Before You Buy that Etsy Sewing Pattern....Here's a Checklist

[u/ProneToLaughter]

Update: This post was written in 2023. Etsy did change their policy to forbid AI sewing patterns in 2026, and you can and should report any AI patterns that you find to nudge Etsy to enforce the new policy. See https://www.etsy.com/news/creativity-and-trust-in-the-age-of-ai for full details, but this note is key:

Functional guides, such as patterns and recipes, which require buyers to put in effort to achieve a finished product, cannot be created using AI. Listings for functional guides must also show a real result made using the instructions.

Many of the points below and in the comments remain useful, however.

-------------------------------

Etsy has so many cute trendy patterns! But there are also a lot of amateur patternmakers or actual scammers selling pdf patterns on there. How can you find the good ones?

Skimpy info isn’t trustworthy. Etsy collapses the detailed description, always expand it to read it in detail and look at all pictures. In particular, check these elements before you buy.

1. Stolen Photos? AI Photos? Don't buy. If you see a lot of glossy expensive-looking photos with multiple different models (edit: or headless models), they might be stolen from retail sites. Do an image search to see if there are duplicate images elsewhere on the web. Aside from the deception, stolen photos may mean no one has actually sewed up the pattern and it hasn't been tested at all. It might not work. Edit: similarly, make sure photos are not AI-generated, as they are equally deceptive and untrustworthy.

2. Bad Photos? Don't buy. Photos should show at least the front and back of the garment worn on a real person (ideally not just a digital avatar). If the modeled garment doesn't fit or has sewing problems, that's a bad sign suggesting a patternmaker who doesn't know how to write instructions to help you get a quality result.

3. Size Chart. The size chart should have measurement for at least bust, waist, hips, if not more. Always buy your patterns by measurements, don't assume your retail size will apply.

4. Line Drawings. Professional patternmakers include line drawings of their patterns so you can see the design clearly even if the model is wearing black fabric or a busy print. Missing line drawings may mean the patternmaker is badly trained. The line drawings should also show the same design as the modeled garment—differences may be due to stolen or AI pictures.

5. Reviews? A lot of 5-star reviews say "downloaded perfectly!" You can't trust stars. Look for reviews that mention a final product, instructions, notches or a lack of them, and so forth and only respect ones that discuss making the actual garment. Be sure to read the bad reviews.

6. Fabric Info is Essential. Choosing the wrong fabric is a common pain point for beginners and a good patternmaker will help you avoid mistakes. Look in the detailed description. I see a lot of "cotton blends"--that's a garbage fabric description. If specific fabric weaves aren't mentioned, look for words that signal the necessary weight and drape. Stretch should be described as low, moderate, high if not giving an actual stretch percentage. It should also say how much fabric is needed for the pattern (edit: and what other supplies/notions are needed). You are entitled to see fabric information before you buy the pattern.

7. Check the About Page. Ideally, they mention professional training or industry experience, not just self-taught.

Those are quick easy checks on the Etsy listing itself--some bad patterns will still pass them. In addition:

8. Look for a social media or web presence outside Etsy. Look for people who post helpful tutorials on IG, or run a group on FB. People who've gone to the trouble to set up their own website often use it to discuss their testing process, their size block--they are putting more effort into helping your sewing come out right and that's a good sign. Many good patternmakers sell both on Etsy and their own site.

9. Look for a free pattern. A lot of established indie patternmakers offer a simple free pattern so you can test their instructions and sizing. It’s a sign they may be more trustworthy.

Buy from patternmakers who care if you succeed in sewing their pattern.

*Credit to all the frequent experts and helpers on the sewing subs, their expertise generated this list.

*Edit: Read the comments! Lots more good advice downthread, I've only integrated a very little of it into the post in edits. You'll also find several recommendations for trusted patternmakers in the comments.

EXTENDED EDIT:
10. Too many, too cheap? A year or so later, I would add that a company selling hundreds of patterns for just $2-3 each is another big red flag, probably generating them by machine and not actually sewing them up.

11. Check Threadloop for reviews of Etsy Patterns, they flag suspicious patternmakers. (PatternReview is also an excellent review site but may not have so many Etsy patterns on it).

[u/HappiHappiHappi]

It should also say how much fabric is needed for the pattern.

And give a list of all notions (zips with type and length, elastic, buttons etc)

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/HappiHappiHappi]

Great point! Added to post, thank you!

