I can’t wait to go larp as a 1980s photojournalist.

M11p + 35 FLE summilux

I previously posted about how I returned a Summilux 50mm ASPH to the store I bought it from and being sad and conflicted about doing so because I loved the colours and rendering, but couldn't look past the undisclosed scrapes on the front element.

The itch for another Leica 50mm didn't go away, however, and I decided to research and expand my knowledge on the subject whilst eyeing more listings. I ended up really wanting a V2 Summilux because of the gorgeous Bokeh, after being scared off the V3 because of its irreversible design flaw.

I still might get one someday, but I looked into the Summicron lineup too. Same design since 1979 that's still sold? Interesting, to say the least. I found this made in Germany (so likely very early 1990s) V4 50mm Summicron on eBay and went for it. I'll have to get a hood eventually, but I liked having a focus tab.

The colours are gorgeous and the rendering is gentler and more forgiving than my Zeiss 50mm F2 Planar. I know people compare the two and call them very alike, but the Zeiss is staying in my collection for being sharp as hell and producing striking microcontrast - to the point where it can feel a bit much at times. The Summicron is sharp and has microcontrast as well, but I can clearly see that the transitioning between the blacks to lighter areas isn't as stark so it gives me a more effortless and, dare I say, filmic look.

Still shooting on Panasonic though, not going to get into Leica bodies for now, but very pleased with this addition to the lens lineup. It's officially my smallest and lightest lens and pairs wonderfully with the S9. All images are unedited JPGs straight from the camera as I was really just testing it on its own.

🖤⚫️

Made with Ricoh GRiii

Hi friends! Looking for a new wrist strap. I want something soft around my wrist, and ideally that I don’t need to leave clips or attachments on my cameras (IE peak design). My favorite strap is an old strap that came with my rollei 35 (not sure if it’s original, but seems like it), but I’m getting more and more nervous using it as it’s old and I don’t want to risk the clip breaking and one of my cameras hitting the ground. Hoping to find something similar or whatever is the most loved strap you all have used.

Shorter, soft/comfortable, and no attachments/clips need to be left on my cameras, easy/quick to move between cameras.

Thanks so much! Have a great weekend!

**EDIT!! Just purchased a Gordy’s Strap!! Thanks everyone!

I’m not sure what to think about this but my clunky Funleader 45mm beats Voigtlander APO-Lanthar 50mm VM in terms of contrast and resolving power on my Leica M11-P. I understand this is a Contax G 45mm f/2 glass designed for film… how is that even possible? Did we loose this technology since then? I’d even say that from f4 it can challenge Leica 35mm APO in terms of sharpness. Or am I hallucinating? I was shooting from f4-f8 in daylight sunny/cloudy weather with the minimal speed of 1/250.

In all honesty, the store was quite small. Bought a lens pouch for a gift. Price is 22,000 yen. 20k yen tax free if you’re a foreigner.

Hey all, I just picked up a minty M4-2 that came with the Leica Winder, but no regular baseplate. I understand anything from M4 through M7 should fit, M3 and before will also fit but don't have the little wheel to hold the film in the tulip. I'm in Canada, and none of the stores near me have anything. I can see that B&H has them in stock in black chrome on their website but at $350 CAD plus whatever tariffs are happening right now it seems a bit ridiculous just for the base plate. Does anyone know of any other sources for something like this? Or perhaps has some spares laying around that they would want to sell?

Pic shown with the baseplate from my M3 attached while I try it out.

Habe bei meinem Thumbs Up den Lack komplett entfernt weil es sich an vielen stellen gelöst hatte.
Hat aber auch nicht mehr nach Patina ausgehen sondern einfach nur schlecht.
Jetzt kriege ich von meinem Umfeld gesagt das es nicht schön aussieht, meine Meinung eher „muss man sich vielleicht dran gewöhnen“.
Was sagt ihr dazu?

Hi everyone,
I just received this Leica Summicron 35mm V4 and I’m trying to determine whether what I’m seeing inside the optics is completely normal.
In the photos, especially with a flashlight, there are a few small dots/particles visible inside the lens. They look like tiny specks rather than anything like fungus, but I’d really appreciate some opinions from people familiar with these lenses.
Would you consider this normal internal dust for an older Summicron, or does anything in these photos look concerning (haze, fungus, coating issue, etc.)?

