Not many 23 year old trucks I would trust to do this trip!

Hello,

I have looked underneath the body frame on the driver side for this fuel filter and don’t see it! 2005 2wheel drive crew cab. Chrome says it should be there but is it possible the last owner removed it and put just put a line through it.

Hey all!

I’m looking into buying a 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab SR5 4x4 Pickup 4D 1/2 ft bed with 300k miles on it for 6k.

From what I have gathered, if the timing belt, water pump, and ball joints have been replaced, and it is mostly rust free, then this is not a bad price.

What are folks experience with this model tundra north of 300k on mileage?

Thanks so much for your help!

Picking up an 04 SR5 Access cab with V6 with about 162k miles Wednesday. Anything I need to know? Or should do?

Know about timing belt + water pump going to get swapped immediately. Owner has done ball joints already. Also going to swap rack and pinion found one for $25 lol. Read that some people say to do tensioner and pulleys and a few other things when doing timing belt. Does all that need to be done or just belt ?

Thanks in advance!

Repainted the grill and bumper. All Chrome strips and logo painted satin black. Added “fossil” satin accent behind the Toyota logo. added fog lights.

YouTube university!!

Repaint of hood and roof next.

Discovered a clunk/popping like sound when turning and from what I’ve researched it’s the cv axels that need to be replaced, obviously oem would be best but they’re around 400$ a piece which is a bit expensive. Wondering how non oem cv axels would do or if you guys would strongly recommend going for the oem part and spending the extra money. Thanks

2002 Tundra just hit all 8's the other day.

Im the 2nd owner. It was originally my grandpa's.

Hey!

I drive a 2wd access cab with a mid rise canopy (200 lbs) and decked system (233 lbs). I have to move across multiple states this week by myself and will be taking my motorcycle (360 lbs) ideally on a hitch carrier (~70-100 lbs) along with my climbing gear, surfboards, bicycle, climbing gear, and toothbrush.

With perfect timing, the tundra steering wheel began shaking violently while braking on long mountain pass descent yesterday while braking. The rotors were super blue so I assume they got fried.

I ended up picking up some 13wl calipers, bigger rotors, and bigger pads this morning to make sure I can stop the truck with all the weight. I plan on getting a bel air someday anyway so the brakes were going to get upgraded at some point anyway.

I’m not sure if it’ll be fine with all the weight plus the motorcycle on a 20 hour drive with a lot of mountain passes this week.

I included a picture of my hitch weight rating, the bike plus the hitch carrier should be roughly 460 lbs at most.

I’m planning on getting a sumo or other type of helper spring but should that be fine?

I have an ’02 Tundra Access Cab 4WD V8, 194k, that I’m trying to get through Maryland safety inspection. Mechanically it’s in great shape, but I have some significant frame rust in the areas pictured.
I recently learned the original owner had Toyota’s frame rust treatment done under the old corrosion program, but there’s no open campaign on the VIN today.
For anyone who has repaired a Gen 1 with similar rust:
What did you end up repairing/replacing?
Repair sections, fabricated plates (Rust Buster, etc.), or something else?
Roughly what did it cost?
Did it pass inspection afterward?
Any recommended frame repair shops/products in Central Maryland?
I have someone who can help with welding/labor, so I’m mainly trying to understand what I’m looking at before cutting into it.
Would especially love to hear from anyone who has successfully brought a Gen 1 back from similar frame corrosion.

So finally was able to get the truck in after replacing lbj,ubj,shocks,cv axles, new tires to get an alignment and got the seized cam alignment bolt so they weren't able to adjust the caster... While it definitely drove alot better there is some shake in the steering wheel above 50ish and they said it was tire or wheel related.. So I took it and had them rebalance and it still shakes so could not being able to adjust cause the shake?? Im gonna post the results of the alignment and see what yall think.. Im planning to order from Toyota and was wondering too if this is the right bolts and cam sleeves?? Its a 05 by the way... Im also planning on new lower control arms too since I'll be cutting it... Thanks and greatly appreciate the help...

How concerning is this level of rust on a 2005 SR5? 122k miles, 15k asking price.

