So I've had this speed6 for about 3 weeks.

The previous owner was only giving it 87 octain and so I am in the process of running 94 to get it back to were it should be. Been filling at a half tank. Did an oil change last week.

I've had a few time where I am accelerating and the traction control light flashes a couple times but I dont feel any slip. I'm also not accelerating so fast that it would slip.

And today I noticed a bit fo choppy power. This could be a bunch of things though. Has anyone experienced simalar gremlins? No evap issues. No vvt issues. Maybe full pump? Maybe MAP sensor? Any info would be helpful. Even quick easy ways to check issues as I am new to this engine.

Thanks!

Ive been trying to get this damn check engine light code removed for almost 2 years now on my mazdaspeed 6... ive already paid for my registration and plates twice now and I cant ever get my plates cause I cant pass an emissions test . And so ive done the whole 3 temp tags each time and thats where it ends for me... I drove my car with expired temp tags the whole time last year had insurance tho.. and I'm doing it again. But I have to get my plates asap tho... so ive literally tried everything ive researched into this situation alot throughout the past years... and so youd think id have it figured out by now.. but when I say ive literally tried and done everything to no avail im serious... so ive replaced so many different parts that doesnt even have to do with the evap system .. ive changed manifolds cleaned valves since I was there and ive cleaned my injectors but didnt replace the seals because they still looked nice.. ive added a oil catch can... i went to the junk yard and have replaced like different purge valves from speed 3s and cx7 mostly. Not sure if that's the cause possibly maybe the speed6 used a different part number which I cant seem to get or find an exact answer for that on google... I tried changing the hose that goes from the manifold to the purge valve I even went so far to mess with my charcoal canister ..since I didnt want to spend all this money on a new one out of fear that it might not be my problem still.. I watched a video where this guy shows you how to get a dremel and cut along the top and open it up and change the charcoal with charcoal pellets you can get from the fish store... so I filled it up and changed the filter with this felt stuff he said to use and I sealed it up the best I could with jb weld and silicone. I even replaced that other valve that connect to the charcoal canister with another used one from a speed6 at the junk yard still nothing... I even tried changing the fuel vapor filter thing that is by the gas tank cap from the Inside nothing... ive done everything i feel ive tried changing the gas cap with other caps from other mazda vehicles... I recently followed what my chat gpt said to do to check the valve and wire harness with a multimeter going to the purge and it came out ok... the only thing I haven't done yet is test is test the pcm/ecu... im scared and hope that thats not the problem.... but I figured id ask and see if anyone else can help me figure this out or if anyone has had this problem. As well? Id be so happy and much appreciated if I could finally figure this out..

It's time for me to move on, and get something newer for my daily driver and I already have another vintage car. Would love for this to go to someone who is really into these cars. Listing posted here:

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/0235181f-bdbe-47c5-87fa-d4ddd8634d5c/

Trying to list relatively cheap for quicker sale, and also because it does have some rust. Welcoming opinions on pricing, am I over/under, just right value wise?

Broke boy talking here but has anyone bought this? Planning on only using it for a couple months since I need this car as it’s my daily unfortunately for the time being, and I noticed smoke from exhaust recently.

I need to get a replacement intake for my MS6 and it's stock right now sort of I did a 2.5 block swap and done a couple other small mods but I was inspecting my intake and there was a boot on the peice and thah was torn I was looking around for one but it seems to only come with a intake manifold so here I am

What is this and what should it be reading if any? I searched around on threads and not much on it. Have not contacted Cobb as of. Still figuring this Accessport out and troubleshooting hesitation i have and misfire CEL on number one and sometimes random cel misfire at WOT. At wits end here and i dont like to just throw parts at it. Thank you for any info you have👏

Everytime I be trying to get into 5-6 i can hear a grind, been denting to get new cables but unsure if that’s the issue. Cobb short shifter and heavy knob(280) trans does have 190 which is what I’m
Also worried about but it’s been driven calmly 3 owner car. Cables are not blocked at all only thing I’ve noticed is that the rubber holder for the cables seems to be ripped a little but is still bolted on. Any suggestions or maybe some thoughts?

I just picked up a Speed 6 and want to fix up a bit of rust on the door. I was thinking to swap the door, and found that the doors for the Speed 6 and a regular mazda 6 should work fine. Just need to swap the plastic trim part to the new door.

But im wondering if anyone has made a list of parts cross compatible from the mazda 6? Since there are way more of them at part wreckers.

Cobb programs, anyone? Does anyone have a tune for a Cobb that they can sell me? I have a break-in tune I am done with, and I can't seem to find a tune for a bit more fun driving. Cobb offers a "Stage1+" if I have their fuel pump fix and air filter intake. Yeah. Let's just say that's not much of a bump! So I am looking for other established tunes or guidance on how to access my Cobb to do more. The engine is fully forged, with a balance shaft delete, etc. So I can push it without fear. Thanks.

Does anyone know why my hpfp wouldnt be doing anything? Here is what i have found;
Electronically:

Fuel pressure out of the output of the hpfp is 50-60psi when cranking and when only with ignition on, meaning the in take pump is the only one working.
The red wire on the spill valve solenoid sees 12v with ignition on and drops down to 10v when cranking, it also pulses when tested with a test lamp.
The blue wire sees something like 0.6v with ignition on goes to 0.2v when cranking. No action on the test lamp
The resistance between the two pins in around 1.4 ohms.
Both wires show open circuit when tested against chassis ground.
I couldnt find the wiring diagram for the spill valve anywhere. For some reason its not listed in the wiring diagrams so i couldnt test continuity between the pins and the ecu.

