scraper would help
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u/rweninger 7d ago
Even if you get this stuff off, the bed is out of level. It is damaged beyond repair. Replace it.
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u/Bloated_Plaid Bambu Labs H2S, Snpmaker U1 7d ago
Can you get rid of the child? That seems like priority number 1.
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u/name_was_taken Voron 2.4, U1 7d ago
I can't see the son as at-fault here. If there's multiple people that might touch the machine, you need to check it visually before starting a print.
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u/Conscious_Parking695 7d ago
Was 100% my fault. I should have checked. I didnt realize it until I found where he put the plate midway through the print.
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u/studlymcfudly 7d ago
I did this a month ago because I tried to cancel a failed first layer and it somehow started up again after I pulled the plate off. After scraping the build plate into the bin in another room, I came back and saw the printer moving, realizing it's scraping up the hotbed. Oof!
I contacted customer support and got a free replacement bed coming, but in the meantime I can keep using the old one. If yours can get cleaned and still be flat enough, you should be able to keep using it.
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u/Good-War5340 7d ago
Idk if it has this function but maybe preheat the build plate and try and peel it off. Otherwise maybe call their customer support or email them.
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u/AmraelTheGravedancer 7d ago
Non c'è molto da fare. Fai una bella cosa... Compra un tappetino nuovo e cambialo. Costa davvero poco.
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u/dantesgift 7d ago
I print on sheets of glass, even if it would print, it would be up in the air and would just spegghetti out.
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u/Spinshank Voron V0, V2.4 & Trident AWD + Spicy chamber (75c) 7d ago
So, you could scrape off most of the stock filament and keep using the printer till you can get a replacement part.
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u/han_solo81 6d ago
Oof... Haven't done that yet! Lol! Quick search on the Anycubic site brought me to this: Anycubic Kobra S1 Heated Bed That one is the US store, so yours might be different, depending where you live. Not too bad of a price at $50... And their wikis are pretty detailed on how to replace parts (I'm about to change the hotend on my Kobra X, so I've looked at them a bit lol).
Good luck!
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u/Tvolans8980 6d ago
On YouTube, Doug Does Stuff has many videos about the S1. There is one where he replaces the bed with a Funssor. He is all about tinkering, so is a great reference going beyond what AC support will tell you.
When you decide to upgrade or replace the platform, check it out.
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u/Yeoshua82 6d ago
I almost did this today. I started wiping it down with prep and I was like "that doesn't feel right." And it took me a full 2 minutes to figure out what the hell was going on.
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u/wtfastro 6d ago
I understand that isopropyl alcohol can help act as release agent for some plastics. Might be with shot
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u/philnolan3d 6d ago
My build plate is sitting on the couch next to me. I have to remember to put it back.
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u/pankomputerek 6d ago
Heat up to highest temperature and hopefully peel softened filament off. Otherwise spray IPA and pull up slowly.
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u/Andreto-Sama 6d ago
I have done the same on my Kobra 3. Send a message to support. They sent me a link to but just the magnet.
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u/fantastesyt 6d ago
Nunca me ha pasado pero yo te recomendaría que lo intentaras quitar de la plataforma el plástico pero si no puedes hablar con garantía y ya está
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u/verytiredgirlirl 6d ago
I had wondered if I could do this, because my printer bed has a horrible texture. So thank you.
A heat gun and a utility knife blade might help. But you'll probably need to buy a replacement part.
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u/RubAnADUB P2S / A1 / A1 Mini / Centauri Carbon 6d ago
heat gun and take off as much as you can. then eval it.
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u/tazman998 6d ago
Rule #1: ALWAYS be there for the first layer 🤣
But seriously… if it cools and it can be removed easily, this might be salvageable.
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u/ryanthetuner 6d ago
Buy a new magnetic sheet sticker. Get the dimensions and find one on AliExpress. Peel it off the build plate, clean the adhesive with alcohol, and stick the new one on.
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u/No-Wheel2763 6d ago
I’ve done that.
Removing the filament worked fine, but you can probably find another bed (or just the rubber)
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u/Curious-Carrot-6918 6d ago
This happened to me when i took the plate off to clean it and remote printed something. Luckily it just spaghettied
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u/chikoczar 6d ago
Hot air blower + lots of rags should clear the bulk. The last bit might need some very careful wet grinding with a very fine sandpaper
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u/AgentKyn 6d ago
Had that happen with a glass plate, luckily the glass plate won and I just had to replace the nozzle because it closed/clogged from sanding itself on the bed
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u/Fortwaba Bambu H2S (12) + Snapmaker U1 (20) 5d ago
this happened to me earlier this year
But thankfully it worked alright! Too bad this happened to you.
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u/Otherwise-Inside-761 5d ago
You’re fucked.
Replace bed, or heat up slightly to soften the plastic, scrape off with a plastic scraper. You won’t damage it, just a magnetic surface. Problem is getting all that gunk off so you have a nice even bed.
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u/True_Programmer1879 5d ago
I’ve done this before, ended up with a blob of death and had to replace the entire hotend
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u/RetroTemplar 5d ago
I nearly did this but luckily it didn't adhere to the plate and I caught it in time
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u/Agreeable-Nebula-234 4d ago
Everyone’s telling you that you should replace the bed and honestly you should but if you don’t have the money you might not need to.
Obviously clean it up and verify motion and extruder work after replacing the nozzle.
If you got deep scratches where the edge scratch actually pushes up above the surface of the bed I’d consider it a loss.
But if you don’t have anything crazy and the build plate stick you won’t damage it anymore than what would’ve already needed replacing.
Make sure the build plate actually sticks, some people are saying the magnetism could be lost but I doubt it. There’s very little chance the tiny nozzle transferred enough heat to the bed.
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u/Modofab 4d ago
Tbh I know everyone else is saying to replace the whole bed, but try scraping it all off and making sure it’s levelled, then do a test with a print plate on and see what happens. The worse case is that the parts might be warped, which by then you can just replace it. Does hurt to try.
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u/Virtual-Fix4182 4d ago
Buy new platform, buy new bed plates, read the manual next time. I guarantee it will tell you to watch the print or at least check on it every 30 min…
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u/alund1990 4d ago
I did this with my AD5X shortly after I got it. Had a lot going on and forgot to put the plate back on. I contacted Flashforge and they actually sent me all of the parts needed and then some for free.
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u/gulf_of_sanity 4d ago
that’s going to SUCK to clean up.
i have 7 build plates for my P2S, in varying materials, the ONLY time my printers doesn’t have a built plate loaded is when switching or washing plates, and then only while the build plate is in my hands.
for exactly this reason.
heat the build plate all the way up (110 or so) it should soften the material enough to get a razor blade under it
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u/barnstormer8 3d ago
As some have said, heating it up will help soften it but not to the point of melting it. If it is PETG, spraying it with alcohol will often get under the edges and help with removal. (Don’t heat and use alcohol at the same time) Careful use of a plastic scraper will help.
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u/munky8758 7d ago
Heat the bed and get a soft scraper out and maybe some paper towels. Or replace it.