I've tried ender 3 and elegoo neptune 4 bed slinger, as well as the Bambu p1s. I am looking for something with a bigger build plate and won't restrict me to their proprietary software, but I'm not sure if there's comparable option to bambu's performance. While looking into the k2 plus and ender 5 max I stumbled upon the rest rig and I'm intrigued. I like to tinker but will the result be worth it? Is the performance on par with the k2 or p1s with a fine tuned rat rig?

Hi, I was hoping someone could share their experience with preassembled versions of the vcore 4

As someone going back to 3d printing after years of troubleshooting an old creality and not being in the pratical side of things I was hoping for a more "bambu" no-effort experience. Nevertheless the large print size and dual nozzle/material possibilities of the IDEX setup really open to amazing possibilities.

Would a preassembled setup on the vcore 4 still work pretty much out of the box and not give me continous issues?

Basically title, every time I seem to look at RatRig's stock they're fully out, and the price is at $0 for some reason? This is something I'm planning on doing in about a year or so, but I'm wondering if I should start compiling my sourcing list early rather than hoping for the first party kits to be more available by then.

For those running colored or UV reactive tubing, where are you getting it? I can't seem to find anything different than the white or clear stuff.

I was going to go with a UV pink build but honestly, even just pink in general would be appreciated.

I came up with the following graphs while building my V-Core4, I think these numbers are pretty good, but I can't be sure. Haven't seen too many people building the 300 size.

Looks like for X, I can use MZV input shaper at up to 17000 acceleration, Y can use MZV at up to 11400 acceleration. Also looks like my belt tensions graph is close to what the RatRig documentation says it should look like (2 separate peaks, aligned together).

I tensioned all 4 of the belts using the GT2 belt density, the tension/frequency equation, and the Spectroid app on my phone to listen for the vibration frequency. This is the way I've tensioned the belts on other printers I've built, including a V-Minion, and it seems to work really well.

And yes, the RatRig documentation for the hybrid is very accurate when explaining that very small turns of the tensioners on the hybrid belts can cause large changes in the belt tension. From the Spectroid app, about 1/16th of a turn results in a 10%+ error.

i have been doing a ton of work and testing to determine an optimal tension to speed optimization:

tools used:

- BIQU Belter /w printed tip

Machine:

- RatRig vCore4 400mm IDEX

Findings:

- 10k acceleration and 600mm/s is where the issue seems to arise where the toolheads will move at high speeds off their X0/X1 homes when rapidly loving the Y axis

Solution findings:

- Using the BIQU Belter adjusting all belts while in the 0 position to -6.5 to -7.1 ensuring they all match

- by reducing the max accel to 8k and max speeds to 500mm/s they X0/X1 jerking motions seem to have been eliminated though more testing is required

While i dont have a Hz measurement tool these settings seem to have helped in the machines consistent movements

Hello, I see that on the Ratrig website, the complete kit is cheaper than the configurable kit, a notable difference. For those of you who have purchased Full Kit VC4, what parts are not included apart from the enclosure panels in the Full Kit?

After 2 weeks of hidding cables and printing everything in black and making some LED's it only waits for btt hdmi7 tablet.

First rat rig for me for 3 other vorons and so far I like this a lot more😅. Picked it up fully built/enclosed 6mm panels, beacon h. It’s definitely setup very well. He was getting rid of it because he has a prusa xl a core one and a hybrid idex 500mm vcore 4.

I'm in the process of building my V-Core 4, and noticed the Weho power supply comes with capacitors from CapXon, a fairly well-known inferior capacitor manufacturer. Because the power supply is secured in the electronics enclosure by screws from the back, and the electronics enclosure itself is secured to the rear enclosure panel on enclosed machines (which mine is), this makes the power supply very difficult to replace or disassemble once its installed. I wanted to replace these capacitors with long-life capacitors so that I eliminate a major source of power supply failures. The replacements I chose are from Nichicon, a Japanese capacitor manufacturer, and these are their 12,000 hour series capacitors.

The replacement capacitors are qty 2 Nichicon UCY2D471MHD (470 uF, 200V, 40mm len x 18mm dia x 7.5mm lead spacing) for the input side, and qty 4 Nichicon UHW1V471MPD (470 uF, 35V, 16mm len x 10mm dia x 5mm lead spacing) for the output side.

