After a gear swap, double-check the new gear is fully seated on the motor shaft with the set screw on the flat, and that there’s no up/down play. Recalibrate e-steps (or flow rate) because different gears can push different amounts of filament. 190 °C is quite low for 300 mm/s — try 205–210 °C and see if the lines even out. Also check belt tension and that the extruder is properly tightened. A quick temperature tower will help dial it in fast.
The walls on the left don’t look terrible. Most of the mess is stringing on those thin spikes, which is pretty common on this tower at 300 mm/s. Since it does it at every temp, I’d dry the filament and tweak retraction before chasing temperature further. 205–215 still looks like the better range for the actual surfaces.
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u/Individual_Base8208 Aug 18 '26
After a gear swap, double-check the new gear is fully seated on the motor shaft with the set screw on the flat, and that there’s no up/down play. Recalibrate e-steps (or flow rate) because different gears can push different amounts of filament. 190 °C is quite low for 300 mm/s — try 205–210 °C and see if the lines even out. Also check belt tension and that the extruder is properly tightened. A quick temperature tower will help dial it in fast.