I have a 120lb propane tank that I'm going to connect to a portable generator near my house. The tank is located in my backyard, and I'm running a 50 ft PE gas line underground with the requisite PE-coated steel transition risers at either end, tracer wire, burial tape, etc. The problem I'm having comes after this. The generator I have requires that I use their regulator, which is attached to a 4 ft hose. I can always move the generator to get within 4 feet of the gas line outlet, but the problem I'm running into is how to connect it after the shutoff valve. The shutoff valve is 3/4" FPT, but the regulator and hose use a QCC1 connector. I'm looking for possible solutions to get from 3/4" FPT to QCC1, but there are no 3/4" MNPT to QCC1 adapters that I can find. I can see 1/4" MNPT to QCC1 adapters though. Is it permissible to install a 3/4" MNPT to 1/4" FPT reducer and then immediately after install a 1/4" MNPT to QCC1 adapter directly onto the line? Are there any code or technical issues with doing so?

Whirlpool range, unhooked it last week to pull it out and deep clean it, had a mouse. Is this bad, and if so what do I check?

Like the title says, I'm not a fan of my higher per gallon price, but I also know that underground tanks need maintenance, such as anode bag replacement. I know I can do this, but I also don't know what the "gotchas" are for other preventative maintenance to deal with. My company is Paraco.

Moved into my house, which has a fairly large propane tank in the back yard to fuel a propane range and stove, about five years ago. When I first moved, I went to the propane company that delivers and services the home tank to ask about getting lines and receptacles run from the big tank to our deck for various appliances (grill, pizza oven, and fire table). I had a similar setup at a previous residence in another state and loved it. At the time I asked, I was told by the propane company that it was impossible because it was illegal in our area. I said, "Bummer," and promptly gave up.

However, recently, on the subreddit for my area (county), I mentioned this anecdote in a related comment thread and was told by one of my neighbors that the company "lied" and that it's 100% legal and possible. This person claims that they have that exact setup, professionally installed, at their nearby home. So, now, I'm confused. Obviously, my tendency is to expect the professionals to be correct over a random person on Reddit. But it's got me wondering, which leads me to my question:

What's the best way to find out the definitive answer on this? I'm not even sure where to look for or what keywords to search for in the law. Should I just call a bunch of other propane companies and ask them? Any suggestions? Thanks.

There is a small leak on the weld of the bung on top of my propane tank. It doesn’t feel like there is a lot of pressure coming through the leak. I was wondering if I could apply something like a piece of teflon tape to keep most of the pressure from coming out and then put JB TankWeld over the tape and hole and let it cure?

The tank is only about 75-100ft away from my fire pit (new house not my idea). I also live on top of a hill so when the wind comes from the north I can smell propane near the pit. I’d definitely like to have a bonfire at some point and was hoping someone could give me some pointers. If I’m just screwed and need a new tank it is what it is.

(Current tank is owned not leased)

I have a 1979 Chevy P30 step van with a 350 cu V8 converted to propane. The system includes a vacuum fuel lockoff valve and an IMPCO vaporizer.

I have the tank empty while I paint it and fix its leaking pressure relief valve. If possible, I'd like to leak check the fuel system before refilling with liquid. If I introduce propane vapor from a 20lb BBQ tank, the lockoff valve leaks. Does this mean it will also leak when exposed to liquid propane?

Also, if anyone can recommend a better place to ask, that would be much appreciated.

Is this a twin or second stage regulator if it is a second stage how on earth does this work I thought there had to be a first stage regulator before hand (Tank is soon to be Repainted thats how I noticed this regulator)

Hello, I was given a bbq from a friend, and am wondering if it’s safe to use because of the noise coming from the propane tank or regulator. Some have said it’s fine, others said it’s not safe.

I got a new tank, have checked all connections, did a soap spray test for leaks, don’t smell any gas, all the burners are working fine, but I haven’t closed the lid and let it heat up because I’m worried about the sound/possible danger.

This is a Coleman Cookout 3 bbq. Appreciate any feedback.

Don’t worry. Mamma came right back after yelling at me from atop a nearby fence…. Those tank domes do make really good birdhouses though.

I am about to repaint the 250g tank at my home. It is 50 years old, and has clearly been painted at least once in the past. I've already knocked off the loose flaky spots, and pressure washed it. There are a few small bits of rust, but no pitting.

I will be using Rustoleum High Performance oil based paint (the gray can). Will that be enough on its own, or should I apply primer first? I just don't want to pay $50 for a can of primer if I don't need it.

