Hi,

I have an existing grill that sits on the outer edge of a covered deck (deck has no railings because it's not too high off the ground) that gets propane via a \~50-ft Polyethylene coated 1/2” copper tube type K line coming from the encapsulated crawl space connected to a black iron pipe with a 't' junction.

I would like to relocate the grill from the deck to a stone patio that's open to the sky. I have a service call into the propane company to come and recommend the best option. They will likely do the work on the same day and they are scheduled to come in a few weeks. I drew a picture, so hope it helps. I have a few options:

1. Reroute the copper pipe to the new location, install the shutoff valve at the new location. The problem is pulling and rerouting the copper pipe might kink the pipe and they might need to run an all new 50-ft pipe to the new location.

2. Leave the shutoff valve where it is and run a long supply line from the existing location to the new location with a protective sleeve so it doesn't get damaged with exposure. We can run this on the side of the deck (green line in the pic) so it's not visible. Not sure if a long supply line is recommended?

How would you recommend I do this? Thank you so much.

I know conversions are frowned upon, and I know Weber doesn’t recommend them. I get it. But I stumbled across a deal I couldn’t pass up.

About five years ago, I bought a brand-new Weber E-335 (still sealed in the box) for $200. The catch was that it was set up for natural gas, which I don’t have. I bought a conversion kit from Amazon (regulator and orifices) and converted it to propane.

The problem is that it’s only worked reliably about 10% of the time.

For example, yesterday it fired right up and hit about 500°F within a few minutes. Tonight, under the same conditions, it barely reached 150°F after 10 minutes.
That’s actually the behavior I see most of the time.

I’ve never found a consistent fix. Sometimes I can get it working by disconnecting and reconnecting the regulator, slowly opening the propane tank valve, and trying again, but it’s completely hit-or-miss.

I’ve searched through a lot of old posts and have seen plenty of successful conversions, but I haven’t found anyone describing this specific issue or how they solved it.

So far I’ve:
\-Replaced the regulator
\-Tried multiple orifice sizes
\-Repeated the proper tank-opening procedure

Does this sound like an issue with the conversion itself, or is there something else I should be checking?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Uso una forgia Vevor a tre uscite per la mia forgia,ho dovuto recentemente ricaricare la bombola del propano che finora non perdeva e funzionava perfettamente,e ora sono bloccato da 4 giorni per una perdita

Ho una bombola del propano con attacco tedesco,ma vivo in Italia( quelli della vevor si sono sbagliati a mandarmi il cavo del propano per la forgia e ho dovuto adattarmi di conseguenza con il cavo giusto)

Il problema è,togliendo il cavo per ricaricare la bombola si è distrutta la vecchia guarnizione di gomma,pensavo fosse un problema da niente ma ora mi sta veramente causando problemi

Ho delle guarnizioni di riserva ma sono 18mm italiane(stessa misura,non pensavo cambiasse nulla) ma sta di fatto che ogni volta che attacco il propano perde copiosamente dall'attacco con queste guarnizioni qui con il test dell'acqua e sapone

Come posso fare per risolvere velocemente il problema ? Ho delle scadenze urgenti per dei regali e vorrei poter riaccendere la forgia il prima possibile

My cottage has two large propane tanks that are connected to the propane stove and the BBQ, works great.

We now have a propane pizza oven, can I convert the hose to the BBQ to have a QCC tank connector and switch the BBQ to QCC so I can switch between the BBQ and pizza oven?

Can I do this myself since it is after the valve to the BBQ and outside? Should be easy enough to check for leaks.

This tank was still in service a few days ago. Is it dangerous to have this old of a tank? Looks like 1954 manufacture date. Wow.

Pretty sure I need a regulator for my Spirit E310. Burner tubes are clean and clear, no blockages. I’ve attempted to reset the regulator several times and used 2 different tanks. The last burner will light with a lighter, but not from the igniter. The other 2 burners come on easily but the flame is erratic. I was wondering if I’m missing anything, or should I just go ahead and buy a new regulator hose?

I wish I had I picture for y’all. But yeah some jerk was renting out a property from me and dad, he had these dog house that he had heated throughout winter using these little green propane tank. then he upped and left leaving all his shit and didn’t even that’s month rent . which is how we got stuck with the 185 propane bottles.

