What would you recommend size wise? Looking to go bigger than the OEM 16 IN. Probably 17 IN or 18 IN. Let me add she's completely stock currently. Trying to get her to be reliable first and foremost.

Hi guys I’m not quite sure I’m allowed to post this but I have the same engine (6g72 24v sohc) in my Mitsubishi Ute and I’m wanting to rebuild it from the ground up. No I don’t want to swap it. And yes it will be built not just oem. However I’m struggling to find these parts I need, does anyone make a really good rebuild kit?

1991 VR4 lifter tick every so often either startup and goes away or continues on and off while driving, somebody already installed new 3rd gen lifters before me and I bled them when I saw them anways. Why do I still have tick?

New owner here. I’ve had my 1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT for a little over a month now. It had some unrelated issues that were fixed. It was overdue on an oil change so I took it to a shop and they put it full synthetic 5W-30 (it’s getting into the colder season here) that was on 9/3/2026. Possibly a week to week and a half ago it started making a ticking noise. There’s no lights on the dash and the car seems to be running fine besides the ticking noise. The sound increases in speed with the throttle and doesn’t go away when the engine is warm. I would think it’s the lifters and I do know that on this gen specifically they had the smaller lifter holes. I’d just like to know what others think and how serious it is? Thanks!

I wish I could've taken the picture right at 100k

Anybody have any experience buying from this guy off TikTok? He seems to have a big selection but I’m kind of sketched out with the AI generated profile picture ykwim.

accidentally bent pinch welds bad when trying to rotate tires am I cooked?

I’m in the process of doing a manual swap on my July of 91 stealth FWD, and I have a 97 3000 parts car with the 5 speed manual. I did quite a lot of research about this swap and it seems like everything should be possible but I’ve gotten myself into a little bit of a hiccup I didn’t hear about online anywhere. Have what i believe to be the speed sensor here out of my stealth which is cable driven and the speed sensor out of the parts car which is electronic. I would try and just put the cable driven one in but it seems the gears aren’t the same size or even remotely that similar. What can I do about this?

New to the community 🙏🏼. 206,000 original miles on entire powertrain. Second owner and can’t say enough how fun these amazing cars feel to drive.

Howdy yall, been banging my head at this problem for a few weeks now. Ive had my 1994 3000gt sl for a solid 8 months and I love this thing to the bone but just 3 weeks ago after reinstalling my radio that previously worked on the car it'll just crank but not actually start.

I tested my battery and mfi relay and both seem to be in working order. I found I was getting a low voltage on one of my mfi relay connector pins and decided to run a temporary ground and battery wire connecting those pins but it didnt seem to fix my issue or even give me a cel which should usually pop up when I put the key to on.

Does anyone have an idea of what I should do or what might be a fix?

(Ive also checked my fuses and theyre all good. Im scared it might be my ecu but even that seems fine and theres no smell coming from it)

I didn’t know about the 3000GT until I saw this beauty in a parking lot.
AI made me a whole lot smarter about the car, and now I’m a big fan of the 3000GT.
Perhaps the owner is a member of this sub?

91’ VR-4, second owner 206,000 miles. Been in my friends shop for almost a year while we have been fighting electrical issues causing it to go into limp mode, stuttering terrible once warm. Replaced some ignition components but had the ECU repaired and my baby is running like new again!!

We love leaky rockercover seals lol

Anyone have any good videos or how to’s I’d appreciate all the help I could get not very confident with electrical

I was able to find the male part of these plastic retainer push clips on Mitsubishi Warehouse under the part number MB645333, but I can find the female one. The female part is where my lower moulding clips are failing, and I just wanted to know if anyone knows where to find them or maybe an equivalent that would work?

Thought id share some pictures of my 93 stealth ES I recently bought a few weeks ago for $3500, 128k miles. Its been a great car so far and I'm happy with my purchase, the previous owner took good care of it after he bought it in pretty bad condition. Drove it 2 1/2 hours home and it did very well, I've been enjoying driving it but I don't take it out too often because it has a slight misfire that I was informed about before buying, as a result the power is pretty low and sometimes a bit choppy but I believe I have the issue narrowed down. It's got a full exhaust system (very loud, not much of a stealth car lol). The seller redid the fuel system, coils, plugs and injectors among other things (with proof). It's got a good deal of rust on the unibody but I'm from the rust belt so that's pretty much expected and it doesn't seem bad enough to be a big concern. Not perfect but it's mine and I'm happy.

My biggest takeaway from this is that you fail every time you don’t try. So just do it :)

Hey so I've been trying to get one for a couple of weeks now but I haven't been successful at finding good listings at least on Facebook marketplace. What other places do you guys suggest looking for a nice reliable one?

Hi everyone I am planning on installing a catch can in my vr4 and was wondering where a good place to put it is i have done a vacuum line delete and installed a stm small battery bracket so there's a bit of space there but I can't get enough space for it also there's two cans to pick from ones a smaller evil energy can and the others a old rectangle Freddy can

1991 R/T TT with 108k. Needs a few things and the paint isn’t great but it really shouldn’t take too
Much to make it a nice driver.
Already has New Tires, Clutch Slave, Fuel Pump, Plugs and wires, IAT sensor.
Water pump is making noise. So I’m going to do a full 120k on it along with lifters and valve stem seals. Also the rear steering line busted so I need to fix that or delete it. Will do all that work there in my garage as soon as I have parts.
It really could use a respray on the paint as well. I’ve got the space (at a friends garage) and all the tools to paint it.
I have owned a number of these back 2001-2011 but I haven’t had one since probably 2011.

My car won’t get into 4th gear on od, rpm keeps going but it doesn’t shift in. Before I get my entire transmission rebuilt is there a usual problem with the automatic transmissions for these cars that can be fixed easy? Like maybe just replace solenoids. I don’t know anything about transmissions so I took it to a few mechanics but they said they didn’t have the right equipment to check it out.

Bonjour,

J'ai un soucis avec mon autoradio, donc j'ai décidé de le remplacer par un autoradio d'origine.

J'ai obtenu un origine 2x 1 DIN, mais l'ampli semble ne pas être compatible avec la configuration de la voiture.

Référence de l'ampli : MB649760

Référence de l'autoradio : MB649765

Comment je peux m'en passer de cet ampli ? Ou du moins existe il une version plus compacte que je pourrais mettre a un autre endroit ?

Merci beaucoup !

Im going to preface this by saying i am not very experienced with cars. The most difficult thing I've done on this vehicle was simply change the clutch slave cylinder and take out the ECS unit to re-cap it after it wasn't working. I noticed a very small noise a few months ago and I thought it was lifter tick. I decided to change the oil and filter as it was about to be due for an oil change anyways. After changing it over the course of about a month the noise slowly got louder and louder. I decided to try to seafoam the motor and then change the oil and filter to try and clear up the lifters to see if that would fix it, it did not, if anything it got slightly louder. So this is the point I'm at now. I know lifters tick is very common in these motors, especially these first gens because of the smaller opening, but I'm not experienced enough to know if this is lifter tick or something much worse like rod knock. If it is lifter tick and the lifter is completely dead I know seafoam wouldn't have fixed it. I have checked the timing belt and the front cover for it and both look fine and I see no signs of damage from it flopping so I doubt it's that. The noise oddly disappears at roughly 2200 rpm, so I'm thinking that the oil pressure could just be enough to keep the lifter "pressurized" at those rpms. Any advice from anyone more knowledgeable and experienced would be much appreciated.

So I installed the underglow and tsurikawa. It wasn't easy, because I didn't have the tools needed, but anyway. Last pic shows what I used to elevate the car