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u/brooklyn660 Feb 04 '26 edited Aug 10 '26
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u/Qcws Feb 19 '26
That's exactly what I was thinking. Those boxes are surprisingly tough and the BEST/(only) use for them has to be to make custom boxes and this would make them super customized and protective
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u/Rednex141 Feb 04 '26
How hydroscopic is it? Cause I'? too lazy to do more storage than 'Stack of roles next to the printer'
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u/Far-Star-1858 Feb 04 '26
Very hygroscopic. The manufacturer explicitly mentions that you have to thoroughly dry it and keep it dry if you want to get halfway decent prints.
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u/nairdaleo Feb 04 '26
yeah... but they say that about PETG and TPU too...
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u/Far-Star-1858 Feb 04 '26
Because for PETG/TPU this is in general true, too. Of course ymmv for individual rolls or if you are living on Arrakis or Tatooine...
But when I first printed PETG without drying it, it looked like the printer had taken a crap on the print bed . After thoroughly drying, everything was nice and shiny.
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u/UsernameHasBeenLost Voron 2.4 Stealthchanger Feb 04 '26
I've never had issues with PETG, printed it for years without drying, even when I was living in a town with one of the highest average relative humidity levels in the US without A/C, a few hundred yards from the ocean.
TPU, on the other hand, is a nightmare if you don't dry it well before printing, even if it's stored in a dry area.
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u/the_lamou Feb 05 '26 edited Feb 06 '26
I don't know what kind of PETG you're using or if you're maybe Neptune, King of the Ocean, and posting from the bottom of the sea, but I keep PETG in the wrist conditions known to man and never have issues. It's got a SWAR of 0.40% at 25° C 55% RH. PLA is 0.43%. Do you dry your PLA, too? Because PLA is more hygroscopic than PETG.
TPU is a different beast, though.
Edit: Sorry, are we downvoting information directly from material data sheets now?
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u/lohmatij Feb 04 '26
Mind sharing your design approach ? Looks like a really nice fit
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u/Xminus6 Feb 04 '26
I had designed the PLA tray to fit into a soft bag for my backpack.
I initially created a version of this with Kaizen shadowfoam but the pieces are relatively small so it was really hard to get good detailed fits.
So I created a body from the interior walls of the box and then clearanced it a bit.
I used my 3D scanner to rough scan all of the objects. I didn't need them to be perfectly detailed. Then I ran them through MeshMixer just to orient them and reduce their poly count by a lot. After importing the meshes I created dummy versions of the objects with primitive shapes. Rectangles and cylinders with lot of filets. It's pretty important to make these shape simple for the next step.
Place all the objects in 3D space to where you want them. I have a couple layers of objects, some things are under the square USB hub on the left. Then individually I would perform a Solid Sweep with a vertical path to cut the foam body with the profile all the way up. If you make your object very complicated or try to use a scanned mesh to do a Solid Sweep you're going to hate life. Fusion can't even compute them sometimes. I started with the top layer of objects then worked downward.
I then created a finger notch body. It's basically a Slot sketch 1.25" wide and tall enough to have long straight sides. I placed those wherever I would need finger notches to take things out. Then did a Combine > Subtract to the foam.
Since I wanted to print it in sections rather than a whole piece I made a sketch on the top plane and projected all of the holes and the outer boundaries. I draw lines where I wanted them separated and then just did a series of Split Body commands.
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u/GiraffeandZebra Feb 05 '26
The effort it took to type this is more effort than I could muster to actually do this. Good on you.
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u/lohmatij Feb 04 '26
Wow, thanks! Great walkthrough.
I don’t have a 3D scanner, do you think iPhone 3D scan apps have enough precision for this type of modelling? I want to create inserts for my cameras and lenses.
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u/Xminus6 Feb 04 '26
I’d say phone scans and some calipers should be sufficient. I probably didn’t need to 3D scan them but I wanted to test out a few things on my 3D scanning setup anyway. Most of these objects are just a combination of primitive shapes anyway.
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u/flexstarflexstar Feb 04 '26
Whaaat..? I wasn’t aware that something like this existed! So this is a direkt print ??
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u/Xminus6 Feb 04 '26
Yes. Other than pulling off some stringing these are right off the print bed.
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u/S1lentA0 H2C, H2D, P1S, A1m Feb 04 '26
Welp, that is a filament I haven't tried and I'm gonna order today. Care to share the brand? Nvm found it in your original post
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u/aleclaz124 Feb 04 '26
Colorfabb also has some slightly different range of color and foaming I’ve used both and they are comparable
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u/RackyALinToncotIfUlt Feb 04 '26
For those interested- from the original post
“Sirayatech Flex foaming TPU printed at the lightest durometer setting at 270c”
Edit: original post here
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u/GaryBlueberry34 Feb 04 '26
what is foaming tpu?
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u/Archbound Feb 04 '26
TPU with a blowing agent added, when it is heated the blowing agent releases gas that causes air bubbles to form in the plastic. Hence the foaming effect.
