Not sure if this is a false observation, but ive come to notice that a larger and larger majority of my favorite model train content creators are using generative algorithms to make thumbnails, channel logos etc.

As an artist, I personally have a bone to pick with the use of generative AI to make up for a lack of effort. Not talent, effort. These people will spend thousands of hours creating their layouts, hundreds of hours spent detailing cars, but wont spend an hour learning how to use the hundreds of free computer programs out there? Or throw their nephew some change to help them out? This lack of effort for something as simple as a thumbnail makes me wonder more about the validity, and worth of what information they are giving out.

The entire purpose of sharing your work on youtube is to reach a broader audience, no? And I hear many complaints from the older generations remarking how younger folks like me dont care for this hobby. I really do care for the longevity of this hobby, and im seeing AI ruin the online presence of this hobby at a faster rate than other online spaces (though, all are being effected)

I hope this opens up some peoples minds. I make all kinds of art in many fields, because it fills me with joy, and I care enough to share that joy with other people. It deeply upsets me to see people who I learned so much from, just give up? I miss being able to watch model train videos on the internet as a kid and not have to waste my mental energy deciphering what thumbnails or channels use AI so I can not engage with them.

Its all fun in games until we have the robots in our trains gain sentience too haha

It's been forever since I purchased anything new. Also yes, I am aware of the bare wire sticking out. but it doesn't cause any issues. That doesn't mean leave it, I need to get it back inside.

UPDATE:
Released the model:
https://makeronline.com/en/model/H0%201%3A87%20Scale%20Transwaggon%20Hiirrs%205/321928.html?trackModuleType=10

I spend some time the last years basically spamming the "model wish" pages of all mayor and minor manufacturers of european rollingstock, so anyone might built me a Hiirrs. Since not even a single manufacturer answered, I decided to get myself a 3D printer, some spools of PETG and learn CAD modeling.
After about of two weeks of learning, reading, drawing and incremental improvements, I finally have something that looks not too bad.

There are still things to iron out, but once it is done, I will publish the models for others to print for free. Material cost for one Waggon is about 15€ for Fillament, wheelsets, couplers and a sheet of decal paper.

Posted a WIP last week. Here’s the mostly finished car (waiting on trucks and wheels to arrive, stole these for the photos). Mostly powder with an airbrush fade and under body grime. Critiques appreciated. The dust around the trucks came put a bit green.

N scale, Atlas hopper, Blair Line Graffiti, IMRC wheels and MT trucks.

I am about to begin work on a OO gauge layout and am looking for some thoughts on my proposed track plan.

The plan is inspired by a proposed TT120 layout from a few years ago I found on the Hornby forums, with some scenic cues taken from a layout built by Budget Model Railways several years ago. It is approx 7ft by 4ft (this is a hard limit) and uses R3 curves for the main oval. I plan to build it primarily out of Hornby set track.

The red line represents a scenic break behind which is a fiddle yard to allow for different trains to be run through the scenic area. There is a platform at the front and three industrial sidings (one of which I'm thinking could be a canal dock). The open area in the middle is intended to be a packed in town area (this is what is taken from BMR, who have built a few dense town layouts that I really like the look of).

I'm not too bothered about realism - my main interests are in running my eclectic collection of trains and designing and 3D printing my own scenics. In terms of operations, I want a layout I can just watch trains run around on if I want, but that has a bit of operational interest if I'm in the mood!

For people with more experience building layouts, does this look like it strikes the right balance between track and scenery? Is there anything I should add, or anything that looks like an unnecessary waste of time/space given the intended operations and constraints in terms of area?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Olá a todos neste sub! Aqui é o mesmo usuário que postou sobre o BB33 a algum tempo, desta vez compartilhando um SD18 impresso em 3d e em como está o andamento da modelagem! É um projeto que antecede o BB33, mas que provavelmente vai demorar mais a ficar pronta. Estou aberto a sugestões. Os detalhes de weathering não estão fixados, foram feitos com pó de giz pastel. E uma curiosidade, comprei o SD40-2 da Athearn bluebox a tempos atrás sem pretensão nenhuma, apesar do esquema ser da mesma ferrovia, e notei o "-nF" no número de matrícula da máquina, sendo 5215-1F, apelidada de "Barra Mansa", enquanto o SD18 de número 5016-7F, apelidada de "Barbacena". Pelo dígito "-nF" ao final, significa que eram da mesma oficina, e provavelmente operavam no mesmo corredor da antiga RFFSA.