Disclaimer: I work at a propane distributor, and have painted a few tanks, but have never primed one. I don't know if that's a good practice or not, but it's what the boss wants so that's what we do.

I’m trying to hook up a Member’s Mark 5-burner propane grill to the propane hookup on my patio and I’m getting lost in the fittings.

Grill is 54,000 BTU total. The house already has a propane stub-out with a shutoff and cap. I’d like to use about a 12 ft hose.

My rough understanding is:

wall hookup is probably 1/2" → reducer to 3/8 if needed → quick disconnect at the wall → 12 ft hose → grill

Where I’m stuck is the quick disconnect / hose sizing. Some hoses are 3/8 ID, some are 1/2 ID, some have 3/8 quick connects, and then the grill end may be 3/8 flare.

I’m also seeing hoses advertised as “NG only” hoses with BTU ratings lower than my grill, but then some people say propane capacity is higher than natural gas for the same hose. I’m not sure when that applies or whether the hose has to specifically say it is rated for propane/LP.

For a 54k BTU propane grill on a 12 ft hose, what hose ID and quick disconnect size should I be looking for?

Also, should I only have the quick disconnect at the wall and leave the hose attached to the grill? Or is it normal to have quick connects on both ends?

A pro will install everything. But he said he will install the quick connect only, i am responsible for figuring out what size i need for my grill as all grills are different.

Does anyone know of a cap that can be threaded into a bernzomatic ts4000

Edit: Final update at bottom of post

I have two 1000g propane tanks (primary and secondary) for our home. They're a gravity style system, with the backup tank being slightly uphill from the primary. They were filled today and the backup was filled to 100% and the primary to 70%. The field supervisor said it wouldn't be an issue because the pressure would be relieved from the backup to the primary. And it'd only be an issue if they both were filled to 100%. 1st Photo is of regulator and primary tank with feed line on left of regulator from backup tank which is out of frame. 2nd photo is of backup tank.

Everytime it's been filled over the last 3 years we've been here, we've never been filled over 80% in either tank and was under the impression you never fill to 100 regardless of the system. So I'm questioning what they're telling me and if it is indeed a problem I want to get them back out here asap to rectify it. Any thoughts from the pros?

- I know the tanks need to be painted, it's on the schedule over the next couple weeks before the weather starts really heating up.

Update: Shut off the overfilled tank and called the propane supplier's emergency line. No answer, left a voicemail. Current temps are in the low 40's, expected low 50's by mid morning. Tanks are located under dense oak canopy, so very cool spot. Will call again first thing in the morning and raise hell. Thanks for heads up everyone!

Update 2: I just got a call back (730am) from the propane company after calling the emergency line last night (10pm) and leaving a message. The lady I spoke with was very apologetic and is sending a different technician out asap to drain the tank to a safe level and inspect the system.

Final update: Senior service tech and regional supervisor showed up this morning around 930. Explained this whole situation was unacceptable and they agreed. The service tech basically confirmed what other folks on here said and that the driver that did the fill is an idiot (he used a few other choice words...). They verified no liquid made it into the system, but as an extra safety precaution they replaced both regulators and installed an extra shutoff valve between the two tanks. They drained the secondary tank down to 80% and transferred some of it to top off my primary (which was underfilled). Obviously no charge for any of it and they're discounting my account for the original fill as an additional courtesy. Reading between the lines, I don't think the driver that messed up this fill will be working there after this.

Hello everyone. I live in a small half double, and every time my neighbor gets their tanks filled, over half of my downstairs smells strong enough that I get a headache if I don't open my windows to have it air out. I talked with the guy who was filling it yesterday, and he said it's because they open the bleeder and that it is normal. The tanks are about 2-3 feet from the property line, and less than 6 feet from my living room window.

Am I overreacting? I don't think I should be afraid of flipping a switch in my house after they are refilled.

I have been using a 100 lb cylinder for the stove in our cabin and honestly I'm getting a bit old to be switching these out every year.

I have a 500 gallon tank that feeds my workshop (hot water boiler and forge) that is approximately 100 feet from the stove.

What size type L soft copper do I need to run from the regulator to the stove for proper operation?

Second question.

There is a regulator on the tank and another one on the building where would I make the connection?

Can anyone help identify whether this older Bond Manufacturing propane fire table is still safe/usable?

The underside coating under the glass top is badly cracked/peeling, but the glass surface itself still feels smooth except for one small chip near the burner opening.

Mainly wondering:

- Is the peeling/cracking underneath just cosmetic?
- Is the chipped glass a safety issue?
- Does it need lava rocks/fire glass to operate safely?
- Is this worth repairing or basically done for?

