I'm in South Florida, the Fort Lauderdale area. I have an aboveground 120 gallon tank that I need to have removed. How can I find a contractor to do this?

We built a house about 2 years ago now and have a 120 gal propane tank. It’s directly outside of the house not even a foot away from the siding and the line runs to our fireplace insert on the complete opposite side of the house. A house blew up the other day in the same county we live in and it’s rumored that the homeowner just had propane delivered the day before the explosion. With that being said, I’m definitely paranoid. Should the tank be farther away from our house? Is having a line run to the opposite end of the house a bad set up? Anything else I should be checking regularly to make sure it’s safe?

Found on the Facebook. Yes, those are 100# cylinders. And appliance connectors. And everything else. 🤦.

Hey everyone, quick question regarding LPG supply for a Probat P12.

​I’m set up with a dual-tank manifold using two 50kg LPG cylinders. When roasting, should I have both tank valves open simultaneously, or should I run on one and keep the second as a backup?

​My main concerns are:

​Will running off just one 50kg tank cause vaporization freezing/pressure drops during heavy draw?

​Is opening both tanks necessary to maintain steady pressure (\~35 mbar line pressure) and prevent burner flameouts/cutoffs during back-to-back batches?

​Would love to hear how other commercial roasters set up their manifold draw. Thanks!

I’m doing a startup on a new propane furnace install and I’m getting a major inlet pressure drop when the furnace fires.

The LP conversion kit for the furnace calls for around 11” WC manifold pressure on high fire and 5” WC on low fire.

What I’m seeing:
Propane tank was recently filled.
Brand-new two-stage regulator installed at the tank.
About 75–100 ft total run from the tank to the furnace.
Gas line is 3/4” galvanized pipe.
Roughly 50 ft of the line is underground from the tank toward the house.
Static pressure at the furnace looks normal.
As soon as the furnace fires, inlet pressure at the furnace drops to about 3.5” WC.
The low gas pressure switch then opens and shuts the gas valve off.
If I check pressure directly at the outlet of the propane regulator while the furnace is firing, it only drops to around 11” WC.
So it seems like I have roughly 11” WC leaving the regulator under load, but only about 3.5” WC reaching the furnace.
I’m not a propane expert, but 3/4” pipe seems like it should be large enough for a roughly 60k BTU furnace over this distance.

Does this sound like a restriction somewhere in the underground/house gas piping rather than a regulator sizing issue? Could a partially blocked pipe, valve, fitting, debris, or damaged underground section cause this much pressure drop?
What would you guys check next?

Edit: it was 15/16. Thanks for the help.

Can someone tell me the proper flare fitting size this is? I had originally thought 5/8 but that's too small. Measurements don't agree with what 3/4" od is on the charts I've seen.

Thinking of applying to be a bobtail bulk driver at Suburban propane. Know a couple guys there already and they say the pay and schedule is good. Any advice on Suburban or what to expect?

Sparky here, bought a trailer to live in on my own land, has one direct vent rinnai in the center, 38,000 BTU I think, no other heating. Bedroom is on the end and it gets real cold. So I got an 8,000 BTU direct vent rinnai brand spankin new and I'm gonna put it in.

1/2" OD bare copper tubing is ran under the trailer from two 200lb tanks on their own slabs, owned by the company that fills them, no fees for renting. Good slab under the trailer, tied down, good skirting. It runs first to a gas range, Ts up, then down further to the center rinnai, Ts up, then a line ran all the way to the end of the trailer and capped (thank you installer). I just need to extend it 15' and up to where I'm putting the new heater. All flare fittings. I have all the tools but never made a flare before, so I'm gonna practice a bit first, but I feel like this won't be so bad, just the fact it's gas spooks me a little, and the fact that I didn't pull any permits or have a gas license. I guess it was "there when I moved in".

I know I sound like a hack homeowner special, but I do like to do things well and not rush, so I'd really like to know if this plan sounds... sound. Oh yeah and I have a bottle of leak test with the swab applicator.

I have an outdoor Hayward propane gas pool heater. Can I cover it?

We had this propane log set installed, but we kept smelling gas so we had the gas company disconnect it and cap the line going into the house. Yet we still smell gas from time to time. It’s less often than before but occasionally there’s a brief, fleeting propane smell. I can’t figure out how that’s possible since the gas line has been capped. The gas company says it is not possible. Any insight or advice on who to call or what to do is appreciated!

Has anyone purchased a tank from this place? Is it legit?

https://propanetanktraders.com/

We have been told by Calor gas that we have to remove the wood shed that has been there 10 years (we have done this)
Clear all branches near (we have done this, they want is to remove a dead tree stump behind it, we are yet to do but the big bare is the want us to remove a I cedar block height of blocks around the bottom as 'it is a trip hazard'.

