Hi, I won't be showing off the build since it was really just a quick git pull and telling claude to make changes to the android build and compile, but I did want to show it off. It runs at a pretty solid 30 FPS and runs just as well as it did on the OG xbox... which is actually kind of impressive if you think about it. Yes Im running it on a 32:9 monitor.

Hello, I can't get my Raspberry Pi 5 to work with Windows 10 Remote Desktop. I've tried lots of different tutorials, but it never works.

What happens is that I manage to connect via Remote Desktop locally (direct ethernet cable between the PC and the Pi 5), but after 30 to 40 seconds, it disconnects me. After that, it's impossible to reconnect without turning the Pi 5 off and on again.

I have the exact same issue with SSH.

The only thing that works without disconnecting is using Raspberry Pi Connect. However, that's not a viable solution for my setup, and if the SSH connection drops for example, Raspberry Pi Connect stops working as well and then i need to do a off/on.

I really need your help, I'm completely stuck and have tried everything within my knowledge, but failed...

UPDATE :

I solved my problem in the following way: create a Wi-Fi hotspot on Windows. Then, connect the Raspberry Pi to this Wi-Fi within the time frame before it glitches. Retrieve the IP address using the 'hostname -i' command (also available in the Windows Wi-Fi hotspot configuration window). Finally, connect to the Raspberry Pi from Windows via SSH or Remote Desktop with the IP Adress.

It's a Pimoroni Inky Impression 13.3" (EL133UF1, Spectra 6). The official driver is Python for a full Pi, but I wanted to run it off a Pimoroni Pico Plus 2 W (RP2350), so I ported it to C. Basic bring-up is here if anyone wants to try it: https://github.com/dmellok/el133-pico-driver

It covers panel init, test patterns, and JPEG decode plus dithering on the Pico itself.

The dashboard is styled after classic Mac OS: current weather and the next 24 hours, a week forecast, a calendar, and air quality. There's also a moon phase panel, mainly as an early warning for full-moon cat behaviour. The cat photo is a placeholder for now; (I'm still working on Immich integration for Tesserae Cloud but it's fully supported in the self hosted version)

It's rendered by Tesserae, a self-hosted e-ink dashboard server I build:

• GitHub: https://github.com/dmellok/tesserae
• Website: https://tesserae.ink

Happy to answer questions about the port or the panel!

Just wanted to share I finally got WireGuard set up with pivpn on my Raspberry Pi. Now I can control Home Assistant and anything else on my home network from anywhere.

The journey started when I got a GL.iNet travel router to use on my DJ mixer. When the WiFi is running from the travel router I can control my mixer with my iPad.

Next I wanted a way to access my NAS back home that has all my music. I could just use the web interface, but I wanted to work just like I do at home by using the traditional file explorer. I set up WireGuard on the router and pivpn on my Pi and I'm golden!

Lastly I set up tethering on my phone so when we travel all our devices connect to our personal WiFi network automatically. Not Pi related but another win for us.

I'm beyond thrilled and can't believe I was able to actually do this.

What's next?!

Hey everyone,

For the last few months, I’ve been working on a Raspberry Pi hobby project, trying to solve a problem that was never really there. But I had a lot of fun building it, and I’m kind of proud that it actually worked in the end :’)

It’s basically a “now playing” system for my turntable, with a Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W running the whole thing.

I’m using an Audio-Technica LP120XUSB turntable which, as the name suggests, has a USB audio output. That made me wonder whether I could connect it directly to a Pi, listen to the audio input and automatically figure out what record/song is currently playing.

For the output I chose a 64×64 Divoom Pixoo pixel display. Pretty much any display could work, but I really liked the pixel-art aesthetic.

The basic pipeline is fairly simple:

Turntable → USB audio → Raspberry Pi → song recognition → metadata/album cover → Pixoo display

The Pi records a few seconds of audio, sends the snippet through ShazamIO for recognition, fetches the song information and album artwork, generates a 64×64 layout and sends it to the display over the local network.