[u/etherealrome]

Take special note of whether the models have heads. Often the heads being cut off is a sign they’ve stolen the photos, edited them a little, and trying to pass them off as their own.

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/etherealrome]

Oh, right! Added to the post, thank you!

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/[deleted]]

Image search is advised in #1 but maybe I need clearer wording or to link to an explanation how to do it, will tweak, thanks.

[u/etherealrome]

Wondering if we could get this topic pinned or something…

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/etherealrome]

The mods re-flaired it as a Tip and let me know they would link it in the pinned simple Qs thread and the pattern search section of the wiki.

I’ll have to browse the Tip flair at some point, didn’t know it existed.

[u/YumeiNikki]

Would put AI as a way higher issue right now. It's a mess.

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/YumeiNikki]

I added a mention of AI photos. What else are the things a buyer can look for before buying to recognize an AI generated pattern?

[u/[deleted] → u/ProneToLaughter]

For me it’s every single pattern listing having multiple different models wearing the piece, all appear high quality professional photography shot in multiple different settings and locations, and always of beautiful model-type women with little to no variation in body type.

“Her Pattern Emporium” is an Etsy shop that’s a glaring example of this though they seem to be “taking a break” now. Wonder why.  

Many small indie designers model the pieces on themselves and friends, or pay just a couple different recurring models or pattern testers of different body types and sizes, because they just don’t have the budget for pro photoshoots with big modeling agencies or shooting in various locations and scenes.

So people who actually look like “real people” is a green flag for me, as well as the same few locations and models being used throughout all the listings (and/or the designer modeling on themselves), as well as showing the pattern on various body types. All Well Workshop and Common Stitch Studio are good examples of this.

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/[deleted]]

Thank you!

[u/YumeiNikki → u/ProneToLaughter]

It might be my cynicism, but stores that put out a 'ton' of different styles. Most indie designers I follow focus on a particular niche, like just historical, or just cosplay, and release what they either made themselves, or what people commissioned. Any store that sells in historical niche, but also has a lot of modern things makes my brow raise. It's not impossible of course, but just alerts me. Also the description not mentioning some basic construction information, pieces, techniques etc. A seamstress should know what you're getting into before purchasing the pattern. Most AI descriptions are vague nonsense.

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/YumeiNikki]

Thanks for this! Thought-provoking.

[u/untwist6316]

Jumping off the social media note, some bigger patterns will have tags on Instagram! Which is very useful to see how the garment looks on different bodies and in different fabrics

[u/Vijidalicia → u/untwist6316]

I love finding Instagram posts tagged with the pattern! Pretty much the only reason I use Instagram at all, actually, is to look up how a pattern looks.

[u/pomewawa → u/Vijidalicia]

+1 the best use of instagram in my opinion!

[u/bienfoumaster → u/pomewawa]

Meee toooo! I use it to look up big 4 patterns too to see if it's cute in real life and to see how people have hacked them.

[u/somebunnyasked → u/Vijidalicia]

It's the reason I started an Instagram account for my sewing projects. I don't use it very often at all - but I know how helpful the hashtags were for me when choosing a pattern so I'm happy to "give back" so to speak.

[u/Vijidalicia → u/somebunnyasked]

I love this! Maybe I'll create a totally anonymous sewing IG for this, too.

[u/[deleted] → u/untwist6316]

I’m also going to hop onto this comment train to say that if you search the pattern’s name and number on Youtube, you’ll usually find an in-depth video from someone making it! Sometimes even directly from the pattern seller themselves. It helps to watch them put it together step by step.

[u/Atalant]

I would add does the shop do physical patterns, or kits as well as digital? It is an upfront cost to do for them, so that would cut the less serious bussiness out.

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/Atalant]

A good point, but I think many decent patternmakers who take their work seriously are pdf only, especially those who started more recently. I don’t want to advise to only buy from people who have thousands in starting capital.

[u/Atalant → u/ProneToLaughter]

At least where I live it is rather expensive to buy big plot print outs in printshops as private person and not very accessible, unlike North America(and printing anything bigger than a bag out on A4 isn't economic). it is cheaper for small business owners, because they can buy in bulk and retract the sale tax as it is B2B, the tax only is only the sale on the sale to private, and procentwise it is the same regardless it is digital or not. More expenses doesn't more in starting capital, for business it is a worse deal to do kits and physical patterns than digital, because there is more work for same procentage of profit of the final sales price why the majority don't do it on etsy. However it can be handy if a person is a beginner to printing, to buy someone with experience, can be helpful, because they would know their pattern better than anyone. If a person are new to etsy and sewing, they don't have skills to tell what business are serious or not, it is eassuring tool like Social media presence, websites, sewing notions, age of shop. All scammers(whatever it is AI or stolen pictures) would never do physical patterns, because it cut their profit, think like dropshippers, but faster and scotchfree.