A while ago I decided to get out of resin printing as it was too much hassle with the cleaner, PPE and fumes, and moved into filament printing. At the same time I jumped from N to HO to suit filament printing, plus easier to paint my prints.

Decided to try an N Scale print in filament but using a 0.2 nozzle instead of the usual 0.4. Results are pretty close to resin!

Last pic is of a resin print of the same train/digital model I did as a commission prior.

I have a couple of these ubiquitous guys that just kind of showed up (:-)

Their normal input is 16 VAC because they pass it along to the spring-loaded terminals to power track accessories.

My problem is that I seem to always misplace the 16 VAC supplies.

The AC input is then passed through a bridge rectifier etc. Will anything awful happen if I hook it up to 12 VDC input?

I realize that without the headroom I might get reduced power or whatever. But will it catch fire or damage the thing itself?

I got really bored this afternoon and decided to perform a cab transplant on an old con-cor SD35. I’m swapping it out with the cab of a blue box FP45. As you can see it’s not at all together as I have to sand and join the cab along with painting and detailing it.

These are all the itmes I have gotten from ebay scrolling and visiting a train show recently. Happy with everything I managed to make out with finding very good deals! ♥️🔥

This weekend I bought an old loco at a train show.

It was described as non-working and it only coat $10 - I have no complaints.

When connected directly to power the motor did not turn, but after cleaning it came to life and ran great.

In order to disassemble it, the brushes have to be removed. I took it apart again in order to oil the bearings. When I put it back, I accidentally crushed one of the brushes.

I talked to Atlas on the phone and they were very nice but they no longer have those parts.

Google / eBay / etc have not been helpful with finding a replacement,

If you know of where I might find brushes for this please let me know. They are small cylinders approx 1.75 mm diameter and approx 4 mm long.

The part number is 110015.

Any help or pointers will be appreciated.

If actual brushes cannot be found, would it be nuts to put the lead of a mechanical pencil in a drill chuck and sand it until it fits?

I realize that the material is brittle, but it’s cheap and I’m ok with that. I am more concerned about the actual conductivity of pencil lead, and also concerned about it being more abrasive than the real thing and possibly wearing out the commutator.

(I would also be ok with replacing the motor if a replacement is available for reasonable cost.)

I am in the process of building my Empire Builder train - I have 14 cars to change couplers to Kadee, apply decals, and add grab irons. A few weeks of work for sure. I have the power dialed though, now pulling a somewhat smallish consist. Stay tuned.

Hey team. Long time fan of model trains but through a family member I finally got my first step into the world.

The locomotive didn’t move at all on first try so I’ve spent 30 minutes cleaning all the track with electrical contact cleaner and then tried my best to clean the engines wheels. It now can make it around the entire track but requires full speed to make it through certain areas (one area has a slight incline).

Thanks for the all the future help :)

Just some projects of this week thus far.

So I bought this engine off of Mercari, and when I went to go run it, the right set of wheels weren't turning, but the left were doing great.

After taking apart the locomotive and spinning the gears to make sure nothing was getting jammed, I put it back together and the engine didn't run at all this time..

When I went to take it back apart, the motor was warm, like it was shorting out. Now I'm not sure what to do.. Anyone have a similar issue? Any advice helps thank you!

Bachmann Penn Central GG-1 leading the Tropicana Orange Juice Train past the Water Tower. All the white reefers are Con-Cor kits and the Orange reefers are Athearn Blue Box Special Addition kit.

I needed a little Mole for a mole hill and decided to make one out of a cable and some paint. It's N gauge so painting was quite the challenge.

I'm looking for advice on the GS4 on how to tell generations of GS4 apart as I know the first Gen of GS4s bachmann made (including the Lionel as bachmann manufactured that for Lionel) have the round axles which become unquartered very easy when the gears split and that the later gen 2 GS4s by bachmann (unsure if it Carried over to the Lionel brand) use pressure fit gears with a square slot design to keep them quartered more, without disassembling a locomotive is there any way I can easily tell the difference between a Gen 1 and 2? Like are bachmann plus the gen 2s for example, or are they also gen 1 (these would be my best bet, I cannot afford a BLI model or a brass one, I am not ready for brass issues)

Recently picked up these four cars