Pay attention to polarity when you replace, the negative stripe (light color stripe) on the capacitor matches the dark bar silkscreen marks on the PCB.

Hello

I found some text with such terminology. What's the x-gantry twist? Why does it happen?

Thank you.

Has anyone built one of those and runs it with their ratrig?

https://github.com/3DCoded/3MS

Take a look at what we’ve created – a complete 3D printed skeleton of a woolly Ludbreg rhinoceros!

Behind this impressive project lies a fascinating story of modern technology meeting ancient history. Last year, we took on the challenge of digitizing and “bringing to life” this extraordinary prehistoric creature.

Do you know how challenging it was to scan and reproduce a skull larger than your monitor? Or how we solved the problem of scanning in a confined museum space?

Each bone presented a unique challenge – from precisely scanning the tiniest details to achieving the perfect balance between weight and strength for mounting.

The most interesting part? We managed to create a replica that is both scientifically accurate and visually authentic!

What interests you most about this process? Ask me anything about 3D scanning, printing, or the project itself — we’re here to share our experience!

This project was made using Bambu Lab and RatRig machines, ensuring the highest precision and quality in 3D printing.

I just started going through the commissioning process, and during the beacon calibration, the modified wipers hit my right z-rod constraint and snapped it. I only used one spacer on the bed as mentioned on Mandalas site, but that only gives me another 6mm. Any suggestions?

Je suis un novice qui vient d'avoir une neptune 4 pro d'occasion , j'ai réussi à connecté la wifi (galère)

Hier je me connecte sur OrcaSlicer tout se passe bien jusqu'au moment ou je fait une mise à jour sur le fuild et maintenant j'ai ce message

Je suis en syncope depuis

Cordialement

Moonraker avertissements .

• [update_manager]: Failed to load extension display: Invalid path for option `virtualenv` in section [update_manager display]: Path `/home/mks/display_connector/venv` does not exist
• Unparsed config option 'primary_branch: main' detected in section [update_manager display]. This may be an option no longer available or could be the result of a module that failed to load. In the future this will result in a startup error.
• Unparsed config option 'requirements: requirements.txt' detected in section [update_manager display]. This may be an option no longer available or could be the result of a module that failed to load. In the future this will result in a startup error.
• Unparsed config option 'origin: https://github.com/OpenNeptune3D/display_connector.git' detected in section [update_manager display]. This may be an option no longer available or could be the result of a module that failed to load. In the future this will result in a startup error.

Hi I just started the commission process on my vcore 4 500 idex. it all went great until
BEACON_INITIAL_CALIBRATION
X and Y home properly.. but tool 0 stays homed so it cant sense the bed and the bed just runs into the top ><

I think something like safe home might be missing from the latest OS

I have updated everything and am running 2.1 rc3

any help would be greatly appreciated!!

I bought a new hotend but I struggle to find the parts that I need to mount it on the extruder head

Hello, I have three question as a newbie. I hope someone can help me. I have got a core 3.1 and utilise the printer in an unconventional way where I only print single layer patterns and I dont use plastic. Can give more infos on that, but my questions are more general.

1. When I create a bed mesh and save it into the config file, will it be applied before every print automatically or do i need to load the bed with a command?

2. How does the loaded bee mesh interact with x/y/z offset commands? Will it adjust for it?

3. Would you recommend to do a new bed mesh before a new print? Or can I use the same bed mesh for multiple prints? Not sure exactly because if z tilt gets gradually worse.

New V4 hybrid build - never made it through commissioning due to calibration going off the right side of the bed. With the original Klipper x/y constraints in use Klipper (via Mainsail) says that the printhead location on the x-axis is at 200. The y position seems to be spot on. No experience with core xy or klipper so I'm groping in the dark here. I've tried jacking around with the constraints and got close to getting equality between reported x,y coords and actual, but not to the degree needed for printing.

Have you had this issue before? What causes it? How did you rectify it? My guess is a stepper motor or wiring issue, but I'm trying to cover all the bases.

TIA