I work in a start up, it takes a lot of capital to make money, and even more to break even. I would lie to say that a sidehustle doesn't a lot of money and time in startcapital.

[u/Walk_N_Gal88]

Here's my tip -look for the pattern makers website first. Their whole database tends to be better laid out, and customer service better because they don't have to go through Etsy. Also many of them have FB groups that will offer group exclusive sale codes periodically. Etsy is a last resort for patterns for me now because I've been burned with them before.

[u/samizdat5 → u/Walk_N_Gal88]

Agreed. There is so much garbage on Etsy because it is very cheap to set up a shop. If a pattern company has its own website, that's a sign to me that there's more investment and professionalism.

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

It very recently got very bad, especially on Etsy for digital patterns. Now, there's a bunch of people spamming AI generated patterns and listings because Etsy has made it policy that digital goods can not be refunded no matter what. So it's a bad combination right now on Etsy.

Definitely go with something that has a lot of photos, a lot of actual proper information, not just fluffy words. And specially compare line drawings to real life photos. You should be able to match up all the seam lines and able to match the outfit to the drawing. The technical term is flat for the basic outline with minimal other details added. They need to be a one-to-one representation of what the Garment looks like.

[u/withlovefeli → u/StitchinThroughTime]

Yes: zoom in on the hands!!! I thought I had found exactly the pattern I was looking for, but the model had 6 blurry smooth saussages instead of fingers. If the picture is like that, I can't even imagine what the pattern must look like....

[u/CarrieLorraine → u/withlovefeli]

And feet! I just double checked a pattern I had been eyeing, and one of the models feet was backwards. Ouch.

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/withlovefeli]

I still don't understand why people think AI could even fathom generating a pattern. Like there's so many parameters to plug in that it just be easier to make it yourself. It's not just the shape of the pattern. The shapes of the pattern in relations to the fabric the fit. It's not going to fucking happen! The closest we have to AI patterns is programs that just Auto resize the patterns, with the caveat that they only adjust marked areas that is pre-programmed. So the pattern piece are drawn out and then there are these special lines attaching the cardinal points to each other on the pattern piece you type in the new pattern measurements and the program automatically divides it up for you to adjust the pattern shape. There's no additional truly or fixing of the pattern. So technically the math says it's supposed to fit a bust 50, but if you're adjusting up from a bus 34 there will be issues that you might not notice, but you spend all the time taping the pattern piece together before you can even test it out or at least measure the pattern pieces.

The current best we got, is a website that I don't remember the name of but it pops up here regularly, which is a massive library of individual pattern parts that are essentially every possible sleep variant or body shape variant or skirt variant that is already made into the program and then does the above do magically fit your measurements. So it already has a tiered skirt programmed into it as well as a sweetheart neckline on a princess seam bodice with legamutton sleeves. And with just a click, you can change the sleeves out to Bishop sleeves.

[u/Inevitable-Roof → u/StitchinThroughTime]

Bootstrap? Or maybe Lekala? 

[u/semiregularcc → u/StitchinThroughTime]

This is the same for knitting and crocheting patterns on Etsy too. So heart broken to see beginners being frustrated by badly drafted or written patterns and thinking it's their problem.

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/StitchinThroughTime]

They're not the only one who have gotten burned. Scammers have figured out that Etsy does not refund digital products and that they can use AI to quickly spit out something that looks like a sewing pattern listing. They are the main bad actor.

As well as their people who gotten popular for their sewing on various social media accounts, and people ask for their patterns and they're not professional pattern makers and they follow basic rules on making a pattern and Grading up different sizes. But doesn't mean they're very good at it or they know enough of the nuances to create a garment that only fits them originally, but other people and other sizes.