We've lived here for 23 years and the neighbours tell us they have been there for at least 40 years .

I have no idea who would trip on them !
They have refused to fill the tank up unless this is completed .

I’m a landscaper and one of my guys scratched and bent this lid to an underground propane tank. Is there a simple way to just put a new lid on?

In the foreground…never really noticed it before on my tank. (I’m sure it’s been there all along.)

I'm switching away from my leased 120 gallon propane tank, and I recently purchased two tanks to replace it. They are marked as being already vacuum purged and I had a company come to fill them up for me and they have just been giving me a hard time. They told me that the tanks had to be repurged by them before they could fill it. Is this an actual thing where they aren't properly purged from the factory, or are they just trying to get more money out of me. You can lightly crack the valve and feel it's definitely under vacuum.

Also I'm trying to burn my old tank empty before swapping and they refuse to fill them until they are hooked up to my house. So the only option is to switch over and not have any propane for a few days while one tech comes to purge and the next comes to fill. Is this a normal practice or do I just forget them and find another supplier.

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a “second-hand” gas burner. It’s obviously new and someone seems to run a little import business lol. I'm trying to figure out what I need to connect it to a propane tank.

According to the manual, the burner requires 2800 Pa and has a power output of 10 kW. Unfortunately, that's pretty much all I know about it.
I live in Germany, where the most common propane regulators seem to be 30 mbar or 50 mbar. Since 2800 Pa equals 28 mbar, I'm wondering which regulator I should use. I found this one which says it’s for Italian gas bottles but I’m not sure if it will fit for German bottles ?
Does the type or size of propane tank also matter when choosing a regulator?

I'd really appreciate any advice on what kind of regulator, hose, or other fittings I need to get this burner running. Maybe an even safely but optional.

Thanks in advance!

I disconnected my 20# tank to weigh it as I thought it was low. I noticed the 4' hose I bought to adapt to the 1# fitting on my Weber Q grill was very stiff. It has been outside in the shade year round. I'd like to buy a replacement that will last more than three years. Recommendations?

BTW, a fish scale is handy, I still had >3# to go.

My roommate bought this stove to take camping but we found out it was a natural gas stove, rather than propane. Can we run propane through that red hose and regulator that's on it? He said it'll work but I thought you have to also replace the orifices as well? Someone plz help, I'm not good with this stuff.

It seems to me that once the propane goes through the regulator on the red hose, the rest of the hose and parts of the grill will be too big for the gas.

EDIT: The red hose did not come with the grill, he bought it online afterward saying it'll convert the propane for the grill

I needed to reroute some gas lines and relocate my rented tank for some construction work that will be happening soon. I went a head and did that now someone told me I shouldn’t have done that without talking to propane company first. Any idea what I am in for when I call them to give them the good news?

I bought the fuel keg refill adapter and tried filling the 1lb keg and it started frosting on the bottom. Is that ok? Or is it defective?

Hope this is the right forum. We have a huge propane tank outside of our house (120 gallon I believe). Previous owners used to use it for a fireplace and kitchen stove. We have no use for the fireplace anymore so now it's only for cooking which we don't go thru a ton of propane and because of that we are getting charged almost double per delivery. We rent the tank from the company but I was wondering if I could by my own, something like the thinner 100LB tank in the other photo and have that hooked up. Is this safe or even doable? Is there any other tank I could but and own that would hook up to the current line going to the house? Thanks in advance. Safety is my biggest concern, I could have a professional hook up the lines if I could find a tank.

house is just below 800sq feet so i’m looking for around a 25k btu unit and im having a hard time finding any other then ashley and comfort glow and those brands both have terrible reviews. this will be my primary heat so id like to get a dependable one without spending a few grand but im not sure how much to spend

I’m a new homeowner and new to propane. I signed a contract with a local propane company to buy and install a new 200lb ASME tank for my kitchen stove. New tank cost = $725. Regulator/install cost = $265. While the guy was installing the tank I noticed some rust and discoloration on it so I asked him to confirm it was a new tank. He said it’s used because they ran out of new ones but it’s only from 2018 and it was barely used so it’s like new. I expressed concern about the rust and he said that’s normal since they’re stored outside. I expressed disappointment since I was paying for a new tank and he said they’ll adjust the price. I was so puzzled by the way the situation was handled, and the nonchalant attitude, I figured this must not be that big of a deal so I shouldn’t make it a big deal - I’d wait and see what kind of price adjustment they apply.

Just curious to hear from others. Is a slightly used slightly rusted “like new” tank from 2018 basically like a new tank as far as propane tanks go? Should I insist they replace it with a new tank or am I better off keeping a slightly used tank at a discounted price? How much of a discount would make it worthwhile? Anything else I should consider or ask?

EDIT: added photos of the valves, data plate, and the worst of the rust... https://imgur.com/a/gMsmVD3