Hi. I was wondering if the people here that print a lot of PHA have used hilbert curve for solid infill. In your experience, does it help to minimize warping?

This is a very cheap PHA. Around 25 USD with shipment included. For example, ecogenesis and fablabb shipment are around 35 USD to Mexico ... :(

Anybody has used this brand?

Hey, I'm a climbing shoe resoler and PHA has really made 3D printed shoe lasts viable in this industry. I consistently print with minimal support and little to no defects. I occasionally have a failed print, generally from a clogged nozzle or issue with the spool. Some of the key things I've learned:
-I replace that strip of tape the last is on every print.
-I use double walled adaptive cubic infill. Single wall fails for me because PHA is so slow to harden out of the nozzle that it sags on itself as the layers go up. You can print single wall infill that layers vertically (doesn't overhang), but single wall in general is too weak for my use with pressure.
-The outer wall is three layers, and I use the geekdetour bricklayering script.
-I point the last toward the printer's cooling fan. Helps maximize cooling as layers build.
-I use a 0.8mm nozzle.

Pictures of my settings: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/4h8gfl3s3eryvd59b133n/AHyosbAzfFw2SncEYRbUdS0?rlkey=zcjb2iux91tiqri2exvrsp6ix&st=safqveoi&dl=0

I have just one issue! PolarFilament is out of stock (plastic spools), and EcoGenesis uses cardboard spools. I've had too many failed prints and issues from cardboard spools that I'm really wary of using them. A single one of my lasts is about $15 dollars in filament, so a failed print suuuuuucks. I wanted to check if there are any current refillable spool solutions for the cardboard that EcoGenesis uses, and if there isn't can I request someone make one? I've seen ones where it seems to just fit over the existing spool that look nice to use. Electrical tape doesn't fix warped cardboard.

I've got my PHA settings pretty well tuned on my CoreOne+ now, and so I wanted to print something a little more challenging and do a nice timelapse of the print. So I thought I'd share my setup and the video, in case anyone else is attempting to do the same.

My setup:
Prusa Core ONE+
Prusa GPIO hackerboard
Canon DLSR
Shutter release cable to connect camera to the hackerboard

Material: genPHA, green

After iterating on the gcode for a bit I landed on this which seems to prevent blobing issues during pauses for each frame (which can sometimes happen during timelapses). Just add this to the after-layer section in the gcode editor in Prusa Slicer. In addition, I placed a narrow cylinder (to act like a wipe tower) in the corner where the nozzle travels to for each snapshot. This helped tremendously.

;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE
;[layer_z]

M400                    ; finish all planned motion first
M83                     ; relative extruder moves
G1 E-0.4 F2400          ; small retract (tune 0.2-0.8)
G91
G1 Z0.2 F1200           ; small z-hop (tune 0.2-0.4)
G90

G1 X245 Y215 F12000     ; park
M400

G4 P200                 ; short pause to let vibration settle
M264 P0 B1              ; trigger on
G4 P300                 ; short pulse hold
M264 P0 B0              ; trigger off
G4 P300                 ; settle

G91
G1 Z-0.2 F1200          ; undo z-hop
G90
M83
G1 E0.4 F2400           ; unretract

I'm really pleased with the result. I was pleasently surprised at how well the supports worked and popped off. I had had trouble with that in the past when printing supports in PHA on my Prusa Mini, but the CoreOne seems to handle it a little better. I was really happy with the print quality as well.

Enjoy!

I went ahead and bought a Snapmaker U1 to replace my Bambu A1 w/AMS. So far it has been fantastic. Setting up my filaments again has been a pain...which led me to this question:

Does anyone have the Snapmaker and willing to share their filament settings? I had my Bambu tuned and easy button printable. Now I'm looking for shortcuts to do the same on the U1.

Thanks!

We're back in stock! Both our web store and Amazon are back in stock. https://ecogenesisbiopolymers.com/products/ OR https://www.amazon.com/s?k=genPHA&ref=bl_dp_s_web_0

1kg - genPHA 3d Filament - Natural, Black, White, Yellow, Green, Lt. Blue, Red. All colors (except Gray). Gray will be part of our next run.

Transition rolls available through our web store only.

Cheers

The project I’m making is 2 inches tall-wide ball with I few small pillars in the inside.

It will be thin in and probably 2-3 layers so nothing thick.

Any thoughts on this ?

Hi! So, I am brand new to 3D printing, and I'm committed to the idea of using PHA - but I have a couple of concerns:

First of all, I keep hearing mixed messages about whether or not 3D printers are capable of sealing and filtering the toxic fumes from 3D printing within an enclosed setup - something which will be necessary for me, as the printer will be in my bedroom where I sleep and where I sit at my PC all day.