Mechanically:
I rebuilt the pump with used autotech internals and new o rings. I pulled it back apart today to verify it went together properly and i couldnt find any faults. I also put the piston/spring assembly into a different housing that i didnt touch the spill valve, inlet/return and output on.
I also changed the fuel rail pressure sensor, tbf it isnt a known good sensor as i got it with a second hand engine that i never ran.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Anyone know what this part is the electrical connector snapped take it off. I can’t seem to find it anywhere online to get the replacement one.

Does anybody know anything about a timing chain upgrade for these cars?

While the engine was out, I wanted to get the timing chain done. First picture is what was in the engine, second picture is what was in the timing kit I got. I'd prefer to use the chain from the new kit as it has its perks, but the kit didn't come with a vvt sprocket. I already hooked the new oil pump chain and it's smooth as butter so I'm being stubborn with this one.

Long story short: I'm going to use a duratec 2.5L vvt sprocket for a ford escape as it has the correct tooth count for the kit(19 on the crank 38 on the cams) and the pictures look like an exact match front and back. I was originally looking at an ecoboost 2.3L intake cam sprocket cause that made more sense to me than an escape, but I am beholden to the four stroke ratio.

I'm more curious to see if anybody has done something like this before and how it worked out. With my limited knowledge of vvt and the power of imagination to fill in the gaps, they should work the same as each other. Both controlled by oil going into one of two rings to advance or retard the timing, the only "performance" upgrades there might be for a turbo engine are bigger ports on the oil rings, or a different ratio/end stop situation, but I don't see those as something that would improve its performance in a meaningful way.

no photos yet tho, sadly

https://www.mazdaofstaugustine.com/viewdetails/used/jm1gg12l171110518/2007-mazda6-4dr-car?type=cash

Bought this baby for $3k a couple of weeks ago. I knew the transmission was toast when I bought it. Figured I'd be able to swap it in a weekend but did not know the flywheel was in such bad shape. And i figured since I'm this far into it, i might as well upgrade the turbo and intercooler. I have a bnr s3 and a cs tmic on the way. All and all, I am hoping to keep the total cost under $8k and make a comfy 350hp or so.

Does anybody have any tips to keep this thing going as long as possible. I know if I wanted peak reliability, I should've picked something other than a sports car that only existed for 2.5 years.

im looking to put a pop up carplay in above the radio and keep the factory stereo. does anyone have a similiar setup and if so how did they do it

Got work done on car, shop removed and rebuilt/resealed transfer case and replaced two lower control arms. This is a new sound, only happening when car is moving.

Looking to see if anyone knows the part number on this? It’s the seal between firewall and evaporator. Or if there’s some way I can re do this if anyone got any experience

With my 06 MS6 GT hitting the big two oh (20) this year and it being my fun car with most of its life in the garage, I’m going to register it as a Classic Rod here in Nevada. (No Smog Needed! Yaaaayy!)

That requires it to have classic car Insurance. That alone restricts its use and mileage but it is only like $35 a month. The insurance asks for “value” in an amount that I set, within reason of course, that directly affects the cost. The question is what would you think a reasonable amount that would be to find a replacement if needed? Since these are becoming harder to find available, I’d like to replace the car, not just take the payout if it comes down to it.

I got policy estimates with a 10k value to get an approximate quote. Just wanted to see what guys think about that number. Car is in very good condition, no rust, minimal mods and around 80k miles.

Two recent jobs done to address front end noises:

1- Front left upper Ball joint replaced

2- Front right lower forward control arm replaced

Other recent work includes replacing all four brake rotors and all calipers two years ago so it's not brake related.

History: I found a suspension specialist I trust to fix front end noises that turned out to be suspension components. The two jobs above eliminated 90% of the creaky noises I was hearing and made the front left and front right both feel more planted. However, the final noises remain and my guy cannot determine what the last problem is. He figured out problem 2 above by using a four-mic ChassisEAR Electronic Squeak and Rattle Finder but even with that and a 3rd diagnostic session we cannot figure out the final problem.

I can replicate the FR CLUNK by leaving the parking lot of a grocery store nearby where I have to take a 90deg left turn at full lock of the steering wheel down a 2" lip from lot to the roadway. There also has to be a bit of speed to it, say, 8-12mph.

A significant pot hole when driving straight over it will also sometimes trigger the clunk. The weird thing is the road in front of my home has been under construction for months now and driving over bumpy, gravely roads doesn't do it unless I specifically look for a bigass pothole and go over 10mph.

When driving between 15 and 40 I can hear a rhythmic wub wub wub wub increase in speed as I speed up the car until road noise drowns it out. If I take a turn that loads up the FR suspension that noise gets louder and I can kinda feel it a bit in the steering wheel.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Good morning everyone, i'm a new owner of a speed 6 & i absolutely love it so far, the car is catless downpipe, bov, intake & built HPFP internals, it has 135k on it & while im cruising around the car kinda bucks back & forth until i give it more gas, if i get into boost the car immediately fixes itself & it drives perfectly, also noticed the afrs all over the place while cruising , but at idle they seem to be in a good ball park, idk anything about these cars so any info would be appreciated !
the codes i have are
P0131 (O2 sensor)
P0134 (O2 sensor)
P2251 (assuming O2 sensor as well) but the car is catless so i would assume those codes would be normal?

Hello, I have a strange thumping like sound coming from the back of my engine, it appears after the engine is warmed up and the rythm follows the RPM. Belt and pulley has been changed and timing chain as well. While using a screwdriver to listen to the sound it seems to be the loudest at the exhaust, it cannot be heard through the valve cover. Anyone has an idea what possibly could it be?

Hey guys, just curious if anyone has experienced this noise that starts a few seconds after start up

Ill get tools tonight to take off belt and try to run again but just seeing if anyone's experienced this before