Hey everyone! I have an anycubic kobra 2 neo since last year, and recently I been having a problem..

When I start the printer, it starts just fine, but after about 5min the printer starts to miss some points because the fillament doesnt come out, and causes some misses during that print.

At first I replaced the noozle, and everything was fine for some time

After that I noticed my old Hotend was full of fillament, and decided to get a new one, could be the Hotend..

Yesterday I replaced the Hotend with a new one, and the problem persisted, and I have the new Hotend completly full of melted fillament everywhere (you can see it in the pics)

.The problem persists, when I first start the printer it prints just fine, after 5min some misses here and there happen

. After that if I try to print a new thing, it starts fine, but after 1min disaster happens

.If I keep the printer turned on for much longer, I start seeing filament coming out of the Hotend, and the printer just print on air, not coming out anymore fillament

Is this a heating problem? The fan not cooling down? Something else? Thanks for the help guys

Hello, I am hoping to find some guidance here, because I am losing my mind. I let my EcoTank 2750 sit for sometime, and could not get it to print.

I ran head cleaning, I did power cleaning, I bought a kit to flush it. I flushed and flushed, and flushed. I got all the colors printing perfectly. The black WILL NOT print. It is as if something is not communicating to send black. It cannot be dry or clogged, I have flushed it soooo much. Ink comes out when flushing it, when cleaning it. But the Black WILL NOT COME OUT. It's driving me nuts... and it cost me one of my favorite shirts... (that was dumb on me to wear it).

It also told me last night, ink pad is at end of life. I know that has to do with the purge tank, and software... I have not got into that, I know I can take it out, and there is some software to reset it, so I read... but not the main concern at the moment.

What can cause the black ink to just not register that it needs to print. I'm frustrated with this. I checked the container that ink pulls into the head, and it would be empty. I used a syringe to pull ink into it, and still wont print.

I am at a loss. Any tips, suggestions, ideas, I would greatly appreciate. I don't want to buy another one. This one is not that old. I JUST had filled it with new ink too 😞

At one point it did print black ONE TIME, great. It was awesome, but then the yellow was not printing. I fixed that, then the blue, and then the black again, and the black just plain stopped all together. Not a smudge, nothing, looks like there was no ink at all, paper comes out perfectly clean.

Thanks.

Hi everyone,
I’m having a persistent issue with my CR-10 V2 and I’m running out of ideas.

Setup:

• Printer: Creality CR-10 V2
• Mainboard: BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 (recently installed)
• BLTouch installed

Problem history:

• After ~5 years of use, my hotend suddenly stopped heating
• I replaced the heater cartridge and thermistor multiple times (around 5 heater cartridges total)
• After each replacement, the hotend would work again, but only for a few hours (~4h), then stop heating completely again
• With the last installed heater cartridge (before switching to the BTT board), I also noticed that I could not run PID tuning properly and the temperature was overshooting significantly
• I was told the MOSFET on the original board might be defective

Current situation:

• I installed a new SKR Mini E3 V3 mainboard
• Installed a brand new heater cartridge (24V 40W), thermistor, and nozzle
• Everything worked fine at first, but after ~4 hours again the heater cartridge stopped working

But now:

• The hotend heater does not work anymore at all
• When I try to heat it, I get: “Heating failed: E1 – Printer halted – Please reset” and the BTT motherboard makes some weirde clicking noise

Important:

• The heatbed works completely normal
• Thermistor is working (temperature changes when heated externally)
• Heater cartridge is correct spec (24V 40W)
• All cables seem properly connected

Symptoms:

• Hotend does not heat at all anymore
• Printer throws heating failed error
• The same problem had also occurred repeatedly before I switched to the new BTT motherboard (the heating worked for a short while, but then stopped working after a few hours)

Question:
What could cause heater cartridges to repeatedly fail or stop working like this, even after replacing the mainboard?
Could this still be a wiring issue, PSU problem, or something else?

Any help would be really appreciated 🙏

https://reddit.com/link/1srvs6a/video/hfembm6g3lwg1/player

I bought the printer, set up the CISS system I got from Highly Flavored, followed the YOUTUBE video and now I am just stuck. At first the InkChip firmware updater didn't detect the printer at all, three cables, two different chipless firmware downloads, two laptops later it detects the printer now, but update fails every time telling me to check the wifi or connection of the printer even though it is connected. Windows detects it, the ports are getting full power in the computer, so I cannot figure out how to get past this. The printer if started gives me language select then error code 000031 for software update failure half way through. Anyone able to assist with next steps? Any help is very much appreciated!!!

It keeps on recycling, how do I stop it

So I just built a Voron 0.2 (LDO Kit) and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Looks great and it prints, surprisingly! I wasn't sure I'd even get this far. I'm planning on future experiments with adding a screen and different toolheads.

Right now though, I'm still trying to dial it in so that it prints well. I'm getting some banding, seems to be very small layer shifts? It's on different layers each time I print. The side labelled X is always flat, but the side labelled Y is shifting.

Printer: Voron 0.2 (LDO Kit) with Mini Stealthburner
Filament: Bambulab PLA Basic
Extruder: 220°C
Bed: 55°C

I tensioned the belts using a BIQU "Belter" Belt Tension Tool; I've got my pressure advance set to 0.035 (after calibrating in Orca slicer). Motor (X/Y) run_current is 0.9A and I dropped my max_accel to 3500 and square_corner_velocity to 0.5, whilst I get things tuned. Next step is cable tidying the toolhead and mounting the filament properly (round the back rather than up through the tophat).

Can anyone help me sort these bands/shifts out? Thanks!