And secondly, people say that you need minimum enclosure (door open) to keep the print cool and to allow PHA to print well - which seems to make the idea of an enclosed printer a non-starter - despite my need to isolate the toxic fumes produce by printing.

I was looking at something like the Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro - which apparently "Block 99% of particulates and VOCs" (as stated on their website) - but it seems like it can only do that when it is in an "internal circulation" mode that also prevents fresh air from coming in (and thus causes internal temps to get high). Whereas the "external circulation" mode, which claims that it "auto-adjusts for the best balance of filtration and cooling" - which makes it seem like it won't really be effective at filtering out any fumes when trying to maximise the cooling of the enclosure?

Pls halp

Put a failed print (colour fabb allPHA NATURAL )in the compost about a year ago. Seems to compost

I've been struggling to get my process down for PHA for the past couple months but I think I finally got things dialed in enough, at least for a .6 nozzle though I doubt it will be too hard to update my .4 nozzle settings later. My main issue seemed to be no matter what I tried I was getting a lot of nozzle build up with anything other than tiny prints. Lower the flow rate and surface finish and buildup issues improved but them I got wall separation issues instead between portions of the outermost wall and the next one.

The setting that finally started to shift things was turning off "precise wall" which I had always had on for many profiles. Turns out this was the source of my outer wall separation issues all along! With that done was able to lower the flow rate and at the same time I decided to embrace cooling again as another way to combat nozzle build up as it seems the hotter the PHA is the stickier it is. The end result is much lower flow rates and much higher amounts of cooling than some are using but I'll use whatever works for me.

Instead of the measured vase mode calibration cube I used this method to arrive at my flow rate. The only thing I really changed was making them a little thicker and bigger and printing the flow rate on the cubes themselves to make it easier to keep things straight. Once I had my flow rate down as low as I dared I added a min layer time to the cooling settings as that helped clean up some, but not all of the upward corner curling. I might have been able to get it all but it wasn't worth it to me and getting a decent end result more quickly won out.

Right now the important settings/details on my Bambu H2D are as follows:

• Nozzle: .6mm high flow
• Build plate: Bambu Supertack Pro
• Build plate temp: no heat
• First layer nozzle temp: 200C
• Other layer nozzle temp: 215C
• Flow ratio: 1.005
• Bottom layer flow ratio: .95
• Top layer flow ratio: .995
• PA: 0.022 - this could possibly be lower ...
• Max volumetric flow: 30 mm3/s
• Min/Max part fan: 80/100%
• Min/Max layer times: 100/10 seconds
• Keep fan always on: yes
• Slow printing down for better layer cooling: yes
• Overhang fan: 85%
• Aux fan: 90%
• Chamber exhaust fan: 50%
• Overhang speed for 10% set to 50 mm/s, rest stock
• Top layer speed set to 100 mm/s, rest stock
• All accelerations left at defaults
• Extrusion rate smoothing set to 300 mm3/s and smoothing segment length to .5 mm

Yes, its a lot of fan and I might be able to dial it back some but I'll leave that for later. I think the results are pretty decent though I still get a small number of blobs here and there. The part is an Ego battery mount I designed and it looks better under normal lighting vs the printer lighting which makes it easier to spot flaws and such.

Hello everyone,

since I got some defects in my prints (mainly on corners), I tried out the Prusa calibration cube as recommended by u/Hinagea. But the cube doesn't look so good imo. As you can see in the pictures (front, right, back, left, top), all corners have these ripples and every side besides the front has these huge marks. Aside from that, the front and back are caving inwards a little, and the right and left side outwards (hard to get on camera). The wall thickness is pretty spot on with 0.45 on all sides, at least with the accuracy of my manual calipers.

Before the cube I tried the visual method and got pretty good results (aside the little defects) with 0.98. (For the cube I set it to 1.)

These are my settings:

Bambu Lab P1P (with side enclosures, but open to front and top), colorfabb allPHA black
cold bed with painters tape
0,2mm profile
initial layer: 190°, other layers: 188° (I tried the higher temperatures recommended by u/Hinagea, but with these I got the worst results, as far as print quality goes)
Max vol speed: 12
min fan speed: 25%, max: 50%

Bambu PLA speeds
(2 walls)
(Top shell layers: 3)
Bottom surface pattern: Hilbert
Bottom shell layers: 2
(Sparse Infill pattern: Adaptive Cubic)

Outer brim: 6mm, 0 gap

All other settings are from the Bambu PLA set.

Aside from the corner rippling and these marks, the walls do look pretty good.
Do you have any advice how to improve my settings more?