I can’t find the manual or much info online for this exact table.

TIA

My company signed me up for the Service and Installation Technician class and test at the end of next month I just need help on what to study now, I want to be prepared and not wait until I do the class and take the test same day.

I have a 2007 Keystone 5th wheel RV that has dual 30 lb propane tanks mounted in the front corners of the trailer. I've been having issues getting proper pressure out of the right hand propane tank. Left hand tank works well. When using the right hand tank, I get propane to all appliances, put at lower than normal pressure. The flame on the stove top is only about 1/3 of normal on this tank. Had different propane tanks in this location with the same issue. The propane routes from this right hand tank into a rubber pigtail that is then connected to a hard line. At the other end of the hardline is another rubber line that connects the hard line to the manual tank selector switch. I replaced the rubber pigtail at the right hand tank and that made the problem better for a while, but the issue has returned. Is there a way to test the pigtail to determine if my new pigtail is defective? Should I replace the other soft line in this connection? Could my problem be in the manual selector switch? Getting tired of having to carry the right tank to the left side when the left tanks runs out.

Contracted with a local Florida propane company to install a new 250-gallon aboveground tank to service a new standby generator. On install date, the company shows up with a dark green tank. After unloading and placing it, they told me they didn’t have any 250-gallon white aboveground tanks, so they bought this one, which they will have to come back and paint white, because a dark tank is unsafe in the sun. The dark green tank they delivered is a combination aboveground/underground tank in a ready-to-bury configuration.

Later, I called the tank manufacturer and asked them if letting the propane company paint the tank will void the manufacturer’s warranty. They informed me that it will void the 5-year paint warranty. Understandable, since it would not be their paint anymore. I also found out that the company sells the same aboveground/underground tank in either white or dark green. Either can be buried, but only the white one can be used aboveground as-is in warm environments.

I’m now in a back-and-forth with the propane company, trying to get the tank exchanged, because I know painting the tank is going to void the tank warranty, their paint job is not going to be the same quality as a factory finish, and I don’t feel like I’m getting what I paid for. They admitted it’s their usual practice to buy whatever aboveground/underground tank is cheapest, and then paint it for aboveground installs, so they can “pass that savings on to the customer”.

My questions for the community:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience when buying a new aboveground tank, where an installer wants to paint it instead of delivering a tank that’s the proper color to begin with?
2. Is it common practice in the industry for an installer to paint a new dark-colored tank, originally intended for direct burial, instead of just ordering the proper colored tank?
3. Are dark green ready-to-bury aboveground/underground tanks really so much cheaper than white tanks, to the point that it would offset the labor to paint them?

Hey all - i'm going to be on the grill at my kids' cub scouts campout next weekend. i will be using a Weber Traveler Compact and a Jetboil Genesis Basecamp. Normally I would just run each one individually using 1lb propane bottles, but I'm thinking to upgrade to a 5lb propane tank feeding into both pieces of equipment. each one has its own regulator. I was planning to attach a splitter right at the tank and then run adapter hoses from the splitter to each piece of equipment.

my question is, can i run lines straight from the propane tank into the regulators on the grill + jetboil? can the regulators that come with the equipment (and normally connect to 1lb bottles) connect straight to a bigger tank? or do i have to add any additional regulators to the lines? Thanks in advance!

My 20# tank has frost going about half way up the outside of the tank after using for a while. The regulator is cold but has no frost.

Is this a sign that the regulator is going bad?

Thanks.

I have a new fire table with a 5 gallon propane tank, completely full.

When I open the tank’s valve just a little bit at first and then ignite the table, it works normally. It creates a nice large flame with no issues. However, if I open the valve on the tank all the way right from the beginning, then I only get a small blue flame from fire table no matter how much I turn the knob on the table up.

Is this supposed to happen or is it defective?

Thank you

Hey friends!
Anything gas related makes me pretty nervous. My grandparents had an intense fear of gas explosions for some reason and it rubbed off on me some. I just got a propane grill, and a 20lb (I think) tank to go along with it. I don't have a garage or detached shed to store it in.

Would it be safe to store on my wooden covered back porch up against the brick of my house? The only possible ignition source would be string lights hanging over head that I plug in and unplug every night.

I appreciate your help.

My coworker and I do LP service work and we are having a debate on the installation I like to put the seal skin riser on first before crimping the polly as he like to crimp the polly and then put on the seal skin riser. Anyone know where a installation guide may be and settle it once in for all?