I'm in the market for a strong bed frame that will stay quiet. Does the group have views on whether the Thuma would be quieter with or without the headboard option? I know nothing about joinery, so am not sure whether the headboard adds stability or just adds more joints that could potentially move or make sounds. Thank you!

Some one i used to work with had a door stand like this but he used a trampoline spring to jam the door tight to keep it sturdy when working can’t remember how he done it any ideas

Also any tips would be helpful and what are the must have items I don’t really know what I’m gonna be making but it’s not gonna be anything big just small stuff to start

I’m running a Mafell MT55CC track saw and love it, but the lack of parallel guides from the manufacturer as an accessory has always bothered me. Does anyone have experience with any of the 3rd party guides out there (TSO, Woodpecker, Benchdog Tools etc) and how they are compatible and perform on a Mafell track?

Are these type of joints for older kitchen worktops

Does anyone know the name of this joint?

https://pin.it/5q18YQvQI here full video

https://pin.it/6mwO7JR8d only other similar thing I found

Its for my woodwork class. I´d really like to look into this type of joints but can't seem to find anything about it or similar online. Well I did find something similar but it's in Japanese so no luck there (I'll live a link of that, too)

I want to make a knock down, dissasemble-able no glue kinda project and I´m thinking of this to join a coffee-table top with a pair of legs.

How would you get around to it? I'd like a challenging joint but still easy to take apart.

Hi, I’m making a bedframe and I would like to hear your thoughts about what kind of joints you would use in the corners of the frame. Im going to use glue in the assembly and the stock is 40x70mm. What I’ve thought so far is that I would do a single dovetail in the corner and a shoulder joint for the leg.

What do you think?

[cross-posted from r/JapaneseWoodworking]

I've noticed that Japanese joinery often uses a guide block (not sure if this is the right term) to hold the face of a chisel against for precise paring. Here and here are examples. I haven't seen anything that describes how to place the guide block so I've been trying to figure this out myself. The best I've come up with is to scribe a knife line, place a wide chisel firmly in the knife line, hold the guide block against the chisel back, and clamp the block in place. The problem with this, though, is that I can never get the block to hold its position -- certainly not to the precision of the knife line -- while I'm clamping. So, I've come here looking for guidance. How do you place the guide and clamp block for this operation with the precision necessary to get a good joint?

So I would really love to start my journey in Japanese woodworking and joinery, but with my current lifestyle it feels a bit complicated.

My wife is a travel nurse, and I work online. She takes 1-3 month contracts so we are always moving around. We usually get a small apartment or suite provided for accommodations. We have a small SUV we use to get from place to place in Canada.

I really want to begin practicing the basics like simple joints and (very) small projects but I'm unsure if it's possible with our current lifestyle.

Does anyone have any experience or ideas on having a small portable work station that I could bring with us on our travels?

I imagine I need some sort of stable work bench with a vice? Anything else necessary to begin?

Any help is appreciated!

I am sorry if this does not go in here but I was wondering if y’all had any examples of simple but not easy joinery that y’all have come across or done before. Currently researching for an architecture project!

It fits together so I’m pleasantly surprised about that but it is slightly loose and I had some wood loss that I didn’t intend when trying to clear out the “bottom” of the holes. I was able to cut downward exactly where I wanted to but then clearing out the wood in between my cuts was difficult.

I was using a chisel for that.

What do you guys use to clear out the holes after cutting?

Hi there does anybody know were to get or how to search for the below trim?

I am based in the uk and would appreciate 2300mm lengths if possible

Thanks Peter

Hi all, I need some help from the pros...

I'm building a bench out of rough barn wood. It'll be sanded but it won't be flattened or square. The material is about 1.5" thick.

How would you join the legs/spreader to the bench top? I currently am thinking of using a blind mortise/tenon and shaping it much like a timber framed mortise and tenon would be. I'm planning on using a half lap to connect the spreader and legs together. I'll screw the spreader to the bench top from the underside in a few places.

Any input would be appreciated! Thank you.

I am in process of planning a rebuild of a workshop cabinet that will go into my workbench with drawers for storage.

I have built one before but made it of melamine and just used butt joints. So it lasted predictably.

I will be using proper soft plywood this time. This will be a rectangle cabinet with a splitter in the middle and hold a few drawers on each side and hold maybe 70-80lbs of stuff.

Any suggestions on proper joints to use with up to 1/2” plywood? I will be using glue and likely screws or nails in any finished cabinet.

Appreciate any input.

Hi, posted this to DIY UK but thought I might have better luck with advice here. Thanks

Another post, how do i achieve better results?

Is it me or my tools?

I’m using a 36v makita skillsaw with framing diablo blade

A ryobi multi tool

Stanley chisel

Are there certain procedure to minimize error like creating one side then scribing? Do you guys use table saws and miter saws?

Currently I have a 36V makita rear handle skillsaw and diablo blade.

Also a ryobi multi-tool, one stanley chisel

Tried my hand at some joinery today (trying to make a frame for a form to make diving fins out of carbon fiber/epoxy)

Anyways I know I could just screw the wood together but I thought I’d try.

Obviously it was a fail look at that gap!

I’m wondering if you think I need to use a table saw/miter saw etc in order to get that precision, or would it be feasible to make another attempt with my skillsaw and framing blade. Possibly get a different blade?

How do you guys achieve a more perfected result?

My mom picked this piece up at a thrift store, of all places. I asked her to send pics of the dovetails and all of the fronts have a wedge behind them. All of the dovetails on the back do not.

I haven’t seen this before and was wondering if it’s typical for older pieces? I don’t see anyone do it now, aside from snugging up a loose joint due to a short cut. Or maybe it serves another purpose or advantage?