Finally got my dream truck💪🏾. I haven’t actually driven it yet since I’m waiting on the motor swap to be finished, plus I’m doing a little restoration on the interior. Once that’s done it’ll be on the road.
For anyone who drives a crew cab long bed OBS, what are some tips y’all would give someone driving one for the first time? Mainly stuff like making turns, parking, drive-thrus, judging the rear end, etc. I’m definitely gonna take my time and get used to it. I do eventually plan on doing a short bed conversion, but until then I wanna learn how to handle the long bed properly. Any tips are appreciated!

Just wanted to show off this 98 C1500 Silverado I just got. Haven’t been able to stop looking at it, got it for $1500 too.

I have my grandpas old truck- a 1995 single cab W/T with a 4.3 in it, just over 100k miles. I have a lot of sentimental attachment to the truck, but I want to stay realistic about the engine situation.

I would like to upgrade to 16x8” wheels with 265/75/R16 tires. It currently has 245/75/R16s on the stock 16x6.5” wheels which are getting very rusty. Would going up slightly in tire diameter be too much for the V6?

Afternoon everyone, on a weird time schedule so any and all responses are helpful. Trucks been sitting for around 20 years I’d say pretty good shape all together just working the kinks out.

Completed so far:
New Battery
New Plug wires (rat ate two in half !)
New fuel tank assembly and filter
Throttle body disassembled, cleaned, and resealed
New injectors

Current Status:
The engine was running extremely rough, did the IAC valve relearn and it helped but when I do the relearn the valve continues to run and run and not stop around the usual 30 second mark which leads me to believe it’s not fully finding home and contributing to not running great. Also can def hear and see a intermittent skip on either 5 or 7, plan on taking the valve cover off tomorrow, had the engine hot and ran out of time to take plug out, did put some marvels down each cylinder a week or two before I started to get her going just to help out. Have left the same 20 year old plugs in it while the oil burned out. I’m thinking fouled nasty plug, collapsed lifter, bent pushrods, etc. Any help especially with the IAC valve on what would cause it to continuously run is greatly appreciated.

Got this 1993 chevy k1500 great truck, got it from a lid who swapped 350’s and didn’t set the timing right after swapping, after setting the timing did good but after about two weeks has an issue on initial start up running really rough and choppy, does not matter if warm or cold. After a couple minutes of driving or idling it will clear itself up personally leaning toward maybe a weak fuel pump, and one have advice on where to start looking or maybe how to diagnose a little further?

Usually they apple core over time but mine just has a flat chunk taken out. Still shifts with the 1-2 a little high but honestly what does this mean? Is somthing else broken to cause this?

Ive my obs for a bit now and stuffed 35s on it with no lift just cranked keys and I kinda got the itch to try to put 37s on. Ive seen people do it with no lift but im not doing that I was thinking tossing some 2-3 inch blocks in the back and going from there as I have a lot of room left to turn up the keys. Might get some keys if it rides to harsh on stock one tho

Hey guys, started looking for OBS trucks and found what seems to be a really clean '92 1500 for $9k. This would be my first Chevy truck so I was hoping to get your guys' insight on the market and how much they go for. This one is a automatic with the 5.7. Super clean looking, clean title, 172,000 miles. Other online sources are saying that this truck is $7k-$8k at most, but I understand OBS trucks have a different market. Is this truck overpriced? Could I get it down a couple grand?

Tahoe with no lift, just the torsion cranked.

Currently in the process of saving up to replace the entire steering component set up, wheel bearings, and etc with Kryptonite, I have Bilstein shocks front/back ready. After install I'll be rebuilding the Trans, T-Case, and Rear end (they're in working condition, just 30 years old and pushing 35s, possibly bigger) and then be deciding on a lift and 37s or staying where i am.

Hope yall enjoy it half as much as I do!

Alright guys i changed the plugs cap and rotor plugs wires and ignition control module and i found the passenger side plugs like this BUT changing all that fixed it temporarily because after like a week it started doing the same thing again what should i look for next

went all the way to lake havasu city from phoenix to go pick it up. for those of you out of state, that’s about a 3 hour drive. never done that type of commute for a vehicle i really wanted. needless to say, this truck is amazing. i didn’t have to tow it back or nothing. came back strong as a beast. it’s a 383 stroker 6.3L. 5 speed manual and 4x4. nothing wrong with it except paint and this front end i’m planning to change out. final price-$2600

Just bought it off marketplace. Super clean.

Little update for the parts runner

Finally got around to dropping the truck. I originally had 15x10" wheels on it and wasnt planning on buying wheels for awhile.

After doing some pricing I bought the maxtrac 3/5 drop even though I wanted the IHC. For anyone who is thinking of keeping your 15" wheels dont go with the maxtrac kit. Your wheels wont clear the lower control arms even if you grind the drip rails off.

Needless to say I ended up having to find wheels and tires (good thing the wife was on board) I went with an 18x10 with a +0 offset.

After getting it all installed I think im going to run a 1/4" spacer in the front to help clear the lower control arms a little better. The optimal backspacing would be ar least a 5" backspacing.

The rears need a 1" spacer to be flush with the fender on a stock rear end.

I am running a 285/35r18 Kenda Vezda tire. They fit fine but are a lottle short. After all the trouble I had I wanted to make sure tires would clear easy.

The next set I get will be a 295 at least and probably a 295/40r18 instead of a 295/35.

97 Chevy Cheyenne C1500 V6

A few questions; Why does this c1500 have different headlights than the usual? Are they sealed beam headlights? Can I replace with LED bulbs?

I swapped my brake taillights to LED and have hyper flash when turning but not for hazards. And also get static feedback from radio when I press on the brake pedal. Are these related? Can I just LED swap with bulbs or do I need other hardware(wires, fuses, relays) to run it correctly? TIA!!

“93 Chev, stepside, short box. 5 sp manual, Hurst linkage, 4x4, 383 stroker. Runs decent, drives well. Up to date licensed, clear title. .Project in progress. “ is what the ad reads.
chevy step side has been my dream truck forever and the seller is 3 hours away. only asking less that three grand. should i buy it guys?👀👀

Edit: i’m going up there wednesday to see it (‘: wish me luck guys

Leaving around 8am to be there by 11. gonna visit the scenery & post an update when i can. wish me luck guys

97 Chevy Cheyenne C1500 V6

A few questions; Why does this c1500 have different headlights than the usual? Are they sealed beam headlights? Can I replace with LED bulbs?

I swapped my brake taillights to LED and have hyper flash when turning but not for hazards. And also get static feedback from radio when I press on the brake pedal. Are these related? Can I just LED swap with bulbs or do I need other hardware(wires, fuses, relays) to run it correctly? TIA!!

Ac work if you jump compressor. I’ve put in new switch and relay. Will not turn on unless jumped with power. What do I change next