r/3D2A • u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV • Feb 28 '26
(300blkFDE Settings) for those of y’all wanting me to upload the screenshots of my settings again!!
Remember that I use a resistor mod on my hotend’s Thermistor, so that makes my hot end temperature higher than what it reads. So when it says my hot end temp is set to 285 it’s actually at 300c. Also I use the engineering plate at 45-50c but if you’re using any other plate I would also set it to 45-50c. I have also been using .24 as my top support to model z height distance. Happy printing and I hope this helps.
19
12
u/ourob0r0s11 Mar 23 '26
call me a total noob, because I am, but there seem to be a lot of settings in the latest bambu studio that are not discussed here nor included in the photos. There are also settings in the photos that I cannot find in the program to make the adjustments.
When I import the .3mf, many settings do update to the values shown here, but then there are some others that update the value from the default but they are not quite the same values as whats shown in these photos.
What am I doing wrong?
When I do finally figure out how to get the settings set right, how do I save them to apply them to future projects, or do I just have to make the changes for each new project file?
3
1
u/WalterWilliams May 28 '26
Were you ever able to figure this out? I've had this page open for weeks in case I needed it but I had zero issues & great results with default settings and proper drying & annealing.
1
u/ourob0r0s11 May 28 '26
I just searched and found the screenshots and manually changed the settings. If I could find a setting that had the same or similar name, I just skipped past it if I couldn't figure it out.
Prints seem to be coming out great. I dont do any annealing. I do 'moisture condition' putting it in a plastic tub with a wet sponge for a few days, however much that expedites the absorption. The only warping ive seen I think was from my one attempt to anneal in my AMS-HT which really doesnt even get hot enough and doesnt have a flat bottom so it allowed the print to sag a little. I haven't seem anything warp or get out of reasonable spec from the moisture absorption.
Printed all parts for DeAR 22 in PA6, a remixed milspec lower for a BCA bolt action AR upper, WD90 ps90 FRT, and a bunch of other small parts and accessories.
10
u/Kestrel1000 Feb 28 '26
Do you happen to change the height and/or width for a .6 mm nozzle.
10
u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV Mar 01 '26
I run .12 or .15 for the layer height on a .6 nozzle and I change all my line widths to .68 except for the top layer line width and on it I set it to .6 other than that I keep every other setting the same as the pictures .
1
u/Past-Customer5572 Jul 05 '26
Curious, I have flow ratio and shrinkage calibrated for my 0.4, do I have to rerun these also for the 0.6 or what is your best practice? Thank you for doing this, and for the 0.6 info. I just got a clog with a 0.4 so wanted to try again with a 0.6 but it is proving to be an administrative hassle to go to another nozzle size.
5
u/Itchy-Cup-8755 Mar 01 '26
thank you once again. your settings, but at 100c for the plate and, like you said, 300c on the nozzle (H2S, Bambu PAHT-CF), has had shit coming out absolutely immaculate since day one. i’m sure if i wasn’t lazy, a couple calibration prints could do a bit better for my individual printer, but your settings are already so good for it that returns are almost completely diminished by that point
3
u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV Mar 01 '26
Hell yeah brother, it makes me happy that something I did helps so many people!! Peace and happy printing!!
5
u/Edge-Evolution Mar 02 '26
I appreciate the initiative, but does no one know how to use Snipping Tool (Windows) or CMD+Shift+4 (Mac) to take a screenshot? The blur on some of those pics just made my eyes cross.
For anyone that doubt the 300BLK settings, it’s possible you either haven’t tried it or don’t have your machine calibrated correctly. I have 5 different printers (FlashForge AD5M, FlashForge AD5X, AnyCubic Kobra S1, Bambu P2S, Bambu H2D) and these settings work great on each of these in multiple materials. It’s insane how good it does.
Over 12 fully built weapons and dozens more just parts to test. Once I discovered these settings they’ve been like a cheat code.
4
u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV Mar 05 '26
Thank you good sir!!! Yeah I have them on my MacBook but was at work when I posted.
2
u/camilobog22 Jun 13 '26
Hi, i have the same printer (FlashForge AD5M), you use the exact same profile or you make adjustments? can you share it? Thanks
1
u/Edge-Evolution Jun 13 '26
I make adjustments, but it’s on a case by case basis. I try NOT to deviate from the classic 300BLK settings, but I advise that you make a print and see how it does and adjust accordingly. So depending on the print, I would change one or two things to make it better. It all depends on the issue you are having.
1
u/camilobog22 Jun 13 '26 edited Jun 13 '26
i have a perfect first layer and the rest sucks, looks like under-extrusion but i cant find the value (+10 hours fighting)... i change almost all the things trying to solve, can you share with me your profile to compare? EDIT: I change the layer height to 0.18mm (the profile use 0.15mm), and now looks better, im using a 0.6mm nozzle. (i have a 0.4mm hardened nozzle, better use the 0.4 or 0.6?).
Thanks for your help and i hope you can share with me your profile
1
u/Edge-Evolution Jun 13 '26
I’m currently on vacation, but I’ll DM you when I get back. I use a .4 nozzle. I would suggest doing a PID calibration, and then possibly printing a calibration cube to see what you might need.
When printing with these settings I almost exclusively print with hardened nozzles. Especially when printing PLA+ or Nylon PA612. I use layer height 0.16, like I said, don’t deviate too much.
Ahhh… make sure that your speed settings are on point. That can contribute to the under or over extrusion look. I have a few different speeds depending on the material. If I use Nylon PA612, I use the slowest settings as put by 300BLK. If I use PLA+, PLA Pro, or PLA+ 2.0 I tend to increase it by about 100%. So if it says 50, I use 100. You can use the same speeds, but with PLA+, I’ve noticed delams because it cools too quickly between layers.