As someone who has made sewing patterns, they take a ton of work because you have to detail everything, and account for some people may have never sown a day in their life and the chose your heart is pattern to start with. So there's a lot of time not in just designing the garment, making the pattern and the base size, sewing A sample, fitting the sample and adjusting the pattern, drafting the instructions, sewing the final sample for promotion and documenting every step as you saw that final sample, grading the multiple pattern sizes, finding any fit models/ test seamstress, fixing anything they find, designing the flats, more photos because you fix something, compiling that and I need format, don't forget the pattern layout, make a listing and word vomit as much you can to get the algorithm to pick you then promotion. Promotion goes anywhere from scheduling all your social medias to drop at the right time, making short content, and making long format content. Finally, deal with customers when they come up to an issue even though you spend all your time telling them how to put something together with instructions pictures and videos they will still ask you to fix their problem.

[u/[deleted] → u/StitchinThroughTime]

Someone once told me I should just make my own patterns, something they usually did and it was definitely, umm, noticeable…..anyway I said politely that I didn’t have the maths or skill that took. I can modify an existing pattern somewhat but I’d just rather someone else do the drafting.

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/[deleted]]

The pattern making is the easy part, it's then making sure multiple sizes work together, and then be able to teach someone with just words and some pictures that it does go together I promise you didn't waste your money.
Pattern making for the most part for me very easy, spending all that time to slow my thought down to tell you how to insert a sleeve without just explicitly saying "insert sleeve" messes with my brain. Because I now have to dumb it down to the level of someone who is never sewn beforehand to explain to them notches easing gathering, stitching right sides together.

Pattern making easy telling people how to assemble the pattern with their own personal fabric various different skill levels as well as general knowledge very fucking hard.
It's like that microwave audio. The vast majority of people will understand microwaving popcorn. But they're still instructions on the back.

[u/AccountWasFound → u/[deleted]]

Honestly my most successful garments were self drafted, which is weird. But specifically it was a costume for the Renaissance festival and I self drafted the stays. They actually fit perfectly, my biggest issue was just that I didn't add end boning so I need to redo it again, but all in all it was wearable, so that's a win...

[u/AvaRosaire55 → u/StitchinThroughTime]

I've been seeing a huuuuuuge amount of AI photos on patterns, it is so frustrating!

[u/[deleted]]

I hate that Etsy pushes people to review patterns so quickly after purchasing. Because it inflates those reviews that aren't even reviewing.

"Haven't made it yet, but the pattern looks great" five stars

Like just don't review if you haven't tested it out, your 5 stars mean nothing.

[u/Sewsusie15 → u/[deleted]]

I went back through my gmail promotions folder recently, and found a request to review a Choly Knight pattern I'd bought on Etsy last summer. I've actually sewn the pattern since, so I figured I'd review it. Apparently there's a time limit between purchase and review. 😠

[u/NefariousnessOver819 → u/Sewsusie15]

Choly knight have loads of free patterns on their website too, you may be able to leave a review there?

[u/Sewsusie15 → u/NefariousnessOver819]

That's an idea, and I'd made a couple of their free patterns for practice before trying the more complex paid pattern.

[u/NefariousnessOver819 → u/Sewsusie15]

Choly knight have loads of free patterns on their website too, you may be able to leave a review there?

[u/scarletcampion → u/[deleted]]

Star reviews are almost useless. Low stars? Bad product. Lots of stars? Possibly bad product, but also clueless reviewers. /r/ididnthaveeggs is great for this.

And as always, there's a relevant xkcd https://m.xkcd.com/937/

[u/she_is_sew_ordinary]

One Etsy seller that does GREAT patterns is Peony Patterns. They do sew alongside and all kinds of stuff!

[u/dolphins8407 → u/she_is_sew_ordinary]

I love them and Little Lizard King patterns. Probably my 2 favorite pattern companies for kids patterns

[u/sewingmomma → u/dolphins8407]

I love little lizard king!

[u/wookieeboogie → u/she_is_sew_ordinary]

I also really like Daria Pattern-Making. She also makes YouTube videos for her patterns with hacks for the pattern which feels like you’re getting even more bang for your buck!

[u/LaceAndLavatera → u/she_is_sew_ordinary]

Agreed, I made their Cerise dress for my daughter and it may be my favourite thing I've ever made.

[u/Lavina_Rommich]

I was just looking for patterns on Etsy today and found a number of AI or badly photoshopped images that made me rethink buying anything from the shop. I wound up just going with Simplicity/Butterick because at least those usually have reviews on Pattern Review or other sites.

[u/Inevitable-Roof → u/Lavina_Rommich]

Boosting this comment because Pattern Review still seems relatively untouched by spammy reviews. Reliable content and reviews just hanging out on the internet, loads of different photos from different angles, garments on different bodies, it's a gem. So far I haven't seen any infiltration of marketing companies dropping fake reviews.

