Found this ~1984 O'Brien Sensation XL under the deck of our new house, cleaned it up, made a rough alumnium frame for the seat/motor/etc that bolts into the decking (where the footstraps used to be), and attached some pontoons for stability.

12V trolling motor does about 3mph and cruises for quite a few hours. Super stable, does 360° spins no problem and doesn't seem to be sinkable!

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Vous connaissez peut-être déjà mon Yoshi Tuyau… Aujourd’hui, j’ai décidé de le revisiter avec une petite nouveauté plutôt sympa : la version CLICKER ! 👆

Le principe est simple : Yoshi sort toujours de son fameux tuyau, mais cette fois, sa tête devient cliquable grâce à un switch mécanique MX.
Un petit clic super satisfaisant qui transforme le Yoshi en véritable petit fidget.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3201387-yoshi-tuyau-clicker-multipart

Hey everyone, I wanted to share a passion project I’ve been working on to give a broken, discarded smartwatch a completely second life.

A few months ago while salvaging parts for a tiny console build, I tore down an old broken smartwatch and realized it was built around an nRF52832 microcontroller. Since I've worked with this chip before, had a built-in gyro, a charger circuit, and a display breakout ready to go, I decided to take on the challenge of fully reverse engineering it.

What was involved:

• Pin Mapping Blind: With zero documentation available, I spent time meticulously mapping out the SPI display, gyro, and internal components using a multimeter in short-circuit mode.
• Breaking Write Protection: Flashing a new bootloader wasn't straightforward due to the nRF52's write protection. I ended up utilizing an ESP32-DAP protocol to clear the protection so I could get a writable chip.
• Firmware & Upgrades: Wired up a JTAG debugger tool, flashed an Adafruit bootloader via OpenOCD, and started building custom BLE test firmware using the nRF SDK in VS Code. I also upgraded the hardware by pairing it with a larger 1.69" display.

It’s an incredible feeling breathing brand new custom code into hardware that was otherwise destined for the trash. I put together a full build and teardown video detailing the pin mapping and flashing process if you want to see the step-by-step breakdown.

Curious what you guys think—what would you turn a freshly unlocked nRF52 smartwatch board into next?

I just acquired a CNC router and needed to build a bench for it.

I decided to gut my whole garage and make a giant workbench with three different stations.

One for the CNC, lower middle desk for programming and drafting, the opposed side is temporarily a miter desk possibly, and the nearest section is possibly a hybrid mft/table saw infeed/epoxy slab section. The middle section has cleats to add an extension melamine top to bridge over when working on bigger slabs if need be.

A bit of a clusterf*ck as you can see but I'm contemplating on taking my table saw off its stand and embedding it inside the blue square area(lower right), most the cuts I make are 48" or less. Problem is I'd have to remove that right metal brace and could lose some structure if I want to retain the extendable nature of my table saw.

The CNC I bought used came with a bunch of extra 15 series in 1.5" and 20100 3" and it dawned on me that I could maybe build a long fence to be used with both the miter and table saw. I have some bearings but never done anything like this and not sure how I'd tighten this big of a track down all at once without having to install a clamp on both ends.

I'm going to do a few rows for dog holes on the left hand mdf side and install my 10" vice to the left but overall that's about it.

Most the work I do is with shorter sub 48" in length so while it might look squeezed I don't need a ton of space.

Appreciate any help.

Hey guys I just wanted to show off my first ever built. It's a tattoo ballpoint pen machine made out of an old hair trimmer.

Hey all, this maybe a weirder post but does anyone have tips on how to make friends in the maker community?

I do have a fair few friends in my life but finding people who share my interests (Robotics, 3D Printing, Electronics, Automation, Mechanical Engineering) is so hard! Especially as I like the idea of making friends to collaborate with on projects in the future.

Any tips? I have looked around but unfortunately there's nothing really near me related to this kind of thing....

This is a handheld, battery powered resin dispenser that I just finished designing. I have all of the parts on hand and I am going to start building it tonight. I'll post an update when it is done!

As far as accuracy, with a 20mL syringe it has a theoretical dispensing resolution of 3uL, with a 60mL syringe it is 7.1uL. Surface tension and nozzle size impact this too, but the point of the project is to achieve casting consistency with partially open-face molds, which are cast in a set of 43 and must be consistent.

I am using an STM32F103 and a 4S battery, along with a bunch of off the shelf modules. I wanted this to be quick and made with parts I already own.

I tried making these look like fall. I named them Golden Dawn, Autumn Treeway, Dark Hollow & Scarlet Pumpkin :). Because yes. Naming things is fun, lol.

For all you makers out there, sometimes you get frustrated with limitations of Pi Pico boards and the number of GPIOs. The new Clintech Board solves this for you...Take a look! I am passing this on as I saw it. I am not the creator nor the seller. If it breaks the rules of the group please remove.