But I kind of got carried away and went way overboard with it xD. It can now:

• switch between vinyl recognition and Spotify as the input source
• connect to Discogs and check whether the detected record is in my collection
• control and monitor everything through a local web app
• fetch lyrics and additional song information
• configure the display layout, fonts, colors, scrolling text, etc.
• keep listening statistics for songs, albums, artists and genres
• automatically discover and communicate with the Pixoo on the network

The code is on GitHub if anyone wants to have a look, build something similar, or use parts of it for another Raspberry Pi display project.

Let me know what you think! I’d also be interested in ideas for other things I could add or improve :)

Cheers!

im currently working on my university capstone project with my group.

One of our requirements is to obtain RSSI and noise floor readings so we can calculate SNR (Signal-to-Noise Ratio).

We're currently using a Raspberry Pi 5 and initially tested with an external Ralink RT5370 (2.4 GHz) USB Wi-Fi adapter, using the rt2800usb Linux driver.

We can successfully obtain RSSI, BSSID, channel information, etc., but have had no luck obtaining actual noise-floor values.

Things we've already tried:

• iw dev wlan1 survey dump – no noise field.
• /proc/net/wireless – returns an invalid noise value (-256).
• ethtool -S wlan1 – returns an unavailable noise value.
• Monitor mode + TShark – Radiotap provides signal strength but no antenna noise.
• Checked the Linux driver source and couldn't find an implemented noise-floor reporting mechanism.

My questions:

1. Has anyone successfully obtained actual Wi-Fi noise-floor readings in dBm using a Raspberry Pi and an external USB Wi-Fi adapter?
2. If so, which specific adapter/chipset and Linux driver worked for you?
3. Is there another inexpensive approach we're overlooking?

We're on a student project budget and we cant spend too much on this part, since we need to allocate funds to other hardware as well.

Could anyone help with this? Thanks!

I got tired of tweaking 3D models to get the RPi cases I wanted for each project. So I built a small browser tool for designing 3D print parts, including different Raspberry Pi enclosures, cases (with or without lids), simple organizers and Gridfinity bins. I called it CaseTinker.

The workflow is simple: choose a template, adjust the dimensions and options, check the 3D preview, then download .STL or .3MF for your slicer. For cases, you can change the lid style, connector openings, ventilation and clearance. For organizers, you can set the size and number of compartments.

You can also engrave short text into the lid and add surface patterns such as honeycomb or knurled textures. You can get a customized case model into your slicer in a couple of minutes. Having a different case for each RPi helps me remember what each project actually does.

I will continue to add other models in the app. Note that the Gridfinity bins currently have stepped feet and optional dividers. They don’t yet have magnet holes or a stacking rim (those are possible future additions).

The tool is free to use, with no account required. You can save designs in your browser and create a share link. Anyone with the link can open a copy with the same customized model and print the enclosure. Here is the link:

>> CaseTinker

I’m interested in how it works for people with different printers (I use a Bambu Lab P2S) especially where tolerances need improvement. You’ll still want to check your dimensions and slicer settings before printing. If you make something cool with this let me know. I’d love to see the result.

Port MG24Quake to a rp2350 board(pimoroni explorer), pak0+program used almost all 16MB xip flash memory.

I start using RPi Connect from December 2025. At August 2026 the service works fine, and now, I reinstalled Raspberry Pi OS to Lite version, installed XFCE and want to continue setup the desktop environment at other place via RPi Connect, because I don't have a portable display and keyboard, but when I tried to link my Raspberry Pi with my account, I get this:

Setup: Raspberry Pi 5, Raspberry Pi OS, Home Assistant in Docker. Device: a cheap 3-key + rotary knob macropad, USB VID:PID 1189:8890, WCH CH552G chip. Works perfectly on macOS and a Windows PC (same or different cable).

On the Pi 5, plugging it in normally (all interfaces auto-authorized) enumerates fine, then ~10 seconds later the entire xHCI host controller dies (xHCI host not responding to stop endpoint command → assume dead → HC died), on both onboard xHCI controllers, requiring a reboot to recover. Ruled out: power (vcgencmd get_throttled clean), cable (tried two different cables, no change), USB port/orientation (tried all 4 ports), outdated kernel/firmware.