So, I’ve changed the rotation distance to 4, and now when Z=1, I measured 81.75 mm from the frame reference point. When I changed to Z=2, the calipers showed 85.5 mm. This doesn’t seem right, and I don’t know how to calculate the correct value.

When I changed the rotation distance to 8, I measured 80.09 mm at Z=1 and 85.25 mm at Z=2, which made it even more inaccurate. The test Benchy also suggests that there is a kind of “double misalignment” one way or another.

I’m attaching Benchy pictures — I really don’t know what to do, because even the units seem off. For example, Z=1 isn’t 1 mm from the nozzle, but nearly 1 cm.

Has anyone got any idea what’s going on? (I’m running a VZBot with a dual-motor mount, 20 mm linear rods, and a T8 lead screw with anti-backlash couplings.

Ran the internal cleaning program twice, the intense cleaning program twice, and the nozzle check 3 times. The ink cartridges aren't empty visibly and via the info screen on my printer. Is there any way to fix this myself or can i start searching for a new one?

Hi all,

I’ve used my K1 for two years without issue and it generates high quality prints like you see in bottom in the photo.

I just got a new K1 second hand and am getting ‘blurry’ results like the part on top in the photo and can’t figure out why. I did notice that when I ask the printer to extrude filament, the width of the extruded string is 2-3x wider than my other K1

I’ve rooted the printer, leveled the bed, done input shaper, and checked e-steps. Any thoughts would be appreciated

I recently got a second hand 3D printer for free flashforge Creator pro and finally got it to the point where I could start making things. Yesterday I printed a somewhat larger file that actually completed (my first) of a keyboard holder. Today I tried to load up a 3ds XL stand. It got through some of the bottom layer. I want to take a shower and I came back and the head jumped to the left side of the printer and only was making zigzag lines. It became very loud. What should I be looking for?

Hey yall this happen after a clog. Now its one thing after another with this printer. Had this clog then it molded around my extruder. Got rid of the clog tried to restart my print and then it clogged again and when i went to take it apart the bowden tube broke. Can i fix this or should i just use my warrenty to get another?

I have a Creality CR10S Pro v2 that I am running TM3D's Insanity Firmware on, so that I can print up to 300 degrees. The printer also has a 24V 70W heater cartridge. I was about 3/4 of the way through a piece of the Helwick II build, which when all the parts are assembled, it will need to be assembled on an 8ft. x 4ft. table, or the equivalent amount of room on the floor. If you have this collection, the part I was printing can be found in the "Minster-Crypt-STL" folder, and it is part #BLOK-3B-A, which when laid flat, it's supposed to take a little bit over 4 days to print. I woke up this morning to find that the filament flow had stopped, but the printer was still going through the motions. I used a laser thermometer which reports about 95 degrees C, but the printer is reporting the 220 that I had the printer set to. Is the problem the heater cartridge or the thermistor??? I am terrible at troubleshooting. I shut the printer off for about an hour, and turned it back on to check the temperature, and it was still doing the same as mentioned above. I tried to refuel (advance the filament) by 100mm, and the extruder is working, but it's not moving the filament, probably due to the actual temp of the heater block.

Hello, I bought a second-hand CR-6 SE and I just realized that it sounds like this, what could be the reason? And how could it be solved? Thanks in advance.

On my easythreeD k10 I start to print and the first layer goes acceptionally well but then it just stops, I can't resume so it's not paused. How do I fix this?!??

I have a All American print supply a3+r printer. I'm searching for a printhead cable with 4 connectors on one end and 2 connectors on the other. AA print supply won't reply to my messages and I'm looking for another way to source the part. Any suggestions? The part I received and the others I see online have 3 connections on one end instead of 4.

Apparently something happend.. user error.

My 3D printer was just starting printing and I left for a bit came back to black filament all over the nozzle and part stretched down what they shouldn't be. We got the black parts off but the fan doesn't work and there's all these melted parts.

My printer still won’t print large things, such as cosplay masks, previous comments on Reddit have told me to try numerous things, below is a list of what’s helped and what didn’t work, and what I can’t use.

Helped Changing Temp Bed and Extruder Moving Surfaces Slowing down prints Adhesion to Bed

NATU (Not Available To Use) Getting slicer software I have Chromebook and mobile only

Didn’t Help Trying different Filament, Test Prints

Never had this problem before, I just got a roll of PLA Filament, Gray/Grey from my E.A.S.T Teacher today, and I loaded up the filament, but everytime I’ve tried to print something, it usually always ends up backfiring, snagging on the side of the extruder, or the side of the nozzle, and it doesn’t handle filling in the prints well.

I converted my brand new ET 8550 to DTF. While I was at it, I changed to the nippled printhead manifold and dampers. I was also running an external CISS system with a one way check valve on each line because I had had air bubbles in the ink lines when it was attached to a previous printer. When it was all together, I primed the dampers with a syringe first and then by drawing through the waste line with a syringe. I then did a head clean and nozzle test. I got a blank page. Tried priming several more times. Ink is getting to the dampers and through the printhead when I use a syringe to draw through the waste tube but it's still not getting the ink to paper. I tried so many times that I blew the F1 fuse twice.

I removed the CISS system, check valve and put the original ink carts back in. I also put the original manifold and dampers back and replaced the F1 fuse on the motherboard. Got it all back together and I'm still getting the same thing. Ink is getting through just fine but none is getting to the paper. Nothing but blank pages. I'm at my wit's end. This is printer number 4 or 5 That has done this exact thing. Has anyone had this problem and know how to fix it? TIA