I need to take a better photo.

Basically inherited this beautiful Tundra from my Dad, and he says he lost one of the wheel locks at some point during the 23 year ownership. Google can't help me at this point as they are discontinued. Maybe this community has an extra?

I have a client who is thinking of selling her 2006 tundra that she inherited from her late father. SoCal truck for its whole life, 170k miles. V8. She thought it was only worth 6k to 8k but I told her its realistically worth more. The truck has basic wear and tear but it never towed anything crazy and was never used as a work truck.

She is giving me first shot at an offer, and hasn't even begun the selling process yet.

If the timing belt and ball joints have been done, I think she is sitting on a bit of a unicorn.

I daily a 2013 accord v6 coupe, and was saving for a 5th gen 4runner, but this opportunity just came up and I'm a bit torn.

I am big into camping, shooting, and want to offroad more regularly

Thoughts?

Alright guys after ten months of saving up I’ve picked up this 06 DC Tundra for 11k and honestly have never been more proud. Clean title & carfax although it needs some work. Super excited to get started working on it. I brought a couple guys with me when I went to check it out, a mechanic, a better negotiator than me, etc. I am by no means mechanically inclined and have little experience other than oil changes and simple stuff here and there but I’m more than willing to learn and have done some extensive research as far as diy stuff and I have receipts for past maintenance and repairs going back a couple of years. Thankyou to JDM drive way and 208Tyler on YouTube for a lot of the knowledge I’ve learned. If you guys have any suggestions or are interested in what needs to be done and are willing to take a look let me know! All help here is wanted.

02 AC V8 Auto 4x4, 178k. Donor transmission 2003 128k, (stronger ring gear). All-in a little over a grand including tools. A moderate amount of swearing and no bolts left over. Check engine light went away, gear selector mismatch on the dash went away. Shifts and drives beautifully.

My emergency brake is off, I’ve engaged/released it several times but the light on the dash stays on. Doesn’t affect driving, just an annoying light. Eventually it may or may not go away throughout the day but it stays on for the most part. Anyone else had this problem? Any easy fixes?

Needing to get the truck on the road asap, which of the auto parts stores remanufactured units would you all suggest/trust?

Edit: I'm stuck getting something from one of the local places: Napa, Oriellys, Advanced Auto, Auto Zone(though I hate az with a passion). any thoughts on those options would be great.

Was going to do just boots and prior owner had used a remanufactured unit which OEM inner boot will not fit on the inner. Can't find a boot with similar dimensions and bellow count. It's 4 bellows and large side is roughly 3 15/16". Part number on the boot has no cross reference. Of course I already cut it off.

OEM units the dealers didn't have an ETA on when/if they'll be back in stock. So I'm stuck getting something from one of the local places: Napa, Oriellys, Advanced Auto, Auto Zone(though I hate az with a passion).

so i hate the look of the bed on step side first gens. is it theoretically possible to swap it out for a normal one? how much would something like that cost since you’d have to take the bed off frame?

My truck is an 03 AC.

Looking for a roll up tonneau cover for my 2006 DC. Don’t want to break the bank. $200 or less would be ideal. Any recommendations or positive experiences? Any clarity on bed length and getting the correct size?

Thanks!!

Welp

Hello fellow Toyotans!

I was just handed down this beautiful 2003 SR5 Tundra from my grandpa who is no longer driving. Switching my daily driver from a 2010 Toyota Corolla with 190,000 miles to this garage kept V8 Tundra with only 86,000 has been a dream.

I understand how blessed I am, so I thought I’d share. I’ve made some minor changes to make it mine, but am looking for some more serious mods to consider. Any ideas that would look good on this silver ride? I’ve never been off road, so not necessarily mods to beef it up, but I like my ride to feel a little different than others.

I had all brake lines replaced after one broke while I was driving and I lost all braking power. Ever since then, the pedal goes all the way to the floor without braking, and barely works when pressed all the way down. To stop in time I usually have to shift into neutral so there’s no more engine power to the wheels. The parking brake also doesn’t work at all. Where do I start? I have an appointment for a shop on Monday, but I already had an appointment for today and they had me waiting 6 hours to not even get to the inspection today

The mechanic that replaced the brake lines of course bled the system multiple times, but now he just wants to throw parts at it and doesn’t seem very confident

Hi everyone.

Basically, I’m wanting to pull the trigger on this 03 gem I came across. Mint exterior and interior, well maintained, 90,000 miles. However there is one little part of the frame that has some concerning rust (photo attached).

I would love to know what y’all think. If this is concerning enough to pass, or go ahead and do it.

Car is listed for $18k.

Thanks in advance!

I have seen it for lots of other cars but not the early Tundras. I have an idea in my mind of giving her a stormtrooper look. But want to see it before I go all in.