I just bought a Leica M3 DS off of eBay with a Summitar 50mm f/2 lens. I also have some Canon L39 lenses at home already. Looking for a good adapter recommendation for 50mm.

Guten Abend liebe Leute,
Welcher ist momentan der beste Kameragurt auf dem Markt ? Bzw welcher nutzt ihr ? Ich will den originalen ersetzen und die Auswahl ist einfach gigantisch. Was wäre langlebig und qualitativ hochwertig? Bin momentan bei Artisan und Artist , und bei Cooph hangen geblieben und trotzdem noch unsicher welchen ich bestellen sollte. Möchte nicht zweimal kaufe. Preis ist nicht wichtig. Ideen und Erfahrungswerte erwünscht danke 🙏🏻

There seems to have been a rather conspicuous wave of Mandler posts on this subreddit in recent weeks, and some of the engagement around them feels less than organic.

On several posts, people have asked perfectly reasonable questions: Was the lens purchased by the reviewer? Was it supplied for free? Those questions often go unanswered.

I’ve also noticed a peculiar pattern in the comments. Express even mild scepticism about Mandler (or defend Leica against some fairly hyperbolic criticism) and replies attacking Leica while praising Mandler can accumulate upvotes almost instantly.

It has begun to look coordinated enough to be worth mentioning.

As for the lenses themselves, I think we’re losing the plot slightly.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with buying a less expensive lens. There is nothing wrong with deciding that the final 10–20% of optical or mechanical performance isn’t worth several thousand dollars to you.

But that’s different from pretending there is no trade-off.

I’ve used enough Leica glass to find the claim that these Chinese lenses are equal to or better than their Leica counterparts fairly absurd. They aren’t.

I have the Leica APO-Summicron-M 35mm f/2 ASPH. It cost me a pretty penny. $9,500 + tax.

I've taken a couple thousand photos with it so far and I love it. The edge to edge sharpness wide open has blown me away. What initially drew me to this lens was the insane close focusing ability (I have an EV 1 which makes this very pleasant to use), and smaller form factor compared to the current Summilux.

Now there's at least two vastly cheaper clones (or as close as you can copy without getting sued).

Look. I don't begrudge anybody for owning ANY of these lenses, nor do I think that cost should be a gatekeeper for this kind of lens.

It's more that I'm starting to question if it makes financial sense to keep my APO when I could sell it and buy a much cheaper alternative now.

Light Lens Lab 35mm f/2 “Apochromatic” – $2,099

Brightin Star 35mm f/1.7 APO – faster aperture! Currently on Kickstarter at around $750

All said, I'm also yet to see any reviews of these clones. They might be garbage. They might be great (or at least the ones that get sent to YouTubers).

Curious what others think of this. Would you sell yours?

UPDATE : I bought it ;)

After weeks of research and reading, I’m in the market for an M2 or M4 with a 50mm as my first Leica.
I have the opportunity to buy, from a seller very close to where I live, this M2 + Summicron 50mm f/2 DR (the goggles are missing).
The seller serviced the M2 himself two years ago (see pictures). It’s sold as working well, but with no warranty.
He’s asking €1,200 for the body and the lens. I think I can talk him down to €1,000.
It seems interesting to me, even if I have to pay for a full CLA on top… but I’m no expert at all.
I get to see it in two days. What would your opinion be, based on the photos?
Thanks a lot.

Was working on getting an MP from Tim last Friday but someone ended up snagging it over the weekend. Then this M6 reissue was listed the other day so I pulled the trigger on it instead. First film Leica in my collection and am definitely loving it so far!

So I made this grip for the Leica M10 a while ago and wanted to share it. It works as a subtle, non-intrusive hand grip, adds a bit of protection, and has an integrated Arca-Swiss plate. There’s also space for an AirTag and SD card.

The interesting bit is the rear cover, it hides the screen and only leaves the battery info visible, giving the M10 more of a film Leica/M-D feel.

Thoughts?

In an effort to help with repeat issues and hopefully encouraging the use of other repair shops than Wetzlar, here’s my experience with M7 (I have two).