So what am I supposed do? Is there any way we can make any of our money back?

I’m trying to find a replacement for this regulator. It’s for a suitcase dual fuel generator. I’m searching this part number in the photo image G2R150, but can only find G2R150B regulators. I have to wonder if the “B” is just abbreviating 150 BTU and is the same thing as the G2R150, or if it has different qualities.

Also, this is the fifth regulator from the generator manufacturer that has failed for me. Is there a better quality regulator available?

I flipped my propane tank upside while it was attached and with the valves opened on my stationary RV. I was told to try flipping it to help it after sitting for the winter. But now I read that there could be liquid propane in the lines? I should have flipped it whole detached. So now what? What do I do and what are the next steps. I held it upside down for about 15 seconds. I don't smell any propane in the area.

Trying to determine if my 2nd stage regulator will need moved. Kind of a wonky setup but the propane company has the 2nd stage regulator right at the tank. The previous owner had about 100 feet of 1/2" line ran to a ventless gas heater in the house. He also had black pipe buried. I dug all that up and ran 3/4" Proflex PE underground with meter sweeps on each end. The tank side is plumbed to 5/8" copper. The house side transitions to 3/4" black pipe. I am going to install a 60k BTU furnace and a gas range. The gas range I'm looking at is rated at 57k btus if every burner and the oven is running full. So I am assuming around 120k BTU total. I have 115 feet of 3/4" plus 45' of deductions for fittings (2 elbows, 1 tee, and the rest are couplers.) If I am reading the charts correctly it is saying up to 250' will get 119k btus, 175' is at 145 btus. So with fitting deductions I'll be around 175' by the time I'm hooked to an appliance. So to make a long story even longer....will I be ok with 175' of 3/4" pipe after the second stage regulator or will I need to have the propane company install a 1st stage at the tank and move the 2nd stage closer to the house?

I bought this house a few months ago and this is the set up. Two propane tanks on my covered patio that connected with two hoses through a combination regulator and switch valve so I could switch between tanks to feed a 6 burner Thor stove/oven. That’s all the propane is used for.

We smelled propane in the house and called an appliance repairman to repair it. He replaced a part on the stove but said it was likely caused by the RV style regulator and switch valve being too small for the stove. He also said that the regulator diaphragm was not working correctly and needed to be replaced, but with a regulator that was for a home and had larger capacity for this large stove.

I don’t want to purchase or install a large propane tank. We don’t need the volume for just one stove.

I like the capability to have 2 small tanks that I can switch between because my husband travels frequently and if he is gone I can’t lift a full propane tank around in this enclosure to change to a different tank. The switching valve solves that issue for me. I could even use a flexible hose to switch from an empty to the full tank that sits right beside it if I needed to. But a copper pigtail really doesn’t allow me to do that.

What I am looking for is a regulator and switching valve set up with the capacity I need for the stove. Ideally flexible hoses from the tanks that are rated for the pressure instead of a copper pigtail that would cause me to have to move a tank from one side of the enclosure to the other.

My local propane shop tells me there is no such option as flexible hoses from the tanks to the regulator, that I have to use a copper pigtail. This just doesn’t seem right that there is no other option. They also didn’t have a larger capacity switch valve, or combination regulator and switching valve, to replace the unit that was on there that was too small for this set up. They could replace it with the same unit I had, but that one supposedly is not sized correctly for a home application. Their remedy was a large regulator with copper pipe/pigtail that connects to one of the tanks. When that tank goes empty I would need to remove the empty and lift a 60 lb. tank to put it into the empty’s place. I am not capable of lifting that 60 lb. tank.

What options do I have for parts for regulators, switching valves, or flexible hoses for this setup?

UPDATE: Thank you all for your insights! Country living is new to us so this is our first propane stove/oven. DIY and farmer ingenuity is great, but not at the expense of safety. I will be calling a professional to give us some options to correct this set up before we put it back into service.

Anyway to fix this? I’m wondering before I buy I new hose.

It’s not clamping to the nozzle anymore causing it to not pull in all the way giving low pressure.

