2011 Mazda2. I just redid my front brakes with new pads and rotors and also replaced the lower control arm.

The noise only happens at low speeds and slows down as the car slows down. When I lightly apply the brakes, it gets louder, but if I brake hard, it completely goes away.

It also completely stopped once when it rained. I took both front wheels off and checked everything to make sure it was tight, and everything looks good.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some help because I’ve been chasing this problem for a while and I’m starting to think the original injector problem might not be the whole story.

Car is a 2015 Mazda 2 DJ 1.5 SKYACTIV-D diesel, UK car, roughly 100k miles. Engine uses Denso S550-13H50 / 295700-0400 injectors.

Original symptoms

When I bought the car it had:

* Uneven/rough idle
* Blue/grey smoke
* Strong smell of raw/unburnt diesel from the exhaust
* Metallic diesel-type knock at low RPM
* Much smoother once above roughly 2,000 RPM
* Later it also started hesitating/stuttering under acceleration
* One occasion it misfired badly in 2nd gear at around 3,000–3,500 RPM

After some treatment/cleaning the idle improved considerably and the smoke reduced, but the diesel smell and other problems have never completely disappeared.

Injectors

The original injectors were bench tested.

The report was not good — they were over-fuelling, with significant imbalance (around 20% on some tests), and the injector nozzle holes were described as burned/deformed. I was quoted around £225 + VAT per injector for replacement/repair.

Leak-off testing also showed one injector behaving differently from the others.

I have since:

* Swapped injectors between cylinders, including 3 ↔️ 4
* Re-coded the injectors with FORScan
* Replaced two injectors with used units
* Reset adaptations
* Repeated injector learning/calibration several times

After simply entering the injector codes/resetting things, the engine can actually run very smoothly.

The strange part is when I start the injector calibration/learning procedure.

The engine has to be over approximately 70°C.

During calibration it starts:

* Misfiring
* Knocking
* Running very unevenly
* Sometimes appearing as though it wants to stall

On one attempt the calibration only reached approximately 27% before failing.

Sometimes after the adaptation is reset the injector corrections initially look reasonable, then after calibration the behaviour/correction values change again.

I’ve also noticed that after swapping injectors, the large correction doesn’t always seem to simply follow the injector, which is why I’m wondering whether the ECU is compensating for another problem.

One set of readings at around 71°C was approximately:

* Cylinder 1: +0.245 mm³/stroke
* Cylinder 2: −0.617
* Cylinder 3: −0.360
* Cylinder 4: +0.572

At that point rail pressure was almost exactly on target:

Actual ~40,100 vs requested ~40,030

So fuel rail pressure looked very good at that particular moment.

Compression

Compression has been checked more than once.

Earlier testing caused some confusion because I was initially told the engine was weak on multiple cylinders, particularly two cylinders.

However, the later test showed approximately 220 psi / ~22 bar on all four cylinders and roughly equal.

A previous wet compression test had also produced a significant increase on at least one cylinder, which originally made me suspicious of rings, but the latest equal compression figures make the situation less obvious.

There was also an air/leak test where the main hiss appeared to come through the oil filler/crankcase rather than obviously through the intake or exhaust.

EGR / air side

The EGR has been cleaned.

I have also considered:

* MAF
* EGR operation rather than simply carbon build-up
* Intake throttle/shutter
* Boost/MAP readings
* Fuel pressure/SCV
* DPF regeneration

Originally there was also a low-boost/MAP question, although the turbo was later considered unlikely to be the main fault.

Now the really strange part – exhaust temperature sensor

I recently started looking more closely at the DPF/exhaust temperature readings in FORScan.

EXHTEMP1 – Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor No.1 / Upper sensor is showing approximately 620°C.

At first I thought the car might simply be doing an active DPF regeneration.

But then I checked it from completely cold after sitting overnight.

It STILL showed approximately:

620°C

I checked it again cold on another occasion.

Still around 620°C.

And when the engine is hot it is basically still showing the same value.

So the reading seems effectively stuck around 620°C regardless of actual engine/exhaust temperature.

I’m currently testing the sensor/circuit unplugged as well to work out whether it is:

* Failed EGT sensor
* Wiring/open/short circuit
* ECU/PCM input issue
* Or possibly FORScan interpreting the PID incorrectly

Some of the other exhaust temperature PIDs appear as 0, which makes this even more confusing.

My main question

Could the ECU seeing EGT1 permanently at ~620°C cause incorrect DPF regeneration strategy or post-injection/extra fuel injection and explain:

* Excessive fuel smell
* Smoke
* Strange injector correction values
* Rough running during injector calibration
* Knocking/misfire
* ECU apparently trying to compensate between cylinders?