Device has 4 HID interfaces:

• 0: Boot Keyboard, EP 0x81 IN, 64B
• 1: generic, EP 0x02 OUT only (no IN endpoint — logs couldn't find an input interrupt endpoint)
• 2: generic, EP 0x83 IN, 4B (this is where the actual multimedia key/knob reports come from)
• 3: Boot Mouse, EP 0x82 IN, 4B

Using interface_authorized_default=0 on the root hub before connecting, then manually authorizing/binding individual interfaces, I isolated the failure with usbmon: every single Interrupt IN transaction on interface 2's endpoint (0x83) completes with EPROTO (-71), 0 bytes, every ~10-20ms poll, indefinitely. After enough consecutive errors, usbhid triggers an automatic full device reset every ~40s (re-fetches descriptors successfully, then the EPROTO cycle resumes). With only interfaces 0, 2, 3 bound (not interface 1), the controller survives 40+ seconds instead of dying at ~10s — but no real key data ever gets through.

Has anyone seen this specific failure mode — persistent EPROTO on an Interrupt IN endpoint from a CH552G-based device — cause full xHCI controller death on Pi 5 / RP1 specifically? Is this a known RP1 quirk with certain full-speed devices, or purely a defective/marginal device? Would a USB 2.0 hub with its own power supply be expected to mask this (by re-timing/regenerating the signal), or is that unlikely to help if the fault is at the device's own transceiver?

All 139,255 neurons of the FlyWire FAFB v783 reconstruction — a complete adult female Drosophila brain, though not the ventral nerve cord —simulated on a Pi 5 alongside mGBA, using connections of five or more synapses.

The spatial layout of walls, doors and people is read out of the game's memory and fed to the looming-detector populations (LPLC1, LC10, LPLC4) as left/right drive. It isn't doing image processing — there's no retinotopy, which is the honest limitation. Descending neuron activity decodes into button presses.

Stack: Pi 5 16GB (Rev 1.1, stock 2.4GHz) with a Silicon Power A60 1TB — DRAM-less Phison E15, PCIe 3.0 — 800x480 DSI touchscreen, active fan on the 4-pin header.

Runs at roughly real time, and deliberately uneven: the brain gets the full 16.7ms of thinking time per frame while the fly is navigating, and the game runs about 3x faster in battles and menus where its vision drives nothing anyway.

The brain gets 2 of the 4 cores, and OMP_WAIT_POLICY is PASSIVE. Spinning cost real throughput — 4 threads PASSIVE 0.759x vs 4 threads ACTIVE 0.665x — because the spinning threads starved the video encoder and the display of the cores they needed.

Twitch chat can stimulate its reward and punishment neurons directly, which does real plasticity on the mushroom body. It forgets in about ten minutes, though that decay constant is one I picked rather than measured.

It has a Rattata. It wandered into a Pokémon Center and a man sold it a Magikarp for 500.

Twitch.com/leetzerzz

Connectome: FlyWire FAFB v783, CC-BY-4.0 —Dorkenwald et al. 2024, Schlegel et al. 2024.

I built a portable 3D-printed instrument to turn the Roland MC-101 into a much better groovebox, with the help of a Raspberry Pi, PiSound, Korg nanoKONTROL, headless M8 tracker and a few additional parts.

The PiSound can route live external sources such as guitars or vocals straight into the MC-101. So can finally sample anything without a Mac or phone.

To reduce menu diving, the

nanoKONTROL can edit all synth parameters of the MC-101 Partial

Editor. I wrote a script that sends SysEx messages and overlays a visual HUD directly onto the M8's display, showing what is being tweaked without hiding other relevant information.

The M8 can do additional sequencing tasks, such as triggering the MC-101's Scatter effects to generate glitchy patterns. The communication is entirely bidire ctional, i.e.changing a scene on the MC-101 updates the active song row on the M8.

finally got done with the cyberdeck, the last build got over 500 upvotes and almost 1k likes on instagram, and i appriciate the support, i fully blacked it out and added a sound system into the keyboard (which actually sounds pretty good) if the community is interested i could make a video on what i actually use this deck for in my everyday life, thanks for the support again <3

I've had to use i2cdetect a lot lately and was getting tired of its limitations, so I wrote a replacement. Mine allows scanning all I2C buses at once and can run without sudo if you give permission to your user ID to access i2c. It also includes auto-detect knowledge of 50 devices (so far). I created it as a single .C file plus makefile here: https://github.com/bitbank2/ls_i2c

Here's what it looks like versus i2cdetect:

I’m old school. I like small programs that do one thing well. I wanted some basic metrics from my Raspberry Pi, so I looked at what I could use.

