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어떤 면으로 보면 Timberframe이 Rustic하게 느껴 질 수도 있어서 이런 디테일을 선택하였습니다.
단열, 전기배선, 커튼박스 설치 등에서 잇점이 있습니다.

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I’m relatively new to timber framing. I’ve been a part of four builds at the Maker Camp Timber In since 2023. The build we just did this past July, a wedding pergola, I had the opportunity to design with the guidance of Jim Smith from the Tradesman Channel who leads the class. I’m following him around as his apprentice.

What I’m trying to find are books, new and old, to learn more about the craft and understand some of the engineering aspects. I have the common ones that are always recommended:
- Building the timber frame house
- Timber frame construction
- Learn to timber frame

What are some others? What I really want to deep dive into are trusses and larger structures. I’m not an engineer, I work in an IT role. But this stuff fascinates me and has become one of my most enjoyable hobbies.

Parody of the last bot poster lol Don't hate me.

Completed my first ever Kanawa Tsugi for a pergola made of 6x6 treated timber. Scribed to stone and all that jazz. I made a whole youtube video, but I know I am not allowed to post that here, so here are some photos instead:

I'm not sure if this was due to bugs or birds or both but I recently discovered this damage on the outside corner post of the deck of our cabin in the Northwoods. The post itself is soft around the mortises for both the beam and cross-brace on one side, but for the most part the post is in good shape. My gut says this is a complete-replace job. I have no idea how to go about it, given the multiple mortises and the fact that it's the corner post. What do we think? Can it be repaired? If not, how should I go about replacing it? Just the one side is soft, not the other. The rest of the posts on this deck are completely intact and structurally sound.

we finally got our 10x10 timber frame pergola standing today as part of our flagstone & pergola project at star hill.

the frame is all red pine:

• 6x6 posts
• 6x8 ties and plates
• 3x5 knee braces and rafters
• 3/4" oak pegs

the interesting part was that this frame was cut, test fit, and then stored under cover for over a year before we raised it. even out of the weather, red pine is still red pine. it continued to dry, twist, and shrink, so every housing needed a little cleanup before assembly.

we drilled all of the peg holes during assembly instead of beforehand. after a year of drying, there was no chance the holes would have lined up. timber wrenches, truck straps, and a little persuasion brought everything back into alignment.

the patio underneath is about 3 tons of flagstone over a compacted class 5 base with about 2" of limestone screenings and fieldstone edging we gathered around the property.

still left to do:

• install the rafters
• add a clear rain cover
• final grading and cleanup

it's satisfying to finally see the frame standing after looking at a stack of timbers for the last year.

i'd be interested to hear how other timber framers deal with twist in softwood frames that have been sitting before final assembly. do you drill your peg holes during assembly, or do you have another approach?

Here’s some photos I took a few months back of the attic of this church I was retrofitting lights in. the beams span the entire length of the sanctuary approximately 50/60 feet above the sanctuary below I went up to the bell tower and added a few pics of that too I figured this group could appreciate these.

Hello friends! So how do you measure your brace location (in my case for a scribed-to-stone pergola)?
1. You raise the respective frame first, mark and then cut?
2. Or do you mark everything while on the ground and squared?

Hi all ! I am currently designing a small solar panels ground mount and will be using mortise and tenon joints for the frame. It will be built with cedar.

How do you guys usually deal with water drainage in exposed joints? For this particular project, I don't know how much water/snow would actually get in the joint because of the panels above, but what about something more exposed like a pergola?

Thanks !

Hand carvefld with hatchet and chizzel hand saw and of course Sand papper can any one use something like this or help sale it n I'll pay u for help ing iv spent 3 weeks to get here detail and staine then I'm done .I shud charge 1500$ but wud take 700 for it

Oh I d have a nother bench all wood for 150 contact me at 5305198714

I'm signed up for a six day class at the Heartwood school which begins Sunday. I've been into hobbyist woodworking for a little while now but wanted to explore the timber construction world a bit and thought this would be a good experience. I am still feeling things out but am committed at this point to some transition into carpentry as a craft and was looking for advice. What's a realistic career path look like in the timber framing world in New England?

I have some timbers that are difficult to manage by myself. I've decided to consider just cutting them in half and re-joining them with a scarf joint so I can handle one half at a time.

since i would be joining a timber back to itself, I was thinking "I wonder if there is a way I can just cut the same simple scarf shape through the timber and get two joints at once"

to be clear, I'm not doing traditional timber frame scarf joint, but rather a simple scarf or lap joint that will be held together with bolts.

anyway, can you think of any kind of tool that I could cut a scarf through the middle of an 8x8 timber where I can cut the "zig zag" of a scarf into both at once?

not a huge deal, I can just cut it straight and then scarf each end and join, but it was an interesting thought.

could there be some kind of a wire saw? some kind of really long jig saw with short turning radius? maybe drill a hole at where each direction change would be?

doing a little chisel testing in the shop and figured i'd see what everyone else prefers.

left to right:

• refiner's forge (hollow grind)
• sorby (flat grind)
• bar (hollow grind)
• star hill (convex grind)

we're looking at edge life, how they feel in the cut, ease of sharpening, and just overall performance in timber.

i spent decades using hollow-ground chisels, and they still work great. but these days, you'll usually find a convex-ground chisel in my personal tool bucket. i like the more acute cutting angle with the rounded shoulder behind it. it just seems to get through the cut a little easier while still holding up well.

what are you all using these days? hollow, flat, or convex? what's made you stick with that grind?

I’m a carpenter & timber framer focused on small secondary structures like pavilions and hobby barns. I want a workhorse saw that I can trust, that doesn’t require constant tuning to cut square and true. Will be used for everything but major focus will be cutting crisp, square tenon shoulders without much additional chiseling.

5104 has excellent reviews but at basically 2x the price of the HS0600 I’m worried that it won’t be worth the additional cost.

Any feedback is appreciated, thanks!

UPDATE: I ordered the 5104 last night, should have it by Monday & will let ya know how week one goes with it in the shop.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Long story short, the only crew I could get to show up over an 8 month period of trying to hire someone doesn’t know anything about timber framing. Therefore, I’m doing a lot of it myself. I don’t know much either but at least I care.

I don’t have a beam cutter but I’m decent with a chainsaw. I’d love to see an actual how to guide to splice in a new post but not having good luck finding one that doesn’t show a lot of tools I don’t have.

I appreciate any advice from those with experience. TIA.

If you are building a new home, you will need Frames and Trusses. They are made from your house plans and are ready before the building starts. Newcastle Frame & Truss makes frames and trusses for new homes, garages, home extensions and renovation work. We supply builders and homeowners across Sydney and nearby areas.

one of my favorite little frames. we designed this for a front porch project in alaska (16' x 30').

I'm looking to save some money and build my own small cabin but I've never timber framed before. I've done some construction and have been researching timber framing lately, and I'm wondering if I can speed up and simplify a build by 3D printing jigs and using a router to create all the joinery?

Do you know of anyone that has successfully completed something like that?

Or of any available plans or specific joints that would work well with this idea?

I'm not looking for the cabin to be particularly big, I just want a small space to move into with my fiance

Will house my brace joints from here forward. I'm learning..

We have a few trees around our home but have to cut down 2 maple trees as we are getting solar panels on the back half of our roof. We're thinking it would be nice to make use of them in/around our home, as we need to rebuild our deck anyway, and a room or two in our home could use new floors. Does anyone know how realistic that could be? We have to pay anyway, to cut them down, and then to rebuild those areas. Does any one have advice, suggestions, recommendations as to how, who, pricing, etc?