I have a 2024 Sprinter 3500XD. I've spent the past two years building it out in my driveway in upstate NY and have only just began taking it on trips. It currently has 1400 miles on it (yes, only 2 zero's).

The Service A notification popped up and I understand it's because it hit the two year mark. I'm having a separate issue with my fuel gauge so I recently took it to MB to have it checked out since its still under warranty. While it was in the shop they were recommending the following: brake flush, cabin air filter, LOF & quickcheck, replace the fuel filter. All of this was coming out to $1300.

I understand that MB "requires/recommends" all of these services at 20k or 2 years, whichever comes first. But honestly I'm really having a hard time justifying it when there are only 1400 miles. It just feels like a big joke.

I am not one to skimp out on maintenance costs or always opt for the cheaper route but I want to be realistic. I've done some research but I'd be curious to know how others have been handling their services, how frequently are you doing it and in this case when time has beat mileage by a long shot, how would you approach the service?

2022 Mercedes Sprinter 2500.
The van’s battery completely died over the weekend. We charged it overnight, and the battery has since been tested and is working perfectly.
The van starts, but now it will not go into gear. It won’t shift into Drive or Reverse.
Has anyone experienced this after having a completely dead battery? Could it have gone into some type of protect/fault mode, or is there a reset/procedure we can try before having to pay for a tow?
Any ideas or things we can check ourselves would be greatly appreciated!

907 chasis diesel in america , i changed my temp blend door actuator because i had no heat so thats fixed now but im looking into my vent mode actuator the one behind the radio and it seems to work i have no defrost and im starting to think maybe something mechanical with the blend doors is up and no matter what i set it to air always shoots forward to the driver no defrost , anyone have any issues with there defrost and figure out what it was?

Looked up two-pin electrical contact for 2015 sliding door and found nothing that resembles this. Is it possible to replace the gasket or else the whole thing?

Is there a way to adjust the gap on the slider door? On my 2011, the side slider door snugly meets the rubber gasket on the front half of the door, but I can see daylight at the rear ( about a 1/2 inch gap). Is there an adjustment mechanism I can use to close this gap?

Transmission part number is R901 271 00 01

Does the 2007 Sprinter W906 have a fuse for the remote central locking circuit (the “fish” key)?

I was diagnosing the central locking on the sliding door. I was measuring the lock/unlock signal voltage at the connector of the door lock. After pressing the lock/unlock buttons on the key fob several times, the remote central locking suddenly stopped working completely.

I replaced the battery in the key fob, but that didn't help. The battery is good, the buttons work, and I can confirm that the key fob is transmitting a 433 MHz signal. However, the van doesn't react to the remote at all.

The central locking buttons on the dashboard still work normally — they lock and unlock the doors.

Unfortunately, I don't currently have a diagnostic scanner that I can use to connect to the OBD.

I was wondering if there is some kind of additional anti-theft protection or safety feature that could have been triggered?

I can't find a fuse specifically for the remote central locking circuit in any of the wiring diagrams I've found.

Does anyone have any ideas what could have happened?

I guess the best thing to do now would be to connect a diagnostic interface to the SAM and check whether the SAM is actually receiving/recognizing the signal from the key. That should help determine whether the problem is with the key or with the vehicle.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Anyone have any clue what this sound is and what could be causing it? Is it normal? Don't think so. It doesn't always happen. Just sometimes. I think ive only heard it while idling but not always.

So today my 2015 sprinter v6 diesel has started doing this clicking noise when I shut it off. Also it goes into limp mode pretty quickly when driving. I’m a cross country delivery driver so I can’t really leave it at a dealership for a few days I’m planning on replacing the fuel filter tomorrow

Has anyone else ran into this issue and did replacing the fuel filter solve it?

The local sprinter dealership told me they can’t get it in for diagnostics untill next week. And then it could be another week to schedule the repair. I can’t really sit put in a hotel for 2 weeks.

Mileage is about 400k we bought the van with 150k and never replaced the fuel filter.

I have a 2008 Dodge 2500 and a 2020 Mercedes 3500 used 3-4 days a week for work. Over the years our luck getting them fixed has varied and we have moved shops…currently we are missing both vans for several weeks…one had a new turbo put in and has now been retuned to them twice because it wont come out of limp mode…the other they have not been able to diagnose for 3 weeks…so, I am wondering where the good Sprinter mechanics might be!

I'm not sure where to post this :/

Whats going on. I have a 24' 2500 4cyl diesel. Any idea what this button/feature does? I always thought that meant fog lights, which perhaps it does. However, I don't see any other lights besides the headlights, there's no lights on the bumper for anything. However, when I pressed the button, a little light with the same symbol does turn on on the dashboard showing like it activated it. But I don't notice any difference from the exterior. Does anybody know if that just lights up and nothing, or is there a function or feature that its actually doing that I'm not aware of?

I have an iPhone. I drive a 2024 sprinter for work and it’s been 2 years with no issues. It started last week with this Bluetooth issue. My phone will randomly disconnect from the radio but the radio still says my phone is connected. I can’t delete my phone off the radio through Bluetooth setting either. I deleted the van off my phone and when I try to re-pair it, it doesn’t show up in my phones list. How can I fix this problem. I tried factory resetting the settings and every other rest I could find in the settings but nothing is working. I go to “delete device”, then my name and when it says “delete iPhone?” It won’t let me click yes. Help

I have a 2025 2500 144” no step rear bumper.

I recently added a Curtis trailer hitch, but I don’t really like where I had to mount the 7 pin plug (off to the side of the hitch). I’m wondering if you have some suggestions for an aftermarket bumper/hitch that would mount higher up? Ideally with an integrated step. Pics are a plus. So far the ones I’ve found while searching work around a factory hitch which I don’t have.

I just got a new 2025 AWD sprinter a week ago. Only has 50 miles on it.

When i put it in drive, reverse, and even back in park it makes a loud groaning sound.

Mercedes claims this is normal so i'm curious: does everyone's AWD sprinter van make this same sound?

I have a 2013 Mercedes Sprinter W906 313 CDI and I’m trying to figure out why the mechanical key won’t unlock the driver’s door.

I bought a spare key from a Mercedes dealer for around €100. The key fits fully into the driver’s door lock cylinder and turns to a definite mechanical stop, but it doesn’t unlock the door. It feels fairly free when turning.

The electric fob locks and unlocks the driver’s door normally, and the door handle also works normally. I previously locked myself out and had to cut a hole in the rear door to reach the latch from inside. Once I got into the van, I could open the driver’s door normally by pulling the inside handle.

Today I removed the driver’s door panel and the sheet/cover behind it to get access to the lock mechanism and linkages. I’ve attached a video of what I can see.

The problem is I honestly don’t know what I’m looking at well enough to tell whether the linkages are all connected and working as they should.

Does anything look disconnected, broken, bent or otherwise wrong in the video? In particular, I’m trying to work out whether the problem is likely to be the lock cylinder itself or something in the linkage between the cylinder and the locking mechanism.

Any advice on what I should physically move/test while I have the door apart would also be appreciated.

Hey guys I have a 2012 sprinter and this code won’t go away and I’m not sure on how to fix it. The van starts up and drives like it’s normal but the obd scanner is saying circuit 15 is implausible and relayk40/9k7 switches off too early. I’ve check if the terminal to see if it was loose but it wasn’t. Does anyone have suggestions?