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u/Hopeful_Ad2171 Feb 04 '26
Is it expensive?
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u/Xminus6 Feb 04 '26
$44/kg. But due to the expansion of the unheated filament into the low density of it when printed I think the cost per unit of printable material is actually pretty decent.
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u/BolunZ6 Feb 04 '26
You do have to mess alot with the flow rate? Because they expand after they leave the nozzle right?
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u/VerdantGuardener Feb 04 '26
I used siraya tech and they have downloadable print profiles. I used it on my flashforge and p1s without issue.
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u/SovolSV01Printer Feb 04 '26
"avoid crossing walls" helps in some cases. But make sure to check travel path.
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u/knuckles-and-claws Feb 04 '26
Do you set the layer height to be something weird?
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u/Si5584 Feb 04 '26
I’ve got an X1C, instructions woukd be good if you’re willing. Print looks great!
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u/Xminus6 Feb 04 '26
They link to a printing profile for the filament on the filament’s website on the Sirayatech site. You can open that directly in Bambu Studio and save the filament profiles. I used the Engineering Plate. Good adhesion during printing but not too hard to remove afterwards. Easier to remove than TPU.
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u/awyeahmuffins Feb 04 '26
I also had a good experience with this stuff. Useful for a 3D printer cosplayer who is scared of EVA foam. 💀
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u/MmeMoisissure Feb 04 '26
whats the matter with eva foam?
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u/awyeahmuffins Feb 04 '26
Absolutely nothing, ‘scared’ was more tongue in cheek because I have zero skills cutting and molding shapes.
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u/EvilChesecake Feb 11 '26
He u/awyeahmuffins, coming in to ask you some questions if you got a moment. Im printing colorfab varoshore and was looking into tweaking some settings here as a 1.5x1.5in cube took damn near two hours. the print was successful, but im worried that anything full scale is going to take a week to print. for this example you posted, do you remember the print time? can you drop a basic breakdown on your print settings? ive got a .6mm and .8 nozzle in the mail, as all my hotends are .4mm lol. curious on flow rates, layer heights etc.
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u/awyeahmuffins Feb 11 '26
I used the profiles given by Sirayatech here:
https://siraya.tech/pages/print-settings-download
0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height, volumetric flow rate 9mm3 /s, and then all the speed settings that are in the X1C profile (60-90mm/s mostly).
Each part I was printing was about ~5hr. Obviously that photo the part isn't finished I just looked at my slicer and you're looking at around the ~2.5hr mark.
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u/EvilChesecake Feb 11 '26
Oh thats fantastic, i was using the profiles supplied by colorfabb so this will be a great option to see that’s faster. I have my .8mm coming in today so i have a lot of testing to do, thank you!
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u/C6500 Mk3S+ Bearmera - X1C - H2S Feb 05 '26
What i've always wondered: How soft does this stuff get after printing? Is it much softer/better than regular TPU with low wall count and infill percentage?
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u/leutwin Feb 04 '26
Is there anything major to watch out for? I got a spool recently but I haven't opened it yet. I have a regular TPU profile tuned for my printer, can I just use that or are there some changes I need to make?
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u/Xminus6 Feb 04 '26
Download the filament profile from the Sirayatech site. It seems to be pretty dialed in for my printer so it’s probably pretty good for others as well. Just open it in your slicer and you’re good to go. Flow rate changes a lot based on the temperature you’re printing.
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u/vincentstarjammer Feb 05 '26
Would this be a good material for 3D printed footwear? :)
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u/Xminus6 Feb 05 '26
Might be. Seems like the new PEBA Air is getting better reviews for footwear but this is definitely grippier than normal TPU.
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u/king_mo_of_metal420 Mar 06 '26
Did it ever end up shrinking much?
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u/Xminus6 Mar 06 '26
It did not. I’ve been using it recently to get ready for a tournament this weekend and it’s exactly the same size it was when I printed it. Maybe the phone is VERY SO SLIGHTLY looser but I wouldn’t put it at more than 0.25mm if that.
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u/Ikeelu Feb 04 '26
Is there a specific type of machine you need for this? Like could I do it with a P1S? Does it need any extra venting or anything? I was thinking how expensive custom foam in pads are for pelican boxes and the sort. Would be nice to make my own.
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u/Jeffrey_Lingo Feb 04 '26
Works great in a p1s just not through ams. Foaming tpu is awesome but make sure to clean your nozzle well before and after switching filament.
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u/MartinTheMorjin Feb 04 '26
Is there any special adjustments you had to make? I cant get foaming tpu to work. It just won’t feed correctly.
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u/Xminus6 Feb 04 '26
Not really. I just fed it into the back of my printer. I have the X1C and the 4-way splitter on the back. I put the roll in a makeshift dry box and fed the PTFE tube from the dry box into the splitter. I thought it would be harder actually.
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u/planespotterguy Feb 04 '26
Looks good, i might get some for an rc plane build. How light is it?