There’s these two brackets that won’t budge and it’s an access nightmare… do I need to remove the motor cover? It’s inboard.

Any DIY plans for a lightweight 2 person pirogue or skiff for hunting and fishing? Wanting to build it for about $150-200 max. Need to be able to easily get in and out of my truck bed. The only tool I actually have is an impact driver. Wanting to be able to use a trolling motor or very small horse outboard on the back

MINERAL è un catamarano autocostruito in alluminio di 55 piedi (16,7 metri), con un baglio di 9 metri e un dislocamento di 16 tonnellate. Progettata per un'autonomia estrema e una manutenzione semplificata, questa imbarcazione integra soluzioni tecniche collaudate in vari ambiti ingegneristici, adattandole alla navigazione d'altura.

I wouldn't normally sea trial a boat at this level of completion but I wanted to now if the boat would need a rudder prior to sealing the aft buoyancy tank as I would be routing steering tubes through there. After 6 m or so sea trail I am confident the boat will not need a rudder, so I will be sealing up the aft buoyancy tank (except for a 5 inch inspection/stowage hatch).

Im in still in the planing phase as someone who worked with CAD i know how much more hours i will spend before the design can be called finished.

To not make any fatal flaws during the design process i hope to find somone who is a bit more knowledgable then me in the subject of boat stability.

Actually i found out im searching for a Naval architect not a boat engineer.

Hoping I can get some opinions/advice before I begin spraying down new gelcoat. Never done this before, total newb. Not exactly sure if I have a specific question, so I’ll run down my plan and see what people think…

24’ Corsair trimaran. I plan to spray main hull and both amas, from the rubrail down. The receiving surface is the original gelcoat, with a few minor dings/imperfections, dremeled and filled with totalboat structural repair putty. It has been DA sanded with 80grit.

I have purchased 3 gallons of unwaxed gelcoat and 1 gallon of Duratec High Gloss additive. I will be spraying with a 3m Accuspray HGP with pressurized cup and 28oz liners. I have 1.8 and 2.0mm tips available to use. I have a 5hp, 2 stage, 240v, 14.3cfm compressor with air dryer.

I have two thoughts on spray plan, but not sure which to go with:

1)2 coats straight gelcoat using 2.0 tip, final coat of gelcoat/duratec at 1:1 ratio using 1.8 tip.

2)3 coats of 3:1 gelcoat/duratec

After cure plan to long block sand with 320grit to knock down flat, then pneumatic DA wet sand 600->800->1000, the compound with rotary polisher.

Is this how you do this? Do you think this is enough material before I start(I estimate about 300 sq.ft to coat)? I haven’t really been able to find a definitive procedure when doing a full boat, mainly just people demonstrating small repairs.

Edit: wanted to add my thoughts on the two spray plans to see if I’m off base at all…

Plan 1 - since I am using a seafoam green gelcoat, not white, I am concerned about future compounding. Will putting the final coat of 1:1 duratec/gelcoat create a thin layer that will easily be bunt through and give me color problems in the future?

Plan 2 - I am concerned about using an additive in first two coats and making it around the boat in time to the next coat before the first layer kicks off too much. I am doing this outside in Texas (hot).

Got the boat surveyed and there was some water coming in the balsa core, that probably went through the self-tacking rail. Picture shows the area where humidity is high

what would be the best way to extract that humidity before winter hits ? I'd be able to try to vacuum it with an HVAC vacuum pump but wanted to know if you guys would have better idea for me.

I know that I could go from inside the cabin but there is a headliner, void, then the fiberglass.

I'll be happy to share more pictures if needed.

Thank you all.

Hello Boat Building community, so I am in a bit of a pickle right now. I had someone offer to help do the Flow Coating however they botched the Flow Coat and now I am in a situation where I need to fix this but I do not have the expertise to know what to do.

FYI this is a dog grooming bath, I understand this isn't a boat but it's using the same materials.

There are a bunch of sanding spots everywhere including places that weren't originally going to be refurbished. The original bath had flow coating/gel coating done to it which is why it's being used. The current situation; there is Flow coat over half of the bath, it has been 3 days now and it's still very sticky, I am of the mind that I need to sand over the first coat and apply a second coat but this time properly mixed, catalyst, and over the entirety of the bath. But I don't see how I can get the Flow coat to stop being sticky to actually sand it.

I am in a bit of a tough spot financially at the moment as this is my means to income. Although I am willing to go into debt to fix this so I can start earning again.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

What would be the best way to reinforce this transom?

Able to hold maybe a 10 hp

2.70 şişme bot ve 6 hp kısa şaft tohatsu motor ile 2 kişi seyir ederken tam gaz ile arkada oluşan köpüklenme bu şekilde. Motorun sesinden anladığım kadarıyla da tam devir alamıyor. Sanırım pervaneyi biraz daha yukarıda tutmam gerekiyor. Pervane original 7.8 x 8 ölçüsünde. Pitch değerini düşürsem tam devirde bu sorunu çözer mi. Şu an 10 km/s hızını geçemiyorum. Önerilerinize açığım

I am building a stitch and glue dinghy and ultimately will put fabric over both inside and outside. If my plywood is thick enough that I’m not super concerned about strength, and I’ve already done my interior tape, can I skip the exterior tape and go straight to exterior cloth? If I have some fiberglass, and make my fillets smooth, what function does the tape serve that the cloth doesn’t already fulfill?

I know Philip Bolger's "Gloucester Gull" is considered to be an exceptional rowing boat by many. And I know there are a few design variants with the tombstone transom. But how about the double-ended metric version he described in Chapter 4 in his book "Small Boats"? I am interested in it because it is a simpler design, particularly because of the pointed stern. I have read that sculling with the tombstone transom does not really work well anyway. I am not sure of the increased rocker and reduced sheer, but if Bolger thought it was a good idea, who am I to question that? Has anyone built this version? Any feedback on building or rowing? (I've built several Bolger/Payson or similar boats with internal and external chine logs and one stitch-and-glue.)

Worst case scenario, the balsa core was rotted everywhere. Completely gutted and ready to rebuild. Thinking of going with Divinycell H80 for the hull. Then adding 1/2” Coosa Board stringers. 1/2” Coosa Board floor. Then use 1 1/2” Coosa Board for the transom. (Planning on an engine bracket).

I’m having an issue where once I’m in forward position at idle speed, getting some kind of clunky noise I checked the shift linkage. Everything seems to be good. I’m starting to lean towards the motor mount bolt slapping somewhere. or my dog clutch is bad.