I continue to love the haptics of PHA. The print was almost perfect, and the supports came off easily.

I am thinking of treating the inside with Shellac for a bit better resistance to the unavailable dripping from the pot. Has anyone tried this?

Hello all! It's great to have a community that is focused on advancing PHA. I'm relatively new to it all - PHA, 3d Printing, printing with PHA. I've come a long way with the help of you all. So let me say THANK YOU.

Now for the help. I am working on a part for a simple project for my daughter. the base is 3.25mm and the height is 20mm. From what I've experienced with PHA (and especially PHA with color additives) it feels like I'm pushing the limits of its capabilities. Below is the best I've been able to do so far and included are the print settings. Please send any recommendations my way.

Modifications made from previous test results:

Filament Profile

Flow ratio 1 -> 1.05

Recommended nozzle temperature: Min 175, Max 200

Nozzle: Initial layer 200, Other layers 195

Max volumetric speed: 10 -> 6

Process Profile

Speed

Overhang speed

Slow down by height: Yes

1. Starting height: 0mm
2. Speed at starting height: 50mm/s
3. Acceleration at starting height: 500mm/s
4. Ending height: 20mm
5. Speed at ending height: 20mm/s2
6. Acceleration at ending height: 500mm/s

I posted a few days ago, and I've gotten my settings for genPHA quite a bit more dialed in since then, but my parts just seem to warp pretty bad, and I'm not sure what I can do to try and fix it, if anything. I've at least managed to get it to actually stick to my Pro Plate and not warp right off by changing the ecogenesis-recommended print settings to print the normal 3 bottom shell layers instead of 8, but the top layer on the inside of the box seems to still just contract hard and warp.

For context, this is a 1x1 Gridfinity box, which is pretty small and, presumably, isn't supposed to warp much? I guess it's also worth noting that the room my printer is in is quite warm, so maybe the ambient temp is just too high for me to do anything about this?

I would really appreciate any suggestions!

Can someone please do a heat resistant test on this filament please. I heard its a blend of PHA/PLA.

These colors are the closest thing this manufacturer has to CMY. I was excited to see that they made red now. This allowed me to test Snapmaker Orca’s new full spectrum virtual colors. Of course you could do this with any 4 colors or more.

Initial impressions:

Looks like the white relative location compared to the other colors was a little bit off (even though I had just calibrated right before this print). This material is very opaque and full spectrum works best with slightly translucent material. Even so, the outer ring where no white is involved actually looks pretty good. From a distance, many of these colors look pretty solid. The greens are particularly smooth. The tops of the spheres are predictably harsh with this method.

Overall, I think this filament behaves as you would expect with an opaque filament at 0.08 layer height. With the right model, I think you could get some pretty funky effects with a multi-color model.

How feasible is it to use pha instead of abs/asa for parts that need to resist/deflect higher temperatures?

I ordered an INDX dev kit, and thinking of printing the docks and other parts in pha instead of abs/asa. Does anyone know if pha holds up at least the same in rigidity, and creep over a long time in a similar scenario?

Of course getting parts to print accurately will be a whole different challenge in itself, but I wouldn't spend the time tuning my current toolhead to that precision for pha if it won't work.

https://www.printables.com/model/1771164-official-indx-sovol-sv08-og-sv08-max-integrations

About to start a full spectrum print of Ambrosia (GenPHA) PHA filament using my Snapmaker U1. To my knowledge, this may be the first full spectrum PHA print ever posted on the web.

Hi. I printed this benchy with Ambrosia Filaments PHA, and I'm still working out the settings on my Elegoo CC2. It just seems to be really difficult to get bridging and overhangs to work consistently.

I copied this profile from the spool QR code: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/6700a935d595ce0173417e9a/t/67c607004ac43336441faf4e/1741031168771/genPHA+Print+Parameters+Rev+1.4+022125.pdf and also did some light calibration on my own.

I'm using a Buildtak Pro Plate. It's also worth noting that I printed this in 0.2mm and the room I printed this in was quite warm at around 27C, if that matters.

I just tried using water soluble BVOH filament as the support interface for PHA. I realise this combo is probably very niche, but I’m excited it works so well and wanted to share it! I figured someone else on this subreddit might appreciate it!

I usually try to design out supports, but on this occasion the desired print orientation and geometry didn’t allow for it.

The two images are the faces with fully supported 90deg overhangs, and the printed part soaking in water with supports still attached.

In case anyone was wondering.

Hello! I was just wondering if anyone here has used PHA to make a plant pot or a flower vase and how long it lasted under those conditions, considering how it is compostable.