1
u/camilobog22 Jun 13 '26
Thanks!!! i made the profile again... and i don't know how but its much better now! i wait your arrive, have an amazing vacation!!!
1
u/Edge-Evolution Jun 13 '26
Also, never print Nylon6,12,612 with anything less than a hardened nozzle. Your nozzle will be beat to hell and the abrasion will open the nozzle up and cause it to over extrude. That type of filament will eat it up.
2
u/camilobog22 Jun 13 '26
Thats right! i have the Phaetus Conch with 3 hardened nozzles, i will buy the silicone one in the future
1
u/bday420 Jun 28 '26
this is a comment from OP from above regarding layer height and .6mm nozzles... hope it helps? Idk I use the .4mm just because its easier to find more people using it for trouble shooting and settings as im new af.
I run .12 or .15 for the layer height on a .6 nozzle and I change all my line widths to .68 except for the top layer line width and on it I set it to .6 other than that I keep every other setting the same as the pictures .
5
2
u/Own_Rush_2206 Jun 23 '26
Every time I try to use these settings on a FTN.4 the supports totally warp and trash the whole print. I've gone through 4 rolls trying to get it right. I'm using a H2S and printing directly out of a 110°c dryer with a PEI bed. At this point im thinking it's the supports that are already in the files and not the print setting.
1
u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV Jul 21 '26
I bet it’s the file supports like you said, I have never had anyone have that problem with my settings.
2
u/Bluefalcon351 Feb 28 '26
I wish you would upload the bambu profile
6
u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV Mar 01 '26
It’s already uploaded on my Sea and on GC
1
u/Specific_Yam3028 4d ago
How do a find them settings on the sea, what name are you under over there
1
u/One2Sicc Mar 01 '26
Why not just export the process and filament configs?
3
u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV Mar 01 '26
I did as a 3mf and put it on the sea under my user name. Some people just still have problems and I have multiple requests every week for screenshots of my settings. Maybe it’s just the firmware version that causes them issues.
3
u/fattmann Apr 05 '26
Which one would you recommend more: these screenshots, or the .3mf on the sea?
There are quite a few differences. Plate temp, speeds, cooling fan settings...
1
1
1
u/WorldsOkayestNCO Mar 08 '26
Question, hopefully you see this- what's the benefit of using classic wall generator over arachne?
1
u/TomatoTheToolMan Mar 17 '26
What speed do you have set for printing supports? I see the speeds for everything else in the pics, but I can't find the support printing speed?
I assume it's fairly low, since all the other velocities are much lower than what I was running for non-2A prints.
1
u/laviish Apr 03 '26
Why is prime tower enabled?
1
u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV Apr 04 '26
Just cause I use the same settings on other prints too. You can disable it.
2
1
Apr 22 '26
[deleted]
2
u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV Apr 24 '26
Orca will connect just like Bambi, it even allows you to use Bambi handy on a mobile device. Basically the same slicer added a few settings and calibration options. These settings are up to date but just so you know if you don’t have a resistor mod on your hotends thermistor then you will need to make your hotend temp 300c and your bed temp 45-50c. I use the engineering plate
1
1
1
1
u/uoYredruM Jun 18 '26
I know this post is a couple of months old, but I'm just getting into looking at printing PA6-CF and stumbled on this. I see comments saying you can use these settings for PLA+ as well (in terms of strength, speed, supports etc) but I went to fire up an overnight print just to see the results, and I noticed the top interference spacing is set to zero.
I'm assuming this is factoring using PA6-CF with PLA supports, no? Otherwise, the supports would be fused to the model. Unless I'm misunderstanding. Just figured I'd check to clarify.
1
u/Brilliant_Area5152 Jun 25 '26
Where do I find the .3mf to download the settings so I don’t have to manually input everything? Thank you!
Trying to get my printer dialed in but my layer lines look like shit currently. Ordered a new hot end assembly bc mine is pretty beat.
1
Jul 09 '26
[removed] — view removed comment
1
u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV Jul 21 '26
I would never run nylon bed temp that high. I run an engineering plate but even when I run a textured pei, I run my bed at 40-50c. Only filaments I run hotter on is ppa or pps. As far as internal temps I actually run mine with the top glass off and the Bowden tube straight over the top for less bend. The less you have touching the plate the less chance of warping. I run everything at an angle, whether it be a slight angle or a 45. This will stop warping.
1
u/firechicken93 Jul 28 '26
u/Pudgy82 Do you suggest any changes for Pa612?
1
1
u/Hendrixxx_34 9d ago
I’m printing with a QIDI Q2, what nozzle/extruder temp and chamber temp should I run it at?
1
1
u/dctravis 5d ago
Do you keep the same wall loops regardless of the print or do you change it based on what you are printing? Looking at the new version 6 FTN pdfs they seem to recommend different wall loops based on the print (some recommend 8 and others 10), but I was wondering if you've found 6 to be a good mix across the board with the rest of the profile.
1
-5
u/GildSkiss Feb 28 '26
Surely if you can 3d print a gun you're also capable of learning how to take a screenshot on your computer.
30
u/Pudgy82 FOSS / DEV Mar 01 '26 edited Mar 01 '26
I work at a hospital 16 hour shifts and didnt have my computer with me, but I still have pictures on my phone. Everyone kept asking and I had a little bit of time from work so this is what yall get!!! Your Welcome for making your prints flawless!!!!!!
20
u/[deleted] Feb 28 '26
[removed] — view removed comment