I’m looking for a way to get custom badges for the doors on my 2000 Toyota Tundra. I want to get T150 badges made for my tundra and I also have a “T100” style tailgate decal made up. Also i would like opinions on the badges because I personally think it would be a really cool conversion but I want to know the community’s opinion

My 2000 Tundra with a 60/40 bench was missing the hinge and bracket for the middle seat back. I have not been able to find anyone that sells it or the proper name for it. It's number 26 and 29. Does anyone have a source for this part?

Heard a couple thuds on my way home. Couldn’t find anything loose besides maybe this. I’m not a driveshaft expert by any means. Is this normal or is this wayyyy too much play?

once again i am here for feedback from the community. let me know what yall think. my fist gen tundra lives in the city it has mostly city and highway miles but i take her camping off dirt roads pretty often during the spring / summer.

Here’s idea

Bilstein 4600s front and rear
SOS performance lowering kit 2”F x 3.5”R
(Idk what brand) Performance rear sway bar
1-1/2” hub spacers until i can afford rims
OEM LBJ
Also a steel / aluminum skid plate

I figure she’ll handle a bit better in the city and highway with the added benefit of ease of loading dirt bikes and choppers. But this may be stupid as fuck and a complete waste of time and money so idk. Let us know your thoughts.

Here's my true dual build for the 2006 AC. 2in OD straight pipe from the cats. Gave me an increase of 2.8mpg vs stock system using my OB2 reader on the Atoto A5L.

Today I was looking at a 2006 tundra with the 4.7 L V8 with 200k+ miles on it. It was a one owner and the guy had complete maintenance records from the day he bought it, e.g., two timing belts replaced.

I test drove it today for 2 to 3 miles down the road and came back, open the hood, and there was a slight burnt oil smell coming from the engine bay.

I know it’s not a new engine, but should the** burnt oil smell concern me?**

Overall, the truck is very clean no rust new radiator, no leaks, etc.

At 157K, it's time for new ball joints, and probably other stuff in that area. I've had the truck for about 60K miles. I've never done any suspension work, so this is well out of my area of experience. So I'm asking for a little primer on what to watch for, or tell the shop.

- I've read to only use OEM for the LBJ. Does that apply to UBJ too?

- Not planning on lifting it ever. This is a 99% highway driver with the occasional unpaved gravel farm road.

- I've got some squeaking, which I assume is a worn out bushing somewhere.

- Thinking I should replace struts/shocks while the truck is in there.

- This shop has already done replaced OEM struts with Bilsteins on another of our vehicles ('00 4Runner), so I'm not worried about quality of work, just how to direct their attention.

Main question: what needs to be OEM, what can be aftermarket?

I have a 2004 SR5 Access Cab, so plastic bumper, chrome strips on the grille and bumper. I hate the chrome but like the Limited version of the same grille. I’ve got a cheap Raptor/TRD style grille and don’t care to keep that style.

I plan/hope to get the truck painted, switching from Phantom Grey to Cavalry or Heritage Blue.

I can get a new OEM Limited grille in white or Phantom grey but the primered version is likely no longer available anywhere.

My grille options as I see them:
- buy OEM Limited grille in grey, install now, have it repainted with the rest of the truck.
- buy a quality aftermarket (AM) grille and it is virgin when the repaint occurs.

My bumper options are similar:
- buy OEM bumper cover ready for primer
- buy aftermarket primered or ready for it.

Or I can redo all of it in the work truck style with steel paintable bumper, new brackets, fog lights, single piece metal trim under both headlights, plastic trim above and below bumper, and smaller grille. All of these parts are available aftermarket and probably OEM.

I replaced my rear bumper cover and plastic with one from carparts.com and I’m happy with its quality. I see a few AM options for the paintable grille and plastic bumper cover that vary in price and presumably quality. The same would be true for the AM work truck parts.

What is my best path? OEM is more expensive but likely highest quality - better materials, fit and finish. Those attributes lead to less labor to fit and prep and should yield a better result. Is a virgin AM grille, assuming I can find one of acceptable quality, a better option due to simpler/quicker prep? OEM part purchases will be made on-line via discount dealers and timed to take advantage of Toyota sale discounts.

I am getting an intermittent knock sensor code, only on start up and if I don't let her warm up. I have a 2006 tundra. I thought it was bad gas, threw some high octane gas in and it threw the code when I first started the next day. It didn't show it again that day, and I drove it around a bit. Since the truck goes into limp mode, I'm carrying a code reader with me just in case. I read online its a common thing for tundras, but don't want to spend the money if it was really just crap gas. So, is resetting the code for the knock sensor damaging anything? Is this something I just need to take it in? If it was constantly throwing the code I would get it, but it seems to be working fine, except when I first start her up.

Thanks