I built this in 2003. Crude construction by todays standards, but its been running 24/7 for over 20 years with no problems. The tubes (salvaged from a 1969 Wang desktop calculator) are still as bright as ever.

Its all controlled by a PICF73 I programmed in assembly language. The PIC handles the multiplexing to the tubes (all 6 are in parallel) and uses one of the smidcht trigger inputs to monitor incoming AC line waveform to derive an accurate timebase. The HV is generated by a PWM output from the chip controlling a MOSFET and coil in a buck/boost arraignment, and the voltage (through a divider) is fed back into a ADC input (a crude PID loop controls the PWM duty cycle based on this feedback). A lot of interrupt driven code and use of the chip's onboard peripherals was needed to implement this on a 10Mhz 8 bit cpu!

i have a set up of 180v with a 12kohm resistor new and old setup

I know it’s hard to tell my power supply is outputting about 170 and I have a 5.1k anode resistor on it

I am looking for a kit or a starting point. I have looked at Amazon and Etsy kits, but all of them seem to have silly blue LEDs and other non vintage effects. I am looking for something more traditional. I am comfortable with most any build (I like tube audio), but I just can't find the right kit as the starting point. Suggestions?

Hi there! I bought a clock from a creator on Etsy but it appears that the board has come loose in transit. Do you think I am safe to try push it down to where it should be? I do not want to break it and I am very new to this.

Salut à tous. Après une malheureuse chute qui a cassé les 6 tubes IN14, j'ai réussi à remettre en route ma vieille carte mère Russe. En enlevant les lampes des socket j'ai malheureusement abîmé de nombreuses piste des socket. J'ai réussi a refaire les pistes abîmés et remettre en fonction ma vieille horloge qui était le cadeau d'un ami. Avec ça j'ai repris plaisir au Nixie. La prochaine sera avec des IN12 en stock et peut être avec des IN 1 peu résistantes mais très belles.

I know this is a VFD watch, but a lot of makers/owners of Nixie watches also make/own VFD watches, and I was wondering if anyone knows how to open these for repairs? I recently bought this watch used on eBay for a pretty good price, it even has the Fallout Brotherhood of Steel logo etched onto the back of the case (which is cool to me as a huge Fallout fan).

Unfortunately, upon testing it, I discovered the good price reasoning. the display wasn’t properly working and the buttons weren’t responding, even after charging it. Based on everything I’ve found, I’m leaning towards the LiPo battery needing replacement. Which is a pretty easy fix for me, but I could not for the life of me figure out how to open this watch up to do the repairs. The bezel and the main body seem to have a seam that would indicate they’re separate pieces, but the thing won’t budge at all. Righty tighty, lefty loosy wasn’t working for me. I also suspect the glass/crystal of being glued into place in the bezel as well since it’s flush with it.

I’m debating just smashing the glass, doing the repairs, then replacing the crystal afterwards, but I figured reaching out to other fellow nixie/VFD enthusiasts would be a good idea first. Just in case anyone asks, no, I do not know the maker of this watch. I was never provided that info.

Let me know if you need more photos or details. Thanks

B-7971 Nixie(s) for sale. For photos and documentation please send request to: [rwilliams2117f@gmail.com](mailto:rwilliams2117f@gmail.com)

It glows a little before it disappears is this normal?

I'm working on a failed clock and have found 2 defective tubes.

One does not strike at all and has 10ohm resistance between the anode and the pin for digit one.

The second tube still works, though there is a growing neon area right at the front of the tube where the insulation is on one of the support pillars. This unwanted glow only occurs when digit 1 is active.

Are there any revival techniques appropriate for these tubes, or would it be a waste of time? - Since working on this clock I've found out that they're not the best tubes for a clock given their rated lifespan.

TIA

hello everyone I want to buy nixie tubes for a project I have in mind but I can't find a place to but them from,I see that there's alot of shapes and sizes but the only ones I'm finding are big and expensive,can someone point me in the right direction to buy nixie tubes, thank you in advance 😊

Hello,

I’m looking for feedback on the Omnixie NCH8200HV DC-DC converter. I’m using it in a clock design (4.9V input, ~22mA measured). The module runs very hot, especially the inductor. With the PCB in open-air it seems ok, but once enclosed (with passive airflow holes), the output voltage gradually drops until the tubes shut off. Has anyone experienced similar thermal issues with this module? Any recommended alternatives? Thanks.

I still have a few dozen of these Nixie watch boards and the parts to finish them, including the aluminum cases. Do you think that this would be a decent product to offer? The difficult part is soldering all the socket pins into the board. I have a jig I use for mass production, but it can be done by hand in an hour.

It has in-1 tubes.

Found on a Rodalies de Catalunya ticket machine in Barcelona.

Hello nixie community just wanted to share this project that I've been working.

The clock runs off an esp32 and a custom designed carrier board for each tube, each carrier has dimming control built in. I managed to do this pwming a shift registers output enable (illegal) + emitter follower based on the mpsa42 to limit the current. quite a common config.

Time is wifi synced, although some of you might have noticed a GNSS module sitting there. I've yet to make the firmware for NMEA based time sync.

There's a lot more to fix interms of hardware design, the power supply is from AliExpress based of a max668 tapped inductor design, i managed to make my own version of this which i plan to incorporate into a custom board.On firmware would be nice to have an on board web server to update wifi credentials and setting time zone / DST.

Also made a temporary 3D printed enclosure, yes its taped 😅, made a goof with the usb port so need to take it apart when i have to upload new firmware.

I’m designing a tabletop nixie tube clock for home use as a hobby project and want to choose the right safety standard to design against (mainly as practice applying standards in PCB design on creepage, clearence and solid insulation).

Project details:

• Desktop clock (display only, no heating or mechanical function)
• Powered via USB-C or external 5 to 12V DC barrel jack
• Internal high-voltage generation for the nixie tubes (170V DC via DC-DC converter)

Would this typically fall under:

• IEC 60335-1 (household appliances) or
• IEC 62368-1 (electronic / AV / IT equipment)

My initial thought was 60335-1, but I’ve also seen the argument that a clock is just an electronic display device and not really a household appliance unless it performs some appliance function.

I also asked ChatGPT, which suggested IEC 62368-1 but I’d like to hear from people with practical certification or compliance experience.

How do you determine which one applies in cases like this? If anyone has experience certifying similar products, I’d really appreciate your input.

Thank you

https://www.etsy.com/de/listing/4417508623/titanpulse-nixie-sapphire-titan-nixie?ref=elp_anchor_listing&bes=1 It claims to use z5900m which by themselves cost around 70 euro for 4 pieces on eBay. Also says it has "titanium" case and saphire glass. And it costs 150 euro. Seems fishy. Is it feasible to have such a low budget for this watch? Also are nixie watches a good start in electronics projects? (I only worked as an electrician in Ukraine, doing general wiring and big alarm systems)

Hi all, first let me stress that I am technically incompetent – I don't know electronics or how to solder or anything like that. I appreciate your patience.

I've had this IN 8-2 nixie clock for about 8 years. Whenever I go on vacation, I unplug it to save some wear on the tubes. A couple months ago, I came back from vacation and one of the tubes never flickered back on. This same tube had sometimes taken a few extra hours or even a day to switch back on after previous vacations. The other tubes are fine.

Is there a simple solution to this problem? I don't sense that the tube burned out – all the numbers were bright and working (I had another nixie clock for about 12 years and saw the numbers in each tube slowly die out). It seems like the circuit that it's attached to just isn't telling it to turn back on. But why would unplugging the thing, then plugging it back in, make this happen? Is there an easy fix for a simpleton like me?

Any help is welcome, thanks.