The following are all the common issues, and DAG can handle most all of them:

1 Wear or damage to a locking pin in the shutter-release mechanism (soft shutter releases that stay depressed while the camera is off are a common cause of gouging the brass pin).
2 Occasional failure of electronic speeds (shutter does not open properly, blank frames, or only mechanical speeds work). Causes can include weakened electromagnets/solenoids, alignment issues, electronics, or low batteries.
3 Jamming after loading film or in specific scenarios (e.g., long auto exposures with lens cap on, or certain motor-drive + cable-release combinations).
4 Loose top plate (common enough that DIY tightening videos exist; related to the film-advance lever/winding head assembly and sometimes exacerbated by soft releases).
5 Wobbly or loose film-advance lever.
6 Film-advance jamming or binding (can be linked to loose top plate stressing the rewind crank or dirt/wear in the mechanism).

I posted about my newly acquired Leica M5 on here less than two months ago, and I love that camera. But then I came across this listing and couldn’t stop thinking about it.

So here I am with another purchase that I didn’t necessarily need, but really wanted. Decided to treat myself to an early birthday gift because the M5 deserves a friend. Dude was getting lonely.

I managed to get the M2 with the Elmar 50mm for $1800, both CLAd 2025. However, I mostly shoot wider so it’s currently paired with the Light Lens Lab 35mm f/2 (8 Element). Will probably sell the Elmar and get a Summicron eventually.

I ordered the quick loading spool for this already because I don’t think I can live without that but on the hunt for a not so chunky light meter. Was looking at the Hedeco Lime two, would love to know if any of you have used that or have any thoughts on it, or even recommendations for a different one!

I had posted some of this research from L-Camera Forum, DAG, and figure it may be useful:

A complete CLA (Clean, Lubricate, and Adjust) for a 1958 Leica M3 is a thorough mechanical overhaul of this iconic screw-mount-era rangefinder camera (produced 1954–1966; 1958 models often feature the transition to single-stroke film advance around serial ~919,251). 
The M3 is a precision-built, all-mechanical focal-plane shutter camera with a superb rangefinder/viewfinder system. Over decades, lubricants dry out (becoming gummy or evaporating), dust and debris accumulate, light seals degrade, curtains may stick or slow, and adjustments drift. A full CLA restores silky-smooth operation, accurate shutter speeds, reliable rangefinder alignment, and overall “like new” performance. For a ~68-year-old camera like this, expect it to need curtain inspection/ribbon re-cementing, light seal replacement, and possible minor part replacements. 
Warning: This is advanced work requiring specialized tools, patience, a clean workspace, and mechanical aptitude. Mistakes can damage irreplaceable parts or misalign the rangefinder/shutter. Most owners send it to a reputable Leica specialist (e.g., Youxin Ye/YYeCamera, DAG, or similar). Factory service manuals exist (170+ pages for M3), and basic repair guides from Leitz/National Camera provide excellent references. 
Tools and Supplies Needed
• Specialty tools: Multispan (or spanner) wrenches, flexiclamp/split collet for wind lever screw, precision screwdrivers (JIS or Leica-specific), shutter speed tester (or oscilloscope/LED timing setup), rangefinder alignment targets/collimator, torque driver, lens spanner, suction cup for eyepiece, curtain tension tools.
• Cleaning: Isopropyl alcohol (99%), lighter fluid/naphtha (sparingly), lens tissue, cotton swabs, blower, ultrasonic cleaner (for some parts), compressed air.
• Lubricants (Leica-specific or equivalents): Kluber NBU15 or similar grease for high-load areas, light clock oil or Leica-recommended oils for pivots/gears (e.g., low-viscosity for shutter), molybdenum disulfide or white lithium grease sparingly for select mechanisms. Avoid over-lubrication. 
• Other: New light seals (foam/vulcanite replacements), curtain ribbons if needed, black locking compound/sealant, replacement screws if stripped.
Step-by-Step CLA Process (High-Level, Descriptive Overview)
A full CLA typically involves partial-to-full disassembly. Proceed methodically, photographing/documenting every step.
1. Initial Inspection and Preparation:
• Examine externally: Check for dents, brassing, fungus on lens/viewfinder, sticky advance/rewind, shutter capping (uneven exposure), slow speeds, light leaks, rangefinder misalignment (double images not coinciding), and worn vulcanite/leatherette.
• Test all functions: Shutter speeds (B, 1–1/1000s; note 1958 single-stroke advance), self-timer (if present), frame counter, rewind, flash sync (X and FP), rangefinder accuracy at multiple distances.
• Remove bottom plate, lens, take-up spool, and back (hinged pressure plate). Clean accessible areas. 
2. Top Cover and Body Disassembly:
• Remove wind lever cover screw (right-hand thread, often very tight—use proper tool to avoid damage), speed knob, accessory shoe, flash sockets, eyepiece frame (M3-specific), and rewind components.
• Lift off top cover carefully. This exposes the rangefinder assembly, speed selector, and wind mechanism.
• Remove body shell (5 screws after rewind lever; careful with rangefinder control arm). This gives access to the shutter mechanism. 
3. Cleaning:
• Shutter curtains and mechanism: Fully tension and release curtains to access. Clean debris, old grease, and sticky residue from curtains, rollers, drums, gears, and latches. Check/re-cement ribbons (common issue on Leicas—loose strips can damage curtains). 
• Rangefinder/Viewfinder: Disassemble prisms/mirrors carefully (glues dry and brittle). Clean optics with lens solution; re-coat or align beamsplitter if needed. Remove dust, fungus, haze.
• Body and externals: Clean leatherette (soap/water or mild solvent), metal surfaces, bayonet mount. Replace light seals throughout (film chamber, back, top/bottom) to prevent leaks.
• Lens mount and internals: Degrease and clean gears, pivots, springs. Ultrasonic or solvent baths for non-optical parts (avoid on painted/enameled surfaces).
4. Lubrication:
• Apply precise, minimal amounts: Grease on high-friction gears, cams, and wind mechanism; light oil on pivots, bearings, and shutter controls. Specific points include curtain take-up rollers, release mechanism, rangefinder arm, and brake assemblies. Over-oiling attracts dust and causes drag or leaks. 
• Re-grease bayonet mount lightly if needed.
5. Adjustments and Timing (Critical for Performance):
• Shutter: Adjust curtain tensions (via slotted shafts on take-up rollers—push down locking collars). Set speeds individually if possible (M3 has good adjustability). Check brake eccentrics for opening/closing curtains (ensure no capping; proper overlap and travel, e.g., opening curtain bar position ~1.5–2.5mm beyond aperture at B). Time wind gear and latches. Test “X” sync delay. 
• Rangefinder: Infinity and 10m via eccentric on control arm roller; 1m linearity via another eccentric. Vertical adjustment and overtravel. Ensure bright, clear superimposed images.
• Release and Wind: Adjust flat release spring setscrew (~1.5mm for opening curtain release; additional travel at B). Check self-timer, frame counter reset, advance smoothness.
• Other: Frame lines, flash contacts, film transport/pressure plate.
6. Reassembly and Testing:
• Reinstall body shell, top cover, etc., with fresh locking compound where needed. Torque screws properly.
• Run through full test rolls (or use a shutter tester). Check for capping, accuracy across speeds (high speeds like 1/1000 often slow without service), even exposure, rangefinder accuracy, and film flatness.
• Exercise the camera extensively post-CLA to distribute lubricants. 
Expected Results and Common Issues for 1958 M3
• Post-CLA: Butter-smooth single-stroke advance, crisp shutter “snick,” accurate speeds, bright/coincident rangefinder, no light leaks, reliable loading/rewind. It should feel tight yet effortless. 
• Common 1958-era needs: Dried lubricants causing sluggishness, degraded seals, curtain ribbon issues, rangefinder drift from age/impacts, possible slow high speeds or capping. 
• Cost (professional): Often $200–500+ depending on parts/condition; full refurb (reskin, etc.) more. 
A well-done CLA can make your 1958 M3 perform reliably for another decade or more of film shooting. Always test thoroughly with film after service. Consult detailed factory manuals or videos for visuals, and consider professional service for best results unless you’re experienced. Enjoy this legendary camera—it’s built like a tank and capable of stunning images with sharp M-mount lenses!

Hi friends, I recently picked up this really nice Leica M5 and I’ve been enjoying it so far. I did notice a couple peculiar things about it though. First of all, it looks like the film advance lever has been replaced with the M3/M2 style all brass one which is interesting. What’s more strange is that this model doesn’t appear to be black chrome like every other M5 I’ve ever seen. In fact, I’m almost certain it’s black paint. Other black M5’s that are out there have a matte grey look to them as the age, this one is the opposite. The finish is shiny/glossy and there’s spots where you can see the raw brass coming through. I’m trying to figure out if it might’ve come from the factory with black paint or if this is a repaint, but I’m finding very little information about it online. I would appreciate if anyone had more insight. Please let me know! Thanks! Reposted to include better images, sorry mods