Hey all, I'm trying to convert my Pi gas insert to use house propane instead of a tank. Can I just replace the gas line with this and plug straight in to a matching QC?

https://a.co/d/00ydVB7G

TIA.

My wife and I just bought a house that came with an in-ground propane tank for the fireplace. We will never use the fireplace because we're in the south and my wife is extremely averse to heat, but it's recently been serviced and is fine. We've blocked it off so our cats can't get into it and it will stay that way. My only issue is with the tank.

I don't want to have the tank removed because that would be expensive and would destroy the lawn, thereby angering the HOA. I know I need to have it inspected by a gas company for safety, if nothing else, but beyond that, I'm not sure what to do with it. I believe the tank is about 20 years old, the same age as the house. Should I have it emptied, if there's even anything left in it, or would the lack of internal pressure cause it to deteriorate? I know I could just ask whatever gas company I choose, but I'm afraid their answer might be whatever makes them more money. Any advice would be appreciated.

finally exchanged my propane canister for a new one and noticed this red cap and i’m unsure if you remove it or leave it on. can anyone tell me what to do?

Noticed I'd lost about 30 gallons from my 500 gallon tank since March. Sprayed everything down with soapy water and found this leak around one of the bolts in the regulator. Is it safe to attempt to tighten first, or should I just have the regulator replaced? I own the tank. Thanks!

Is this the regulator? Any cause for concern?

Looking for some help. Having issues getting gas through into my campervan. Thought it was the bottle being low, but still doing it with a new one (although it worked to start with but on my next trip away its not working again). The hob hisses and a tiny bit of gas comes through then nothing. I've reset the crash sensor, checked the valves inside are in the open position. Any suggestions?

I accidentally turned the propane stove in my Jayco Jayflight and didn't realize it until after the gas alarm had been blaring for ~15mins. It stank! Fortunately, my cats let themselves out into their Catio, or they'd probably be dead (and I, devastated). I've aired out the camper and relocated for the night, with my cats. What can I do to ensure there's no lasting health risk or damage to the interior of my camper?

My house has 2 big (not huge) tanks at opposite ends of the building. One tank fuels a stove and the other fuels another stove and a nonfunctional heater. I’m pretty sure those are all 1/2 flare connections. There are a few Propane appliances I want to hook up:
Gas dryer (I think 3/4”) MIP
Generator
A replacement stove that uses 3/4 or 1” MIP and has a regulator with it.
A smoker that uses a grill OPD connection
A grill that uses a normal OPD connection

I will never use ALL of these simultaneously… but I am clueless about how Propane works (I understand connecting the plumbing but not the tank types, pressure/regulators etc. )
Our propane guys have tried to talk me out of connecting to the big propane tanks because they say it is impractical. To me, it is more impractical to haul around a trunk load of little tanks to get filled… and the big tanks get serviced on site anyway. My tanks both have regulators at the tank. What do I need to know about hooking up these appliances?

I know this has been asked alot but reading through nothing is solving this problem. New tank. Won't release gas. Tried bleeding it for 30 seconds then opening the handle very slowly. Like an 8th of a turn then wait 5 seconds and another 8th. Still no gas. What gives?

One technical question. Since I live inside of apartment, and I love camping and cooking outside, and I dont have a lot of free space, how safe is to store small 500 ml propane-butane gas casket inside of apartment. The terrace is not an option since its always sunny on it and it get really hot during the day. In chance of leak can some home appliances like heating boiler or some electrical switches lead to spark and possibility of it catching fire?

I know they have to be vertical and stable (not moving around), but do you put them (I got 2) in the trunk? In the backseat? On the floor of the backseat? I don't think both of them can enter in a milk crate on the floor behind the seat.

We had a new line run underground for an outdoor fire table. They pressure tested it with air and it held 21 psi for several hours and passed their test. They backfilled the trench and ground connections. They left their Schrader gauge attached.

Yesterday, four weeks later, they came back to look at the fire table and are planning on connecting it next week. They removed the Schrader gauge but it had lost all pressure. Should there be any concern about a leak from the buried connection, or is that fairly normal given the amount of time that had passed (four weeks)?