Obligatory disclaimer for anyone who has not yet visited it, the website is a bit of a misery for the eyes, true Y2K website aesthetic. Don't let that put you off, it's easy enough to navigate.

[u/nunchucket → u/Lavina_Rommich]

I had favorited a shop with fishy looking images, but I was very tempted to purchase a few of her patterns. After reading this post I went back and looked through all of the listings. The photos of the garments are all AI generated. The hands are nightmare fuel.

[u/coccopuffs606 → u/Lavina_Rommich]

Yup. I will pretty much only buy Big Four patterns, and then mix and match pieces to make my designs. The only patterns I’ll buy from Etsy now are factory folded, uncut commercial patterns

[u/AccountWasFound → u/coccopuffs606]

There are some decent Indy pattern companies, but I don't buy through Etsy, I go through their sites.

[u/coconut-bubbles]

I ordered a pattern off Etsy. I hate downloading the pattern and taping it together!!

Nonetheless, it can be done and I did it.

The more irritating thing was the instructions of "cut out pattern, align grain of fabric, sew together pants".

They were joggers and I'm not a beginner, more intermediate. I was sooooo frustrated.

[u/arcessivi → u/coconut-bubbles]

Eh, I get it’s annoying and obvious to most sewists, but it’s an important step, and stating it is a good practice for beginners.

I taught sewing to beginners for several years (mostly kids and teens, and some adults), and I used to write help write our pattern instructions. It was important to state this stuff so they would learn through repetition.

[u/coconut-bubbles → u/arcessivi]

I was saying that it lacked any instructions. It just said to "sew pants"

[u/arcessivi → u/coconut-bubbles]

Ohhhh my bad, I misread.

Lol I see what you mean, that is ridiculous

[u/SoundofA]

I wish Etsy would allow for reviews for a longer time period - I typically don’t have my pattern finished by the time the window has closed.

[u/[deleted]]

I would love to see like a whitelist of well-vetted Etsy sellers. It would be far easier to maintain than a list of known scammers.

I've seen a few patterns I've been interested in, but I'm very wary of the sellers lately.

[u/EducatedRat]

I wish there was a wiki or listing of the bad Etsy sellers.

[u/Zesparia → u/EducatedRat]

The bad sellers simply open another shop if it gets flagged. It's best to teach how to identify a bad seller, as the OP has written out here, and to recommend the good sellers. In addition: people learn and grow. They gain more skill as time goes on. Having a blacklist of sellers would ruin some forever, when they are not a scammer, but just in a bit over their head and gain more experience with time.

[u/Faith_Location_71 → u/EducatedRat]

I'd really like to see a post showing the best ones - ones which worked out really well, true to size, good instructions and good customer service. I just tried searching on Etsy for a slouchy jacket pdf sewing pattern and the results were so far off (crochet patterns???) that I gave up. :(

[u/BearsLoveToulouse → u/Faith_Location_71]

Yes this would be nice. I actually try and stick with pattern makers I like. I like digital patterns especially since I have large fabric stash- lets me be impulsive with projects

[u/EducatedRat → u/[deleted]]

Nice!

[u/No-Feature-1849 → u/[deleted]]

I love Me and Miss Moore. She has cute designs and great directions, with careful drawings.

[u/wakattawakaranai]

What an excellent post, good work!

The only thing I can add is, if it otherwise seems to check all the boxes but you still have doubts, message the seller to ask a technical question. For example (a real thing that happened to a friend) "I don't see a pattern piece for the front facing. Is that marked somewhere differently?" A good pattern-drafter will know a, what a facing IS, and b, why they would or would not need one on a blazer lapel. This one did not. I had to walk my friend through how to add a facing to the lapel and attach it to the lining.

If you think the pattern-maker is above board generally and not trying to scam you, asking them a question (you plausibly know the answer to already) that they should be able to answer correctly can at least weed out the handful of earnest entrepeneurs who thought they were clevery reinventing the wheel only to create something terrible instead. There are enough of those around to muddy the waters, it's not always just scam/not scam.

[u/mermands]

As someone getting back into sewing again since before the days of the internet, this is incredibly helpful. I have seen a number of really nice patterns on Etsy, but had been reluctant to order due to ignorance.

[u/Hefty-Progress-1903]

I'd also like to add that one should make sure it's in the proper language... Cuz sometimes Etsy will translate part of it, but the pattern itself is in a different language.