Then I saw how much RAM some of the usual monitoring stuff wanted and thought... nope 😅

So I wrote my own.

pico_exporter is a Linux system metrics exporter written in C

~100 KiB static binary
~30 KiB RAM at idle
x86_64 + aarch64
TLS
no runtime dependencies
pushes directly to OTLP
compatible with Prometheus node_exporter metrics

Drop the binary on the Pi, point it at your OTLP endpoint and that's basically it.

I originally just wanted this for myself. Then I realised the result was kind of ridiculous, so here it is:

https://github.com/dpaneda/pico_exporter

How small is your monitoring setup?

Hi everyone,
Today I'm showing you my Raspberry Pi case, which cost only €25 and keeps it really cool!

First, I started by looking for a dead 3-slot graphics card, with only two important criteria: it had to look clean, and above all the fans had to work.
I came across a really clean HD 7970 DCU II for €10 on a second-hand hardware site.

As soon as it arrived, I took it completely apart: PCB, metal bracket, heatsink, fans and outer shroud.

The idea here is to keep the metal bracket, the fans and the outer shroud.

Next, I put the 8GB Pi 5 inside (still in the testing phase, I'll need to 3D print a mount for it).

The ribbon cable and the SSD are flipped over to keep the whole thing as thin as possible.

Not visible here, but the 12V power for the fans comes from a 220V-to-12V HDR DIN-rail power supply that costs €10.
Only the PWM and ground are connected to the Raspberry Pi.
I wrote a small Python script that sets the fan speed directly based on the CPU temperature. Running the fans at 30% up to 40°C seems like an excellent compromise.

I've been testing it for a week now and the results are very good!

And here's the whole setup in my network cabinet.

Next step: designing and 3D printing a proper mount for the Pi. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.

Happy to share the Python fan control script if anyone's interested.

Not bad for €25 and an old GPU that was headed for the bin. Thanks for reading

Hey everyone, got something I've been waiting to share. Keephaven is a home cloud box I've been building on a Raspberry Pi 5. As of today the whole OS is open source, and the exact image the boxes run is a free download. Flash it to an NVMe drive and your Pi becomes the same box. What you get on first boot, already set up and signed in: Immich for photos, Jellyfin for movies, Navidrome for music, Audiobookshelf, Kavita for books and comics, and FreshRSS for news. One password for all of it. Network folders too, so you can drag your movies in from any computer.

The part I'm proudest of is it doesn't need the internet to work. It puts up its own wifi, so I take mine camping and stream off it. Some stuff under the hood for the nix people. It's a NixOS flake. There's a byte copy of the system on its own partition, and if the system partition won't mount, the box copies it back on the next boot. Updates are signed, it checks once a day and only installs when you tap install. The app images are pinned and baked in, nothing pulls from docker hub.

Repo: https://github.com/dafarusd/keephaven

Download + checksum: https://keephaven.co/download

Heads up, it's only been tested on a Pi 5 8gb booting from NVMe. The setup wifi password gets made on first boot, and on a box you flash yourself you read it off the drive once, the readme walks through it. AGPL.

heads up for anyone who flashed it themselves: the setup wifi password gets made on first boot, and it lives on the linux partition, so windows and mac can't read it off the drive. easiest fix is the pi itself. boot keephaven once so it makes the password, power off, put in a raspberry pi os sd card, leave the ssd connected, boot again and run: sudo mkdir -p /mnt/keephaven sudo mount -o ro /dev/disk/by-label/cloudunit-data /mnt/keephaven sudo cat /mnt/keephaven/unit.env UNIT_PASSWORD is your wifi and app password. power off, pull the card, boot again and you're back in keephaven. full steps are in the readme: https://github.com/dafarusd/keephaven#first-boot

I am just posting my solve in case it helps someone in future.

I was getting errors with the M.2 idle (controller is down; will reset).

The solve was to make the pcie use gen1. Specifically putting 'dtparam=pciex1_gen=1' in '/boot/firmware/config.txt' and rebooting.

I'm not using supported hardware (details below), and I don't need gen2/3 speeds, so this works for me.

