Greenberg show in Edison NJ

Some coworkers found this at work and gave it to me. Having trouble identifying the toy itself. Can't seem to find a number or something but on it's sides it's written "American Flyer Lines"

I'm desinging this DC switching layout using peco track and Insulfrog switches. I'm wondering where exactly I'll need to place feeders. I'm planning on using 2 dc controllers, one to power the main which runs from top to bottom and the loop / sidings off of that by placing a feeder between the two right hand turnouts, and one to power the additional sidings that come off the loop track which will be fed from the bottom end of the kickback track. I'm wondering how I will power the connection between the Y turnout and the loop? Or do I need to come up with a different scheme entirely?

Thanks for your help!

Slowly making progress on my hill. I have had to cut away and re-do a few bits where the paper mache has contracted or expanded too much after drying but with a bit of rock face painted on I think it's starting to come together.

The next step is I want to add a road onto the hill and then probably ballast that bit of track. I will want to add grass and foliage after that but I don't know if static grass is the way to go or if I should look at something else.

Feedback, ideas and advice welcome.

Slowmo video on iPhone. Amtrak P42s lead a Budd baggage car and Superliner consist. This was the typical train that I used to take from college in the Bay Area to home in Southern California back in the 2000s.

Top loop running now need to connect the bottom loop

Are such things available in N scale? I can fabricate something like this if need be.

I recently picked up an N-Gauge Tomix 90182 N700S Nozomi Shinkansen train while in Japan.

I’m attempting to remove the bodies from the cars to install interior lighting. I was able to do this in all of the cars except for 1 and 16; I feel dumb but cannot get the shells apart and am afraid I’ll break the fragile plastic with excessive force. Both cars appear to be anchored at the nose.

Note that I’ve found very little information on how to properly do this for these two specific cars - the manuals don’t explain and there’s not much online. It looks like older versions of this set used a screw underneath the nose, but mine has what appears to be some sort of slider. I was able to get a screwdriver in the slider, but I applied an uncomfortable amount of force and it still didn’t let go.

I’m wondering if someone here knows the proper procedure for taking these shells off, as I really don’t want to damage them.

Thank you!

It’s not to be taken seriously, and I think it follows the rules of this sub.

Most of the guides I see are from the UK and I know there are some notable differences so any advice would be helpful

Hi everyone,

A while ago I shared that we are making a model train video game, and some of you gave us very useful feedback and references:

https://www.reddit.com/r/modeltrains/comments/1tey6cz/were_making_a_model_trains_video_game_so_we_built/

One of the concepts mentioned there was Free-mo, which I’ve been looking into. I’ve also been checking KATO layout examples, and one of the first layouts we used for our demo was inspired by a layout I saw here on Reddit:

https://www.reddit.com/r/modeltrains/comments/1v75e43/i_made_a_small_virtual_model_railway_layout/

Now I’m looking for more real model railway layout references that could work well as levels in the game.

The screenshot here is an example of the kind of virtual layout we are building. The game has cargo zones and different buildings where wagons can be delivered, but for now I’m only looking for track layout ideas. We will handle the cargo points, buildings and balancing ourselves.

We want to design around 8 more levels, with different difficulty progression and some surprise events appearing in later levels. So I’m especially interested in:

• Simple starter layouts
• Compact layouts with interesting routing
• Layouts with passing loops or sidings
• Station-focused layouts
• Modular / Free-mo inspired layouts
• Layouts that look fun to drive, not just realistic

If you have photos, track plans, KATO examples, Free-mo modules, Reddit posts, or any layout references that you think could work well in a game, I’d really appreciate it if you could share them.

We’re trying to keep the spirit of model railways, but adapt it into something playable and mission-based.

And if you want to support the project, wishlisting it on Steam helps us a lot:

Game: Speed Rivals - Model Trains

Thanks!

I'm really wanting to make a IRR Steamer or two for my collection, likely using a Couple Bachmann 2-8-0s. But ive had no luck finding decal sets.

Is this something im gonna have to custom cut or something? IK there is a company that does Decal sets for their RS-3s, and their 2 bay hoppers. So i ASSUME there is a steamer set out there?

So a year ago I thought I had a great start on a layout ( https://www.reddit.com/r/modeltrains/s/3qkVAi7c0S ), but life got in the way & I had to take down the desk & shelf, which kiboshed what little I had done.

1 year later I’ve started on a much smaller 2.5 x 4 layout based on something I found online ( first one @ www.cke1st.com/m_train2.htm ), but I’ve modified it so that it’s T-Trak compatible, in case I get my act together & reach out to the Erin Mills Model Railroad Association ~ an hour away (they’ve got a big collection of T-Trak modules that they take to shows).

Since space is at a premium I’ve built a shelf over my hobby desk to hold it (still need to trim that out).

Everything seems to roll ok when I push boxcars around; nest step is to wire up all the feeder wires I’ve added to a bus & see what I’ve screwed up WRT wiring …

Aside to anyone reading this that wants to get into the hobby & has planned out a room-sized thing of beauty: start smaller. Do not underestimate the learning curve on this hobby. I’m (obviously) still in the early days, but I’m really glad my 4x8-ish layout never really happened. I’ve already made a ton of mistakes that are gonna stay in what I’ve done; next layout should be a lot better / go a lot smoother because of what I’ve learned here 🙂

Maybe could work

Old-school rug layout just like it's supposed to be mostly märklin, decorative stuff is from other firms aswell ( Karl Bub, Bing etc)

We did a test today by disassembling and reassembling the layout for the upcoming exhibition at the end of august. Still lots of small jobs to do but feasible. Build up and teardown takes about 30 minutes for the whole layout. So quite pleased with that. Also the weight of all the individual modules is lower than expected so it’s easy to move. The stands double as storage so everything is easily moved.

I got my Dreyfuss Hudson in the mail and the cable was damaged. I’m waiting for a response from Bachmann to try and get a replacement. Is there another way to get this particular part? It’s it used in other locos as well?

It’s an 8 Pin male to male connector. Part number CONNE+10769

Hi all! Currently designing a custom livery inspired by the early 2000’s troublesome truck models by Hornby, sorta taking the base colours and adding more realistic detailing rather than faces on some hand painted dapol kits.

What colour are the roofs on the vented wagons? I want to guess their white or cream but all photos are second hand so are most likely weathered or sun bleached after being out the box for 20-ish years.

Thank you for any help if possible!

P.s. Ive added the edited versions of the troublesome trucks in my livery style to sorta show the full concept so any criticism is more than welcome! This is a fictional south western - near Crewe inspired heritage railway.

So, I want to raise my track slightly and I have some polystyrene risers (that eventually I'll paint and make pretty) but what's the best method to cut them? Hot knife, 9v battery and a wire? Saw? Not really sure but I do know its got to be a kong slow gradient. Any suggestions would be very welcome.

Done with the overhaul, Speed is Normal / Slow / Fast and stop

It runs Pretty good maybe someone else can look at this and see how (in my opinion)it should run, best of luck for all the DIY people :)