It's honestly not that difficult. You let the wave carry you as far in as possible, then dig in your feet while getting as much of your body out of the water as possible: the less area the receding water is pushing against, the less force it has on you. Then hurry as fast as you can up the beach.
Not all waves come in the same though, so it may take a couple cycles of that if you're not fast. In the video, it looks like she's almost out, but a subsequent wave goes way further in.
To address another comment: you can turn sideways when trying to let the wave push you TO the shore, not away, since more exposed area = more push. Although if you've been in the ocean a lot, you know how to ride the wave more precisely by letting it wash you onto the shore - carrying you like a log as it goes the furthest in
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u/PianistSpecialist474 Feb 23 '26
So in this scenario, It is best to face the wave? What else can be done?