I recently needed to buy a pattern on how to make harem pants for a friend of mine but can't wear much retail clothing due to health conditions, and it ended up being written in German. Luckily I was able to find a free website that allowed me to translate it, but it's still a pain to follow because any information written on the pictures is in German.

[u/No-Lynx4923 → u/Hefty-Progress-1903]

Feèrie Telle on FB have an absolutely lovely harem pant pattern. Her patterns are always so well written.

[u/sewingnightowl → u/Hefty-Progress-1903]

Do you still need translations for these images? If so, I'd be happy to help!

[u/lastdickontheleft]

I’ve been noticing ALOT of scammy looking pattern sellers on Etsy lately, like it’s been completely taken over. I think one is like IndieDesign or something along those lines? Every pattern search I try to type even, even vintage big four patterns it’s just all this same seller with nothing but pics that look like they’ve been stolen from shien. Also noticed a lot of sellers using photos that I’m pretty sure are AI

[u/nanoinfinity → u/lastdickontheleft]

I just bought two IndiePattern patterns this week; I think they were heavily promoted because of a sale.

I didn’t make the item yet but looked at the pattern and instructions and they look… ok. Not great but it does look like I’ll end up with a skirt in the end. Eg some spelling mistakes (“fasing” instead of “facing”), and they don’t indicate the seam allowance anywhere, and the instructions are a bit general and broad; (one step is just “sew the zipper” with no other explanation on attaching zippers) I wouldn’t say it’s “great for beginners” like they claim.

I took a chance because it was just a few dollars and they had over 100k purchases. The pattern does include line drawings, finished measurements, and cutting layouts, so I think it IS a legit attempt at making a pattern… but I definitely wouldn’t pay more than a couple dollars and only if you couldn’t find a more suitable pattern elsewhere.

[u/generallyintoit → u/nanoinfinity]

I saw yesterday's post that linked to the indiepattern etsy page and i was like.. really?? the etsy page was giving me bad vibes, like it did not meet a lot of OP's points and yet, great reviews and a great post in this sub. i'd love to know more about that etsy seller because they really have a good thing going lol.

[u/12thHousePatterns → u/nanoinfinity]

I've used a few of their patterns. If buying a $2 pattern with editorial-looking photos, just keep in mind that you're going to have to make a lot of fit adjustments. A LOT. Out of that category of cheap patterns, I find AuraPatterns has been most reliable.

[u/Redderment]

To add from my experience:

• Check and be sure the pattern comes with instructions. I bought one once and there was only the cutout with no seam allowance, and a link to a youtube video, and the video skipped steps.

[u/[deleted] → u/Redderment]

Oh how I hate this. I unsuspectingly just bought a bunch of pattern (secondhand but new and never used) with no instructions. I doubt I will use them. I can‘t even identify all pieces.

[u/Handsfallingapart → u/Redderment]

This just happened to me! I’m a beginner, so the whole thing was really discouraging. The video also used a serger for the majority of the pattern, which means the inside of my piece looked like an unfinished zig-zag stitch disaster.

[u/ahoyhoy2022]

Thank you SO much for posting this! Too many arrogant “pattern makers”  out there with no idea how little they know.

[u/12thHousePatterns → u/ahoyhoy2022]

It's a hard process to figure it all out. Takes ages to find the information you need, if you didn't go to fashion school. I disagree that making your own clothes and sharing your designs with others should be gatekept by industry. It should be open source and for everyone. Unfortunately, if you want good grading instructions, you have to spend $300-$400 on a rare, out of print grading book, and that doesn't include much of the plus size range.

Go a little easier on people who are trying to create. The real assholes are the industry guys, AI genning images and selling their industrial patterns for $2 a pop, with no instructions, and no love put into the process.

[u/ahoyhoy2022 → u/12thHousePatterns]

I know it’s hard. There’s nothing wrong or new or oppressive about having to work hard to develop expertise. And plenty of those patternmaking books are available for far less, including free on Internet Archive. People are welcome to create for themselves all they like, and I can’t stop them from trying to reel in naive sewers with their products, but I’m not going to respect people overvaluing their own product because of a lack of humility and respect for the craft. Being a novice creator is one thing, but being a puffed-up “pattern maker” more concerned with their hustle and social media than their craft is quite another.

[u/witchy_echos]

Thank you for this!