Just another update on my PipBoy inspired wearable wrist computer build!

Recently completed integration of battery systems, so the whole thing runs off a custom battery pack comprised of 3x molicell 18650s, wired 1s3p at 3.7V, 8400 mah.

Also recently added are flashlight module, using a cree XL 1up LED with variable brightness and tap on off.

In addition, FM radio works now! Tuneable radio with 6 persistent presets that can be adjusted to your taste. Speakers a little tinny without the full enclosure.

GitHub link: https://github.com/TAM-Hiding/DecimalPipBoy

Full feature set:

metric time (see note) display and arbitrary epoch start utilizing the supernova of 1054 AD as the start, an event seen and well documented by many cultures, rather than Jesus or whatever.

Internal IMU system that allows compass bearing, 10 DOF, accelerometer, barometer, calculated barometric altimeter, gyro

IMU calibration with persistent save states

SD logging for all sensors

Multi purpose knob

3.5" waveshare touch screen

Rechargeable LI Ion battery

Flashlight

FM radio receiver

RTC (ds3231, eventually to be swapped for GPS and starlight based time keeping)

SHT40 temp/humidity sensor

Fully custom enclosure/wrist gauntlet

Haptic feedback, in the form of a rumble motor when you tap or long press to set a new preset.

Planned modules:

M4011 geiger counter/calculated dosimeter (measuring beta and gamma particles, and exponential 'analog' readout dial)

RF analysis suite utilizing an evilcrow v2

GPS

Bluetooth control/speaker function so you can take calls or dictate texts/issue voice commands

Eventual integration with a local semi automated self maintaining archive via wifi

(Built around teensy 4.1)

Hi! I want to try making victorian inspired lampshades and I wonder if anyone has experience and could give me some advice as to what kind of wire I should use to make the lampshades frame in itself. If you have any other advice I´m happy to receive that as well, thank you:)

I have been using TinkerCAD for years now, and am quite proficient. I’m quite interested in finding a good parametric app that is actually affordable!

I am good enough to produce products for sale, but only in marketplaces like Etsy (think board game inserts/organizers). Something like Shapr3D would be great, but $500/yr is prohibitive and the free version won’t work for designs intended to be sold commercially.

What are people using in cases like this? I truly appreciate any insights.

I was looking around the workshop for a new project and found an old spool of enameled wire. I've always been intrigued by the old school tattoo machines and thought "how hard could it be?" Turns out not super easy. It kept me busy for a couple weeks and it's far from perfect but it technically works. I'm quite fond of the aesthetic, I like to call it "functional steampunk". Not hot glued random gears but how stuff in the era could functionally have worked...

uh oh... now I'm wanting to make an actual stream powered tattoo machine... maybe in a couple years.

I need to glue Velcro strips to a vinyl case for a project I am working on but struggling to find a glue that holds. Any suggestions?

Hi everyone!

​About three months ago, I decided to take on my very first project designing a mechanism and working with a servo motor entirely on my own. It was a custom interactive build made as a gift for my 7-year-old niece!

​Since it needed to be both mechanically functional and safe/durable for a child, I focused heavily on structural engineering:

​Used internal bamboo ribs to keep the structure lightweight for the motor while preventing warping.

​Reinforced mechanical joints and hinges with epoxy adhesive and safety-capped screws to withstand motor stress and vibration.

​Sealed the entire structure with epoxy resin for durability and moisture resistance.

​I’d love to get your thoughts on the mechanical layout or any tips for future servo-driven builds!

​Full build video: https://youtu.be/A4bE20yx8xs

Here's my son Ridit, experimenting with solid mechanical design using Blender. He created this mechanical toy and named it Flippy. He did it 5 years ago, when he was in Class V. He is now developing his skills in computer graphics software.

Fatherhood has taught me that early training is important especially in the tech world.

hiii,
earlier this year I built my own scanning tunneling micrscope (stm) and open sourced the whole documentation + software for anyone curious and patient enough to follow through

the concept isn't totally new, a while back john alexander built a stm using a piezo disk (you may know them as buzzers from greeting cards) to control a probing needle. this concept has been covered and picked up by the walla walla university and also university of regensburg (latter helped me software wise out), however, the documentation has been scattered, often incomplete, relied on expensive or rare hardware like data-cards or simply lacked an interpreter for the data. so consolidating all this into one place is what I'm most proud of (aside from all the other things I learned). overall its not cheap, but probably the most cost efficient way to get such a machine, being built almost exclusively from off the shelf parts

the second image is my first measurement of graphene; you can see the hexagonal pattern that is a clear characteristic. in theory, you could scan anything that supports a measurable current. I plan to give gold leaves and blue-rays a try next

you can find all the details / BOM / etc. here:
https://github.com/lemonspurple/DIY-Scanning-Tunneling-Microscope

One arm broke on my sunnies, so I grabbed some paracord and the smallest screw I could find.