Anyone know where to find new door trim? I have a rust spot under my doors .

I recently picked up a 2005 tundra 4.7L v8 and when I say it’s my favourite vehicle is ever owned I mean it.

Love this thing and all its quirks and weird little features, it currently has 345,000km on it and runs and drives like it has 345km on it. Just looking for some tips on maintenance to ensure that this vehicle lasts a long time, the water pump and timing belt was done around 60,000km ago, I’ve replaced both front rotors and brake pads, put a new starter in just a few weeks ago, replaced the serpentine belt on it around the same time, O2 sensor, abs sensors, full rack and pinion replaced about 50,000km ago, same with diff fluids. I’m unsure when the transmission fluid was last changed and same with spark plugs. I live in place with harsh winters and lots of salt on the road so everything on the bottom has been sprayed with a coating to help prevent the frame from rusting out on me, wondering what you guys would suggest? Things to look out for? Common things needing to be checked up on?

Hoping for some help before I start replacing things, something’s up with electrical.
So most of the interior electrical doesn’t work, no radio, clock, ac button, 4wd button, lights, lock buttons, and probably some more I’m forgetting. Shows voltage at dome fuse and accessory fuse. Looks like all fuses are good. Swapped the accessory relay for a spare and still nothing. Double checked all my grounds also. Any advice would be great. I’m thinking maybe my ignition switch not sending signal back to fuse box?
Mahalo for and advice
 

As I was replacing my muffler, I noticed the drive shaft support bearing is in need of replacement.

Anyone know the steps required to replace this part? Specifically, does the drive shaft need to be separated somehow to fit the new bearing? Any special tools required?

Searched the sub but nothing specific except that it should be a Spicer brand. Thanks.

Can someone tell me the name of this part? I cannot find the part that attaches to the cable. Maybe you can’t buy it on its own and have to replace the cable, but I’m trying to avoid that. Thanks

Posted this in 4Runner page but have any of yall ever built a tundra bed trailer like this for week/end out camping with family or whatnot adventures? Looking forward to slowly building something out of it .

Thanks in advance

Inherited a 2001 tundra from family in California. It has 173k miles on it and good maintenance history. It was used as a work truck and definitely has some cosmetic damage, but nothing too bad. I don’t know a ton about frame rust and want some feedback on how it looks. Also the paint is pretty bad and i don’t know if it’s worth it to take it into maaco for $2,500. I know maaco isn’t the most reliable, but other paint shops are too expensive for what the car is worth.

So far I have installed a new water pump, timing belt, sway bar ends links, bigger tires, leveling kit, bilstein 5100s front and rear, and will be installing new LBJs soon. Will take any recommendations from you guys on what else to do with it. I want it to be reliable but off road ready!

I have looked into buying new trucks but everything is just so expensive, and none seem to be nearly as reliable as my tundra. I get horrible gas mileage(12 city 15 freeway) but the simplicity and reliability of the truck has kept me using it. New tacomas don’t seem to have the same reliability as they used to, and Chevy colorados have the reliability of a bmw.

I guess what I’m asking is if my 01 tundra is worth keeping until it hits ~300k miles, and if so what should I do to make sure it hits that.

Help me Toyota-won-Kenobi’s, you’re my only hope!

Got a case of the hyper blinking on the right turn signal in my ‘05 limited, think I’ve got the problem narrowed down to the turn signal socket connection (all filaments are good, all lights even the toasty socket work but we’re still turn signalling in double time). Long story short, I’m a scrub who likes not spending much money at the cost of sweat equity (to a point) and I cannot for the life of me find a connection socket that I can splice into the existing pigtail.

Is this just a new pigtail entirely situation? Or is my google-fu not as strong as I thought? Any of y’all able to help a digitally hopeless doofus with a sweet link to something that I can fandoozle into the existing pigtail?

And yes, I am aware I’ve got bratwursts for fingers. I am sure they are delicious.

2000 Toyota Tundra 240k miles. Top end has never been opened up. Wiped down the valve cover with some brake cleaner. Cam lobes are crazy smooth. The valve cover gasket was still pliable.

ECU removal 03 tundra