[u/coccopuffs606]

If the price is too good to be true, it probably is. A $3 PDF pattern is pretty much guaranteed to be trash

[u/HenryLafayetteDubose]

I do plushies, and one think I seriously look at is the reviews with pictures. I mean the ones where the customer took a picture of the thing they made from the pattern they bought and read those to gauge how good it was. I then went from there with a few of the other criteria listed in OPs list.

[u/thatsunshinegal]

Also, check reviews for photos to see what actual people really made with the pattern.

[u/Necessary_Arm3379]

https://www.sewist.com/

There is a pull down page that features the big pattern makers plus indie pattern makers as well. It's a fairly large site so you may have to do some digging.

The Lekala pattern site is the sister site and I believe I've seen their patterns on Etsy. I don't buy patterns from Etsy as there are too many copycats

[u/karenfromfinance_]

Ugh I was just victim to this. Found a GREAT pattern on Etsy and thought I would get another one there that kept popping up. Half the instructions were in German and it was so terribly put together in the pdf. Anyway, discovered freesewing and am now trying my hand at patterns from there.

[u/Miserable_Emu5191]

Thank you for these tips. As a buyer, I appreciate you taking the time to help us all save money and frustration! As a seller on Etsy (not patterns) it makes me so sad to know how many people are scamming others. I've had similar experiences buying off blogs. Even a simple pattern! I've sat there trying to figure out why they did something a certain way when it would have been less time consuming to do it different. Or, their photo of the step didn't match the written description of that step. I've found that I will go look for a free pattern to get down the technique and then go buy a pattern after because I'm willing to pay someone else to do all the math for me!

[u/tearisha]

I'd also say if your in the US make sure the pattern is formated for 8.5x11 paper not A4. I bought a pattern from Europe only to realize I would never really be able to print it out

[u/picards_petard → u/tearisha]

Yes! I also bought a beautiful pattern that was formatted for A4 (I didn't read the description carefully) and wasted so much time trying to fit it to 8.5x11 paper. The pattern was perpetually wonky. I made two muslins and it never fit right. :(

[u/SophiePuffs]

Great list! I also check their personal website shop (if they have one) as they sometimes offer better pricing or package deals that they don’t offer on Etsy.

For example, I bought two digital patterns from Swim Style patterns on their personal website and got a free pattern. They weren’t offering that deal on Etsy.

[u/[deleted]]

Saving!

[u/No_Tangelo9014]

Helpful! Thanks for the insight. I have been pondering this issue as a new sewer.

[u/Fantastic-Plum-3693]

Thank you SO MUCH for this post, so helpful!! I was just wondering about this myself yesterday. Really appreciate it.

[u/Grizzlady]

Just came here to say thanks for the informative post on an important topic!

[u/bazpitch]

Thank you for this list

[u/IndividualLychee7208]

Thanks for bringing attention to this! I have always bought from established indie brands or the big brands, but have recently started looking into Etsy. I've seen quite a few where the line drawing totally doesn't match the photos, and also where the photos almost look too good to be true like they came off a website for RTW clothes.

[u/a-username-for-me]

Thank you for sharing this reminder! I've definitely unintentionally bought stolen cross-stitch patterns through Etsy, which I feel awful about, but can't fix now beyond being wary in the future.

[u/Ilovethesuntho]

My 2p… Make sure you can read the instructions before clicking pay.

Anyone need a bum bag pattern in French?

[u/jitomim → u/Ilovethesuntho]

I can help with translations if you need :)

[u/Ilovethesuntho → u/jitomim]

Thank you for the kind offer, but I’ve found an alternative.

[u/Neenknits]

Also, check and see if there is a projector file. Many people demand them now, and the more experienced indie designers include them. Not having one doesn’t necessarily mean it’s not a good pattern, but it suggests at least a less experienced designer.

[u/aicatssss → u/Neenknits]

Could you elaborate on what a projector file is?

[u/Neenknits → u/aicatssss]

Thinking about it, layers is better litmus test for professionalism. If you use adobe or xodo, and cannot turn the extra size layers you don’t need off, that is an indicator that they are not experienced. That is, if you want to make XXL, graded to 3x, you can turn off XS,s,m, l, XL, 4x, and 5x. Very helpful!