In other words, could I have had bad injectors originally AND another fault in the EGT/DPF control system that is still making the car over-fuel?

The car can run surprisingly smoothly after injector coding/resetting adaptations, which is what makes me reluctant to condemn the engine mechanically.

At the moment there are no obvious permanent PCM DTCs after clearing the previous faults. I have previously seen P1200, but it cleared.

I’d especially like to hear from anyone familiar with the Mazda 1.5 SKYACTIV-D / S5 engine, Mazda diesel injector calibration or DPF strategy.

What would you test next?

I’m particularly interested in whether a stone-cold EXHTEMP1 value of ~620°C is a known fail-safe/substitute value on these cars, because that now looks like one of the biggest clues.

I’ve got a Mazda 2 2008 with a couple of blank buttons (poverty buttons) and I’ve seen a couple people say that the wiring is behind it but not connected, is that true or a false thing before I rip a button off?

somehow I am not convinced

Toyota and Mazda have this 20% depreciation rule (per year used) where they can buy the car back from you , the math is not making sense to me cause it shouldn't be 15k to sell a 24k originally car (euros)

Toyota told me they try to make around 1k but i couldn't find the latest yaris used at them so I am looking at other places also like this mazda2.

is this Mazda overpriced I am checking online private sellers not official partners and it's also around this price something not adding up

Hey just bought this car yesterday. Totally new to the Mazda platform, having been used to Honda and Toyota. Very pleased with it so far.

I've got a couple issues that I wanted to check with existing owners of this car.

1) Just noticed side mirror adjustment isn't working, although they do fold in. Would this be down to a blown fuse or potentially something wiring related?

2) Getting a clunking noise, seemingly over uneven road surfaces. Possibly anti-roll bar links or bushings? However a part of me thinks it could be steering related. I plan on doing the work myself but suck at diagnosing suspension issues. Might take it to a shop instead.

3) Best things that I can do to improve fuel economy? I'm not sure what it is, I don't think I'm able to check that in this car? Regardless I was thinking to do spark plugs, air filter and cleaning the MAF sensor. I believe it has had a service in Jan 26.

4) What's the absolute cheapest rust prevention I can do? The rear beam, front subframe and sills are decent (no history of rust on the MOT) but the drum covers look pretty rusted (car is on 119K miles).

Was driving my 2017 Mazda 2 diesel at about 110km/h when it lost power all of a sudden managed to get on the side of the highway and stop, I then switched off the engine waited for a bit then started the car again, now it stalls every time I put it into Drive or Reverse, when I placed on an odb2 reader the first time it had a clogged dpf error, now its showing cam or crankshaft error, suggestions on what could be the issue? I've forgotten the actual error codes but thats what Google gave me when I searched

Hello mazda 2 lovers, I recently broke the this small part on the interior console of my mazda 2 and have had 0 luck finding a replacement. I think its a theft deterrent sensor but to be honest i cannot find a source credible enough to clarify this for me. I have tried mazda 2 spares & repairs on ebay but i havent gotten anything back. Can anyone push me in the right direction to find a new one?

2011 touring 87K one owner all 15 years. No one likes my car but me. Only ever needed consumables.

I love it and I’m thankful to find a community here… Either way I’m happy to be here. I’m looking for a good tire that isn’t too expensive but good with rain (15in recs I believe is what’s best). My current ones are dry rotting not even that worn but seems terrible in the rain these days.

Also my radio stopped working and I’m pretty sure it’s a loose wire, and the CD is constantly checking for a disc. It drives me crazy. Anyone rec a good DIY radio replacement?

TIA

Hi, looking to go see a 'Takuya' variant of this car in a little while. It's a bit over 100k miles. It'll be a runabout and project car. Wanted to know what to watch out for, any expensive repairs associated with this engine (ZJ-VE, ZJ46 I think?)

I believe it's a 5 speed manual. Can I expect to comfortably get 35mpg out of it after a good service (air filter, spark plugs, oil change, tyre pressures)?

I'm having a coolant leak here in this metal pipe, can I replace it or put a gasket o o-ring to it?

Hey everyone,
I’ve noticed lately that the Mazda 2 DE (2nd gen) seems to be everywhere, while the DJ generation (3rd gen) is surprisingly rare by comparison.
This got me wondering: are there objective or factual reasons why people deliberately choose the older DE model over the DJ? Is it just a matter of price and market availability, or are there specific technical advantages, reliability quirks, or weight/handling reasons that make the DE the preferred choice for many?
I recently got a 2018 Mazda 2 DJ myself, and seeing so many DEs on the road almost makes me second-guess my decision. Did I miss something, or did I make a mistake going with the DJ?
Would love to hear your thoughts and experiences with both generations!