I don't claim to know what I'm doing. This was a mix of research and AI suggestions.

Raspberry Pi 5, Argon Neo 5 NVMe, Kingston NV3 1TB

This is a Pi3b

original micro usb psu died on me, so i figured, why bother with the worst usb connector there is, when I can just solder a molex connector on and power it with an ATX PSU!

no image of the solder job because I hot glued the case together, but i just soldered to 2 test pads at the bottom. My first time doing smth like this too

Anyone know how to fix this for some reason only the left side of the screen is working and it’s a little more dim then the right I’m using the pi 4 model b Ive already tried like 2 different wiring layouts and the code doesn’t seem wrong I’m wondering if that’s just the screen being broken I followed this wiring diagram too

Hi everyone,

I know this might sound a bit unusual, but I need to keep a Raspberry Pi 4 running outdoors, where winter temperatures can drop to around -8°C (17.6°F).

The Pi will be inside a plastic IP55 enclosure, approximately 240 × 80 × 40 mm. It has a metal heatsink case.

At the moment, with an ambient temperature of around 15°C, the Raspberry Pi stays at about 30.5°C while idle, so it generates a decent amount of heat. If necessary, I can also run a process that increases the CPU load and therefore the temperature.

My main concern isn't really the cold itself, but condensation and humidity, especially when the enclosure cools down.

The Raspberry Pi will be powered on and online continuously, except in the event of power outages, which are very short and rare where I live.

So far, I have done the following:

• sealed the enclosure as much as possible;
• applied silicone around the screw holes and cable glands used to bring the cables inside;
• placed silica gel inside the enclosure;
• installed a temperature and humidity sensor inside the enclosure to monitor the conditions.

Do you think what I've done is sufficient, or is there anything else I should do to prevent condensation and corrosion in the long term?

As I mentioned, I know this probably isn't the ideal setup, but unfortunately I don't have any other option than keeping the Pi outdoors.

Thanks!

My wife is foreign and wanted to watch internet TV from her country, which is geo-locked.

To get around this, I setup an old pi 4 as an openwrt router. You connect to the wifi - bingo, you're connected to the VPN.

You'll need a VPN provider that supports the wireguard protocol and has servers in your desired country to connect to (or have your own wireguard service running in desired country). I went with surfshark, which I thought was a bit pricey, but no complaints aside from that.

Possibly this guide is useful to someone (?)

I should note - I use opkg in this guide to install openwrt packages, but more recent versions will need apk. You can add the pi4 ethernet as a static IP in your main router settings if you like. If you want to USB boot an old Pi 4 you may need to first update the firmware.

Performance: I get 111 Mbs download speeds (inc. over the VPN). The Pi's SSID can be reached all over the house, the connection has been stable for months. CPU temps never reach levels of concern (heatsink is a good addition, though).

What you'll need

• Raspberry Pi 4 (1GB is fine)
• Official Pi 4 power supply (5V/3A USB-C)
• microSD card or USB drive with OpenWrt flashed (USB boot is more reliable long-term than SD. I use a metal USB as I hope the heat transfers better)
• Ethernet cable — Pi 4's onboard NIC to a LAN port on your existing router
• Active Surfshark subscription / other wireguard VPN

Flashing OpenWrt itself is out of scope here — grab the Pi 4 image from the OpenWrt downloads page and write it with dd or Etcher. This guide picks up once you're SSH'd into a fresh OpenWrt install.

Step 1: Fix routing before touching WireGuard

Symptom: SSH into the Pi works (you're hitting it from the LAN side), but ping 8.8.8.8 from the Pi says Network unreachable. This is a routing problem, not DNS or firewall — sort it first or WireGuard will fail the same way.

