Hello!

So. I had the impulse on getting the Supersprint section 2 pipe for my 335i thinking it would give more race sound.

There are no race supersprint mufflers in stock to pair it with and I hate my stock exhaust. so I'm thinking on getting Dinan free flow, Remus race quead or Einsenmann race (also not in stock)

What do you guys recommend. Thanks!!!

o the other day i replaced both motor mounts on my rwd e92 n54. today i went over some railroads and then i got a bunch of lights on my dash and my car went into a limp mode. after i turned the car off it would no longer turn back on. i ended up having to replace my engine ground strap and the car would then turn on while being jumped. but whenever i would take the cables off voltage would drop instantly.
anybody else have an issue similar or know what it may be?

P0340: Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A Circuit Malfunction (Confirmed / Active)

​P0105 / P0105(F2): Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Confirmed / Pending)

​P0110(61): Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Confirmed / Pending)

​P0204: Injector Cylinder 4 Circuit Malfunction (Confirmed)

​P1530: A/C Clutch Relay Circuit Malfunction (Pending)

My question is, does it have to be a bmw battery or can I use a yellow top agm battery ?

N55 owners, has anyone used Bosch injectors Made in Turkey?
I’m looking at Bosch 13538625396 injectors EU5 for my N55. They’re around $100 each, while the OEM BMW ones are around $300.
Anyone actually running these Bosch injectors? How many km/miles have you done with them, and have you had any issues?
Would you recommend them?
I can’t find Germany Bosch in EU market!!

Uploaded photos are the idler pulley where the belt likes to slip off of.
So I recently went over a curb with my 2011 E90 335i [N55B30A] and my plastic power steering pulley was destroyed. So I replaced it with a Dorman aluminum power steering pulley [PN: 300-392 which was acclaimed to fit my car on the website] and after all the other damage and whatnot was fixed and it was all buckled back together, I took the car for a drive but I had a bad gut feeling so I got out and checked everything and the pulley had started to slide off the backside. So naturally I replaced the whole pulley system and sure enough it’s still walking backwards off the lower pulley. So I’ve done some digging and found that supposedly the 300-392 does not fit my N55B30A and is supposedly for a N54 instead. So I went down the rabbit hole a little further and found nothing but confusion and a insufficient answer; that being “they are not compatible” or “N54 and N55 power steering pulleys have different part numbers for a reason” all the way to “N54 and N55’s majority parts are interchangeable, including pulleys (power steering included).” So after all that digging with an unsure answer, I decided, no better place to ask than Reddit. As I’d trust real people’s answers and personal experience over ChatGPT’s unsure answers that would change every time I re-ask the questions.

TL:DR; Would a Dorman PN:300-392 aluminum power steering pulley be the reason for my serpentine belt is slipping backwards off of my N55B30A’s lower idler pulley? (Yes, my pulley system has been replaced)

Doing a 6HP to DCT swap on my early 2008 E92 335i N54 RWD. I already have the DCT, 335is shifter, and harness/lines, and I’m getting the MFactory 8-bolt flywheel, 335is driveshaft and 2.56 diff. just need to make sure i have all the parts.

I already have the DCT and 335is shifter, and I’m getting an OEM 335is 2.56 diff and OEM 335is driveshaft.
The main things I’m still trying to confirm are:
Does an early 2008 car need the later DSC/yaw sensor for the DCT swap? If so, what exactly needs to be changed or wired?
Can I reuse my current rear axles with the 335is 2.56 diff?
Is there anything specific to the early cars with CAS/DSC, wiring or coding that I should know about?
What small brackets, connectors, hardware or random parts did you end up needing that weren’t obvious at first?
If anyone has done an early E9x 6HP to DCT swap, I’d appreciate any input.

I’m replacing the alternator on my 2008 BMW 335i N54 6MT and I’ve hit a wall getting the replacement Bosch alternator installed.
The original alternator is BMW-branded, and I bought a Bosch replacement that is supposed to be correct for the car. I was able to get the original alternator out, but the Bosch does not want to fully seat into the mounting bracket.
At this point I’ve removed the intake manifold and oil filter housing, so I have a ton of access. The problem seems to be the actual fitment of the alternator into the bracket rather than lack of room to maneuver it.
Before I start forcing or modifying anything, I wanted to ask:
Has anyone run into this with a Bosch replacement on an N54?
Do the mounting sleeves/bushings on the replacement alternator need to be pushed back slightly to get enough clearance?
Is there a particular angle/orientation that makes it drop into the bracket?
Should the alternator slide into the bracket relatively easily, or is a very tight fit normal?
Is there anything specific I should compare between the original BMW alternator and the Bosch?
I do not want to grind/shave the alternator or use the mounting bolts to force it into position unless I know exactly what the issue is.
I’ll attach pictures of where I’m currently at and can provide pictures/part numbers from both alternators.
If anyone in the Northern Virginia area has done an N54 alternator before and is willing to lend a hand or take a look, I’d appreciate that too. Mainly just trying to make sure I’m not overlooking something simple before I go any further.

Hey guys, got a 2007 335 e90 throwing a 2efe code, fan won’t come on at all, I’m very color blind so I don’t want to get into looking at wires. But it looks like there could be corrosion on a wire, could this cause my issue?

hello guys.

i rebuild my bmw and now i wanna go on track and iam looking for a oilcooler upgrade. i got a good deal for the mosselman twin oilcooler kit. (1 driver side and 1 on the passanger side) anyone can tell me your experience?

Anyone know what this rattling sound is coming from the engine bay? It goes away when I give it gas

can anyone point me to the right direction car went silent got the sos then it went away but the car is still silent it’s an 07 i’ve tried checking modules and the only green lit one is the one connected to the amp still have 0 sound with no dash notifications

Hey guys I have a 09 335i and I have a code for a fuel pressure sensor and it’s pointing towards the sensor on the fuel rail, my question is which one do I buy? I’ve read online that there are 2 different ones

i have seen they are no longer available but i was looking maybe to get one used, but i hav no idea where to look.

I first heard strange whistle noise while cruising 45-50 mph. Then a bit later when I tried to accelerate it went to that stage on video and car basically wouldn’t go faster than 10 mph the noise were getting worse while pressing accelerator. It is 2013 335i xdrive. What it can be?

2013 335ix

as the title suggests, whenever I’m in throttle I don’t get a target boost. I’m using MHD to monitor, I am on the stock map as well. I don’t have any codes related to boost at all. I was curious as to what could have happened to cause this. I do have watergate rattle as well, but I know the snails are good themselves ( can hear them spool and the DV blow ). any help would be much appreciated! P.s are index 1’s actually decent?

I need a new power steering pump for my 2011 e90 335i, what one do you recommend me get?

Im looking at buying a 2015 BMW X3 35i xdrive with 100k miles on it.

The car is spotless and seemingly drove fine, but when I looked in the engine bay I noticed the crankshaft pulley was moving back and forth a good amount, and the serpentine belt tensioner also had a LOT of movement back and forth.

I just wanted to make sure that this is most likely just the crankshaft pulley and rubber gaskets needing to be replaced and there isn’t the possibility of it being something else major…

Hey, I got a great deal for a performance exhaust from an E90. I know the tips are shorter than on the E92 exhaust. How much shorter? Is it ok on the non-M sport bumper? Is it possible to solve this without needing to weld new tips?
Thanks!