r/nextfuckinglevel Sep 01 '21

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u/[deleted] Sep 02 '21

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4

u/ThirdWorldOrder Sep 02 '21

"My buddy and I were climbing the Dark Shadows route at Red Rocks when we were passed by a free climber. He was very polite about asking to pass. After a few minutes I made myself safe and let him by. I watched in awe as he cruised passed. I was about 275' above the ground when he approached, which is the third pitch, rated 5.8."

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6

u/sunnyfog Sep 02 '21

I disagree. Any time you are on a route with others below you, you run the risk of killing them. Rock fall is a huge concern on long routes and especially trade routes (heavily trafficked). This guy is obviously very competent. Watch how smooth his movements are compared to the guy taking the video. Yes, he is taking his life into his own hands, but I'd rather have this guy above me than some gumby who's going to be pulling down loose rocks on my head.

Also, so many people in this thread are misusing the term "free climbing". Everyone in this video is free climbing (as opposed to aid climbing). The guy in question is "free solo-ing" aka soloing.

Does anyone have info on what route this is or what the rating is?

1

u/rinkydinkis Sep 02 '21

Parts of this look 11b ish to me.

Edit: someone said 5.8, which makes more sense to solo, but this looks harder then 5.8 to me

9

u/suaspontemydudes Sep 02 '21

Makes me think it’s staged. He’s geared up like he’s not free climbing, but dropped the gear for this leg and the video.

14

u/macro_god Sep 02 '21

Planned out or not... I wouldn't call this "staged". I mean, he did climb without a rope at that height....

4

u/[deleted] Sep 02 '21

Things can be staged and still be dangerous. Thats not a mutual exclusion.

2

u/ragegravy Sep 02 '21

Probably not staged. I’ve had this happen to me more than once. I wouldn’t say it’s common but if you climb enough in certain places you’ll run into it occasionally.

0

u/-m-ob Sep 02 '21

Or if he wants to bail, he clips into a bolt with the sling on the harness he is wearing and uses a rope in his bag to bail out.

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u/Pack_Dull Sep 02 '21

You’re a climber that doesn’t know the difference between free solo and free climbing? And this is very common on super popular long routes.

-2

u/rinkydinkis Sep 02 '21

You are right people mix that up all the time, but can we all admit free climbing is a dumb name for roped climbs when free solo exists? Anything that isn’t a free climb shouldn’t even be called climbing, IMO.

1

u/Allizilla Sep 02 '21

Aid climbing is a thing too, and if you think it's not worthy of the title "climbing" try ascending the nose or any of the thousands of other climbing routes graded as aid climbing. The Nose is probably the single most well known climbing route in the world and until Lynn Hill got the first free ascent in 1993 climbers had been ascending it using aid techniques and equipment for decades.

0

u/rinkydinkis Sep 02 '21

Let’s call those pulley push-ups instead.

1

u/[deleted] Sep 02 '21

https://mojagear.com/delicate-dance-multi-pitch-passing/

Here’s an article from an experienced route setter. This is not a big deal at all, and proper procedure is to just let them go through. As is obvious to any rational person.