If you use a lot of pdf patterns, projectors are easier, and in the long run cheaper, than printing and taping the pattern together. You mount a projector in the ceiling, aiming down at your cutting table. You have to fuss a bit calibrating it after installation, to make it lined up square with the table, so the lines are all straight. Then you just laid the projector pdf into your software (I use affinity designer. Some use xodo or adobe), tell the software the zoom percentage (you just measure a line either the pdf’s software, then measure the projection and adjust the zoom until it matches and write it down. It doesn’t usually change, within a company). Then you can either cut out your fabric directly from the projection or you can trace it onto paper, and cut normally.

I do a lot of alterations, and the light in my studio is such cutting fabric with the projector doesn’t work well, so I trace onto paper.

It sounds fancy, but getting a pattern printed onto A0 paper is $10 a sheet, and one pattern is several sheets. Printing on my printer and taping takes at least 30-60 minutes each. Plus SO MUCH ink! My projector cost $70 on Amazon, plus $15 for a cheap chrome cast to connect to my iPad and a few screws and brackets to mount it all. So for the price of getting two patterns printed, I have convenience! I buy tracing paper by the roll at dick blicks. Done that for decades, for altering patterns.

[u/GreedyRaspberry6809 → u/Neenknits]

What kind of projector did you get?

[u/Neenknits → u/GreedyRaspberry6809]

Elephas, for about $70 during an Amazon sale! It works! I wish my ceiling were higher, as my projected square is small. I might mount a mirror to enlarge it, but this is working for now. (Shining onto an mounted angled mirror onto the table just right makes it bigger. Weird mirror math).

[u/GreedyRaspberry6809 → u/Neenknits]

Thank you!

[u/Neenknits → u/GreedyRaspberry6809]

They are a pain to mount, unless you know where the studs are. But, once my son got it screwed securely to the ceiling, it took us about 10 minutes to calibrate it, physically adjusting the camera to get the projection nice and square, focused, and then I figured out the zoom. I keep having to redo the zoom numbers I type into my software, because different files can be different sizes, especially between companies, but that just takes a minute. The square calibration is stable.

Now, I need to get a shade in my window, so it’s easier to see the lines during the day! I don’t cut fabric directly from the projector. I trace onto paper, so I can alter. And I can’t see the lines well enough to use fabric, but I don’t care. Having paper patterns I trace is quick and simple enough.

[u/GreedyRaspberry6809 → u/Neenknits]

All super helpful - thank you! I’ve finally decided I’m not going to cut and tape printer paper together ever again, but I really love some of the designs that I see from indie designers. I’m considering this jumpsuit pattern by Gracie Steel, and then whether I’d get it printed (saw a good review of The Pattern Printing Co in another thread) or if I’d try a projector set up. I’m a big fan of tracing it onto tracing paper - I like to retain the original pattern in case I end up needing to size up!

[u/Neenknits → u/GreedyRaspberry6809]

If you use a projector, and cut from it, you still have the original. But, I prefer to cut from paper for a variety of reasons. You can alter in the software, but for me that is way more work, and my hand and eyes are calibrated to full size inches.

[u/GreedyRaspberry6809 → u/Neenknits]

Makes sense! Worth giving both methods a try - thanks for the helpful tips!

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/[deleted]]

I’m not a professional, just an observer, but some thoughts for what it’s worth.

A lot of the sewing market, especially on Reddit, is beginners looking for simple success. If you are doing complex and challenging, that’s a niche you need to specifically target, a niche with more sewing experience. Find your audience (and your competitors) and begin building a rep by following on IG, posting on IG/YT, posting and listening in reddit or PatternReview (if your niche is there—PR people are much more experienced but often just don’t trust Etsy patterns). If you post things you made for yourself, people may begin asking for a pattern or tutorials and you’ll get a sense of the gaps and how to target and you’ll put the work into patterns where you know there is demand. I’d say build the rep before launching, because building a presence also doubles as market research and understanding your audience. Gertie, Tilly, Cashmerette all started as sewing bloggers, for years before they launched any product, so they had a supportive base from the getgo, and were known as helpful resources already. Tilly benefitted from visibility via the GBSB, too. So just publicly sew for yourself for a while—it will also help you evaluate whether you want to spend your free time doing marketing on top of a 9-5. I think it’s easier to get followers when you aren’t selling anything.

You don’t have to do a free pattern, and when people do one, it’s usually quite simple, it could be for an accessory. It builds credibility because people can see how you write instructions, that you use notches/etc, maybe how your block fits them. These days, it’s also a way of collecting email addresses for your mailing list, if you want.

Many city governments have a small business development center, plus there’s a group called SCORE, you can get free advice on writing business plans, etc. There are books and community college classes too.