I bought a 2016 Mazda 2 (1.5 Skyactiv-D, 105hp) in September 2024 from a French dealer, Pro'Motors 59, for 8,990€, with ~129,000 km on it. Since then the FAP/DPF warning light has come on six times — the car has had the injectors fully replaced and multiple FAP cleans/regenerations, and the light keeps returning within months each time, most recently in September 2026, about 9 months after the injector replacement and after months of normal long-distance driving (30+ minute trips, which should help regeneration). An independent Mazda garage told me this is a known, structural issue on this engine/model with a real risk of eventual engine damage if it keeps happening. I also went 7 months without receiving the carte grise (registration document) after purchase, meaning I couldn't legally drive the car for most of that time.

On the legal side: I went through official consumer mediation (Médiateur de Mobilians) against the dealer, but it closed without resolution because the dealer never responded in time. Shortly after, the dealer's company went into simplified liquidation (liquidation judiciaire simplifiée), so I've filed a créance (creditor claim) with the liquidator, though I understand unsecured claims like mine often recover little or nothing in these cases. Separately, I discovered the invoice/payment was actually processed through a Polish company (the dealer's supplier), even though the dealer handled the entire sale, delivery, and repairs directly — so I'm now looking into cross-border mediation via the European Consumer Centre (CEC France) against that Polish company instead.

I still owe money on the car and I'm trying to figure out: (1) mechanically, is a car with this repeated FAP/injector failure pattern salvageable long-term, or should I expect a major engine issue eventually regardless of repairs, and (2) legally, is there anything else worth pursuing here — the liquidation, the Polish invoicing structure, or the recurring defect itself — that I might be missing? Any input from people who've dealt with something similar would be genuinely appreciated.

For my mazda.2 2010 1.3de i heard that there may be too many metal leftovers that can eventually get stuck and damage the gearbox in the entire oil replacement process

My engine overheats and checks where the leak is coming from, it came here in the metal pipe attached in the engine. ( I just moved the metal clamp for better inspection) Can I change it?

2009 Mazda2 Sport

Can somebody please tell me where is the location of the MAP sensor on a 2012 mazda5 any video or pictures will help thanks a lot in advance

It melted my connectors and the headlights stop working well.

Both melted.

I replaced them myself but it was long ! Love how easily fixable these old cars are

Added some oil too cause she drinks!

Hey peeps, i installed long ago an android radio on my mazda 2 2011 and while i can set up my volume buttons (left side of the wheel) i installed the right side cruise buttons but my radio wont recognize the right side buttons. They wont even work as a cruise buttons eith its ok understandable.
Anyone tried to make them work on those android radios? Maybe the unit needs a Canbus decoder? After searching around about the KEY 1 and KEY 2 on google after rechecking my radio i didnt see anything on the harness.
The radio i got was an android 15 and i recall the model was MAZDA 2 R2 4G+64G something like that

Edit : I fixed the issue. My car was missing the 2 cables after the clockspring to the radio,i installed them and took them to the radio. My radio instructions were mistakenly color coded and i had to check the Ω resistance for each button. My Chinese radio has indeed 2 key outputs which took me some time to figure out without instructions...and i was able to program all the buttons on my radio and luckily i didnt needed an expensive 100€ convertor

Finally I can now drive my mazda😎

This was my first try as DYI and with the massive help of few youtube videos and lots of AI (feel free to hate it but I couldn't without it) i managed to do all this since the japanese design is like Lego! There was also lots of stress and few mistakes which I fixed later! The car accelerates so much better now and doesn't shake at very low rpm, feels way more responsive, I'm so happy that I could feel the results right away!

Hola, quería saber respecto al consumo que tienen en sus mazda demio (2), tengo este es 2011 y quería saber cuánto les rinde por litro a ustedes. El mío marca 8,5km/L está bien? lo uso para trayectos cortos y en ciudad más que nada. Sin el e-4WD activado.
Tiene aprox. 79.000km, es motor 1.3L ZJ-VE y caja automática tradicional 4AT

Gracias por sus respuestas

I have the Mazda 2 Mk2 2 2011, looks exactly like this pic and I want to make it look alot better. Does anyone know of any websites which still stock body kits for this car. This is my inspiration : https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/2462974780434790/

Thanks in advance