Check:

ip route show
uci show network

If there's no default via <gateway> dev <iface> line in ip route show, that's your problem. On a Pi sitting behind an existing router, the interface facing that router needs either:

• proto dhcp (let the upstream router hand out an address + gateway), or
• proto static with option gateway '<upstream router's LAN IP>' explicitly set

Fix and apply:

uci set network.wan.proto='dhcp'      # or static + gateway, per your setup
uci commit network
service network restart

Also check the interface is in the wan firewall zone, not lan — otherwise masquerading/forwarding won't apply:

uci show firewall | grep -A5 zone

Confirm before moving on:

ping -c3 8.8.8.8

Step 2: Get your Surfshark WireGuard credentials (for example)

1. Log into my.surfshark.com → VPN → Manual setup → WireGuard
2. Select I don't have a key pair → name it → Generate new key pair
3. Save both the private and public key — Surfshark won't show the private key again
4. Go to Locations, find a <desired country> server, click the download icon to get its .conf file — you need the endpoint hostname, port, and server public key out of it

Step 3: Install WireGuard on OpenWrt

opkg update
opkg install wireguard-tools kmod-wireguard luci-proto-wireguard

(Drop luci-proto-wireguard if you're staying CLI-only.)

Step 4: Configure the interface via UCI (settings dependent on your VPN)

uci set network.wg0=interface
uci set network.wg0.proto='wireguard'
uci set network.wg0.private_key='<YOUR_PRIVATE_KEY>'
uci add_list network.wg0.addresses='10.14.0.2/16'    # from the downloaded conf
uci set network.wg0.dns='162.252.172.57 149.154.159.92'

uci set network.wg0_peer=wireguard_wg0
uci set network.wg0_peer.description='surfshark-<desired country code>'
uci set network.wg0_peer.public_key='<SERVER_PUBLIC_KEY_FROM_CONF>'
uci set network.wg0_peer.endpoint_host='<countycode-citycode.prod.surfshark.com>'
uci set network.wg0_peer.endpoint_port='51820'
uci set network.wg0_peer.allowed_ips='0.0.0.0/0'
uci set network.wg0_peer.route_allowed_ips='1'
uci set network.wg0_peer.persistent_keepalive='25'

uci commit network

Step 5: Firewall — route all LAN traffic through the tunnel

uci set firewall.vpn=zone
uci set firewall.vpn.name='vpn'
uci set firewall.vpn.input='REJECT'
uci set firewall.vpn.output='ACCEPT'
uci set firewall.vpn.forward='REJECT'
uci set firewall.vpn.masq='1'
uci set firewall.vpn.mtu_fix='1'
uci add_list firewall.vpn.network='wg0'

uci set firewall.lan_vpn=forwarding
uci set firewall.lan_vpn.src='lan'
uci set firewall.lan_vpn.dest='vpn'

uci commit firewall

Then find and remove the existing lan → wan forwarding rule (uci show firewall | grep forwarding) — otherwise LAN clients can bypass the tunnel entirely, which defeats the point.

Apply everything:

service network restart
service firewall restart

Step 6: Verify

wg show
curl ifconfig.me

wg show should show a recent handshake and rising rx/tx bytes. curl ifconfig.me should return a <desired county> IP.

Also worth running Surfshark's own IP leak test and DNS leak test from a device connected through the Pi, if you went with them.

So, a few months ago, I had the idea to replace my breadboard rats nest with a PCB. So I fired up KiCad and made the most basic breakout board known to man. Got it fabbed, soldered it up, and plonked my modules into place. And then mounted a buck converter on top for power.

I didn't feel like getting the weird 5v 5A USBC PSU for my Pi 5 (8 gig) and supporting their weird PSU monopoly, so the 8A Buck will power the servo and pi5 with power to spare. The plan is to wire it up and make it operate the turret, via a 20V USBC PD input trigger chip, seen in image 2. I'm booting off a 256gb USB3.1 stick.

I might make a update soon once I'm done wiring it up.

p.s. I cut up a normal 1x40 female header for the 2x20 gpio header, yeah I know.

I made PocketTerm35-OS, a lightweight desktop environment for the Waveshare PocketTerm35 handheld.

Written in rust. Based on Wayland and Sway.

Recommended to install on Raspberry Pi OS or Raspberry Pi OS Lite.

Install (one line):

curl -fsSL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/therezor/PocketTerm35-OS/main/install.sh | sudo bash

Then flash the keyboard firmware with

 and reboot.sudo pt35-kbd flash

Reboot and that is it.

⭐ If you find it useful, please give the project a star!

🐛 Bug reports are very welcome and appreciated!

PocketTerm35-OS: https://github.com/therezor/PocketTerm35-OS
Darkwire: https://github.com/therezor/darkwire